Bruin19

Bendix FleetMetlock rotors and pads. Made in USA. I can confirm Bendix semi metallic pads stop very well.

Try Ozone gas treatment.

I just installed it and it fits. Its best to have a dealership do it as there is a specific battery disconnection procedure to follow. If not followed you will need a new telematics module. There are electrical connectors which are tricky to disconnect. If you know the tricks its easy. To fit the H8 into the tray you have to remove the spacer and its one bolt to remove. My telematics module is already broken and a mechanic showed me the tricks to disconnect the electrical connectors. There were 4 specific connectors. 2 were red tab connectors Pull back red tab than press down on center black square than pull. Comes out easy if done right. 2 connectors on top of battery taken out easily with emergency key trick. It wasnt easy until I was shown. Dont force. Easy to break.

This is where Im at right now....truck is 2 years old purchased new. Miles 64205 Engine hours 2350 Average speed 27 mph So its 100% a work truck which cant go down and get stuck in shops. Thus my concern in these matters. I do 3000 mile oil changes, do engine flush, etc. Recently just 6000 miles ago I switched to 5W30.

I would not do a 7500 mile oil change. Keep it at no more than 4000 miles. Why? Varnishing. If you do greater than 4000 the interior parts of the engine will get varnished a golden color. The color of those parts when new is silver/grey. If you look at the dipstick what is the color at the tip? Silver or golden? The varnish can eventually fall out and turn to sludge. Every failed lifter problem seems to have golden lifters pulled out. 0W20 is to help GM meet CAFE fuel economy goals. 5W30 is not only thicker but a tougher more durable oil. 5W30 is specified for other applications of the 5.3/6.2. I believe its 5W30 for the Camaro. 5W30 was also in earlier years of the 5.3 like pre-2015. Ive had it in my truck driven all over the tri state every day for 6000 miles. No issue. Look into an engine flush like Liqui Moly Engine flush. I have done 2 such engine flushes on the 5.3 since new. Keep the engine clean. The engine flush takes about 15 minutes done before the oil is changed. This will also help get rid of varnish. I used 2.5 cans for my flush.

I have done all the research on this topic I possibly can do. The plugs on this truck can go to 75000 miles and the air filter doesnt need a lot of changing. The oil should be changed every 3000 miles for severe service. As for oil viscosity this engine has a problem with leaks and oil burning as well as lifters. You need to use 5W30.

Hi all, I have a business and need my trucks to run. I strongly believe its a good idea to run 5W30 versus 0W20 in this engine. I run the cheapest Dexos/API SP 5W30 I can find and change it every 3000 miles. I see some off topic commentary going on. Im not going to join that because Im simply too busy over here. The bottomline is my trucks need to run. Probably the best idea is to run a high mileage 5W30 as all engines leak as you add milss. So might as well use HM oil sooner than later.

Sorry I do not have time to participate in a group. I saw the word "BITOG" or Bob Is The Oil Guy website. That website is and always has been a revenue/income generating website for its owner. It has many sponosors and the website obviously leans towards its sponsors. So there is someone out there or a small group which makes their income off of this site and those running it are very sensitive as to what gets posted. I even believe many of the aliases are simply "staff members" with multiple accounts controlling the Narrative. At one point they had a guy with a Durango who did a 25000 mile oil change with a sponsors product. Thus anything on that website needs to be taken with a grain of salt. I would not post on that site because I would be an unpaid content provider helping someone make their income from behind a desk.

A lot of people have issues with the 2021+ 5.3 burning oil...there are videos on Youtube, posts in forums and everyone I know who has one has this issue. One fact is in order for oil to burn it must get past the pistons and into the combustion chamber. How or why its getting past the pistons we dont know but it is. Thus going thicker is a no brainer solution. If you go thicker it will be harder for the oil to get into the chamber.

2023, 5.3 liter, 58398 miles on car, 2137 hours on engine. High use work truck. Started noticing around 50000 but my buddies told me before it happened to me their trucks were getting the low oil light message. Since its a work truck I always change at 3000 miles so I probably simply didnt notice it. My buddies have higher intervals. I once had a 2016 Suburban and it had some issues but burning oil was not one of them. I think this is something isolated to current generation models. Im not sure if all this stuff Im doing will.work but had to try something...

My change to 5W30 was strictly in the name of oil consumption aka oil burning. Oil sneaks around the rings into the oil chamber where its burned...not good! So I figure going thicker will make it harder for it to get in there.

I was tricked into believing that the truck only runs good on 0W20 and that maybe even engine codes might pop if I did it different. Than the engine started burning oil around 50k miles. I asked my buddies and their trucks burning it too. Go to the dealer and they tell you its normal but on my last run I added 3 quarts over 3k miles. Doesnt seem normal. So yeah probably need even thicker in a hot climate. I wonder what the dealers in Arizona and Texas fill the trucks with? 0W20??? This Youtube guy looks like he is in a warm area and doing some off roading...and he keeps loading it up with 0W20 wondering whats up...

One final technical note based on my Googleing. 0W vs 5W oils...0W will flow better in cold climates like during a Canadian winter. 5W oils tends to be a little thicker, more resistant to shear/dilution and heat. The 5W oils are better for severe service whereas the 0W is for cold sub zero climates While the 0W and 5W ratings are refering to their flow in cold climates the two oils are built differently. The end result is a 5W30 is best for most climates and 0W30 should only be used for something like a Canadian or Montana style winter where you know starting the car will be difficult.

Before changing to 5W30 oil I did an engine flush with Liqui Moly Engine Flush. Used 2.5 cans per the instructions and ran for 15 minutes. This is the maximum strength using the instructions on the can. I changed it out with 5W30 oil and also added Liqui Moly Motor Oil saver which basically helps with the seals. So far no issues. I did not see any difference between the 0W20 and 5W30. The engine seemed to take it well.