I found mine online too. I was able to convince the dealer to match GM Parts Direct but I dont remember how much I paid for it at the time. The dealer will always have a large up-charge.
While I believe your lifters went bad a got replaced, the noise we hear in the video the OP posted is not the lifters. Idk what the noise is exactly but my truck has done it since new and continues to do it till this day 11/16 w/2 miles - current time with 137k. but this thread is soooooooo old!
I saw that on their website, I didn’t do that much shopping around for them. But that’s because I figured the new factory UCA’s would give me another 100k but the updated arms seem to have an even worse ball joint angle than my factory aluminum UCA’s. I’m gonna see how long these last and then go with ones that adjust the ball joint angle to better suit a leveled truck.
It is probably your door lock actuator. My passenger door did that and once I replaced it, it was as good as new. And to boot, when I close the door now it more solid! here is a link how to fix it.
Dang! No one has experience with the rough country UCA's!?!? hmmm
Awesome post! I also love to know what y'all techs see on a daily basis and some background info like you did on this one. I personally made sure to get my trans flushed at the dealer at the recommended mileage, like 97,500 or something like that. I plan on doing it again at 150k. One question though, what is TECHM? is that another term / acronym for the valve body or computer in the trans?
I just replaced my factory aluminum control arms with GM's updated cast steel LCA's and UCA's. And the new UCA's are a little different and my upper ball joint seems to be at more of an angle and some grease is already out of the boot. I went with GM because I have 136k on my stock arms and have had my truck leveled since about 8k miles so I figured I'd stay with quality GM parts... mistake I made. So my question is should I man up and save some more money for the cognito control arms to correct the ball joint angle or buy the rough country ones (or other brands I'm not dead set on Rough Country). I noticed the benefit to cognito is the ball joint is bolt in which is awesome where as rough country is either non-serviceable or is pressed in. Not that big of a deal if it's pressed in but definitely more of a hassle when the ball joint inevitably goes out. Rough County is about $250 for both control arms Cognito is about $800 for both control arms... kind of a big price difference. I am about quality but that is just such a big difference! Opinions?
Ok, so I’m in the middle of trying to figure out which part numbers I need to replace my aluminum control arms. I went to the dealer and they said the aluminum control arms were discontinued and they asked for my vin. Well when they put my vin in their computer, two different part numbers popped up for different control arms. They told me that I needed part numbers 25812725 and 25812726 for the uppers and 84114506 and 84114505 for the lowers. And then they said when I put these in I will need different sway bar end links for these new control arms and gave me part number 25918049. so I ordered all these parts through gmpartsdirect.com. Well I just got an email from them basically saying that they entered my vin and two parts numbers pop up and GM doesn’t specify which ones I need and how I would like to proceed. any techs in here that can answer this question or anyone done this before? I just want the right parts. Both part numbers that GM has for my truck today are not aluminum. And they don’t clearly specify to which one is the replacement of the aluminum control arms. btw I ordered online because the control arms were $145 a piece and the dealer originally wanted $275 and would only go down to $233 per arm give or take a few.
Like someone said earlier, if you are doing a level kit then you do not re-use that metal clip. However, I don't know where you are located at, but I still have my clips from when I leveled my truck years ago. If you are in the Houston area by chance I would be willing to let you have one if you could replace it when you get a chance. PM me or quote me so I get a notification in case I'm not on here anymore.
That is good info and makes me wonder if I should tune my truck at get the 180* thermostat. I don't plan on towing this trailer all that much but when I do, I would like to feel little more confident that I am not going to bake my drivetrain.
Ok, let me preface this by saying that I have towed in the past with this truck plenty of times, mostly just my atv (light) and my 02 Camaro (about 6k w/trailer) and it pulls those just fine. I am not new to towing trailers, just travel trailers. Also I am going to try and put a picture in here but since photobucket is all jacked up now I don't know if I will be able to. Just in case, the day this picture was taken was the day I picked up the trailer so the WD hitch is not set up properly so my truck is squatting a little too much and the trailer is not completely level. I plan on taking the time to set it up properly and also get air bags. When I bought the trailer the 7-way plug was messed up and was wired so poorly that the brakes were not working due to terrible wiring methods. So I rewired it and took it on a test drive the other night to make sure all lights and brakes work as they are supposed to. I live in Houston and it was night time about 85* with probably 100% humidity with a good amount of side wind, maybe 15 mph or so. I was driving on a flat freeway (like not one hill or overpass for MILES) doing about 60 - 65 mph at about 2800 rpm's in 4th gear and my trans temp was steady around 194 - 198 so I was good there. However, I noticed that my coolant temp was just a hair past the 210 mark which I thought was odd. The truck still had plenty of power and I could have easily gained speed if I wanted to. I figured maybe it is because it was locked in 4th and, relatively speaking, running at high RPM's for about 30 minutes or so. So I let off the throttle a hair so it shifted into 5th gear and tried to keep it in 5th but the temp either didn't move or lowered just a hair to where it was on the verge of being past the 210 mark (I'm talking a very small difference here). While doing this the truck did not want to stay in 5th gear and really wanted to be in 4th at that speed. My question is, should I expect this every time I pull this trailer? The trailer is a 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27bh and the manufacturer says it weights about 5k dry but my weigh safe hitch put the tongue weight of the trailer around 600 - 650, so It probably is weight closer to 6k lbs right now (I plan on hitting the scales soon). I just feel like this really is not that much weight for the trucks towing ratings which is just over 9k. So I feel like the truck should be able to pull it easily without the coolant temps rising ESPECIALLY at night. I plan on pulling it through the Texas hill country which I do expect the temps to rise a little on steep grade. Anyone have some personal experience they could chime in with? Is that temp normal? Is that speed vs gearing normal? My truck is a CCSB 5.3 z71 4x4 w/ 3.42's with 122k miles. All the maintenance has been done myself except I had the dealer to the trans flush. I use mobil 1 every 7k miles, new filters when they get dirty and the maintenance mentioned below. My theory is my coolant mixture is not exactly 50/50. I did some preventative maintenance about 2 months ago, I changed all three belts, water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat and new coolant (water pump is AC Delco and so is the thermostat, belts and hoses are gates for what it's worth). I premixed the coolant myself by "eye balling" the 50/50 mixture. So maybe I have 60 coolant and 40 water (who knows) which would make it harder to cool the vehicle because the coolant does not dissipate heat like water. So I do plan on draining the coolant and buying the premixed 50/50 to be100% sure it is mixed correctly. As soon as I stopped the coolant temp lowered to normal about 200 - 210. So I know my cooling system is working properly.
Depending on the size cam and tune, a little more loose torque converter will help with the drive-ability of the truck if you put a decent size cam in it. However, this is not a "necessity" but would help. Just like headers are not necessary but will compliment the cam and especially the procharger.
Well just to give you a reference point, here in Houston, TX I paid $45,xxx out the door on my 2014 SLT that doesn't have some expensive options like nav, lane departure and a sunroof (not that I want the last two). So I would say that is a hell of a deal for a Denali Ultimate!
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