steelerdude15

You can also try spraying a iron remover on the area after you washed it. That also will get rid of built up junk. It smells awful though.

This is a little off topic, but when I bought my truck a couple of years ago, the salesmen told me they do credit checks on people who want to take Corvettes out on test drives to make sure they’re serious about buying one. Maybe they want to make sure you’re serious about ordering the truck.

The K2s tell you if it’s in V8 mode or V4 mode on certain pages in the DIC. Do the T1s do this as well regardless if the truck has AFM or DFM? If so, that’s another way to find out if it’s enabled.

This has happened to other people too. Start checking the grounds and making sure there all clean and tight. I know the one behind the passenger wheel well is one a lot of people check first.

Yeah, I believe once the fluid temp reaches 100F or 104F, it starts to burn the moisture off. I could be wrong though. On a side note, I’m a cold weather person, but I don’t know if I could handle -24F.

Here’s a good question for anyone who has the original thermostat still installed in their truck, but flipped. While driving in colder outside temps, has anyone suffered any type of damage to their transmission due to the pill flip of the original equipment. I’m still running my truck this way. Outside temps could be anywhere from the upper 20s to the upper 40s. The temp readout will show the fluid is in the 30s or 40s when the truck is started. By the time I get to my destination using back roads, I’m at 104 F. If I use the highway or am in stop and go traffic, I hit 132 F. My truck upshifts and downshifts fine unless it has to deal with second gear which it’s always been that way. The fluid in the pan and filter were changed when the pill was flipped at 30,000 miles. 7,000 miles later, everything is still fine. I also plan on doing the 15,000 mile three quart change some have done here and plan on using Amsoil in the future as well. I know there could be moisture not burning off if the fluid doesn’t get to a certain temp. Just curious to see if anyone has had any troubles because it doesn’t seem like it so far, but I could always be wrong.

Does the new camera fit into the housing just like the old one does? If you can’t tell that it’s been changed, I would definitely consider this.

Is the ticking noise a slow rhythmic noise? If so, that is a solenoid that is doing it’s job and that’s the noise it makes. Mine does it and I’ve also heard it on a 2017 with almost 100,000 miles. Both transmissions are the 6L80 and neither transmission have had any repairs done to them. It’s nothing to worry about.

That’s stupid. I feel like if you buy a vehicle with this option, that should be the only time you have to pay for it.

Originally Ford was going to call it the Mach 1, but a lot of the Mustang faithful complained enough and they changed it to Mach E.

Thanks. I think the only thing they do is the sniffer test and just look to see if your check engine light is on.

Thanks @CamGTP. The reason why I asked is because I will have to start getting emissions testing done once my truck turns 7 years old. I live in Delaware. Right now, I run it in L5 all the time and I planned on turning cylinder deactivation off via a tune once my powertrain warranty expired, but I guess we’ll see because I don’t want my truck to fail inspection.

@CamGTPI have a question for you. How much of a difference emissions wise does it make when you run in V8 mode the whole time as opposed to running around with cylinder deactivation on?

With our trucks, an issue can develop where it feels like the truck is chugging or “fish biting.” A transmission fluid and filter change can help take care of the issue. There is a TSB on the issue.

One more question for you. Does it act like this only when the truck is cold or at any time?