Jsdirt

I've seen this happen in small engines, but it was a 350° - 355° rotation, with only 10° or less where it stopped dead. That was due to excessive carbon buildup on the piston. That was caused by running crap, stale fuel for many hours, then letting the equipment sit idle for years. The carbon would swell up on top of the piston (presumably from moisture and then lots of gasoline in an attempt to get it running again), enough so that the piston couldn't pass through top dead center. I actually have a picture of the carbon I peeled off a Tecumseh generator engine I'll attach ... With a 180° rotation, if the problem wasn't there prior to starting the work, then it's something that was done during the repair. There's no mechanical system that intentionally locks an engine - I can just imagine the carnage with a system like that with the way quality control is these days! Oh yeah ... can't attach pics here for whatever reason. Only forum on the net that won't let me! Guess I'll have to link it: https://postimg.cc/ppM8vFnZ

I would double check the new lifters against the old. Could have the wrong part number in there. If they are the same, then you're going to have to go over EVERYTHING again. Pushrod location and length, if the rockers were tightened correctly, etc.. I'm not familiar with anything this new, but knowing GM, there's probably something they left out of the manual that's mission critical that needs to be performed I hate these engines built the past 20+ years since there are so many things engineered into them that can bite you in the ass and ruin your day. A-hole engineering, I call it. Nothing is intuitive anymore!

I expected to see lean codes, since that is a classic fuel starvation symptom. Electronics throw the intermittent problems into the mix, however. You would need to find out what you're losing when the symptoms happen. Is fuel pressure dropping? If so, why? Is fuel pressure low at all times, or only under load? What is the MAF grams / second reading at idle, and at full throttle? What are the o2's doing at idle, and at full throttle? ETC., ETC., ... I know historically the fuel pump control module is mounted in probably the worst possible location (right where water and road debris get fired at it full speed), and is failure prone. Could very well be failing as it heats up. Could just be the pump itself failing when full duty cycle power is applied to it. Could still be a failing MAF. But that first code indicates a possible module issue - that needs to be investigated. Lots of possibilities. This is the main reason my newest vehicle of 5 these days was built in 1994. Got tired of troubleshooting endless electrical issues on customer's vehicles, and have no desire to do so on my own stuff. It is MEGA AGGRAVATING when it happens, and there are never any easy fixes as you know!

Can't say I'm shocked to hear this. Par for the 21st century course! Build date on my EverStart battery in my 940 is 11/2013. Still going, even after sitting out there since late March. Tried to post a pic of it, but this forum doesn't like my pics for some reason. Wifey just started driving it since the P/S pump in hers decided to take a dump. Been wondering what that noise was the past 18 months, lol. Now I can see the pump hopping at any engine speed. At least I don't have to troubleshoot anything now. Always something! Can't complain after 31 years, 260k miles I suppose. Let's see if this works: https://postimg.cc/CdJC5C71

It's always been my line of thinking that the charging systems on most vehicles (nearly all) was designed around a lead-acid battery. An AGM requires just a couple tenths more voltage to reach 100% - something the charging system will never deliver. In my own experience, I got 6 years out of the OE battery with a bit of help from a 4-stage temp-sensing charger. Bought an Odyssey AGM for $300, and only got 5 years out of that one with LOTS of help from that same charger (which also happens to have an "Odyssey AGM" specific setting on it). I've had great luck with EverStart batteries. They get a bad rap because they're sold at Walmart, but they're made by Johnson Controls - one of only 3 battery manufacturers left in the states. I've got over 10 years out of 3 of them so far in my older vehicles. Got one in my '94 Volvo 940 right now approaching ELEVEN years. 2-3 years out of those suggests you've got a parasitic draw somewhere. Either that, or there needs to be an update to the BCM for charging voltage. On these trucks, that's all controlled by the BCM, and it varies - that's why sometimes your wipers will move slower than usual, and the volt gauge reads down a bit. If the computer sees the battery voltage fully charged, it'll back off charging current, all done in a desperate attempt to squeeze every single tenth of a MPG out of of the truck. Sounds great on paper, but sucks in practice, like most things GM does these days. There's a workaround to that - there's a way to get the alternator out of the BCM's control, but that'll undoubtedly throw a code, and if you live where they inspect, no sticker for you. I've forgotten how it's done. I believe it was clipping one or more wires, and/or connecting a jumper wire somewhere at the alternator. The alternator will be limited to a constant 13.3V, or something close to that number, which isn't ideal either. I hate that!! I know I could've got a minimum of 8 years out of the OE battery if not for the damn computer controlling the stupid field. I'd be running some tests for parasitic draw, and to make sure the belt isn't slipping, or if the alternator, or wiring is failing in some way. First order of business is polishing up BOTH ends of BOTH positive and negative cables, and also polishing up where they connect. If there's any kind of green crap from nicks in the jacket, or around the terminals, trash them both and get new ones. 9 times out of 10, this fixes many charging issues.

Ahh, the joys of working on modern vehicles. In this day and age you pretty much got to stick with what the truck came with as far as replacement parts go. 2011 is Global-A architecture - a completely different animal. If you mix and match modules on a global A vehicle, the ECU bricks itself nine times out of 10. GM calls this an “antitheft” feature. In reality, it is a major headache for seasoned techs and DIY’ers alike. So in other words, NOT compatible. I would try to get your money back on that one, or cut your losses and sell whatever you have that you’re stuck with. however, there are people who do this type of crap day in and day out so maybe there’s a workaround? If there is, I certainly want no part of it! This is why my newest vehicle is now a 1994 model. Everything is stress-free and cheap for me again. Good luck.

Doesn’t have to be a Tech 2. Any higher end, bi-directional scan tool will handle that. Autel is probably the best bang for your buck, but things have changed, and are changing constantly as is par for the course in this industry …so best to do your own research there.

Complete and total injector failure, new or not! Either it got damaged during installation or they're the worst quality counterfeit or chinese parts available. That would most certainly bend or break a connecting rod, destroy bearings by diluting oil, fry catalytic converters to a cinder, etc..

#1 cause, lack of lubrication. These engines are notorious for oiling issues, either with age, or self-inflicted (by the last person to work on it). #2, Power adders ... AKA, too much boost (from supercharger or turbo[s] ) one too many times. They'll spit con rods every time on a stock engine. #3 hydrolock. Sucking in water driving through water, or a massive head gasket failure allowing coolant and oil in the combustion chamber (not common). Usually bends, but can break them in extreme cases.

You'll probably get more help if you just post a video of it with audio to YouTube, rather than something someone has to download and risk a trojan horse ...

Keep in mind a compression leak will make a sound EXACTLY like a belt. Modern PCV systems can, too. Anyone who has owned, or worked on a Chevy Cruze will know what I'm talking about there. Take the belt OFF, and fire it up. If the noise is still there, I'd bet it's got CO in the cooling system. In other words, a blown head gasket. You could get lucky and find it's a PCV issue, exacerbated by worn rings.

It's under warranty. Make GM fix their problem! That said, it sounds like (from here) to be a park pawl that's, for some reason, trying to engage something that's moving, but shouldn't be ... That's a strange one. But, I'd let the people who built it figure that one out.

Probably has a 13mm head, but I guarantee you it's NOT anywhere near a 13mm BOLT. That is HUGE - half inch wide! No chance in hell GM would spend that kind of money on hardware for a valley cover. Bring another undamaged bolt with you to a hardware store - they usually have the display there with the hole for the shank size, and threads to figure out the pitch. Home Depot and Lowe's have that as well. If I were to guess, it's probably an 8mm or 6mm bolt. Use a wrench to measure the threaded portion. If a 8mm wrench fits it perfectly, it's an 8mm. Knowing GM, it's some oddball size / length that you won't be able to match up at a hardware store as far as one to buy. But you might get lucky. Probably $5 each through GM, lol. Or $10 ...

Ahh, that's it - it's the rear brake line that splits to the left and right sides on top of the rear diff. Mystery solved! Now if we knew which model '04 Silverado this was, we could link to a new brake hose assembly. 1500? 2500 / 3500??? A new mystery evolves ... No

Anthony, you need to zoom that pic out a bit so we can see what we're looking at. Looks like a brake line leaking on a brake caliper from here, although I've never seen one use a Torx fastener before.

Whatever pressure it's at when the system is cooling to the best of its ability. There's no "recommended pressure" on any A/C system. That changes with ambient temperature, and can change pretty wildly with wide temp swings. Your gauges are just to alert you of problems. High side too high (300+ psi or higher) on a 70° day indicates the condenser isn't getting adequate airflow, if the low side is at a reasonable pressure. Could be a bad fan clutch, slipping belt, failing electric fan if equipped, debris between condenser and radiator, etc.. On a 100° day, 300 psi might be normal. If both low and high sides are high and there's little to no cooling, there could be air or other non-condensables in the system. Rule of thumb that I always shot for was to get the outlet of the evaporator just slightly cooler than the inlet. That means you've got a little liquid refrigerant in reserve in the accumulator, and if the system is leak free, you'll have many years of service. And ALWAYS charge into a vacuum for best results. Unless you're topping off ... which is frowned upon in the professional world. In that case you have to purge the lines with refrigerant (*illegal!*) to remove the air. Bottom line is you need a LEAK FREE system before doing any service. Got to find and fix ALL leaks FIRST. STEER CLEAR OF SEALER!! And beware of cans containing oil charge. If you already have the correct amount of oil, then charge the system with a can containing oil, you've just killed the efficiency of the system. The more oil over the amount required, the worse the system will perform, up to not cooling at all ... or worst case scenario, a catastrophic compressor failure which will then render every single component of your A/C system trash.

ABS unit is the only thing left, besides a proportioning valve if it's not part of the ABS unit.

https://www.alldata.com/diy-us/en

Yeah, don't do that - you'll fry the coil to a cinder. Best money you can spend is on a AllData DIY wiring diagram. Trust me on that one! It's cheaper than replacing fried components. Like I said, I'm not 100% sure what the wire color is there since I'm going off memory ... which is fickle on my best day.

Yep, that's it. Going off memory, I believe I tapped into the lower half of that plug, bottom row (hardest to see), all the way to the right (closest to cab / firewall). Was a black wire if I remember right. Probably easier to tap into the top wire, no doubt. Just to check ... get an INCANDESCENT (NOT LED) test light, connect the clip to battery POSITIVE, unplug that connector and touch it to that wire (make sure the key is OFF) connector in the lower half of that plug (don't jam the pointy end in there - just TOUCH it lightly to make electrical contact). If the test light lights up, turn the key ON and test it again. If it is still lit up, then that is the correct ground wire.

No, would be the wire underneath - last one on the right of the bottom row of wires. I can't tell the orientation of the picture, but I don't remember the wire being pink. DO NOT ground that until you're sure of what wire is what. That does look like the plug - if it's sitting on top of the driver's side valve cover, then that's it. Just double check with a Alldata DIY subscription, or a printout of a wiring diagram to be sure you'll be grounding a GROUND wire, and not anything else.

And make sure a male pin didn't get bent over inside that plug for the coil harness. Something to try (I may have mentioned this on your other thread) - on the driver's side plug for the coil harness, the bottom row of wires (hardest to see, naturally ...), I believe it's a black wire and the last one all the way closest to the firewall / cab (DOUBLE CHECK THIS FIRST so you don't fry anything - I'm going off of my memory, which can be dangerous these days ...) - ground that wire and see if you have spark. If you do, then just splice a wire into that one, run it up to the firewall to that long stud sticking out about in the center of the cab, crimp an eyelet connector on the end of the wire, remove the nut on that long stud, install the eyelet, and tighten the nut back down. You now have an alternative ground, rather than fishing around behind the power steering pump. The ground there is a common failure point and causes a no-spark condition.

I would concentrate on the #2 misfire. EVAP is an emission-only thing and shouldn't affect operation, unless a purge valve is stuck open and making the vehicle run either pig rich, or very lean. Bad EGR components can cause a rough idle. Did you have any of these symptoms? If not, you just fired the parts cannon - you'd have been better served burning your money for heat. Does the vehicle actually have a misfire? What's compression on #2 if it does? What are your fuel trims at idle, cruise, and full-throttle? What were the symptoms regardless of the codes?

At that mileage, there's a good chance the engine is just worn out. Excessive big-end and crank bearing clearances will significantly lower oil pressure, as will excessive camshaft bearing clearances. Hotter oil by nature is reduced in viscosity, so that lowers it even further. Naturally oil pressure will hit zero when the engine is turned off ... but if I understand you correctly, the pressure gauge went to zero, then the engine immediately SHUT ITSELF off afterward? This could point to a loss of the 5v reference required for most engine sensors. The loss is usually the result of a chaffed wire shorting out on metal that rubbed through an unprotected or damaged section of wire, but can also be caused by a faulty PCM (engine / transmission computer), or bad powers / grounds to that computer, or an internally-shorted sensor. Without the 5v reference, none of the sensors that use this reference can report accurate information regarding engine operation, and will usually kill the engine, depending on which sensor is affected. If the 5v reference is gone, NONE of the sensors will work right. If the 5v reference is present during the stall, then you need to investigate the stalling problem before anything else. If you find the problem to be solely a worn out engine, I'd buy some CHEAP dino 20w-50 engine oil, do an oil change with it, and just keep on truckin' until it quits completely. Back in the days of the indestructible 350, I've run engines like this for hundreds of THOUSANDS of miles before they finally quit. Might not have had the most power they were designed to have, but they ran and got the job done.

Spark is good, but CORRECTLY TIMED & STRONG spark is what you need. You'll also need compression, or else everything else is for naught. What is an "injector control module" ? You mean the ECM? Or the whole "spider" injection assembly? Why replace anything fuel-related if you're smelling fuel? Is the spider (or poppets if an updated unit) receiving the voltage to fire? Fuel pressure good? Pump providing correct volume? If not on the last 2 questions, are the powers / grounds good to the pump? If I had to guess on this one, I'd point to the spider assembly - they are notorious piles of garbage, and fail regularly. If it has never been changed, the updated units have individually-fired injectors on them with their own plugs, making testing a bit easier once inside.