aseibel

Yeah if you drive around with the plow on for 4 months straight. It depends on usage. I didn't daily drive my truck because I have a work beater. The new plow mounts are also able to be installed/removed in about 1 minute. I took my plow off if there wasn't snow in the forecast, so I put very few miles on when I wasn't actively using it. If you plan to keep it on all winter because you get snow every other day, and drive the truck to work- this isn't a great idea. The front axle weight rating on mine is only 3950 lbs. Its not like you can carry a V-blade around. A proper sized half-ton plow only weighs around 400 lbs.

Plowing a personal driveway with that truck is no problem. I got a Western HTS which is fairly light. My truck handled it like a champ. I put Timbrens on the front to limit sag. I also threw a couple sandbags in the rear when plowing just to keep the truck level. I always took care to be gentle on the transmission, not hitting the gas until it was fully engaged. I used that setup for about 5 years, never hit snow I couldn't move with it in Wisconsin. I have no advice regarding the magneride, though. If you're serious about it, I recommend looking at the plow brands you can get serviced locally. I ultimately chose Western just because the receivers come off, so in summer you don't have any brackets hanging down below the air dam. I had mine trimmed around the brackets, so you would want to see how the front end of your truck will get butchered up to fit the truckside mount on there. If you have any other questions, hit me up. I researched the heck out of it before I pulled the trigger on mine.

Pulling a 3000 lb trailer with that truck on flat ground is nothing. You won't even feel it unless its an 8' tall enclosed trailer, then you are pushing a lot of air out of the way at freeway speed. That would be the only reason to gear down. A midsize SUV can pull 3000 lbs if its just a utility trailer.

I called the dealer in town, he quoted me $170 for just the part. I'm ordering one off Amazon for $53.

My 2015 1500 LT Crew cab won't open the rear passenger door from inside. The outside handle still works. The child safety lock is not on because the other side door can still open from inside. I tore the door apart to see if the cable came off or broke, but I can't see any issues with the cable. I can hear it moving in the latch assembly when I pull on it. Is there any chance the latch mechanism can be repaired, or do I just need a new one? From a quick online search for parts, I think a new latch assembly is about $110 from GM, or I can get a knock off for about half of that. I'm not excited about ripping the rest of the window track apart to get the latch out of there, so I want to have a plan (get new parts) before I'm left with a door that won't even stay closed.

I took penmanship classes in the late 80s. I was told we needed it to write checks. I probably write two dozen checks a year. The generation following me, most don't even have a checkbook. In my first drafting classes in the late 90s, I learned lettering. Now I do everything on a computer. I wish I could have traded my time spent leaning handwriting and instead spent more time learning how to type properly. I still don't type the correct way, I'm just fast enough to get by. Luckily my work is mostly done with the mouse. There's just no use in society for handwriting anymore, you can blame computers and smartphones for that. Just like everything else they killed from your childhood.

I have a unique situation. I work from home so I have no commute on days I spend on the computer. I drive to jobsites all over the state for inspections, so I get mileage reimbursed. I pay for my own fuel. So I've kept a "beater" to use for work trips and when I'm alone. Weekends and driving the kids around, I use the truck. My wife works a couple miles down the road. We chose a house that was close to her office. My Chrysler 200 v6 gets almost 30 mpg average, So I pocket difference between what I'm reimbursed and what the gas costs me. I usually only buy 1, at most two tanks of gas a month for the truck. This current market isn't going to change anything for me. Wasn't interested in EV's before, still not interested.

I remember where I was in 2008 when I filled up my '98 K1500 with a 30 gallon tank and learned that the pump shut off at $100.00.

its proportional. The sensor is displaying 1.225x the actual speed because the tires rotate 1.225x less than OEM. From middle school math 0 x 1.225 is still 0.

Gasoline and gas powered vehicles will continue to be available until after the capabilities/ availability/ price of EV's make them the most attractive option on the market. In 10-20-ish years I'm guessing we'll all be daily driving an EV, but still able to cruise in our ICE toys on the weekends.

The biggest thing you can do to help your fuel economy is to maintain the already highly tuned aerodynamics by NOT installing taller, wider, more aggressive tires. That is a common mod people do that only hurts your wind drag and rolling resistance. Put on some highway tires, maybe even skinnier than OEM. But nobody wants those on a truck. Any cheap bolt-on mod that claims to improve mileage is more likely to be snake oil. If I didn't like the sound my Airaid MIT tube makes I wouldn't have it installed. No noticeable difference in mileage.

same here. On Sunday we had 2" of heavy wet snow that made excellent snowmen. Today 3" of light fluffy stuff. I was happy to get out my Ariens with fresh gas and fresh oil. New toy this year for this kids is an arctic cat 120. Hoping to get that out this weekend. A few more nights in single digits and we'll be out ice skating on the pond. I think I enjoy winter more than most people! My wife says she'll be wintering down south when she retires. I'll say, "See you in the spring!"

Try turning back and forth at some speed. If you can hear it get louder when you turn one direction then you know which side to replace the hub on, the louder outside wheel. Or jack it up and grab top and bottom of tire and try to wiggle it. You'll feel if it is loose at all.

Christmas is coming up, you could ask Santa for a sweatshirt. one thing that might help you- I remember being discussed on here a lot for the K2's, just because the little yellow light is on next to the AC button does not mean its actually cooling the air. The compressor always turns on during remote start in order to dehumidify the air in the cabin in case your windows are foggy. Maybe your truck is working as designed between 50-59 degrees, but since the fan is blowing full speed when you get in, you assume the AC is on.

yeah. If you don't want remote start to blast the AC when its between 60-70 degrees, then why are you remote starting in those conditions? The point of remote starting is to let the engine warm up in the cold, or to turn on the AC when it is hot.