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chem_man

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  1. The first thing I would do is to clean all the ground connections including the battery cable to battery terminal connections. That many DTCs points to something common - like the ignition switch (which you already changed) or battery. You also want to get your battery load tested to make sure it does not have a bad cell, and then make sure it is completely charged before trying to start it again. While you have the battery out, check the battery cables to make sure that they are not corroded internally by looking for green stuff near the cable ends. While you are at it, have your alternator tested to make sure it is not faulty in terms of a bad diode or that it is putting out more than 20 mV AC ripple on the DC voltage.
  2. I agree on the getting the TYC from rockauto.com. The only thing I'll add is that I purchased the CAPA certified TYC headlight assemblies.
  3. Have you tested the fuel pressure? You might be getting fuel but are you getting enough and is there sufficient pressure to go through the injectors.
  4. Visit a real auto electrical shop and have them look at the output of the alternator with an oscilloscope. That will reveal a lot about the condition of the alternator.
  5. Slip the diode into some heat shrink tubing before soldering it in place.
  6. I googled the part number and found out the diode's specifications are 400 VDC and 3 amps. Therefore it is a 1N5404 silicone diode that can be purchased for about $0.25 at the right place. Since Radio Shack is no longer in business, you could check with Affiliated Electronics there in Tulsa. Ask them if they have either the 1N5404 diode, or the NTE5804 diode. You can also go to https://www.ntepartsdirect.com/ and order it directly from them (I don't think they have an order minimum). You can also call around to TV repair shops if there are still any open in Tulsa.
  7. Go to this website https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/ and choose your options and you will see all the different mirrors for your truck.
  8. FriendlyMan, thanks for the information. I had problems getting the EVAP system to pass the tests as well. Drove with less than half a tank of gas; drove early in the morning, late at night, etc. Finally began looking at the intake air temperature (IAT) and engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensors, and noticed that there was what I considered to be too wide of a difference between the temperatures reported by the two sensors. I would up changing the ECT sensor and bingo! Cold engine temps were much closer and finally, all the emission systems readiness tests passed. Drove to the emissions testing station and finally got a passing test!
  9. First thanks to txab for the link to a great writeup! Now to longanbryant, the P0449 code is telling you there is a problem with the EVAP vent valve. When you replaced the vent valve, did you install the air filter for it in the area on top of the transmission? Attached are a co ies of 2 TSB describing what I am referring to. While one of them is for a P0446 code, it is applicable to a P0449 code especially if the EVAP vent valve gets full of dirt/water. Evap TSB.pdf Evap TSB1.pdf
  10. This is a very common problem and GM released a TSB on it. TSB 04-06-04-055A Dated 03/20/2006. Here is a link to the TSB: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/travist80/2009-04-08_014020_Vent+Valve.pdf In short, the air filter for the EVAP vent valve is upgraded and the air filter for it is moved to a place near the top of the transmission. I replaced mine in 2015 using the Standard Motor Parts kit, part number CP454, and have not had any trouble since. It was about haf the cost of the GM/ACDelco kit.
  11. Have you checked your ignition coil? Perhaps under that load, it might be giving out.
  12. I do not believe GM produced any flex fuel Silverados in 2001. Double check the VIN to verify the model year.
  13. Based on a personal experience, check your fuel pressure regulator for a ruptured diaphragm.
  14. Definitely check your fuel pressure and that your fuel pressure regulator is working properly.
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