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About sierra5454

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  1. Looks like the housing is cracked. I was able to see the crack after putting the new drain plug in. I drained the fluid, cleaned it with brake parts cleaner and sanded the area around the crack. I put on some JB weld and holding out hope that this will seal it. It looks like a new housing is about $250 on rockauto.com. ACDELCO 19302452 GM Original Equipment . Any idea what I'm looking at to get this fixed?
  2. Would it require the high temp or high performance? www.permatex.com/product-category/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/
  3. Owner's manual does call for Dex VI. I'll have do take another look, but there wasn't any obvious fluid leaking down from above the plug. This is on a 2012 sierra.
  4. It looks like I am dripping transmission fluid from the transfers case at the drain plug. I ordered a new plug and will drain and refill with new Dextron VI. When I install the new drain plug, should I coat the outer threads with black permatex? Will this make it very difficult to remove the plug should I need to in the future? Thanks,
  5. I posted similar question in "ask the Technician" but wanted to expand on it here. I need to replace to engine oil cooler lines on a 2012 Sierra 5.3 4x4. I just had the trans cooler lines replaced and the mechanic said the oil lines were leaking. Well, now I'm starting to leave oil spots on the driveway. It looks like I would either need to remove the front differential or motor mount in order to get the lines out/in. There are a few videos on youtube that make removing the drive's side motor mount look like the easiest option. Some people have raised the motor by jacking it up by the oil pan or the driver's side exhaust. I would think that the exhaust would be the best option. Anyone know the toque spec on the 2 bolts to the oil cooler engine mount? Also, do I need to use anything with the provided gasket ie permatex? Dealer quoted me at $1100 for this. The lines were $100 and I can't see paying $1000 for something that shouldn't be too difficult. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  6. Have 2012 GMC Sierra 5.3 .replacing oil cooler lines .Does anybody know the torque spec on the two bolts on block? I've been searching for a video link to this. Not sure If I'll need to drop the axle. Also, do I need to use anything besides the included gasket to seal it at the block? ie, any type of permatex. Thanks,
  7. I have been way too complacent with checking oil levels. The engine was replaced in Feb 2016. Since this time I have had to replace the #1 spark plug due to fouling probably about 1.5 years ago. Since this time is has been running fine and no other codes have been thrown. I'm not sure if it's already too late for the AFM delete. Also, I'm not too familiar with this option but will look into it further. The engine is not ticking or knocking. Not sure how to tell otherwise about the lifters/cam. Any recommendations on AFM delete programs or should I wait and see how fast it's losing oi? Thanks for the input.
  8. Check engine light came on today. Ran codes and low oil pressure code came up. Was low on oil and added about 3 quarts. Low oil level warning never came on. Now at home and not sure what else i need to look into as causes. Last oil change was almost 5k ago. Has 120k miles but new engine installed about 40k miles ago due to #3 cam bearing spun in bore and began working itself out. Now seems to be running fine and oil pressure is now holding at just below 40. Seems like a lot of oil to lose since last oil change about 4800 miles ago. Hoping that this new engine isnt getting ready to die on me.
  9. I have 2012 GMC Sierra 5.3. Had to have new engine installed under warranty about 1.5 years ago. 2 days ago it started running rough at idle and eventually threw the cylinder 1 misfire code. I swapped plugs 1-3 and misfire went to cylinder 3 with the plug. The plug from cylinder 1 was fouled and oil'd up. After replacing the plug last night. The rough idle and code has stayed away. I also cleared all codes with a scan tool. My question is... am I looking ahead for something bad. What would cause all that oil on the plug. I drove it for about 2 days with the misfire. The replacement engine only has about 25k on it. Plug on left is from #3 right was #1.
  10. I had to leave my truck in a parking 2 nights ago after these error codes with SES and oil light came on. Engine was running rough and had reduced power. Had it towed to dealer who is now telling me it needs a new ECM at almost $800. They said it was showing 9 codes but didn't mention which ones. The engine was replaced on this truck about 8 months ago due to low oil pressure, I believe the cam was damaged. I told them to go ahead and fix it but wondered if anyone had thoughts if this sounded right. This is on a 2012 5.3 GMC Sierra just over 80k miles, just over 5k on new engine. Thanks.
  11. I may have figured it out. I have been trying to fix the odometer and indicator lights which stopped working years ago before I try to sell the truck. The odometer and indicator lights came on if I only partially connected the cluster to the electrical connector behind it. I think that this partial connection is what caused the DRL to remain on and only provided periodic resolution to the odometer and gear indicator lights. Tonight I removed the cluster again disassembled it and bent back the odometer display to access the end pin on the underside to heat it up to re-wet the solder. After putting it all back together, the odometer and gear indicator lights work. I replaced the 10A fuse for the DRL and they did not turn on. Hopefully this helps it sell. But with over 270,000 miles, not sure what I'll get for it.
  12. Noticed today that the DRL on my 1999 Sierra will not turn off. DRL remain on even with engine off. I pulled the 10 amp fuse under the hood to turn them off. Not sure why the lights would not turn off. Possibly a bad ground? Not sure where to start looking. Thank you for any suggestions.
  13. I could be mistaken, but I thought that you needed to barely push down on the parking brake while in park to override the auto headlights.
  14. We purchased a Munire Newport 4-1 crib a few years ago on Craigslist that did not come with the full size conversion kit. It's an older style and difficult to find the conversion kit online. I am wondering if it would be possible to simply build the conversion kit myself. Does anyone know if I could simply buy the hardware at local hardware store and what type and size of boards I would need for the frame and slats?
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