Wheels are SOLD
I have for sale a set of Raceline Surge wheels that have been freshly coated in PVD Black Chrome. Since I have gotten them back they have not been mounted, and are brand new in the box. I am including a set (4) lightly used 78.1 to 106.1 aluminum hub centric rings to be used in mounting these wheels to your GM full size SUV/Truck. Brand new Raceline Surge center caps are included, the center caps are plastic and black in color, I have wrapped them with some Black Chrome vinyl and they match the wheels pretty nicely (see pics of the wheels on my truck). To not cause confusion I did previously have these wheels on my '15 Yukon XL, they were later removed and sent to Wheel Creations PVD to be stripped and re-coated in PVD Black Chrome. Since I have received them back they have remained in the boxes, unmounted since being finished in PVD Black Chrome. So they are brand new and unmounted as they sit right now. I really like these wheels; They're a simple 6-spoke concave design. As you can see they cleared my Wilwood big brake kit, they will clear the factory GM Brembo front brake upgrade and the +15mm offset makes them flush to the fender with a factory alignment. The only reason I am selling is because I have decided to go up to a 24" wheel. I removed the wheels from the boxes for these pictures and they are repackaged and ready for shipment. I have shipped many sets of wheels before and have added pictures of their packaging. Each wheel is double boxed, a foam lining placed on each face of the wheel, and then the entire wheel is placed into a plastic bag to keep the foam rim face protector in place before being double boxed. Wheel Brand & Model: Raceline Surge 156B Diameter: 22" Width: 9.5" Bolt Pattern: 6x139.7 Offset: +15mm Hub Bore: 106.1 PVD Black Chrome Coating performed by Wheel Creations PVD https://www.wheelcreationspvd.com/ Included in the Sale: (4) Brand New PVD Black Chrome Wheels (4) Lightly used Motorsport Tech 78.1 to 106.1 Aluminum Hub Centric Rings (4) Brand New Center Caps - Vinyl Wrapped in Black Chrome Vinyl I know I will not recoup my cost into these wheels but I will share the figures for reference: Raceline Surge 22"x9.5" wheels = $900 +/- Brand New PVD Black Chrome Coating = $1,200 Motorsport Tech Hubcentric rings = $125 Total = $2,225 +/- I am asking $1,650 OBO plus shipping and PayPal fees. I'm located in Dayton, OH and willing to meet up within reasonable distance with anyone local as well. I'm posting a lot of pictures with close up detail and different angles so you can see the quality of the finish and how different angles and amounts of light affect how the PVD Black Chrome looks. The entire wheel face, back side, and wheel barrel is completely coated in PVD Black Chrome.
I would definitely do it again. I think upgrading the factory HID bulbs on the Denali's is the best "bang for your buck" headlight upgrade you can do. It's a relatively easy and non-invasive upgrade, simply remove and reinstall low beam bulbs. There a plenty of nice options from OSRAM and Phillips for HID D3S bulbs that offer more lumens, better color, and more light output. Upgrading the headlights further from here would involve a headlight retrofit and that is significantly more costly and time consuming.
Sorry for the double post. I thought my previous post was just an edit. (Is there no "Preview Post" option before submitting a post?). Personally I own a ‘15 Yukon XL Denali and decided to just upgrade the factory HID D3S bulbs to OSRAM CBI's. OEM stock HID on the right (passenger side) and OSRAM CBI D3S bulb on the left (drivers side). The OSRAM CBI offers a color closer to 5000K more white without decreasing light output. In fact I think they are brighter. This is plug and play as all you have to do is swap the OEM D3S low beam bulbs out for these. Again these are HID’s and since your Denali already has factory HID system all you need is a whiter bulb. I feel they are brighter and the color matches the LED DRL strip and my LED fogs nicely. It’s hard to capture headlight photos and color comparisons from in front of the headlight. They never represent the true color in real life. I would be cautious about purchasing OSRAM bulbs from Amazon or eBay. There have been some counterfeits sold through Amazon, which is represented in the significant price difference of Amazon compared to other legit retrofit headlight sites. I picked mine up from HID Concept because they had the best coupon code at the time, but also check The Retrofit Source or Lightwerkz. you should be able to find better deals around the Holidays; Independence Day, Memorial Day, Black Friday, etc. and get about 15-20% off.
That's because in a lot of ways converting from HID to LED is a downgrade. Is it doable? Sure I suppose. How far back in the headlight wiring system do you plan to replace? The factory lighting has an OSRAM D3S HID ballast in-line. There aren’t many LED bulb options in the D1S, D2S, or D3S size variant. This is because converting from HID to LED is not a conversion many people are interested in doing. Quick search shows there are some LED to HID “kits” available; some apparently just plug into an HID ballast while others somehow bypass the HID ballast? Or don’t use it? The thought of popping in an LED Bulb into a HID projector powered by an HID ballast or some sort of HID ballast LED Driver bypass “kit” just does not seem like a great solution nor a reliable one. To be honest swapping from HID to LED in our GM trucks isn’t going to really solve your problem with light output either. The problem isn’t really the type of bulb, sure some can offer slight improvements, but the major issue is the GM bulb projector itself. The pics below are not my vehicle, they were pulled from the GMfullsize.com forum. Although, this vehicle is a 2015 GMC Sierra, knowing GM, I’m confident that the type of projector is very similar to the ones in our Yukon’s. Sure there are probably some slight differences between the Yukon SLT Halogen projectors and the Denali HID projectors, but knowing GM I also wouldn’t be surprised if the only difference was the bulb socket. I only say this because of the clarity and still obvious projector cut-off Yukon SLT (and Tahoe owners with halogen projectors) are achieving by just swapping from factory halogen bulbs to LED or HID into their factory halogen projectors. The light pattern and cut-off typically remains the same just brighter. Definitely an improvement over stock, but only addresses part of the issue. Let me show you what I mean... For all intensive purposes the pics from this 2015 GMC Sierra will show what I’m referring to. Here is a photo comparison when the factory halogen bulbs in this 2015 GMC Sierra were upgraded to HID bulbs: Sure the light is brighter, but look at the light output and beam pattern closely. See how there is a dark spot right in the middle of the light output and beam pattern and other random dark spots. Those same dark spots are there with the halogen bulb and the HID bulb. Swapping from an HID to an LED will be no different in your ‘18 Denali. Because the headlight projector and lens omitting the light output has remained the same. Now this photo shows going from an HID bulb in the factory projector to the same style (35W 5000K) HID bulb into a Lexus RX350 projector retrofit: Dramatically different isn’t it? No more dark spots, the light output is consistent and the same brightness is throughout the entire beam pattern. They’re both Morimoto 35W 5000K HID bulbs, the difference is the projector not the bulb. Sure there is an upgrade in light output going from halogen to HID or LED. I don’t think swapping bulbs from HID to LED, and vice versa for that matter, in our GM factory projector headlights is going to make that much of a difference. You want to fix the light output change the projector and do a retrofit. Sure it’s a lot more involved and more expensive. But it’s clear from these images the weak point of our headlights is the GM factory projector in our headlights, regardless of what bulb you use.
I didn't take any before pics but here are a few pics of mine: 2015 GMC Yukon XL Denali lowered on Norcal Goodies: Belltech front drop spindles, Norcal Rear 1-4.5 Adjustable kit with Endlink/Bumpstop option and Rear Free Travel Mod Truck is sitting right at 34-1/4" Front Ground to Fender Lip and 34-7/8" Rear Ground To Fender Lip on 285/45/22's. Just a little over 1/2" rake. Very pleased with how everything turned out.
I have a '15 Yukon XL Denali and I've lowered mine just slightly 1.5" Front/2.75" Rear with this kit here: https://tbssowners.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=609 Retains magnetic ride control and rides exactly like stock, with a bit less lean in turns due to lower center of gravity. Kit is super complete with instructions and everything you need.
WHEELS ARE SOLD!
I purchased the wheels brand new from a Giovanna Wheel shop and have since chosen to go with a different set of wheels. Unfortunately the wheel shop I purchased from does not accept returns, so I am listing the wheels for sale. Wheels are brand new and unmounted, I only unboxed (1) wheel for picture purposes only, then it was repackaged with all the original manufacturer's packaging. Wheel Details: Giovanna Dramuno 6 Machine Black Finish Size: 24" x 10" Offset: +30 mm Bolt Pattern: 6 x 139.7 Center Bore: 78.1 mm Fitment: 2007+ Yukon/Yukon XL, Escalade, Tahoe, Suburban, Sierra 1500, Silverado, Avalanche, Wheels will ship double boxed and with all original manufacturer's packaging just as received from Giovanna. Asking Price is $1,750 OBO shipped to the continental U.S. Prefer Payment via PayPal I'm located in Dayton, OH and would be willing to meet up within a reasonable distance. Plastic Protective Cover still on Center Caps: One of the deepest concave style wheels available; About 3" Deep Concave from rim lip down to center cap: Repackaged with Original Manufacturer's Plastic Lip Protector: Some "Stock" Images:
Nice looking truck. What kind of lights did you put behind the grill? LED light bar? I really like how from the first pic you can't even see that there are lights somewhere behind there when they're off. Nice work!
Dr. Colorchip offers some really nice DIY paint chip repair kits. I’ve used them numerous times with great results. https://www.drcolorchip.com/
Yeah I would definitely steer away from the grills with the mesh. The mesh would make it very difficult to clean behind. I like the one one in the last pic if it was available without mesh. It seems to fit and complement the lines of the front end the best, but that’s all just opinion...
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