How far of a trip are we talking about? I've hauled more weight than my truck was designed for, (not current truck, but older one). If you aren't in heavy traffic and can can go slow for short distances, you're okay. My opinion is you can do whatever you want with your truck. But its a different story if you are causing a problem for other drivers. Tips: load weight as far forward as possible to put some load over front axle, make sure tires are fully inflated, or even a little over. once your axle reaches the bump stops, then you are relying on your tires for "suspension." As long as you are NOT over the tires' max load rating and not being a road hazard, you can make it happen. But if anything goes wrong, you're on your own. ha.
Due to your increased tire size, your truck now feels like it has 3.08 gears. Going back to OEM size tires would boost your truck back to feeling like 3.42. That would be the easiest thing you can do. But I suppose that is not an option for you?
aseibel replied to TXGREEK's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraIt is not a hinge. It is only a body panel mounting bracket, totally separate from the door. It has been verified that it is the same on all of the trucks, so there is some reason GM did this. So far, the radio antenna attachment is the only plausible reason.
I've had my truxedo LoPro on for 3 years and the foam strip that came with my cover had worked fine until this winter. Now its peeling off. I will have to do something this year to fix the seal. I may just replace the foam gasket, but I'm interested to see if there are any better ideas. I'm not opposed to a cap on that front edge of the box that sits at the same level as the OEM side rail covers.
are you sure that the wear is not coming from an alignment or air pressure issue? Have you modified your suspension at all? Are all 4 wearing equally, or just the outside edges on the front, for instance? I do think there are better all season tire options than BFG when you compare price to lifespan. I'm a big fan of the Cooper AT3's.
winter gas. Around here the summer stuff doesn't come back until May I believe. I net your fuel efficiency will jump by then, as will the price per gallon. https://newsroom.aaa.com/2013/06/what-is-the-difference-between-summer-and-winter-blend-gasoline/
So, out of the 4 things you want: 1/2 ton, 6.2 engine, 4 door cab, 8' box- you are not willing to give on any of them? That would be a rare truck. It would be about 29' long, so good luck parking it in your garage or any parking stall. Most people settle for either getting the family hauler with a short bed, or getting a work truck with long box. Its tough to find. I also wanted the 8' bed, but I'm getting along just fine without it. I have a trailer for when I need more hauling capacity. Good luck in your search. I would hate to see you in a f*rd.
keep the gas tank full to balance it out. But seriously, do you have any heavy tools/ gear in the truck or bed? I wouldn't worry about 3/4" difference. Unless it was nose high. So I would say you are in a good position.
I think your mileage calc method is reasonable. But keep in mind the DIC reading is only an estimate. Most people say the DIC reading is off by up to 1 mpg from hand calc, I find that it is usually within .5 mpg for me. You'd be more accurate to multiply your miles by 1.06 and then divide by gallons. Why not just update your speedo for the new tire size? some handheld tuners will do it, or your dealer could do it for you?
maybe my math is off, but here's my thoughts: going from oem tires, which I'm assuming are 31.5" to 33" is an increase of about 10% in circumference Going from 3.08 gear to 3.73 is a change of 21%, or more than double the difference. 3.42 gears with 33s would maintain roughly your same ground speed to axle speed as your OEM truck/tires. So if you want your truck to drive like a OEM one with 3.42, I guess you do need to switch to 3.73. haha, I hope no one could follow that logic.
I don't know if you really NEED 3.73 gears to drive on 33's. Now if you wanted to go up to 35's that would be a much bigger difference from stock tire size. If you are dead set on swapping gears for improved response, I think you may be able to put 3.42 in your current housing with the same carrier, for less money? I'm not an expert on gears, maybe someone can chime in with what gears you could stick in with your existing carrier. But if you're willing to pay the $2,000+ for the work, you can get whatever axle ratio you want.
aseibel replied to TXGREEK's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierraso this is quite interesting. I went out and looked at mine. a couple things: 1) this part is not connected to the door hinge. You have to open the door to see it, but it looks like it is only a bracket to mount the front fender panel. Regardless, it shouldn't be rusty. 2) on my 2015, the drivers side is painted glossy black, but the passenger side looks like bare steel possibly galvanized or something, but it is not even painted a little bit. luckily I can't see any rust on it, but due to where I'm parked I can't open the passenger door all the way. I will look closer when i move the truck. So it appears that for some reason during assembly these left and right brackets are not finished in the same way. I would still demand the dealer give you a non-rusty part. See what else they can tell you about it.
straps are probably the safest method to secure ramps. But when I was removing snow in town, I would drive the old snowbolower up my ramps into the truck between jobs. Everything was covered with snow. But I bought some thin rubber sheets with adhesive backing and put that on the bottom side of the tabs that sit on the tailgate. A quick "brush-off" of the snow with my glove and the rubber did not slip at all. It worked very well. But that was only me risking a snowblower. If I had a $1000+ machine that I was loading, I'd take more time to secure everything. I've used the same ramps to load a dirtbike and snowmobile with no issues. For the snowmobile I attached some of the hard plastic slides to the top for the skis to ride in. For the center ramp, I stapled some rubber "tread" so the track didn't spin. You can't beat the versatility of wood to make it fit your specific situation.
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