Well it was time for a change after 3x K2 trucks & had an ‘07 Silverado a while back too. I pulled the trigger on a new leftover ‘19 Raptor SCREW black on black/grey interior has dual pane sunroof/beadlock wheels/Navi/sliding window/trailer control system/led bed lighting & a few other features. Stickered for $65.8 got it for $59.5 + til & had em throw in a tonneau cover as well. Needs nothing else but some tints & I’ll be transferring my swingcase toolbox over to it. there is no question in my mind it is worth the $8000 premium over the ‘18 6.2 Denali ultimate I worked locally to a price of $51.8 in fact it’s worth the entire premium even if I paid MSRP- it’s AMAZING how capable, fast, quiet, comfortable, sporty, badass, & luxurious it is all at the same time. only thing I’ll miss about my GMC is the exhaust note. FWIW- I drove the ‘19 Ram in top trim w/ hemi (nicest interior/softest ride/slowest & also have me the most worry what could break- didn’t like the quirky dial shift or air ride) - Cummins- that was sneakily my #2 fav I test drove, but too much $$$ & too much truck for me- honestly it felt like a damn Mack truck lol, but the power was insane & the thing feels massive & nearly as nice interior as the 1/2 ton Ram. The regular F150 I had no interest in, but the F250 diesel was kinda “best bang for the buck” as you could get a fairly loaded up one for $55-60k whereas a Cummins or duramax is $10k more. the Raptor is amazing. Period. They can be had for under MSRP but you really need to search out the right dealer & truck to work a deal. There will be more deals to be had I think as they’ve sorta screwed themselves when the new one came out dealer’s were taking as many allocations as they could get, loading then to the gills w/ options then asking over MSRP & getting it!! Then people started to get wise to this & the brand new gotta have factory softened, some people decided they’d just custom order their truck sit on their hands & wait for delivery optioning it out as they liked easily coming in under $60k At the same time folks who bought ‘16-‘17-‘18s & overpaid we’re putting their lightly used trucks back into the market @ still quite high prices some getting $60k+ on private party sale or even trade. They hold value like crazy. Now the new ‘19 has even crazier shocks that “learn” driving situations & react accordingly - something like magnaride but much more advanced/beefy. Between the use market, the custom builds, & the over production of way heavily optioned out expensive versions I think the market for these has finally leveled out to sanity. GM ticked me off a number of times throughout my ownership - most stuff was covered under warranty but it started to get old w/ all of em having similar issues & the truck getting dated a bit. After my experience w/ the early new gen K2s I was all set being test mule for a 2019. Oh- and put the god damn steering wheel in the center position for F’s sake!!!!! Realized how ridiculous that is after test driving all these other trucks. i can’t fully describe how awesome the raptor is, I was never a “truck guy”- I’m a gear head have a Z06 vette & have always had & lusted after sport sedans as DDs but enjoyed the practicality/size/4WD of trucks- I looked at them as “tools” more than anything, that’s changed now. I’ve been kinda bummed I couldn’t take my son out in the “loud car” as he calls my Z since I can’t put a car seat in it & he’s really interested in it, had even been contemplating trading it for a challenger hellcat, not anymore. The Raptor is the first truck I’ve driven (& ive driven the previous 6.3 one- not the same) where it actually feels like a sports car @ the same time as a truck. The magnesium paddle shifters & recaros drive that point home. While I intend to keep it stock for a while- it’s already very quick- it’s nice to have a vehicle where a tune alone could net crazy power vs. usual route of exhaust/headers/intake/cam/tune. Good luck to everyone w/ their GM trucks it’s been a great active informative forum community. I still have a fondness for GM smallblocks & am excited to see what the next C8 vette will Be like. FWIW last night I watched a YouTube vid comparing raptor & the new Ram/Chevy off-road 1/2 tons. The Chevy (2019- forget the exact model name, trail boss?) did admirably/surprisingly well- much more of a true off-road version than my stock ‘15 all terrain was. The Ram didn’t fair as well.
Well I got confirmation my truck is indeed a total loss. Local GMC dealer in my town just went under new ownership. despite having bought 3 trucks from the same place years past they simply aren't offering good deals in comparison to what I've found farther away. That Laura GMC really has some great deals. I don't want to pay more than $47k for a 6.2 4x4 CC premium plus SLT or $50k for a Denali similarly equipped.
crushNchowda replied to crushNchowda's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraNot worried just curious - mostly trying to get the best deal - sooooo, a brand new 2018 leftover w/ a Fabtech level, 33" nitto terra grapplers on black 20" fuel wheels, a corsa exhaust, SLT premium plus w/ a maggie for $54k is a ridiculous deal I totaled my truck need to replace it don't wanna waste much time but want to get the best deal possible. No matter what, SC or not, I'd be leveling it, putting on 33"s (I already have 33" snow tire setup w/ factory 20"s so that works out) & putting on an exhaust - that would all be $3000 in and of itself to begin with. Dealers in my area are not discounting enough IMO, this is a Laura GMC deal - of course I would have to fly out there & ship it, so that's a PITA in a way too, but still - the pricing is just way lower. I don't think it would get only 10 mpg though w/ the AFM still in there - if I'm getting on it sure, but otherwise no. I want a 6.2 CC w/ 20" wheels either SLT premium plus or Denali - Denali would cost me additional $$$ aside from the higher sticker I would IMMEDIATELY drop the magnaride shocks add the delete kit (like $450) & add either Bilstein 5100s or Eibacks which would be another $500-$750 installed. I guess I do save on the bed liner.
crushNchowda posted a topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraLong story short, my truck was totaled last week, got confirmation today. Have been looking around & found a great deal on a leftover 2018 6.2 premium plus w/ a magnason supercharger installed. Seems like they've retained the the stock cam/valvetrain will still go into AFM mode, magnason warranties the engine/transmission above & beyond GM in case something isn't covered. They're telling me the rest of the drivetrain components would still be covered under the factory comprehensive warranty (which seems nuts) - like axles, driveshaft, diffs What kind of gas mileage would I expect to see w/ a setup like this? The truck is also leveled 2.5" & on 33"s, my truck was leveled similarly I was averaging 16.5 mpg overall. I am 1100 miles away from the dealer so can't just go there & check it out myself, I wouldn't be worried about much if it wasn't supercharged since I'm already familiar w/ the platform having 3 of these trucks in the past including the one that just got totaled.
crushNchowda replied to hutch08's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraI think this is a good example of why leveling/adjustable shocks like bilstein 5100 & eibachs kit are superior to the cheap puck style level kits. i have run the bilsteins @ full height + 2.25” (+1”) rear blocks & 275/60R20s for 50k miles & while I do have the slightest rub @ full lock on sway bar- there is no contact whatsoever w/ the A-arms. This was the case when I ran 275/65R20 as well (I went down in size due to weight not b/c they didn’t fit) i didnt look at the multitude of other posts but you can clearly tell the A-arms are put @ altered angles from the ball joints. this is a pretty clear cut example- I may have totaled my ‘15 if I get another I’m running the same setup. granted the OP is running a wider tire also- spacers may alleviate the situation? I still think the A-arms look like they’re gonna chew up your ball joints tho
Correct- that’s the ticket. ‘15 truck that originally stickered for $57-58k, other than recent damage in great shape- as a parts vehicle it’s worth $7-12k, if their adjuster assessed damage conservatively in the $12-$15k range & the KBB value is in the $27-32k range that gap gets pretty damn close & they know once they do their valuation & you bring it to your own shop for a 2nd quote and/or they start tearing into it the actual repair costs could easily put them over what it would’ve cost them to just call it a loss cut the check & get whatever value possible from salvage auction. Should find out today/tomorrow- but either way pretty sure my regular body shop guy can “make it totaled” if it seems like that’s the right thing to do.
So I hit a deer doing 70 last night thing jumped now over barriers from the median strip separating I-95 north/south traveling in left lane. Hit it straight on majority damage is to passenger front end but also scraped up the drivers side fender b/c I had no shoulder either side & was blinded by all the airbags going off (blocked windows + the dust completely blinded me)- considering al the bags went off & there’s damage to front bumper/doors/hood/grill 2 lights etc I think they’ll call it total loss - my body shop buddy agrees. already reached out to local dealer for pricing on leftover ‘18”s - my truck was an all terrain SLT premium plus 4x4 w/ 6.2 so trying to replace w/ something comparable for the cheapest price possible. What sucks is I paid it off recently & just put new brakes on 10k miles ago + had the diff/tranny fluid swapped. Part of me hopes it’s not totaled, just cuz I don’t wanna deal w/ the hassle of haggling On a new one, having to put cash down, & knowing I already have $$$ into it in terms of mods/maintenance- but I have a 3.5 year old son & am concerned about taking back a truck that had all the airbags deploy. i checked Laura gmc already def great pricing in general on ‘18s seems trucks in the mid-upper $50s/low $60s can be bad for $10-$15k off sticker right off the bat. dont like that I’m losin our on warranty coverage. I checked out a diesel ‘18 Sierra too- I probably would go that route if they were discounting them similarly but that’s not the case....I’m sure the 6.0 HDs are deeply discounted though. im going to look @ Ram & Ford also- the only fords that interest me are the Raptor or an F259 diesel, no idea what kind of deals are out on those. im all set w/ a ‘19 GM product- let someone else be the guinea pig. The tundra is hust too old & crappy. need to check out the Rams. what kind of deals are people hearing on the 2018s? Similar to what I found? the other thing is I had a 2014 Sierra AT same as what I just totaled that I totaled 4 years ago in nearly same exact scenario except I wasn’t on Hwy was on backroads managed to avoid the deer but nailed a telephone pole in the process....and before that had a 2014 for 5k Miles I swapped out due to having wrong gearing- long story short if I get an ‘18 New right now & keep it 5 years it’d be like I had the same vehicle essentially for 11-12 years lol
AFM delete - I thought you meant actually getting rid of that crap hardware & replacing entirely new lifters/valves/springs/rockers/pushrods/cam - in which case you should probably start by speaking w/ a performance shop specializing in GM vehicles like Livernois Motorsports for instance. There are off the shelf "DOD/AFM Delete kits" out there w/ everything you'd need. My '15 Sierra 6.2 has already dropped a couple lifters & needed replacement + fuel rail for some reason. Didn't wipe my cam out b/c I noticed it well ahead of time. Since I have a '15 w/ 100k warranty I'd let them go & replace 'em again since I'm @ 61k miles....but if I start having issues again & I'm out of warranty or close to it if the rest of the truck is holding up fine (which seems to be the case) then I'll swap mine out too - knock a few birds out w/ a single stone. Get rid of the AFM, improve the longevity of the engine w/ some preventative maintenance of wear parts, increased performance/power, better sound. I do think tuning it off permanently helps w/ lognevity - you're asking the dod lifters to do less work & I also feel like there could be increased chance of carbon buildup on those as well if you're the type to set cruise control for long distances & live in a relatively flat state if you know what I mean. For real world reference on my G8 GT I had it tuned out along w/ complete custom tranny/engine tune then ended up yanking the AFM stuff entirely but it did last 90k while being turned off, meanwhile my '15 Sierra that is bone stock w/ "upgraded" latest & greatest GM AFM technology couldn't hit 40k before dropping/sticking valves....take that FWIW Lastly...if it were my $$$ I Wouldn't waste it on a range device, I'd pay a little more & get a handheld tuner OR better yet a more customized mail order tune from someplace like Black Bear OR even better a truly custom dyno tune by a reputable local shop. They can always flash back to stock should you have an issue....& to be honest for the most part the issues you're going to have w/ drivetrain on these trucks seem to concern the AFM hardware more than anything......only warranty items I'd be concerned w/ would be the torque converter....which I'm on the fence as to whether its really the culprit in the shifting issues...but I'd happily swap it out for a higher stall heavier duty aftermarket unit & also the driveshaft, which if you decide to run @ drag strip or tune out governor & routinely run the truck up over 100mph then I would consider replacing it or anticipating an issue
not all lugs are created equal - had some black ones on my Z06 to match my powdercoated wheels & they started chipping almost immediately, & depending where they're made could be cheap grade steel - while not apples to apples I've had chinese knock off sockets split in 1/2 under stress.....not good. I have a set of Mcgard black lugs on both my truck & my vette & they're noticeably better quality than what you'd get at your typical auto parts stores - guaranteed not to chip/rust & can be used w/ impact gun. While i hand torque my vette lugs myself & use a wrench coated in electrical tape (I can be OCD) - my truck gets whatever treatment my local mechanic gives it probably use impact guns & drop the nuts occasionally etc. + I run them on my winter wheel setup so they see alot of road salt/sand & still holding up well. Mcgard made in the US too which is a plus - Dorman & Gorilla I think are also decent quality
I had hankook snows on my rear drive G8 GT & then blizzaks - I think the blizzaks performed better. Right now on my '15 6.2 4x4 Sierra running General grabber arctic snows w/ studs installed 275/60R20 Once you go w/ snows you'll never go back - & if you're spending the $$ & don't have issues w/ state laws may as well go w/ the studs. I've waxed poetic on the superiority (significant superiority) of snows over "all seasons" or "AT" tires a number of times on this forum - to cut it short, essentially in 4WD HI & studded snows the truck is unstoppable & you can drive it as if there is essentially no snow or ice on the road. The studs really come into play on icy pavement or when you have scattered patches of ice/bare pavement/snow pack etc. I pass sand/salt plows in all out blizzard conditions doing 60 in 4wd w/o zero feeling of instability. Enjoy
google "sewing machine noise" on an GM LSx/LTx forum & you'll find more threads citing similar whether it be injectors, rockers, valves or intake noise or a combo of it all -but its not uncommon.....you did get the cheapest headers money can buy, your $$$ your choice - correct they'll def boost HP, but they're constructed of aluminized mild steel, not sure on the gauge but probably is thicker than most competitors made outta stainless b/c there's going to be oxidization/pitting occuring w/ the PS's & they need to hold up, I would've had them ceramic coated if it were me.... At any rate I also notice these trucks have more sound emitting from the lower driver's footwell area, I believe someone @ some point tracked it down to lack of heat shield/sound deadening material in a certain area near the steering column? Anyhow - ever since I added my Gibson exhaust I've had more sound coming in cabin engine & exhaust, I thought was exhaust leak initially but crawling underneath don't see any evidence of such & after coming across the thread I mention above chalked it up to that. The dealer couldn't locate any leaks either (not that that means much) I don't have headers, but I can imagine the sound from the engine bay would be MUCH louder since I can hear it now @ some throttle/rpm levels, headers magnify drivetrain/engine sounds for sure.
Not new anymore....but for my '15 Sierra 6.2 fav mods so far: 1. bilstein 5100s + ready lift 2.25" rear blocks, 2. Gibson dual exhaust, 3. Nitto Terra grapplers on granite alloy black 20"s, 4. advantage hard hat tri-fold cover, 5. undercover swing case storage box
??? Question was whether a custom real dyno tune and/or street tune was worth the cost over a handheld or canned tune, sharing my results on a GM vehicle w/ a DOD equipped small block V8 utilizing a GM made 6 speed tranny that is nearly identical to the one used initially in these trucks isn't "even remotely close"? Point is - the custom tunes are def better than the canned ones especially if you're dealing w/ an automatic tranny & DOD equipped vehicle.
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