Had common would it be to have a stretched timing chain on a very well maintained 350 TBI in my 95 silverado with about 67000 miles on it but a lot of it short trips. It had been running poorly for quite a while. Last fall I went thru the electrical system, wires, cap, module, plugs etc. That helped a little. Yesterday I decided to look some more and put my timing light on it. It was retarded quite a bit. Put it back to zero, reconnected timing wire, reset computer and it runs like a top now. I did have the intake redone years ago and yesterday when I went to move the distributor it didn't take much to loosen clamp and turn it like maybe the mechanic had not tightened right. I got it locked down good now. I'm wondering if it moved over time or my chain is stretched a little. Quess i'll have to pull the cap sometime and rock the crankshaft back and forth to check it. Is that the best way to check the chain?
I already repaced it with a slightly larger #14 wood screw with the black oxide coating. Looks like a factory screw. I bought 4 and will replaced the other 3 next flter change so they all match.
Probably what I'll do also. Yeah its just a few miles shy of 11,000. I'll have it 5 years next week. Driving it a little more since I retired last year. I got a 95 silverado with not quite 70,000 miles on it I bought new also.
Anyone ever have one of these strip out? I think it was stripped from the factory. I've tightened screws in plastic like it many times. Never even tried to tighten up. I was using a nut runner by hand. Other three were fine. First time its been messed with. Truck only has 11,000 miles on it. Anyone here try going with a little bigger one of the same type screw? Or just replace the whole assembly. I put a machine screw with a nut under it for now but I'm not going to leave it like that. Guess I'm too picky.
Have a 95 K1500 TBI 5.7 auto trans. Only has about 67000 miles on it. When I start up my steep driveway it likes to stumble, fall on its face. Got to checking and it seems to be the EGR valve causing it. As soon as it gets warmed up some it goes into operation like its supposed to so temp sensor and solenoid are working right. I replaced EGR valve about 8 years ago with the newer part number GM valve. If I unplug it it doesn't stumble. I checked solenoid output with gauge. It's getting vacuum at very little throttle but I thing its supposed to. I know its works with the vacuum and exhaust pressure together. Read that sometimes they just get weak and open too easy. Also read that if you don't have enough exhaust back pressure it can cause it not to work right. I had exhaust system from behind converter back replaced about a year ago and thats when it seems to get worse. Its just a single exhaust but the muffler he put on it has a little rumble to it like a high flow one if that makes any sense. Are the EGR valves on these old TBI trucks that touchy. Thought about just replacing the EGR valve but I hate just throwing parts at something. Any opinions or answers would be appreciated.
I ended up going with a Delco. Stepped up to the 94RPG (Professional Gold 800 Amp 42 month replacement). It listed for 199.41. I got it for 150.00 plus taxes (164.39 total). No Costco around here. O'reilly's wanted 222.00 plus tax for a 800 amp battery. Autozone 222.00 plus tax for a 850 amp AGM. Both with 3 year warranty. I've had good luck with the Delcos. Glad I went ahead and swapped it out.
About as long as I ever had on a original one. I always step up to a better Delco when I replace. Usually get at least 5 years out of them. On my old 95 I could always tell when it was getting weak by the way it cranked over. On this one it starts so easy it's hard to tell. I'm going to check with my buddy at the dealership and see what kind of deal he will give me on a new Delco. I might go ahead and change it. If not, this fall @ 5 years for sure.
Figured it out. I should have recognized it. Came off the underside of hood on my garden tractor. I have that hood up every time I get done mowing to blow it off. I thought it came off my truck for sure. I knew it had a vent on back of cab. Should have looked around more before I bothered you guys. Thanks for the replies .
That's the one I'm looking at. I may go with this seller because its shipped from US and I can use my paypal. They are all made in china. http://www.ebay.com/itm/EL-50448-TPMS-Tire-Pressure-Monitor-Sensor-Auto-Activation-Tool-OEC-T5-System/162415702960?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D7bea01f5e6d2442bb038fccd6c1cdd08%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D390831541471
Thanks guys. Yeah, I may stay away from my impact on the GMC. May just let the dealer keep doing. Going to have to get the relearn tool also if I want to do it myself. Looked at the wife's Cherokee. You don't have to do anything to the TPMS on it when you rotate tires. Years ago I would have never took it to a dealer for something that simple.
Helped my son rotate tires on his 2013 Silverado the other day. My impact socket wasn't deep enough to fit right. Got to looking at my 20" GMC wheels also. Need a socket with enough depth where the nut fits in so I don't damage the chrome cover on lug nuts. Looks like some deep sockets don't have enough depth where it fits onto lug nut. Any particular brand that works the best. What do you guys with the 20" chrome wheels use?
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