Everything posted by aseibel
Yeah if you drive around with the plow on for 4 months straight. It depends on usage. I didn't daily drive my truck because I have a work beater. The new plow mounts are also able to be installed/removed in about 1 minute. I took my plow off if there wasn't snow in the forecast, so I put very few miles on when I wasn't actively using it. If you plan to keep it on all winter because you get snow every other day, and drive the truck to work- this isn't a great idea. The front axle weight rating on mine is only 3950 lbs. Its not like you can carry a V-blade around. A proper sized half-ton plow only weighs around 400 lbs.
Plowing a personal driveway with that truck is no problem. I got a Western HTS which is fairly light. My truck handled it like a champ. I put Timbrens on the front to limit sag. I also threw a couple sandbags in the rear when plowing just to keep the truck level. I always took care to be gentle on the transmission, not hitting the gas until it was fully engaged. I used that setup for about 5 years, never hit snow I couldn't move with it in Wisconsin. I have no advice regarding the magneride, though. If you're serious about it, I recommend looking at the plow brands you can get serviced locally. I ultimately chose Western just because the receivers come off, so in summer you don't have any brackets hanging down below the air dam. I had mine trimmed around the brackets, so you would want to see how the front end of your truck will get butchered up to fit the truckside mount on there. If you have any other questions, hit me up. I researched the heck out of it before I pulled the trigger on mine.
Pulling a 3000 lb trailer with that truck on flat ground is nothing. You won't even feel it unless its an 8' tall enclosed trailer, then you are pushing a lot of air out of the way at freeway speed. That would be the only reason to gear down. A midsize SUV can pull 3000 lbs if its just a utility trailer.
I called the dealer in town, he quoted me $170 for just the part. I'm ordering one off Amazon for $53.
My 2015 1500 LT Crew cab won't open the rear passenger door from inside. The outside handle still works. The child safety lock is not on because the other side door can still open from inside. I tore the door apart to see if the cable came off or broke, but I can't see any issues with the cable. I can hear it moving in the latch assembly when I pull on it. Is there any chance the latch mechanism can be repaired, or do I just need a new one? From a quick online search for parts, I think a new latch assembly is about $110 from GM, or I can get a knock off for about half of that. I'm not excited about ripping the rest of the window track apart to get the latch out of there, so I want to have a plan (get new parts) before I'm left with a door that won't even stay closed.
I took penmanship classes in the late 80s. I was told we needed it to write checks. I probably write two dozen checks a year. The generation following me, most don't even have a checkbook. In my first drafting classes in the late 90s, I learned lettering. Now I do everything on a computer. I wish I could have traded my time spent leaning handwriting and instead spent more time learning how to type properly. I still don't type the correct way, I'm just fast enough to get by. Luckily my work is mostly done with the mouse. There's just no use in society for handwriting anymore, you can blame computers and smartphones for that. Just like everything else they killed from your childhood.
I have a unique situation. I work from home so I have no commute on days I spend on the computer. I drive to jobsites all over the state for inspections, so I get mileage reimbursed. I pay for my own fuel. So I've kept a "beater" to use for work trips and when I'm alone. Weekends and driving the kids around, I use the truck. My wife works a couple miles down the road. We chose a house that was close to her office. My Chrysler 200 v6 gets almost 30 mpg average, So I pocket difference between what I'm reimbursed and what the gas costs me. I usually only buy 1, at most two tanks of gas a month for the truck. This current market isn't going to change anything for me. Wasn't interested in EV's before, still not interested.
Gasoline and gas powered vehicles will continue to be available until after the capabilities/ availability/ price of EV's make them the most attractive option on the market. In 10-20-ish years I'm guessing we'll all be daily driving an EV, but still able to cruise in our ICE toys on the weekends.
The biggest thing you can do to help your fuel economy is to maintain the already highly tuned aerodynamics by NOT installing taller, wider, more aggressive tires. That is a common mod people do that only hurts your wind drag and rolling resistance. Put on some highway tires, maybe even skinnier than OEM. But nobody wants those on a truck. Any cheap bolt-on mod that claims to improve mileage is more likely to be snake oil. If I didn't like the sound my Airaid MIT tube makes I wouldn't have it installed. No noticeable difference in mileage.
same here. On Sunday we had 2" of heavy wet snow that made excellent snowmen. Today 3" of light fluffy stuff. I was happy to get out my Ariens with fresh gas and fresh oil. New toy this year for this kids is an arctic cat 120. Hoping to get that out this weekend. A few more nights in single digits and we'll be out ice skating on the pond. I think I enjoy winter more than most people! My wife says she'll be wintering down south when she retires. I'll say, "See you in the spring!"
Try turning back and forth at some speed. If you can hear it get louder when you turn one direction then you know which side to replace the hub on, the louder outside wheel. Or jack it up and grab top and bottom of tire and try to wiggle it. You'll feel if it is loose at all.
Christmas is coming up, you could ask Santa for a sweatshirt. one thing that might help you- I remember being discussed on here a lot for the K2's, just because the little yellow light is on next to the AC button does not mean its actually cooling the air. The compressor always turns on during remote start in order to dehumidify the air in the cabin in case your windows are foggy. Maybe your truck is working as designed between 50-59 degrees, but since the fan is blowing full speed when you get in, you assume the AC is on.
yeah. If you don't want remote start to blast the AC when its between 60-70 degrees, then why are you remote starting in those conditions? The point of remote starting is to let the engine warm up in the cold, or to turn on the AC when it is hot.
Assuming fuel cost is a wash (I don't know if you included that in your monthly cost), insurance premiums cost more based on the replacement value. Also I know some states charge annual plates/tabs based on vehicle value (Wisconsin doesn't so I'm not too in tune with that.) Everyone knows depreciation is worst in the first year. Now the last year has been a bit crazy, but I'm talking in general. That said, it is definitely cheaper to operate an older vehicle. You can debate the monthly payments vs regular maintenance, but keeping a vehicle for several years after its paid off always puts you ahead. Some people value having their ride under warranty, so always paying a monthly fee gives them peace of mind. I don't believe that is worth it in the long run, but its a personal choice. I have an extra vehicle so if one needs work, I'm not stranded. I have owned my vehicles for 8+ years on average and I don't plan to stop that trend. My wife would prefer a new one about every 5 years. Purely from a money standpoint, I think it is wisest to own vehicles around 4-8 years of age. Some people are more trendy than I am though. My 2014 Chrysler 200 work beater is bare bones, less to go wrong. Give me an FM radio and a heater and I'm good to go.
I call BS on this- no way he averages that over a long term. For a trip, sure. But there are too many variables to compare to others MPG, we don't know the weather, wind, grade, tires, speed, etc. My best tank ever was 22 mpg, cruise set at 70 driving across Iowa in summer. My Hwy Average is in the 18-19 range, and closer to 15-16 in city. I log on a per-tank basis. I have a 1500 with v8, 3.42 gears, 6 spd tranny. There is nothing you listed I wouldn't be more than comfortable doing with my truck. And you have 2 extra gears which will only help you. There is no way I'd daily drive a 2500 unless its for work.
the rear inside tire will skip/skid/bounce while turning before you blow anything up internally. When driving straight (or mostly straight), you are only wearing the tires a little bit more than normal due to the different spin rates. I once drove over 100 miles on dry pavement, it was snowy & ice in town and I was in 4WD, then got on the freeway which was salted and forgot about it til I exited halfway across the state. no issues. But definitely noticed it once I tried to turn into a driveway.
I don't get why they are still called bug shields. Aren't they just for protecting the paint on the edge of the hood? I'd second the PPF. I kinda wish I would have installed that when mine was new. Now my leading edge is full of little paint chips. GM uses the thinnest coat of paint possible to hold its color.
I looked into winter wheels/tires for my wife's acadia. Different size, but same solution: Don't worry about what the wheels are, just find some take-offs and go with it. You aren't buying them for looks. 18's are actually an upgrade in ride quality. Bigger rims are only for looks, and that's subjective at best. Any used take-offs will be cheaper and fit just fine. I wouldn't want to ride on 20" winter tires anyway. If I were you I'd be looking on craigslist and marketplace for 18" wheels, and then your choice of tire. I found OEM GMC alloy wheels with barely used snow tires as a set for $600 (again, smaller tires, so they are cheaper than on the truck) But I don't care. we'll run those a couple years and I can get new rubber if the wheels are in good shape.
Stop it with all that logic. Some people don't know what to do with their paycheck if $500-700 isn't going straight to GM Financial. Don't tell anyone that a key to financial freedom is not having a car payment.
The only must have is a crew cab. Child seats take up a ridiculous amount of space. I've never been into all the other electronic gadgets that are outdated before your warranty is up. The only recent tech improvement I like is android auto for mapping, but I think that comes on all new vehicles now. I will second (or third) that if you even think you want any electronic function, get it factory installed. It won't be easy/fun/cheap to install later. Every damn thing is run through the computer and if you want your truck to work right, get it installed off the bat. I would recommend the plow prep package though for someone in Michigan, who sounds like you do contractor work. Definitely nice to have that income in the winter. That gives you better upfitter switches and wiring for the roof light (at least it did last time I looked closely at the package)
Fluid film works great on bare or painted steel. I used it to coat my plow in the off-season. It still looked new after 5 years. I've seen complaints about what it does to other surfaces such as rubber. I don't think I'd just go to town spraying my entire underside with it. But some people who run old plow trucks do coat everything. I also think it does not play nice with the noxrust coating though.
Well holy &^%$, there it is. I just went out and looked. We do have it. I swore I read somewhere that it didn't exist and I never bothered to look. I'm pretty used to it shutting off now, and yes, just lifting the foot 90% off the brake it will fire up. Now I don't know what I'll do when driving her vehicle around. My truck is a 15 so I don't have to worry about it at all.
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