ThundahBeagle

Scout will really only bay when he's on a hot scent or has visually acquired a rabbit. He will more traditionally bark if theres someone at the door or just outside the house though. Other than that he doesnt really make a noise for not reason, so if he barks or bays, I have to get up and look around to see what he sees.

Beautiful dog, Grumpy! I like the brindle coloring. Here's Scout the Thundah Beagle at Mt. Washington this past weekend:

Thanks, Grump! Me too. One of the best dogs I've ever had. He's all "go, go, go!" and wants to be outside in the woods and mountains all the time "on the hunt."

To @Epsilon Plus Coil-overs work by placing the shock inside the coil spring, but that coil spring has to have an attachment or "perch" location on the shock itself. The Bilstein 5100's have 4 settings. The lowest setting is "stock" height. Top setting is about 1.8 inches above stock. If you have a lift that uses shims above or below your coilover unit, and you are using stock shocks, then you can simply change out your shocks with the 4600's or the 5100's set at the lowest perch setting. Most people get the 5100's INSTEAD of using shims, because the spring perch can be set higher. The shock fluid is not the cause of the lift, the fact that the coil spring sits higher on the shock is what is doing the work. Like choking up on a baseball bat. So for example, you could get rid of the BDS hardware at the front of your truck and just use the Bilstein 5100's at the top setting. Supposedly you will get a better ride quality as well. I have the Bilstein 5100's on my truck and they ride great. Way better than the Ranchos that I took out of there. I hope that helps

I am relying on the stock UCA's, but I'm only using Bilstein 5100's and nothing special

They are playing off this type of scheme here:

I've seen this old-school color scheme being done by a number of dealers out there. The exterior of these trucks definitely give off a '70's vibe, and I think the best ones have been done using white 17 inch steel wagon wheel rims. That's what I'd like to do with mine:

Please see my question in the post immediately above this one, if you happen to know. Thanks

Well I'm wanting to know a professional shop's opinion (anyone's experience, really but for sure a 4x4 shop) on whether the removal of the 1.25" block and replacement with a tapered 2.25" block is actually a good idea on these trucks if I've just installed Bilstein 5100's at the top setting at the front? Is the drive shaft angle within acceptible limits as is, or am I looking for trouble down the road if I dont install 2.25 inch blocks with a taper? I've got a 5 or 6 thousand mile road trip - Boston to Big Sky and back- coming up in October and I dont want to cause an issue before and certainly not during that trip. Sorry if some of this ground has been covered. I wanted to read this whole topic first. Git to page 40-something and went plaid. So I decided to cut to the chase

Is @MRT Motorsports still on here?

@Sierra Jon , is that enough to qualify as a heavy half ton or would you need the leafs fully swapped out with the 5 from a 2500?

That looks really good for holding 1200. I'm with you, I dont need to go terribly fast anymore, I just know it was steady as a rock no matter what speed I brought it up to, and I'd like to keep it that way, as stable and steady as possible. So I'm optimistic Thanks

@Granite7, is this picture with the truck loaded with the concrete? I've got my front Bilstein 5100's at the top notch, and am thinking about a 1 inch taller block as well. What block did you use? Any predisposition between, say, Ready Lift and MotoFab or any of the others? Some have complained that these are tapered, but with the front raised almost a couple of clicks, I guess that's to align the drive shaft better...any input with your setup? I hope not to have vibrations at 75mph, as I had a very nice riding truck when it was totally stock

Very very nice! I really like the cab-height better than a 4 inch rise. And having Line-x put on it makes it sort of like the 1970's K5 Blazer tops. I might do that to mine

I admit that I would prefer a cab-height cap instead of a low rise, but the cap and the rack were both Craigslist finds, and will serve well. The cap has a sliding side windows, a two-handle lockong rear liftgate, and a front window that is both removable and with sliders. All I need now is to replace my rear glass with even a manual slider, and that would just be about right.