aseibel

maybe I'm an example of ignorance is bliss when it comes to power seats. But here's my thought. My couch doesn't have 10 way adjustment. My desk chair only has 4 manual adjustments. I spend more time sitting on my couch and my desk chair than in my truck. I don't know why I would need my padded truck seat to adjust any more than forward, back and recline. But I don't need lumbar support or anything special for my back. Maybe people at a certain age value that more than I do. At this point in my life I say keep the power adjust seat and give me a lower purchase price.

My dad said he spent 1700, base price was 1400, but an extra 300 for side windows that flip up. Its a LEER. He ordered it through the Ram dealer.

1% maybe. Don't let this forum fool you. Every single person with an issue posts online. The other 900,000 with no problems don't come running here to declare their truck is just fine. I would be patient with your dealer and let them run through all the possible fixes before you get too frustrated. They might be able to take care of it for you pretty easily. The tires and driveshaft are two things i would make sure they take a look at.

Around here, we get truck caps from Lakeland. http://www.lakelandtruckcaps.com/index.iml You can get a quote via e-mail just to compare to what you are seeing around you. My dad just got a brand new fiberglass one on is Ram. I'll ask him what he spent on it. When I bought my previous truck, it had a topper on it that I didn't want. I can't remember now, but I think they took $400 off the sale price to keep it and sell it themselves. (that truck was 8 years old when i got it) So they have some value in the re-sale market but not much. You'd be better off selling it privately if you ever get rid of the truck.

I would get the remote start and not think twice about a power seat. I'm pretty sure I haven't touched my seat controls in about 3 years. Unless - you frequently let other people drive your truck who are much different heights than you are? How often would you use each feature? That should tell you which option is more important.

Programming the truck to the key is easy. You just need a working key to do it yourself. The cutting is the expensive part. If you get a new key cut, just program it right away. Unless you are solely worried about your truck getting stolen with your hidden key, then I get it.

You can decide if you trust these sources, i'm just sharing. "If your car does not require premium gas, there are no added benefits to your car’s performance or longevity. Simply put, you’re paying good money for something you don’t need. Premium costs 15-30 cents more a gallon than regular. In a consumer notice, the Federal Trade Commission, notes: “In most cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner’s manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won’t make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner.” https://www.truecar.com/blog/2011/03/03/premium-vs-regular-gas/ "Designed for performance cars with large, powerful engines, premium also helps minimize the risk of preignition inside highly-stressed, hot engine cylinders. On a track, the extra boost given by premium can mean a few tenths of a second difference on a lap time. In the real world, it barely affects performance, or fuel economy." https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1077286_busted-7-things-that-wont-improve-your-gas-mileage

I don't fully understand. You want GM to cut you a deal on the repair because you needed to replace shocks at 54,000 miles? I know, any repair hurts the pocketbook and we can all agree that the labor rates dealers charge are insane. But as you stated, sh*t happens. To all makes and models. I hope you express your frustration to GM, as I would do if I felt the same way. But I don't think anything will come of it. I saw on JDPower awhile back that GMC initial quaility rating was lower than Chevy. Its funny because they are made with 99% the same parts. Shouldn't they get the same rating? Do you think the difference in customer satisfaction comes from the expectations of some GMC owners who believe (due to marketing) that they are getting some kind of premium product, instead of just a chevy with a different grill on the front? https://www.jdpower.com/Cars/Ratings/Quality/2018/Large-Light-Duty-Pickup

I would build a garage big enough for all your vehicles. Then you don't have to worry about if some fabric cover can keep the bird poop off. seriously, if you are driving it regularly, do you want to have to un-cover and re-cover it every time?

I can't believe 1 cm wider would cause any problems with clearance. But I'm curious to know why you think that extra 1 cm will help when towing?

It seems that you are already aware of how the size and ratios of different parts of your driveline affect things, but I just wanted to throw this out there: You currently have 3.42 gears and OEM 265/65/18 tires. If you changed to 3.08 gears and larger (taller) tires, then you could achieve higher ground speeds while keeping the driveshaft RPMS down to safer levels. Just a thought. Since this all hinges on what speed (RPM) the driveshaft explodes, I don't think you're going to get an exact number for that. Keeping the RPM's down is critical.

that is reason enough to get the CC. you won't regret having the additional space. I had to sell my old regular cab long box when the kids came. I still miss it. But when you have to haul 3 other people, the cab space is more valuable than an extra 2' of bed.

I just sold my OEM tires with 28,00 miles for $200. Yours have 12k miles, so about 3/4 of life left. If you are selling the full set with sensors ready to bolt-on, I think $1000 is a reasonable price. Your asking price depends on how fast you want them to move. I'd ask 1200 and let them negotiate a little.

Buy the coopers and don't look back. I'm a proud owner, also got the buy 3 get 1 free deal in november.

any bulb that fits a 921 can be used. I got some cheaper ones from Amazon. My 2015 taillights were not sealed, i don't know about 2016. No resistor was needed for me.