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thewhitestallion

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thewhitestallion last won the day on April 13 2015

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About thewhitestallion

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    Senior Enthusiast

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  • Drives
    2014 Sierra SLT z71 4x4

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  1. I found mine online too. I was able to convince the dealer to match GM Parts Direct but I dont remember how much I paid for it at the time. The dealer will always have a large up-charge.
  2. While I believe your lifters went bad a got replaced, the noise we hear in the video the OP posted is not the lifters. Idk what the noise is exactly but my truck has done it since new and continues to do it till this day 11/16 w/2 miles - current time with 137k. but this thread is soooooooo old!
  3. I saw that on their website, I didn’t do that much shopping around for them. But that’s because I figured the new factory UCA’s would give me another 100k but the updated arms seem to have an even worse ball joint angle than my factory aluminum UCA’s. I’m gonna see how long these last and then go with ones that adjust the ball joint angle to better suit a leveled truck.
  4. It is probably your door lock actuator. My passenger door did that and once I replaced it, it was as good as new. And to boot, when I close the door now it more solid! here is a link how to fix it.
  5. I replaced mine myself, it wasn't that bad. here is a link that will walk you through it step by step.
  6. Awesome post! I also love to know what y'all techs see on a daily basis and some background info like you did on this one. I personally made sure to get my trans flushed at the dealer at the recommended mileage, like 97,500 or something like that. I plan on doing it again at 150k. One question though, what is TECHM? is that another term / acronym for the valve body or computer in the trans?
  7. I just replaced my factory aluminum control arms with GM's updated cast steel LCA's and UCA's. And the new UCA's are a little different and my upper ball joint seems to be at more of an angle and some grease is already out of the boot. I went with GM because I have 136k on my stock arms and have had my truck leveled since about 8k miles so I figured I'd stay with quality GM parts... mistake I made. So my question is should I man up and save some more money for the cognito control arms to correct the ball joint angle or buy the rough country ones (or other brands I'm not dead set o
  8. Ok, so I’m in the middle of trying to figure out which part numbers I need to replace my aluminum control arms. I went to the dealer and they said the aluminum control arms were discontinued and they asked for my vin. Well when they put my vin in their computer, two different part numbers popped up for different control arms. They told me that I needed part numbers 25812725 and 25812726 for the uppers and 84114506 and 84114505 for the lowers. And then they said when I put these in I will need different sway bar end links for these new control arms and gave me part number 25918049.
  9. Like someone said earlier, if you are doing a level kit then you do not re-use that metal clip. However, I don't know where you are located at, but I still have my clips from when I leveled my truck years ago. If you are in the Houston area by chance I would be willing to let you have one if you could replace it when you get a chance. PM me or quote me so I get a notification in case I'm not on here anymore.
  10. That is good info and makes me wonder if I should tune my truck at get the 180* thermostat. I don't plan on towing this trailer all that much but when I do, I would like to feel little more confident that I am not going to bake my drivetrain.
  11. Here is a picture of my gauges as I am driving. Sorry that it is kinda blurry as well, I was driving.
  12. Ok, let me preface this by saying that I have towed in the past with this truck plenty of times, mostly just my atv (light) and my 02 Camaro (about 6k w/trailer) and it pulls those just fine. I am not new to towing trailers, just travel trailers. Also I am going to try and put a picture in here but since photobucket is all jacked up now I don't know if I will be able to. Just in case, the day this picture was taken was the day I picked up the trailer so the WD hitch is not set up properly so my truck is squatting a little too much and the trailer is not completely level. I plan on taking the t
  13. Depending on the size cam and tune, a little more loose torque converter will help with the drive-ability of the truck if you put a decent size cam in it. However, this is not a "necessity" but would help. Just like headers are not necessary but will compliment the cam and especially the procharger.
  14. Well just to give you a reference point, here in Houston, TX I paid $45,xxx out the door on my 2014 SLT that doesn't have some expensive options like nav, lane departure and a sunroof (not that I want the last two). So I would say that is a hell of a deal for a Denali Ultimate!
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