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About Service1956

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  1. I have a 2011 Chevy Avalanche. Did a complete front brake job on my truck. Rotors and ceramic pads. When driving, brakes performs well. No problems on the road. The problem I have is that when I pull into the garage, I have to bring it in slow the last couple of feet because of my motorcycle directly in front of the truck. When I do this, I let the truck move ahead slowly while still having pressure on the brake pedal. This is when I hear a loud grunting noise on the drivers side only. Rechecked drivers side and found nothing. Did brake jobs before, and this is the first problem I ever had! Does anyone know what would cause this, or what to check for?
  2. Cold temps here in Michigan. They are the P type tires. My first thought would be that the tires are not the problem, being that they are only 2 years old, and the best rated light duty truck tire at the time. Beginning to think that maybe the rubber compound is turning harder.
  3. The best way to describe the problem, is that the truck rides as if the tires are overly inflated. Or as if it has low profile tires with little side walls. You can feel road imperfections much more now within the last 6 months or so. Two years ago I put 4 new Michelin LTX Defender tires on it and all was good. As of now, no excessive bounce. Tires wearing evenly. No excessive body roll on turns. Tracks straight when letting go of steering wheel at highway speed. Front end does not dive down with hard braking. Cannot figure out what is causing this.
  4. Just wondering if you could eliminate the screen filter without having other problems?
  5. I need to install new brakes on my 2011 avalanche. The one's I am looking at are the Wagner OEX 1363 Ceramic front pads. A local discount parts store "OReillys" wants $73.99 for 2 wheels. However, if I order from Rock Auto online the price is $26.79 for the same product! Has anyone had experience from this company? The price seems almost too good to be true!
  6. First off, I feel that not only me, but others that have read all of the rants on how the 5.3 AFM engines have been incorrectly labeled as being mechanically prone to failure has been over blown. Sure, I do realize that they were not the most trouble free engines out there. People must consider the fact that all manufacturers have their own set of problems. When mechanical engineers put their knowledge to work, they do so in ways that in theory will work according to what they know. When a design is studied, researched, and changed several times does the team approve of making it's way to the final phase of it's actual development. For the most part, the problem of 5.3 AFM engines using oil have been primarily with the 2007-2008 model years. The updated lifters I think arrived around 2010. The low tension piston rings were a design to save fuel by reducing friction and came with an added bonus of a longer lasting cylinder bore. The thinner oils such as the 5W-30 that these engines use, and the 0W-20 that my wife's 2015 malibu uses, have the same design factor.... by saving fuel. Both my 2011 Avalanche, and my wife's malibu both use "some" oil. Never had to add between changes. So what's the big deal if an engine uses a little oil? I think the best a person can do is eliminate the 6000-7000 mile synthetic oil changes that some do because they believe that synthetic oil last longer than the petroleum based products. The problem is, is that letting it go that long contributes to the problem of too many hydrocarbons building up in the crankcase and mixing with the oil therefore contaminating the oil in reducing lubrication and speeding engine wear. I could be wrong, but that's my theory. I really don't think these engines were that bad according to what some say. In the future............we will be faced with a new set of problems regardless of who the manufacturers are.
  7. No oil consumption on my 2011 Avalanche. Been using the Range device shortly after getting my truck. Has anyone heard if any of the 2013-2015 GM 5.3 engines of having oil consumption issues?
  8. Figure I will need new tires by this fall. The tire pressure monitor sensors have been on my Avalanche sense 2011. I think it would be smart to have them replaced along with the new tires. Most major tire stores sell aftermarket sensors. Should I go with what they sell? Or go with the genuine GM factory part?
  9. One area that I am not that familiar with is air conditioning. I have a 2011 Avalanche with 5.3. Outside temp is 84 degrees with 62% humidity. With controls set at recirculating air and blower on high, I drive around for 15 minutes and the lowest temp I get out the vent is 50 degrees. Both condenser/radiator vans are working, and condenser is not at all dirty. I am comparing it to my wife's 2015 Malibu that has a 41 degree air flow out the vents. Does 50 degrees sound a little high for a truck?
  10. I would like to change out my stock front DLR's, turn signal, and side marker lamps on both sides to L.E.D's. My only concern would be the voltage increase at highway speeds. As far as I can tell from the voltage gauge on the truck that reads around 14.7volts. Never had an original bulb burn out yet. Would there be a problem with the L.E.D's handling that much voltage on long highway trips? My truck is a 2011 Avalanche.
  11. I would not give any dealership the leverage to possibly void a warranty. Several years ago, if someone wanted to turn off A.F.M on a truck, and needed warranty service work, they then turned A.F.M back on and the dealer would more than likely not find a "History Code". To do that now, means that the dealers are more aware of what goes on , and are more likely of finding that information. Having said that, they now have proof that the vehicle was computer altered! Will that void the warranty?
  12. Hey sometimes things like that happen. You did about what most would do. However, if you run into this same problem, start at the power terminal of the part at fault. In your case the actuator. If you have power there, then you know it "is" the actuator. If not, then take voltage reading from that point back to the 12v source.
  13. It sounds to me that the key may be at fault. If that is the case, then go to a GM dealer with your V.I.N. and they can make a key off that info. Make sure to have just a copy made without the security chip. Try it in the ignition just to see if it turns without trouble. If it does, then you can have another made that will start the vehicle. In the mean time, the first one you can keep in your wallet as a spare to gain entry into your truck!
  14. If we win this lawsuit, it could possibly mean that everyone affected may be entitled to a new dash. The only way this could happen is if the courts find in our favor by declaring the situation dangerous in the event of the passenger side airbag being activated. Much like the Tanaka airbag lawsuit. I think GM customers that have this problem thought of a way to bring it about to lawyers in thinking that we have a fair chance at winning. If this does happen, it could cause GM to suffer yet another big problem "Recall". If it comes this far, it will likely mean that GM will have to start producing replacements that will be made to standards as to not crack in the future! This also means that the original replacements in warehouse storage can no longer be used. As of now, my dash is not cracked. If it was, I think I would hold off until this lawsuit runs it course of outcome. I feel the next best alternative would possibly be looking into a solution such as this: www.TXDashcovers.com
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