Jump to content

aseibel

Member
  • Content Count

    1,733
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

aseibel last won the day on December 1 2019

aseibel had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

792 Excellent

About aseibel

  • Rank
    Senior Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

4,234 profile views
  1. Maybe its the people that think they need to tint the front window so they don't need sunglasses during the day. Then at night they can't see anything outside.
  2. plus the Airaid MIT sounds nice under throttle. I just wanted to get rid of the goofy baffled tube that GM thinks I want. The oem air box moves plenty of air.
  3. They're like the same price. The one he posted just seems expensive because its a huge 20" LT tire.
  4. The best advice is to make sure it doesn't have any shakes you don't like. Make sure you test drive it up to (your typical) freeway speed and don't feel any vibrations.
  5. Yep, use the supplied screws. Mine's been in for almost 5 years now, no issues. I love it.
  6. And my point is: showing them your brights aren't on doesn't help the next car after them who is also getting blinded. Please check your alignment. People just don't flash you for the fun of it. They are pissed because your lights are in their eyes. Your lights should be angled downhill by a couple inches over 25 feet. If they are straight horizontal, you will continue to get flashed. Proving to each driver that your low beams are poorly aligned only demonstrates that you are the problem.
  7. If an automobile driver is below the cutoff line of your head lights and you turn on the brights, it makes no difference. In the olden days there was a dimmer filament and a brighter one. Now, the light intensity is the same, but the top half of the "low" beams are just cut off. You aren't helping the situation at all. Most people aren't that stupid. If they are flashing you, it means you are blinding them. check your headlight alignment.
  8. nice job staging your photos in the exact same spot. Makes it easy to compare. I still think a little rake looks natural. I don't care for the "nose-high" look. And god forbid you ever haul anything in the bed afterword. Please, re-align your headlights if you change the angle of the truck.
  9. Thanks for the heads up! just ordered 3 bottles so I can do my truck and the wife's ride.
  10. getting new rubber of the same size with "highway" treads will help a little, but not a ton. If you are not changing the dimensions or weight of the tires you won't see much difference (less than 1 mpg) If you really want mpgs, you need a narrower, lighter tire. You should be able to go down to a 265, which is/was pretty standard width. Find out what the OEM tire size was on your truck and start there.
  11. Those are drastically different tire sizes you listed. Yes, you would notice a difference in performance between them. Are you looking at aftermarket tires or trying to compare OEM tires for each of the 3 different rims? The OEM tire options should all be pretty close in diameter, so I'm not sure where you found those tire sizes. maybe you should read this to understand how tire sizes are written: https://www.goodyearautoservice.com/en-US/tire-basics/tire-size
  12. If you are looking to get the maximum torque out of your truck, you can replace the OEM rubber with smaller O.D. tires. But as Maverick said, all of the OEM tire/wheel options should be within a fraction of an inch of each other.
  13. Maybe along the interstate. There's still lots of places with spotty or no 4G LTE service. They are all low population areas. But there are still plenty of places where you can't stream anything.
  14. like this? https://www.hardworkingtrucks.com/retro-big-10-chevy-option-offered-on-2018-silverado/
  15. Your math checks out, but hopefully average Joe put some money down when he bought the first truck and paid off the loan (or at least some of it) before trading in. I know there are people who trade-in with no equity and refinance their old loan into a new one. If someone has to drive a new truck so badly that they take on an additional $32k of debt every 3 years, that's on him. Then, don't forget to add in another $2,000 for new aftermarket wheels & tires on each new ride. (The only thing he has going for him is no maintenance costs, since he always is under warranty. I think for some people, that peace of mind justifies the high cost.) Your math is comparing the most frugal method possible (yours) against the stupidest possible thing a person can do with their money. Most of us lie somewhere in-between. For everybody on this forum asking how to spend their money on mods, there is another truck owner like my dad who's only mod is a camper cover and he keeps it until the wheels fall off. At the end of the day, we both agree that the fewer times you buy a vehicle, and longer time you keep each one running, the better off your bank account will be.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.