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aseibel last won the day on December 1 2019

aseibel had the most liked content!

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About aseibel

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  1. The jump seat does not have tie downs for LATCH. Why do you need a child in the center of the second row? Just make the big ones climb in back and strap child seat into the captain's chair.
  2. The lumber prices are stupid right now. At least Menards has some in stock. I tried to go buy a couple studs at Fleet Farm this weekend, not a single 2x4 left under 14' that shouldn't be turned into kindling. I'm glad we bought our house late in 2019. The same house this year would cost 50,000 more just in lumber. saw this, might help some of us out: https://www.roadandtrack.com/news/a34361957/kandn-air-filter-maker-face-mask/?utm_campaign=socialflowR%26T&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social-media&fbclid=IwAR0W58835YxYtuiTqMDqdwVUXk9g0UUiDXPkvIlpJZ_0_2TH5u6_vgZIX7w
  3. following to see what this group comes up with. I'm not much of a chef. But being from America's Dairyland, I've learned this:
  4. I used to follow this forum, there's 300 posts about adding a battery. If you expect a large power draw you should consider doing what the plow guys call "The Big 3". Which is upgrading the wiring for Engine ground, Battery ground, and power from alternator to battery. Maybe something in here will help you. I ran welding cables in parallel to add a second battery in my old truck, but no isolator so I'm not much help there. https://www.plowsite.com/threads/dual-battery-install-instructions-for-a-chevy.56715/ https://www.hardworkingtrucks.com/gm-1500-dual-battery-install/
  5. driving on snow/ice covered roads = put it in 4 HI, and operate everything else like normal. Why mess with manually shifting gears if the roads are actually dangerous? Just increase your stopping distance and use light braking pressure. Maybe buy some real winter tires instead of the garbage that GM gives you from the factory. using your transmission to slow you down instead of the brakes does not change the fact that you are relying the same rubber-to-ice interface to control the vehicle.
  6. Wonderful find! I think I know what's going on my Christmas list now. I just made a bunch of trips to Menards hauling lumber home, this would have come in handy.
  7. That said, now that you are aware of its flaws, you can make an informed decision. It seems that the consensus is the list price is too high for that truck. But every vehicle has a price. This is not my style, but you were drawn to it for some reason. If you want to negotiate with them, see if you can get it for a price that matches the current condition. Or see if they'll try to repair the roof or replace the bumper for you. no harm in taking to them if you like this one. At least its low mileage.
  8. I'd be terrified of a leak from either the sunroof or sharkfin with all that twisted steel up there. My truck is also a 2015 with low miles, and I wouldn't pay 34,000 for it today. Something is off here.
  9. Well, you could be right about the Sumo's being softer. But I still think you'd know when you hit them. It comes down to knowing how you plan to use the truck. I haul lumber and landscaping materials around, and I'm happy with my helper springs. My trailer is only rated for 3,000 lb for lawnmower, etc. so tongue weight has never been a problem for me. The newer trucks sag a lot less under load than the old generations. The springs are stiffer, and therefore a lot of people complain about the ride when unloaded already. There are a bout 17 million threads on here complaining about the shocks, but people forget the springs carry the weight. Sumo springs are designed to help by removing the load from the leaf pack and basically your frame is riding right on the axle with a chunk of rubber in between. Its not an improvement in ride quality.
  10. I can't speak for Sumo, but I had their competitor rear bumper springs from Timbren. I found that unless you are loaded to the point of riding on them, they are more annoying because unloaded you will occasionally hit them going over a bump and then its just obnoxious. The problem is that they shorten the free suspension travel, and then make contact. So if your trailer drops your axle enough to ride on the SUMO's then that would be a nice ride. But with only 1" of drop you would likely be banging off those bump stops every time you hit a dip in the road. Based on my experience, I would not recommend the NON-adjustable bump stop springs. Instead I would consider some manually adjustable air springs. But instead of either, I actually installed Hellweg helper springs on my ride. Similar to adding a leaf, but easier to install and they can be "adjusted" by tightening the u-bolts more for heavier load. And they are not noticeable when driving unloaded.
  11. 700# isn't that extreme for your truck. Could this be an easier solution? You said the coupler is "high mounted", can you reconfigure the coupler on the trailer to drop it down a couple inches? some are adjustable, or you could obtain some plates that bolt up to the existing tongue. Even having a custom shop re-weld it in a lower position might be easier, unless you really want the airbags and on-board compressor.
  12. The weight of your trailer is only half of the equation. A camaro on a flatbed is relatively easy to pull through the wind on the freeway compared to a travel trailer or cargo trailer of the same weight. You have much less wind drag, I wouldn't expect your truck to need to work that hard. But please post your results so we have some actual data.
  13. come on, this high quality chinese crap comes complete with two "hose claps" and everything. Looks fantastic.
  14. I thought long and hard about it before making my decision. I couldn't find any documentation (that I believed) that wasn't published by someone who makes their money selling parts. But I still bought and installed the Airaid MIT. I figured, heck, I like the sound, and if it gives me .1 better MPG, that's great. I can't say I feel any gains with my butt dyno. But I like that I can hear it when I go to pass someone on the 2 lane county road. I put a K&N intake on my old '98 K1500 and I swear with that & a flowmaster muffler I gained 1 whole MPG (with years of gas mileage calcs to back it up). That was a generation ago when trucks didn't roll off the factory line with every drop of fuel economy squeezed out of them. Can we really free up some HP by simply removing the restrictive air chamber? Maybe. Sound reduction is very important to the manufacturers, and the small increase in noise with a CAI is worth it to me. At the end of the day, do what makes you happy.
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