Try tpmsdirect.com. I bought a set in the spring for a 2008 Audi A6 and they had OEM supplier sensors at a great price. Here's a link to the '07 GMC Sierra options including a set of four for $105. The owner was great at answering questions over the phone and confirming fitment. https://www.tpmsdirect.com/GMC_Sierra_TPMS_s/509.htm
The brakes on fullsize GM trucks last a long time which is great with one downside: you don't regularly service the components since you aren't changing out pads very often. Here's a picture of my rear caliper guide pins showing the factory lube is mostly gone and what remains is hard and worthless. I pulled these today to clean and lube with correct caliper guide pin grease (used Permatex green brake lube). When swapping my front setup to a PowerStop z36 kit yesterday, one of the front guide pins was rusted near the head and had no grease remaining. That was likely an issue with the guide pin boot letting in moisture combined with no lube so all were replaced with the new boots from the PowerStop kit. It takes about 30 mins to maintain the guide pins per axle and inspect the boots and I recommend doing it at least every couple of years if you aren't changing brakes. This resolved my rear squeak issue.
People underestimate the importance of the right tires for the usage situation. Winter tires aren't just for snow. They are made with rubber compounds that remain more pliable at cold temps. All seasons do a reasonable job across a range but don't expect them to perform well in anything more than a dusting or extremely cold temps. Wider tires also perform worse than narrower tires in snow. I put winter tires on an AWD Audi and it drives like a tank in heavy snow and significantly out performs my 4WD Yukon with all season tires.
Oil pressure sensor locations from Alldata for my 2011 Yukon, 5.3L. Both are at the rear of the engine and the filter screen sits inside the hole under the pressure sensor. For those running frequent oil changes, you may consider sending off your oil for analysis (Blackstone Labs, etc.). Other than an 800 mile break-in change, I run 15,000 mile OCI with Mobil1 EP and Mobil1 filters. I've never had an issue, don't consume any oil between changes, and the oil tests fine. Current odo is 124,000 miles. The only repair in 8 years was a warranty seal replacement on my midshaft differential.
Did anyone ever resolve this? I have a creaking noise from the drivers rear brakes when applying the pedal. It happens while parked and is consistent with pedal application. I doubt it's pad related since the creak occurs when the vehicle isn't moving. The GM repair guide does not note anything about caliper guide pins requiring lube and pistons are lubricated with the brake fluid. I'm interested to hear if others with the creak found a fix.
2011 Yukon, 5.3L with 106,000 miles. I noticed my A/C compressor is cycling on and off every 6 seconds with a loud click. I know it's normal function to cycle but what is considered normal cycle timing? If the cycling is too frequent, any advice on troubleshooting would be helpful. It's been a little tough to check the cabin air output temps in cold weather but I haven't noticed anything abnormal on warmer days. I need to pick up a gauge to check high and low pressures to confirm the system hasn't leaked refrigerant but assuming that's ok, what else should be checked?
Thanks for the link to the swivel socket. I've seen standard flex sockets but they are as reliable as a u-joint socket adapters which don't hold up under heavy torque. I'll give this a try as I can't any combination to work on the bottom bolt and the crowfoot doesn't sufficiently grip without rounding the head.
I need to remove the downpipe bolts on my '11 Yukon to get the cat pipe out of the way for a tranny fluid change. Aside from the typical frozen bolts which I've encountered on a previous truck, any advice on how to get a socket on them for removal? I hit them with penetrating oil this morning and tried to access each bolt head with combinations of extensions. The cats block the bolt heads so any advice from those who have done this would be appreciated. I considered a crowfoot wrench but will need to pick up a set if that's the best route.
I'm planning 100k service on my 2011 Yukon including changing the transmission filter and fluid, drain only - no flush. For those that have done this on a 6L80 trans, how much fluid will be required? I know it's not the full capacity since some will remain in the unit and cooler lines.
I'm troubleshooting a "service 4wd" dash message and want to make sure I'm identifying the front diff components correctly. The replacement 4wd actuator part looks different than what I'm seeing on the diff so I assume it fully inserts where shown on the picture and there is a cover that bolts to the top and makes the final connection to the wire harness. Did I label and identify the parts correctly in the pic? This is a 2011 GMC Yukon SLT.
My power drivers seat on my 2011 Yukon is malfunctioning and I'm hoping for some help to troubleshoot. The motor is not available as a replacement part and the dealer only sells the entire seat rail for +$600. The motor will operate but is sluggish and stops after a few seconds of operation. The switch clicks regardless of the motor moving. The worm gear doesn't appear to be bound and moves when the motor operates. After recently moving the seat to the full forward position, the motor completely stopped working requiring manual movement of the seat to get it back to normal driving position. The power seat will work but slows and eventually stops even with the switch engaged. I shot a quick video to capture the grinding noise: This was taken from the floor looking under the seat with the worm gear on the left in the video frame. Any advice is appreciated.
I purchased AC Delco OE pads and rotors for my front brakes last week from Amazon for about $180 shipped. You can get the part numbers off the Delco website for your truck. They are the identical OE equipment that came on your truck for much less than dealer cost. The boxes had GM part cross references and the rotors were identical to my factory equipment including Bosch stamps. I particularly liked the anti rattle clip design and adhesive backing on the pads which make them squeek free without the need for any anti squeek spray or paste. Note, Genuine OE Delco are the top tier with Professional and Advantage lower price aftermarket options.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 170 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,556 Guests (See full list)
- PRO GEM
- John Moore
- Andy Chabot
- Jake Man
- @[email protected]
- Nick Jacobs
- Kris and Dave Hammerbacher
- Sin City Trail Boss
- Booger T
- Mission creek
- Its blas
- Buddy A
- DESERT DOG
- Mike Barber
- CNC Repairman
- Chris Callanan
- Byron Reagan