Jsdirt

You'll need to track down a wiring issue in that case (Or a blown fuse, possibly - could be in a location that hasn't been looked at yet). I'd do a visual first, and if you don't see anything obvious (Do a wiggle test as well of the wiring while someone watches the meter - might be a broken wire inside the harness, or even inside the jacket of what looks like an intact wire), then grab an AllData DIY subscription. Will be the best money you've ever spent. Trust me on that one! Trying to work on anything built this century without one is like flying single-pilot IFR with no instruments (Only safer ).

I've got THOUSANDS upon THOUSANDS invested in this truck. Partly to make it the ultimate tow vehicle, and partly to fix GM's low bidder crap parts they stuck me with. It's not perfect - over 16 years she's got dents (tailgate), scratches inside and out, broken trim (tailgate, again), and rust over the rear wheels. Underneath, where it counts, is PERFECTLY PRESERVED with an annual coating of oil. The undercarriage on this is just as good as anything you'll find down South or out West, without the rubber deterioration from heat and UV. Been garaged since new, religiously. Parked in the shade wherever I went. My new job has a parking garage where it sat all day out of the sun and rain. Mechanic owned, maintained to a TEE. Amsoil fluids run front to back with the exception of the power steering fluid and coolant, both of which have been flushed years ago. Has dual Viair compressors in the bed underneath a Roll-Bak retractable tonneau cover which runs rear Firestone Ride-Rite airbags, and the Ox Locker rear differential. The air bags are adjustable from inside the cab. The locker is controlled by a switch on the left side of the instrument cluster. Care was taken during installation to make sure all the air lines and wiring were protected for years against road grit, heat, and vibration. I've worked on cars long enough to see what works and what doesn't. I bought this brand new - first new vehicle I ever owned in my life, so it got the royal treatment for 16+ years. 134,589 miles. Auto 4x4, rear defrost, auto dimming mirrors w/power folding, power adjusting, heat, & LED turn signal, factory Bose system with CD changer, auto HVAC, leather interior, factory remote start, and 3 programmable factory garage door buttons up on the headliner. It had heated washer fluid from the factory, but GM disabled it due to the fire hazard. The Takata airbag recall has been performed, along with any other recalls in the past. Has a Wilwood front brake system with braided steel lines (STOPS on a DIME!!), Moog ball joints both upper and lower, Bilstein struts and shocks, Moog end links, and SKF X-Tracker hub bearings. Has factory GM wheels off a 2010 LTZ, with Hankook Ventus S/T tires - 5k miles on them. No expense spared. I also have the OE 18" alloys it came with, with Bridgestone Blizzak tires mounted for winter. They're in rough shape from road salt, but make a great set of winter wheels. NO bead corrosion - just external. Any electronics that were replaced (o2 sensors, high and low pressure A/C switches, oil pressure sender) were all Genuine GM replacement parts. I'd put this truck up against any for sale ANYWHERE right now, and if it didn't come out #1 in terms of maintenance and condition for the year, it would easily be in the top 5. I've seen a lot of used vehicles over my years, and this one is one of the best ones you'll ever find. Cash only for payment. I can follow you home with it on a flatbed if you want it delivered, (For a fee, and only on my days off, depending on how far) or bring your truck and trailer, and tow your old truck home with this one. You'll love it! I also have $14,000 worth of go-fast goodies I bought, before I found a Cummins diesel truck I've been lusting after for decades. Change of plans forces ALL of this for sale! ALL NEW IN BOX, never removed from box! Magnuson supercharger, American Racing coated SS long-tube catted headers (1-3/4" x 3") for TORQUE, BTR Truck Norris cam, a complete Texas Speed AFM delete kit with Morel lifters & a kit, WITH THE TOOL, to block off the AFM towers in the block WITHOUT removing the engine! Also have a Melling oil pump, Motorad t-stat, genuine GM MAF sensor all new in box, along with a bunch of other stuff I'm undoubtedly forgetting. Either post here or PM your questions. The truck and myself are located in central MA. Can't upload pics here due to size, so have to link to a free hosting site. Please excuse the disorganization due to this. Only thing this truck needs is a real GOOD cleaning. I ran it through a quick car wash just to get the heavy stuff off, but it needs a good detailing inside and out. I haven't had the time, and don't have the time now. With a professional detailing, this thing will be MINT, aside from the rusted rear fenders. Cab corners, rockers, and bottoms of doors are SOLID. Rear fenders are the worst of it. Asking $18,000. Just remembered it has Westin stainless steel "wheel-to-wheel step rails, genuine GM chrome gas cover & door handles, Putco bed rails, a glass catch can to keep the intake clean, and a Range AFM disabler that's been in place for the past 50k miles. LED fog lights and backup lamps as well. Bosch Icon wipers. I'm sure there's more I've forgotten ... Silverado pics YouTube vid of exhaust note with remote start, and interior:

On my '07 Silverado 1500, I had to fish that wire out of the harness (Was taped up underneath the master cylinder), and bolt it to the stud on the underhood fuse box. It probably just needs to be connected, or, a fuse needs to be installed to complete the circuit. Not sure how they do it in '23. Hopefully you can find the info on the net, or, you'll have to buy a AllData DIY subscription to get it. Make sure you print it out for your records if you do.

If I could afford it, I'd be on 300 or more acres with a mile long driveway in the middle of the woods with no neighbors, with my own private airstrip, and ATV trails all around. Around here, that'd be around $200M, just for the land alone ... don't even want to know what the taxes would be on that ... Then I'd have anyone within an earshot crying about the noise from the airstrip. But if I had that kind of money, I'd get the hell out of here so fast the letters would rearrange on the "Now Leaving Massachusetts" sign! Headed somewhere where it doesn't snow, and where the people are FREE.

They're like parasites. The things they believe in and vote for destroy the place they live, so they move, leaving all the poor people stuck in the quagmire they created. Then they move to greener pastures, and F-up that place the same exact way! Even in MA it happens. People from Boston moved west into my hometown. Now my dad pays $6,300 a year in property taxes, and they're going up EVERY year exponentially, due to all the idiots in that town voting in every single Proposition 2-1/2 override that comes up for vote. These people think by throwing government and money at problems will make them better, when in fact the 180° opposite is true. Part of me thinks this is all part of the grand plan - these people are being PAID to do this. My small town of 5k people here is starting to vote with the leftists. It's been a Conservative stronghold forever. Somehow some leftist candidates mysteriously got voted into our select board, and here we go, down the path of every other MA town / city. They think they're creating a utopia, but the only thing they're accomplishing is setting us up for American Revolution 2.0, and this one is going to be ugly.

Good help is hard to find these days across ALL lines of business. Case in point, I just spur-of-the-moment bought a pristine, 30 year old Cummins-powered Dodge pickup (That I should've bought 16 years ago instead of my Silverado, but that's another story for another day!) - my insurance company, which I happen to now work for in the maintenance department, emailed me a document and said I was good to go to the MA Registry (RMV) to get my plates transferred. Well, the document I received wasn't anywhere close to what was needed! Thankfully, due to 5-decades of living in this S-hole state, I knew something wasn't right, and asked questions. I got the correct documents only after questioning! Had I been a 16 year old kid that just got his license, I'd have waited there an hour only to be told EVERYTHING is WRONG! On that note, because this is the over-governed (By MORONS, too!) state of MA, I couldn't transfer the plates ... because my wife's name was on them - she had to co-sign the loan for the Silverado in '07 because my credit sucked. SO - I waited there an HOUR for them to tell me this! I lost it on the poor girl teller - she asked me to stop swearing at her. I had to leave, drive 20 miles home, get my "wife's permission" (LOL!!!) to transfer the plates in writing, to bring another 20 miles back, to sit ANOTHER hour to get my registration and title!!! This state will drive you INSAAAANE with the idiocy!! That's what I did the first 6 hours of my day today! If anyone tells you to move to MA, RUN the other way!! Hopefully someone can now laugh at this story.

Could also be loaded with air, too, especially if someone tried to recharge it not knowing how those parts store can taps work. That'll send pressures sky high and blow warm. A fan failure will, too. No airflow over the condenser, or a plugged up condenser (Check between the rad and condenser for tree debris, mouse nest, etc.) sends the pressure REAL high. Systems don't suddenly have "high pressure", unless overcharged, or having the aforementioned issues.

You won't have power to those fuses unless you have the lights turned on. This is some strange engineering - they have a relay for parking lamps, starter, etc., yet nothing for the headlights. I'm fairly certain the headlight "relay" portion is controlled by the BCM, which is why you can't find it. The BCM is actually sending the high current to the lights, instead of a cube relay. Without a relay you can physically touch, this is the only way it can work. I do know that the headlight switch ONLY sends a signal to the BCM as to what lights should be on. There are very light gauge wires at the switch - very unlike the good old days when we pulled a knob out to get lights, with ZERO computers in the mix. SO, if you turn the headlight switch on, and you still have no power to those fuses, the problem is either the switch, wiring to and from the switch, powers & grounds to the BCM, or the BCM itself. Modern automobiles for ya. Nothing is straightforward or simple anymore.

Par for the course. From what I saw over my 14 years turning wrenches, the newer the vehicle (REGARDLESS of brand), the more corners were cut at the factory. Everything is cheaply made, yet the engineering is overly complicated. A recipe for constant problems. Wiring gets thinner, copper content goes down / less quality, so what would've been a non-issue just a few years ago, becomes an issue. I can't wait to see how this new crop is holding up in 10 years ...

Should still be under warranty. I'd let GM figure out their shoddy parts selection and engineering. This is the only case in which I recommend a dealer repair - an active warranty.

DO NOT go to the dealer!!!! That is, unless you want the whole system replaced for, just a guess, probably $8,000. You need to find another shop. That's a RIPOFF for parts only. For the whole job, it's a high down here in the states, but in Canada that might be just borderline high. The dealer is no place for a '16 to be. Only time a dealer ever touched my vehicle was under warranty ... and they screwed that up royally! They found every opportunity to deceive me, and weasel out of warranty claims. They smashed my truck up on one occasion, too, from bumper to bumper along the passenger side! Corporate pay scales encourage speed over being thorough, plus parts and labor costs are usually 50-150% higher than most shops. GM not only screws you, the consumer, but screws their techs just as badly, if not worse. I realize there are good and bad among ALL shops, but that said, the overwhelming majority of GM dealers will make you pull your hair out as you go broke. Your odds are MUCH better at an independent shop. Just do your research - talk to people, Google the name, read reviews, etc.. There is no reason to replace lines UNLESS they are damaged and/or leaking. On a case such as this, first thing I would do is see if the compressor is able to "compress". If that checks out, I would inspect the system for contamination. If it's clean, I'd replace the accumulator, orifice tube, and condenser and call it a day. Last one I did I charged LESS than $700 USD for parts AND labor. If the compressor is junk, and/or grenaded and sent shrapnel through the entire system, now $1,200 is sounding reasonable. That's (grenaded compressor) the worst-case scenario as far as money goes.

Could be any part of the wiring from the fuse, all the way back to the trailer. Seems fuse 10 powers trailer related components. What's the abbreviation say for that fuse? What year, make, model are we working on here?

You probably had a seat sensor for the passenger-side airbag in your 2011 passenger seat. If there's less than 40 pounds in that seat, it disables the passenger-side airbag. If there's a plug hanging from it that you had to disconnect there, then that's it. The '18 probably has it's own, too. Code scan with a decent scan tool will confirm this, or not. Not sure if that older sensor is even compatible with the '18 - it's not even remotely the same vehicle architecture. You could try to plug it in to the vehicle, but I'd wager you'd need to chop the old plug off to do so. You could connect the 2 via jump wires just to test - worst that can happen is a blown fuse if the wires happen to touch.

Good deal! Glad to hear it! What exactly did you find?

Yeah I sure miss those days. Stuff was so easy to fix! Lasted forever, too. I spent more money buying and fixing my '07 Silverado 1500 over the years that I could've bought everything I've driven and repaired for the past 3 decades, 6 times over and probably STILL not reach what I've spent! It's sickening ... The good part is all those codes are transmission related - that's good in that it'll make it a LITTLE easier as to where to focus your efforts. Based on experience, I'm doubtful this is all ignition switch related, but if I've learned one thing in the decades of repairing all things gas-powered, it's that NOTHING is certain. This is screaming of a wiring problem to me. Best course of action is to get a wiring diagram from ALLDATAdiy - money well spent. Trust me on that one. Without a diagram you'd be better off rolling a set of dice. What I would do next is find the common denominator for all those codes. Could be one wire, multiple wires, bad ground, or a short, etc., and go from there. See what systems or parts are effected, and trace the wires out to each component. After you do this, often times you'll find they all source power from the same place. As always, do the easy stuff first - battery cables, related connectors, tug & wiggle-test wiring, then move on to the more involved stuff. This sort of thing is a pain in the ass in person, let alone trying to diagnose it 3k miles away over the net, so patience, perseverance, and a wiring diagram are a must.

Before you start firing the parts cannon at it, you need to find out WHY you have no power there. If it's due to mouse-chewed, corroded, or broken wiring underneath the fuse box (or anywhere else), an entire PALLET of ignition switches won't do you much good ... although you'll be expert at changing them.

Common problem is WIRING. Loss of power or ground to the PCM can cause this code along with the symptom you described. Wiring today is low-bidder garbage (along with just about every other part) - doesn't take very much at all to rub through and short to ground or power, or become an open. Sometimes this garbage wire will break INSIDE the jacketing (insulation), making detection impossible without the "tug test". If you grab the wire and keep a suspected break in between your hands as you attempt to pull the wire apart, and it stretches like Silly Putty, you've found that particular issue. This can happen in a billion varying degrees - so if one strand of copper is all that is making the connection, the component requiring power will intermittently fail when current draw is highest. That particular kind of wiring failure used to never exist. Welcome to the 21st century ... That said, check the basics first, starting with battery cables as mentioned.

I assume the engine came out for that overhaul, so your issue is related to that, I'd almost 100% guarantee. A pinched ground or power wire that is held in continuity by one strand could potentially cause this. If it was done in the vehicle, wire pinching is still possible between the head or oil pan. Since you've got a MAP code, I'd grab a wiring diagram for the MAP and trace anything and everything related to that until you're 10,000% sure every single wire is intact. And I'd avoid that shop in the future ... and spread the word to your friends & family, too.

Heat shrink butt connectors are my method of fixing this kind of damage up here in MA, where the salt flies every winter, and moisture is a constant concern 365 days a year. Some people argue soldering is better, using heat shrink and waterproof shrink-tubing on the solder joints, but solder cracks with vibration. Up here, we get constant and relentless vibration not just from the normal operating characteristics of a motor vehicle, but our legendarily shitty, 3rd-world-country-rivaling road conditions, so heat shrink butt connectors, crimped properly, will be much better than soldering. The key is to make sure you get EVERY wire back to its other half. Should be easy when cut in the middle like that, since all the wires should be the same color. At connectors it gets tricky, since sometimes automakers like to change wire colors after a connection point. In a situation like you have here, I'll cut all the wires diagonally, so that you don't end up with a giant mass of butt connections all in one spot. Makes the repair much neater. If you can't spare the wire length, then don't worry about this - as long as it works, all is well.

Also make sure the fuel in the tank is decent, and not ethanol-separated or stale. I'd wager that thing sat around a bit and it's probably borderline. Change the fuel filter, then once you get a few full tanks of fuel through it, add some BG44K to the 4th tank at the gas station before you fill up. That'll clean everything out. Might take another 4 or more tanks after that before it starts running normally again.

Flat lined means either the sensor is completely dead, or wiring shorted, or blown fuse. As I said, betting on a shorted wire. Power Probe will easily find that. Power on one side, signal (lower varying voltage) on the other. If you've got no power, that'll flatline it too. That's fused power, labeled as such (usually). Test light will work for testing the heater circuit (the 2 wires of the same color) - it's a pulse-width modulated (PWM) circuit, so you should see blinking / flickering of varying speed if that circuit is working. You'd have a code for that, though - your code is for the sensor wiring, not the heater circuit wiring, so I wouldn't worry about that yet.

Your answer is right there in the code description. "CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION" - that's not a mechanical problem - it's a circuit problem. You need to check the wiring from the plug to the ECM for a short.

It was running - no reason to replace anything ignition-related. You either need to do a hard reset (disconnect battery for an hour or more, then touch the positive and negative wires together [away from the battery, of course], then reconnect both to the battery), or you need a new battery (voltage too low). If the jump pack somehow put out more than 15v, you could've fried a module or 2 as well. Usually sudden problem like this are due to logic lock (need to get the STUPID out of the computer by doing the aforementioned hard reset), loose / corroded battery cables, or low battery voltage. If the battery was removed at any point my money would be on something related to the cables.

Yep, great point. I've seen plenty mix-matched in my time turning wrenches, but ideally you'd want them all the same brand. Sizing is the most important, with a matching brand second.

As others have already mentioned, ANY vehicle equipped with a transfer case MUST have 4 matching tire sizes.