thewhitestallion

While I believe your lifters went bad a got replaced, the noise we hear in the video the OP posted is not the lifters. Idk what the noise is exactly but my truck has done it since new and continues to do it till this day 11/16 w/2 miles - current time with 137k. but this thread is soooooooo old!

I saw that on their website, I didn’t do that much shopping around for them. But that’s because I figured the new factory UCA’s would give me another 100k but the updated arms seem to have an even worse ball joint angle than my factory aluminum UCA’s. I’m gonna see how long these last and then go with ones that adjust the ball joint angle to better suit a leveled truck.

Dang! No one has experience with the rough country UCA's!?!? hmmm

I just replaced my factory aluminum control arms with GM's updated cast steel LCA's and UCA's. And the new UCA's are a little different and my upper ball joint seems to be at more of an angle and some grease is already out of the boot. I went with GM because I have 136k on my stock arms and have had my truck leveled since about 8k miles so I figured I'd stay with quality GM parts... mistake I made. So my question is should I man up and save some more money for the cognito control arms to correct the ball joint angle or buy the rough country ones (or other brands I'm not dead set on Rough Country). I noticed the benefit to cognito is the ball joint is bolt in which is awesome where as rough country is either non-serviceable or is pressed in. Not that big of a deal if it's pressed in but definitely more of a hassle when the ball joint inevitably goes out. Rough County is about $250 for both control arms Cognito is about $800 for both control arms... kind of a big price difference. I am about quality but that is just such a big difference! Opinions?

Nice! I was wanting to get that exact set up soon. If you don't mind sharing, how much did you pay for it? From where I found it online the cheapest I found was if I remember correctly was like $700 - $800. Also it does not come in a kit with both the bags and pump you have to buy separately.

Yup, as they said. Just run a tap from the power wire from the fog light to your relay and your light bar will be on with your fog lights. OR you could do this. https://youtu.be/4fESc7THdsQ

110,600 on my 2014 bought in 11/13. I had a few things replaced under warranty. The only thing I have had to pay for out of pocket is 1/3 the cost to replace my condenser because it cracked like everyone else's around 65k miles. I do all my oil changes myself with mobil 1 w/ acdelco filter. had the tranny flushed at dealer and about to have the diffs and t-case flushed as well. I am also about to replace my water pump because the bearings seem to make a weird noises sometimes. So I will replace the coolant and upper and lower radiator hoses along with the belts while I am in there. It's been a great truck for me! I leveled it at around 8k miles and put 275 70 18 bfg ko's on it at around 10 miles. Suspension has held up nicely. I do grease my tie rod ends every time I do an oil change and inspect all other ball joint boots and control arm / sway bar bushings while I am there.

Because I was almost 30k miles out of bumper to bumper warranty. They covered a decent portion which was better than nothing. Should they have paid for the whole thing, sure. But they definitely did not have to pay a cent either so I'll take it.

Mine went out earlier this year and I had about 65k on my truck at the time. I had the dealer fix it and they covered like 75% of the cost. I paid about $500 out of pocket. The condenser itself from GM was like $320 I believe and then plus the seals was like another $100 bucks or so. I attempted to get the condenser from O'reilly's however they also did not have any and were on back order... crappy situation but it cost me an extra like 100 - 200 bucks to have GM do it as me doing it myself. un-luckily for me I took out my cracked condenser and took it to orielly to get a new one before I knew about all this non-sense. So I had to put in the old condenser back in. So I did all the work for no damn reason...

My horn intermittently works when I lock my truck. But it works every time I honk the horn at some stupid driver...

chevy or gmc? I have a spare chrome GMC grille that i would be willing to part ways with for some cash.

The Oreilly in my area told me that no store in the Houston area has a murray condenser as they are also on back order... that was what I was going to do but the dealer was the only place I was able to find in my area that had a condenser.

Well, you clearly joined the forum because of your A/C issue. I have a '14 and have 73k on my truck. I just had my condenser replaced last week. I was going to replace it myself but the only place I could find one was at a local dealer and for the condenser it was $325 and for two seals (which were over priced) was $400 out the door. My dealer said that GM was going to cover about 1k worth of the cost. So I paid $560 out of pocket. So I paid about $100 more than I would have if I fixed it myself. Take it to GM and have them diagnose it and see what they will cover. They more than likely will not fight it because they know it is a huge issue. It sucks but at the end of the day, what can you do!?!?

Really, I had not heard of that. well I will see if mine holds up or not. no sense in fixing something if it is not broken.

I did not even try, I guess I could but from what I have seen here on the forums is that GM will offer to pay half. Even if they pay half it would be cheaper for me to fix it. I will try and give them a call tomorrow but I am not going to stress myself out about that. $400 for the condenser and seals and probably about $30 or so in freon and about 4 hours of my time is what it will cost me to fix it.

No, I do not. It is not leaking there, I am going to buy that bracket though to prevent that from happening.

i am out of warranty... 73000 miles on my truck so it's on my dime...

Add me to the troubled condenser list... About a month ago I was driving to work on a sticky Houston night, about ~75*f or so with probably 80% humidity when I noticed that my A/C was not blowing cold. So I double checked that my temps knobs were set right along with the blend door adjustment. Once I checked all that I knew the A/C was not working. So when I got to work I checked the compressor and saw that the clutch was engaged, so that was interesting. Took it to a buddy that has a machine to recover any freon left in the system and the machine recovered very little, less than an ounce. I thought that was weird due to the clutch still being engaged with such low freon levels. So we filled it back up and put some dye in it and all was good. This past Thursday I went to drive to work and my A/C was no longer working so after work when I got home, I was able to find the leak. And wouldn't you know it, it's the condenser (thank you GM). I was scheduled to go out of town on Friday morning and since I work night shift when I got off of work it was Friday morning. So I start tearing it down to pull the condenser out only to get it out and find that no part store or dealer has the part as they are on national back order. So I am pretty pissed off at this point, put it all back together vacuum the system and charge it and the A/C worked great. Although risky, I took it out of town 4 hours away, stayed out there for 2 days and drove it back home, about 500 miles of driving. A/c worked great the whole time and the next day it went out again, but this time I just added a little freon back in the system to hold me over. A dealer near me just received 8 condensers today so I picked one up but it hurt, $400 for the condenser and two seals (rip off). I have worked on some a/c systems before but I am by no means an ASE certified mechanic. My question is how should I go about adding oil to the system. When I took the condenser off the first time I lost some oil and when I went to replace it, I poured some oil in one end and then it started to come out of the other. I have seen some people use a syringe type tool to add oil in the system after it is charged but I have seen people just poor oil in the system before putting it back together. I am a little unsure how to go about adding oil back into the system. GM says to add 2oz into the system after replacing the condenser but if more comes out then to go with that amount. So I will be adding at least 2 oz, just asking the best way to go about this. Any help would be great, also I am trying to get a video of my leak uploaded, so once that happens I will upload it here.

While these trucks have had a radiator problem, I believe all you are seeing is the cold water hitting the hot radiator, trans cooler and condenser. It is nothing to worry about, my truck does it along with every other car I have ever driven in my life. Even if it is warm outside if I drive in the rain and then stop at a light where it is it not raining I can see steam coming from the front of my truck. It is not a big deal and would not worry about it unless you smell coolant and / or see a loss of coolant.

I am not sure if they changed this on the 2015 but I looked at my drive shaft and there is no zirt fitting for me to fill with grease. That is for the the prop shaft and the U-joints.

PHEW! revived from the dead, feels so good!

I posted a question that i was able to answer, your truck is a v6 which is why it calls for 5w30. also i would be pissed if someone made that much of a mess changing my oil.

bought mine in 11/13 and the clock just ticked over 45k. Heating element in driver seat has been replaced, rear end was rebuild with about 38k for excessive backlash which caused gear whine.

Method Mesh 18x9 +18 offset [/url]

yeah it's a cree led light bar off ebay. and it is pretty bright! for 60 bucks im impressed. the real test is time though. we will see how it holds up. on another note, this thing is a tight fit with the grill on. the plastic grille slat is literally touching the light bar. if the light bar was 1/16" further out it would not fit unless it was a curved light bar.