Everything posted by Service1956
I have a 2011 Chevy Avalanche. Did a complete front brake job on my truck. Rotors and ceramic pads. When driving, brakes performs well. No problems on the road. The problem I have is that when I pull into the garage, I have to bring it in slow the last couple of feet because of my motorcycle directly in front of the truck. When I do this, I let the truck move ahead slowly while still having pressure on the brake pedal. This is when I hear a loud grunting noise on the drivers side only. Rechecked drivers side and found nothing. Did brake jobs before, and this is the first problem I ever had!
Cold temps here in Michigan. They are the P type tires. My first thought would be that the tires are not the problem, being that they are only 2 years old, and the best rated light duty truck tire at the time. Beginning to think that maybe the rubber compound is turning harder.
The best way to describe the problem, is that the truck rides as if the tires are overly inflated. Or as if it has low profile tires with little side walls. You can feel road imperfections much more now within the last 6 months or so. Two years ago I put 4 new Michelin LTX Defender tires on it and all was good. As of now, no excessive bounce. Tires wearing evenly. No excessive body roll on turns. Tracks straight when letting go of steering wheel at highway speed. Front end does not dive down with hard braking. Cannot figure out what is causing this.
I need to install new brakes on my 2011 avalanche. The one's I am looking at are the Wagner OEX 1363 Ceramic front pads. A local discount parts store "OReillys" wants $73.99 for 2 wheels. However, if I order from Rock Auto online the price is $26.79 for the same product! Has anyone had experience from this company? The price seems almost too good to be true!
First off, I feel that not only me, but others that have read all of the rants on how the 5.3 AFM engines have been incorrectly labeled as being mechanically prone to failure has been over blown. Sure, I do realize that they were not the most trouble free engines out there. People must consider the fact that all manufacturers have their own set of problems. When mechanical engineers put their knowledge to work, they do so in ways that in theory will work according to what they know. When a design is studied, researched, and changed several times does the team approve of making it's
No oil consumption on my 2011 Avalanche. Been using the Range device shortly after getting my truck. Has anyone heard if any of the 2013-2015 GM 5.3 engines of having oil consumption issues?
Figure I will need new tires by this fall. The tire pressure monitor sensors have been on my Avalanche sense 2011. I think it would be smart to have them replaced along with the new tires. Most major tire stores sell aftermarket sensors. Should I go with what they sell? Or go with the genuine GM factory part?
One area that I am not that familiar with is air conditioning. I have a 2011 Avalanche with 5.3. Outside temp is 84 degrees with 62% humidity. With controls set at recirculating air and blower on high, I drive around for 15 minutes and the lowest temp I get out the vent is 50 degrees. Both condenser/radiator vans are working, and condenser is not at all dirty. I am comparing it to my wife's 2015 Malibu that has a 41 degree air flow out the vents. Does 50 degrees sound a little high for a truck?
I would like to change out my stock front DLR's, turn signal, and side marker lamps on both sides to L.E.D's. My only concern would be the voltage increase at highway speeds. As far as I can tell from the voltage gauge on the truck that reads around 14.7volts. Never had an original bulb burn out yet. Would there be a problem with the L.E.D's handling that much voltage on long highway trips? My truck is a 2011 Avalanche.
I would not give any dealership the leverage to possibly void a warranty. Several years ago, if someone wanted to turn off A.F.M on a truck, and needed warranty service work, they then turned A.F.M back on and the dealer would more than likely not find a "History Code". To do that now, means that the dealers are more aware of what goes on , and are more likely of finding that information. Having said that, they now have proof that the vehicle was computer altered! Will that void the warranty?
Hey sometimes things like that happen. You did about what most would do. However, if you run into this same problem, start at the power terminal of the part at fault. In your case the actuator. If you have power there, then you know it "is" the actuator. If not, then take voltage reading from that point back to the 12v source.
It sounds to me that the key may be at fault. If that is the case, then go to a GM dealer with your V.I.N. and they can make a key off that info. Make sure to have just a copy made without the security chip. Try it in the ignition just to see if it turns without trouble. If it does, then you can have another made that will start the vehicle. In the mean time, the first one you can keep in your wallet as a spare to gain entry into your truck!
If we win this lawsuit, it could possibly mean that everyone affected may be entitled to a new dash. The only way this could happen is if the courts find in our favor by declaring the situation dangerous in the event of the passenger side airbag being activated. Much like the Tanaka airbag lawsuit. I think GM customers that have this problem thought of a way to bring it about to lawyers in thinking that we have a fair chance at winning. If this does happen, it could cause GM to suffer yet another big problem "Recall". If it comes this far, it will likely mean that GM will have to start produci
I did some reading a couple years ago on different GM Truck forums about this problem. And after doing so, I came to the conclusion that most of the problems were from forum members that lived in the southern states. I don't think cold winter weather is a factor, but rather the hotter climate relating to direct sun exposure. However, for someone that lives in the cooler northern climate, could very well experience this same problem by say, driving to work in the summertime exposed to direct sunlight 8-10 hours a day in the parking lot. That and 100+ degree temps inside the vehicle just makes t
A good way of doing it! I assume it was easier & quicked then under and dropping the tank. I remember a while back reading posts where people that owned Suburbans, Tahoes, and Avalanches would do it themselves but, do it another way. That by going inside the truck via the drivers side rear second row seating. They would peel back the carpet and cut out a section of floorboard to access the top of the tank. Do the work and weld the cut section back and reinstall the carpet. Just saying. And NO........I am not recommending that!! I would never do that on my truck!!
It's been a while since my last post. I am back just to say that when I had my last oil change from the dealer, the service manager told me that next time, bring it back when the oil life monitor is at 25-30% I asked him why? He did not go into a lot of detail but, basically said that this way the oil still has some "life" to it and won't be as dirty. Better for the engine he adds! Go figure. Sounds to me that they are thinking having the oil changed sooner will help illiminate the oil consumption issues.
Wife wants a new Malibu. The only thing that concerns me, is the start/stop that this car has. The only thing I cannot help to think about, is the idea of having to replace the starter in it more often then normal! That, and the small battery that powers the electrical items during a stop (engine shut down). It would also seem like the main battery would have a shorter life as well. Any comments from people that possibly would know more about this system?
On my 2011 Avalanche, the original factory wipers worked excellent until a couple of weeks ago. Went and got replacements from NAPA. The guy I talked to said that they were the quality of factory replacements. Installed them, and the were just as bad if not worse than the old ones! Does anyone know the OEM brand and style for this year of truck? If there is something better, let me know. What did you guy's buy for replacements?
When driving in Auto 4wd on hard wer or dry roads, I notice no difference going straight, or into turns. It performs the same as if it was in 2wd. Are there mechanical components "Ingaged" that will wear over time when driving in this type of condition?
Today in my driveway, I turned my truck off, got out and shut the door with the keys in the ignition. ( 2011 Avalanche) I was only going to be less than a minute to return. Anyway, as soon as I shut the door, walked away and about 5 seconds later the horn chirped!! Went back and all the doors were locked!! As anyone heard of such a situation?
Could someone pass on some information about a new vehicle. My wife is looking at a 2014 Chevy Equinox. Want to know how these have been in the past. Good, or not so good? I am mostly concerned about the 2.4 DOHC engine. It has been years since she has had a car with a 4 cylinder engine, and it was not a good experience! How does the 2.4 stand up in the new Equinox?
O.K. Here is the information you people want to see. In Google Search, punch in..... Document ID: 3242444. It is the first topic on the list. (PDF# 100601008G EngineOil Consumption on Aluminum Block/Iron Block). It will give you 8 pages of detailed information that mechanics need to properly service this problem. Including Build Prior dates to inform you that it may be possible that some 2011 already have the updated parts! Now on the first page, under "Condition", last sentence reads: It is no longer necessary to have the customer return multiple times to have the usage verified. I ca
Who's Online 70 Members, 2 Anonymous, 3,084 Guests (See full list)
- 2500hd Guy
- Almost Retired
- Miami B03
- Mack Mason
- Rob DiRienzo
- Brandon Faber
- Marco Miranda
- CT Chevy Connoisseur
- 2500 Gasser
- Alan Juden
- Fahad Safdar
- Timothy Casebolt
- Eugene Walsworth
- Tim Kelsey
- Roger P