To clarify, the "creaking" noise from the original post is not from the pads or rotors as it happens while parked and depressing the brake pedal. Brake squeal when applying the brakes to stop or slow down is a result of the pads vibrating which does not necessarily indicate the brakes aren't working correctly. If your brakes are in good working order and you get squealing when applying, it's either due to the material (harder pad composites), product design (no or inadequate backing material on the pads), or shims (caliper surface not properly cleaned and lubricated when installed).
All heater hoses and connections are dry. I did notice that the engine mount directly above the stained area on the steering rack also has the same dried residue so any fluid leaking appears to be coming from directly above the mount. I can't see anything above the mount due to the exhaust manifold and shields.
I did check the A/C drain and it's very unlikely to be the cause. The tube is located far enough away and I couldn't see a way for condensate to work it's way over to this area of the steering rack. Another thought after posting is the heater core or heater lines since those are at the firewall. I'll inspect those today.
2011 GMC Yukon 5.3L, 135k miles. I have a mysterious, intermittent leak that I can't trace and am looking for some help. I first noticed some dried, brownish dust on the garage floor which looked like a dried fluid. It was powdery and didn't leave a residue. This happened twice over the summer. While changing the oil, I noticed similar colored residue on the steering rack and adjacent transmission cooler lines (see pic.) The picture shows the rack near the boot on the passenger side of the truck. I can't see any fluid or residue above the rack. I checked the head gasket and the front half is dry; I could only see the front half due to the exhaust manifold blocking the view from above and I couldn't get a mirror on the back portion. Some other notes: I'm not losing any coolant. The level is constant in the reservoir I've had a strange popping noise at cruising speed for the past year that has been elusive. It doesn't vary with RPM and is random. It sound like something flapping under the track. It may be unrelated but I'm noting in the event it's exhaust related or something that could happen with a manifold or head gasket issue. The truck seems to be a bit louder than usual at highway speeds under hard acceleration Any help is appreciated.
Try tpmsdirect.com. I bought a set in the spring for a 2008 Audi A6 and they had OEM supplier sensors at a great price. Here's a link to the '07 GMC Sierra options including a set of four for $105. The owner was great at answering questions over the phone and confirming fitment. https://www.tpmsdirect.com/GMC_Sierra_TPMS_s/509.htm
The brakes on fullsize GM trucks last a long time which is great with one downside: you don't regularly service the components since you aren't changing out pads very often. Here's a picture of my rear caliper guide pins showing the factory lube is mostly gone and what remains is hard and worthless. I pulled these today to clean and lube with correct caliper guide pin grease (used Permatex green brake lube). When swapping my front setup to a PowerStop z36 kit yesterday, one of the front guide pins was rusted near the head and had no grease remaining. That was likely an issue with the guide pin boot letting in moisture combined with no lube so all were replaced with the new boots from the PowerStop kit. It takes about 30 mins to maintain the guide pins per axle and inspect the boots and I recommend doing it at least every couple of years if you aren't changing brakes. This resolved my rear squeak issue.
People underestimate the importance of the right tires for the usage situation. Winter tires aren't just for snow. They are made with rubber compounds that remain more pliable at cold temps. All seasons do a reasonable job across a range but don't expect them to perform well in anything more than a dusting or extremely cold temps. Wider tires also perform worse than narrower tires in snow. I put winter tires on an AWD Audi and it drives like a tank in heavy snow and significantly out performs my 4WD Yukon with all season tires.
Oil pressure sensor locations from Alldata for my 2011 Yukon, 5.3L. Both are at the rear of the engine and the filter screen sits inside the hole under the pressure sensor. For those running frequent oil changes, you may consider sending off your oil for analysis (Blackstone Labs, etc.). Other than an 800 mile break-in change, I run 15,000 mile OCI with Mobil1 EP and Mobil1 filters. I've never had an issue, don't consume any oil between changes, and the oil tests fine. Current odo is 124,000 miles. The only repair in 8 years was a warranty seal replacement on my midshaft differential.
Did anyone ever resolve this? I have a creaking noise from the drivers rear brakes when applying the pedal. It happens while parked and is consistent with pedal application. I doubt it's pad related since the creak occurs when the vehicle isn't moving. The GM repair guide does not note anything about caliper guide pins requiring lube and pistons are lubricated with the brake fluid. I'm interested to hear if others with the creak found a fix.
2011 Yukon, 5.3L with 106,000 miles. I noticed my A/C compressor is cycling on and off every 6 seconds with a loud click. I know it's normal function to cycle but what is considered normal cycle timing? If the cycling is too frequent, any advice on troubleshooting would be helpful. It's been a little tough to check the cabin air output temps in cold weather but I haven't noticed anything abnormal on warmer days. I need to pick up a gauge to check high and low pressures to confirm the system hasn't leaked refrigerant but assuming that's ok, what else should be checked?
Thanks for the link to the swivel socket. I've seen standard flex sockets but they are as reliable as a u-joint socket adapters which don't hold up under heavy torque. I'll give this a try as I can't any combination to work on the bottom bolt and the crowfoot doesn't sufficiently grip without rounding the head.
I need to remove the downpipe bolts on my '11 Yukon to get the cat pipe out of the way for a tranny fluid change. Aside from the typical frozen bolts which I've encountered on a previous truck, any advice on how to get a socket on them for removal? I hit them with penetrating oil this morning and tried to access each bolt head with combinations of extensions. The cats block the bolt heads so any advice from those who have done this would be appreciated. I considered a crowfoot wrench but will need to pick up a set if that's the best route.
I'm planning 100k service on my 2011 Yukon including changing the transmission filter and fluid, drain only - no flush. For those that have done this on a 6L80 trans, how much fluid will be required? I know it's not the full capacity since some will remain in the unit and cooler lines.
I'm troubleshooting a "service 4wd" dash message and want to make sure I'm identifying the front diff components correctly. The replacement 4wd actuator part looks different than what I'm seeing on the diff so I assume it fully inserts where shown on the picture and there is a cover that bolts to the top and makes the final connection to the wire harness. Did I label and identify the parts correctly in the pic? This is a 2011 GMC Yukon SLT.
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