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Amcguy1970

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  1. They do a lot of winter testing with these trucks and tires, if they were that bad they wouldn't have put them on; though they do compromise and try to find that balance between snow performance, ride, desert heat longevity and so on. Are there better choices, sure, but bad enough to pull off right away, nope. That is just people looking for an excuse to upgrade. You see it all the time with tires and suspension. Someone says they are horrible and run off to replace them with something they are used to or like better, doesn't mean they are bad, just they are lying to themselves to upgrade. You will live and be fine, but only you know the situations you are in. If the streets are plowed and treated and you live in the city with a few bigger snow falls a year, you will be fine. If you live where you get 100+ inches and its snow packed from November to April, then get snow tires and this shouldn't even be an discussion. Tyler
  2. They did do their research which is why they switched. You aren't hitting the control arms in most situations, it is a non-factor for most people. It has to be a specific position where it gets hung up. But as someone else pointed out instead of dragging one pumpkin through a rut you drag two control arms. Please do switch brands, the grass isn't always greener. The Toyota has been knocked heavily in most testing on the switch back to SRA and it shows in many circumstances. This truck will go further easier than the Subaru, Hyundai, etc. and I promise an AT4 or Z71 will hang with a TRD Sequoia off road and out perform the Armada. Be realistic with your uses, it sounds like you have an image problem with something you won't even use. 99.9% of owners of these trucks won't put them in a position that the rear IRS control arm gets them stuck or hung up, and it can pull it just fine through muddy ruts, they don't cause that much drag... Some posts: "Note that Land Rover has a very similar independent rear suspension design on their rigs. I owned a 2007 LR3 with this setup after having owned a 2004 Discovery 2 with the solid rear axle setup. The rear suspension arms hung low like those on the new Yukons, and everyone in the Land Rover world was worried about them, but their fears were proven to be for naught. The LR3 was a far superior off-road truck to the Discovery 2 in every way. Mine was bone stock and it made it through the infamous "Metal Masher" in Moab with no issues. I don't think the IRS in these new trucks will cause any trouble at all off-road." From Expedition Portal: "Okay, so GMC was very hush hush on official numbers with this truck. They wouldn’t provide ground clearance, breakover angle, or departure angle, so of course, we crawled under the SUV in the snow to do some research. For ground clearance, we measured three distances on the truck. The bottom of the skid plates rested roughly 13″ from the ground, while the low point in the rear was 11″ from the ground. The lowest point we could find, roughly as we said, was the rear sway bar at 10″ from the ground. Assuming 10″ was accurate, that would be pretty impressive for a stock SUV." This is being made a mountain out of a mole hill. Tyler
  3. Is that list in order? Amsoil is the podium for me (1-3) then AC and K&N. Fram is walmart brand cardboard filters! Huh? They are at least coffee filters, not sure what you are trying to get at or say. Tyler
  4. Measure your truck, then add 2.5" to the front number and 2" to the rear number and you will have your answer. It will have rake as most are in the 2" of rake ball park which you want some. If you level they look nose high, it is harder to adjust down the headlights enough to not blind traffic and if you use your truck for any type of truck work (hauling or towing) it will sag and not be sitting proper. Tyler
  5. Never got that noise with Pennzoil or Mobil, might be the problem right there... Tyler
  6. Driving around without a rear plate, that's brave. We've been pulled over before with temp tags, can only imagine no tags... Tyler
  7. Could do a little math and get very close to what you would see. The standard TB is 78.35" tall or 6'5" on a 32 inch tire. Going to "35's" you gain 1.5" of height right there at 6'6.5". From there even if you did an entire say 2 inch level front and back that would lift it all 2" you would still be at 6'8.5" so over 3" to spare. Should be just fine... On a second note are you getting the LT with LED headlights this time or getting the custom with the reflector housings and doing what looks like LED's or HID's in your stock housings again? Going the latter route just blinds everyone. Tyler
  8. I am sure someone will come up with a fill plug to fill that space. Shoot, they did with the grab handles on the bed rails and little storage cubbies in consoles on things like Etsy and Amazon. That floor shifter is one of the silliest things in a truck. I hope with the redesign they go another route, preferably a shifter stalk off the column (like Mercedes or Tesla) or at least the buttons or dial or something; anything to get that space back and more useable. Would be nice to make the console floating somewhat so stuff can be put under it up front. So much room for opportunities, they are leaving a lot on the table. Ford has that stupid folding shifter, we saw it on a commercial the other day and the wife thought that was silly, something that will break in the future when over complicating something that really doesn't need to be. The sliding console on our 2021 Denali already has issues, I can only image what that shifter will do in the coming years. Really most vehicles (especially the smaller ones) should get the floor shifter out of there for added storage and space. Was very disappointed they stayed with the floor shifter on the Colorado/Canyon, the current gen it was such a hinderance to the storage space and legroom. I am up in the air on the next truck to keep the folding jump seat like I currently have (sure like the leg room being 6'5) and it has come in handy a handful of times. If they keep the console shifter in the next gen it may sway me in to the jump seat LT which is fine as I don't want leather. Still got time as my '14 will hit 100k next week. Tyler
  9. Take the front lift down from 2.5", that is really pushing it and will make it tow worse. For sure add the block as you want rake for as much as you tow. I would stay under 2" in the front along with a rear block to keep it towing well. As far as shocks controlling when weighed down, that is a tall order. Most anything that will control heavier towing will ride worse day to day and be so off road on FSR roads. GM (and all manufacturers) do a ton of testing to try and get a good middle of the road compromise on everything from daily driving to towing and off roading as well as handling, you start swinging the needle one way other areas will get worse. I have to experience with Eibachs but has heard good things and will look at them, but currently I have Bilstein and am pretty happy with them. Check out more tow specific forums for some insight on what shocks they use and how much they really help. I bet more will say to use some type of helper set up like air bags, helper springs or some type of jounce bumper I think they are. I do know adjusting the weight distributing hitch properly helps or if you aren't using one then get one. LT tires also help in this, especially when aired up properly (which if you have standard load tires make sure they are aired up properly too). You could try some shocks that have adjustable tuning like the Rancho RS 9000, you can tune them for ride to towing and off roading. I know Ranchos have a stigma around here (though they shoudn't) but these are a much higher end shock that are reviewed well on towing forums. Either way good luck. Tyler
  10. That's a mile above sea level, for comparisons the 5.3 at that altitude takes over 9 seconds and the 6.2 over 7 seconds... Do You Really Need The BIG V8? 2020 Chevy Silverado 5.3 vs 6.2 0-60 MPH Shootout! (Video) - The Fast Lane Truck (tfltruck.com) I am not even sure how to respond to that, but no it doesn't. That isn't at all how it works and I don't have enough crayons to explain how things can be built to last with certain components and heat isn't indictive of just the number of cylinders and how it correlates to longevity. Smoked trannies? Camshaft issues? Please just stop talking; and your old way of thinking 8 is great no longer applies... Tyler
  11. Doesn't it say in the manual? Kudos for not throwing in some LED/HID's and blinding everyone. I just put in some Philips in my 2014 with the reflector housings and it is a nice upgrade. Unfortunately brighter halogens do last shorter but they out perform the LED crowd as they can't get the right patter or focus since the bulb was not at all designed for the housing. There are some good tests out there that show how much brighter a proper upgraded halogen is in a reflector housing than an LED and the coverage is better as well. BTW, nice choice in the regular cab and that blue, fantastic combo. Tyler
  12. Or you could just put on tires a half inch smaller (no visual difference) that actually fit and not have to hack up the truck and spend time trouble shooting. Granted you won't be able to say in a conversation (I have 35's) but you can always round up, seems much easier to me... Tyler
  13. SAE J2807 Tow Tests - The Standard (motortrend.com) It will stop it just fine, they test for that. That being said that is at or above the limit, I would go with a larger truck depending on the usage. Running two hours away to drop it off for a season or every few weeks an hour or two trip, yeah, stick with the half ton and go easy on the gear until you get there. Cross country towing regularly, look for smaller trailer or larger truck. Tyler
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