Everything posted by aseibel
Ok, I get it. "grade braking" does not use the brakes at all. It uses the engine compression and transmission resistance to slow you down. I haven't noticed it downshift to accomplish this, but I imagine it would if your speed allowed for it. Turning this off just allows you to free-wheel down grades more.
I told my wife the other day- as soon as both my kids have driver's licences, I'm selling my truck and going back to a regular cab 8' bed. She laughed. But I was serious. But for the next 13.5 years and counting, my CC short bed works OK. I have a trailer for when I need more room. It really comes down to garage. I could NOT fit a CC standard bed in my current garage. The new house, it shouldn't be an issue. If parking doesn't bother you, then there isn't any other downside to more bed.
I don't know what you are asking here. In WI we don't have too many hills big enough to require brakes when going down. But there is a nice smooth stretch where the speed limit goes down from 55 to 35, where I always let it coast for a while. I notice a considerable improvement in coasting distance when I disable the grade braking first. I don't think there is any downshifting involved with/without it in my truck. You should try it and see what your truck does.
There is an automatic grade braking function that you can manually disable by pressing the tow/haul button for 5 seconds. At lease on my 2015, not sure if its the same on 2019. My computer calculates very close, usually .5 mpg or less higher than hand calc mileage. The more time spent on the highway, the closer it is.
My best ever 25 mile number was like 25.6 mpg, and that was in ideal conditions: summer gas, exactly 60 mph, flat terrain, no stopping at all for 25 miles, calm conditions through mostly heavy trees. I think I once hit a similar number on the freeway doing 70 mph, but that was with a tail wind. Its very hard to do much better than that in a rolling brick. My average fuel economy per tank is more like 17-18 in winter and 19-20 in summer. I have 3.42 gears. Anybody posting MPG results should state their gears and what speed the trip occurred at. Since those are huge variables in predicting fuel economy. Its easy to get exaggerated numbers for a short trip if wind or slope is in your favor. If anyone wants to get a real result, a full round-trip should be recorded.
you have several factors working against you: 1) wider tires - worse aerodynamics at speed 2) more aggressive tread - worse aerodynamics at speed 3) heavier tires - more inertia = worse acceleration So you would definitely improve your fuel mileage with the OEM size of a good all season/highway tire. I also run the Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S at OEM size and I don't think it hurt my mileage too much for being a semi-aggressive tread. But you could get a much less aggressive design. See the crap they put on the brand new trucks to compare (mine were Goodyear SRA's). Those are chosen for economy only.
Maybe if one is actually concerned with towing performance, then he shouldn't install 35" tires on a truck that came with 31.5" tires? The vast majority of lifted trucks with big wheels out on the road are solely for looks. I don't get all this discussion about spending a couple grand to make a truck perform well again after throwing all that money on looks that just seriously hampered the performance. I wish I had that disposable income. But I do agree that if you want to go the big tire + re-gear route, then you do need to account for both the change in your ground speed relative to the driveshaft, as well as the extra angular momentum of the big heavy tires. The OP is on to something. I got a C in dynamics, so I'm not going to attempt to calculate it.
How far of a trip are we talking about? I've hauled more weight than my truck was designed for, (not current truck, but older one). If you aren't in heavy traffic and can can go slow for short distances, you're okay. My opinion is you can do whatever you want with your truck. But its a different story if you are causing a problem for other drivers. Tips: load weight as far forward as possible to put some load over front axle, make sure tires are fully inflated, or even a little over. once your axle reaches the bump stops, then you are relying on your tires for "suspension." As long as you are NOT over the tires' max load rating and not being a road hazard, you can make it happen. But if anything goes wrong, you're on your own. ha.
Due to your increased tire size, your truck now feels like it has 3.08 gears. Going back to OEM size tires would boost your truck back to feeling like 3.42. That would be the easiest thing you can do. But I suppose that is not an option for you?
aseibel replied to TXGREEK's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraIt is not a hinge. It is only a body panel mounting bracket, totally separate from the door. It has been verified that it is the same on all of the trucks, so there is some reason GM did this. So far, the radio antenna attachment is the only plausible reason.
I've had my truxedo LoPro on for 3 years and the foam strip that came with my cover had worked fine until this winter. Now its peeling off. I will have to do something this year to fix the seal. I may just replace the foam gasket, but I'm interested to see if there are any better ideas. I'm not opposed to a cap on that front edge of the box that sits at the same level as the OEM side rail covers.
are you sure that the wear is not coming from an alignment or air pressure issue? Have you modified your suspension at all? Are all 4 wearing equally, or just the outside edges on the front, for instance? I do think there are better all season tire options than BFG when you compare price to lifespan. I'm a big fan of the Cooper AT3's.
winter gas. Around here the summer stuff doesn't come back until May I believe. I net your fuel efficiency will jump by then, as will the price per gallon. https://newsroom.aaa.com/2013/06/what-is-the-difference-between-summer-and-winter-blend-gasoline/
So, out of the 4 things you want: 1/2 ton, 6.2 engine, 4 door cab, 8' box- you are not willing to give on any of them? That would be a rare truck. It would be about 29' long, so good luck parking it in your garage or any parking stall. Most people settle for either getting the family hauler with a short bed, or getting a work truck with long box. Its tough to find. I also wanted the 8' bed, but I'm getting along just fine without it. I have a trailer for when I need more hauling capacity. Good luck in your search. I would hate to see you in a f*rd.
keep the gas tank full to balance it out. But seriously, do you have any heavy tools/ gear in the truck or bed? I wouldn't worry about 3/4" difference. Unless it was nose high. So I would say you are in a good position.
I think your mileage calc method is reasonable. But keep in mind the DIC reading is only an estimate. Most people say the DIC reading is off by up to 1 mpg from hand calc, I find that it is usually within .5 mpg for me. You'd be more accurate to multiply your miles by 1.06 and then divide by gallons. Why not just update your speedo for the new tire size? some handheld tuners will do it, or your dealer could do it for you?
maybe my math is off, but here's my thoughts: going from oem tires, which I'm assuming are 31.5" to 33" is an increase of about 10% in circumference Going from 3.08 gear to 3.73 is a change of 21%, or more than double the difference. 3.42 gears with 33s would maintain roughly your same ground speed to axle speed as your OEM truck/tires. So if you want your truck to drive like a OEM one with 3.42, I guess you do need to switch to 3.73. haha, I hope no one could follow that logic.
I don't know if you really NEED 3.73 gears to drive on 33's. Now if you wanted to go up to 35's that would be a much bigger difference from stock tire size. If you are dead set on swapping gears for improved response, I think you may be able to put 3.42 in your current housing with the same carrier, for less money? I'm not an expert on gears, maybe someone can chime in with what gears you could stick in with your existing carrier. But if you're willing to pay the $2,000+ for the work, you can get whatever axle ratio you want.
aseibel replied to TXGREEK's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierraso this is quite interesting. I went out and looked at mine. a couple things: 1) this part is not connected to the door hinge. You have to open the door to see it, but it looks like it is only a bracket to mount the front fender panel. Regardless, it shouldn't be rusty. 2) on my 2015, the drivers side is painted glossy black, but the passenger side looks like bare steel possibly galvanized or something, but it is not even painted a little bit. luckily I can't see any rust on it, but due to where I'm parked I can't open the passenger door all the way. I will look closer when i move the truck. So it appears that for some reason during assembly these left and right brackets are not finished in the same way. I would still demand the dealer give you a non-rusty part. See what else they can tell you about it.
straps are probably the safest method to secure ramps. But when I was removing snow in town, I would drive the old snowbolower up my ramps into the truck between jobs. Everything was covered with snow. But I bought some thin rubber sheets with adhesive backing and put that on the bottom side of the tabs that sit on the tailgate. A quick "brush-off" of the snow with my glove and the rubber did not slip at all. It worked very well. But that was only me risking a snowblower. If I had a $1000+ machine that I was loading, I'd take more time to secure everything. I've used the same ramps to load a dirtbike and snowmobile with no issues. For the snowmobile I attached some of the hard plastic slides to the top for the skis to ride in. For the center ramp, I stapled some rubber "tread" so the track didn't spin. You can't beat the versatility of wood to make it fit your specific situation.
I'll throw this out there: For loading anything into a truck bed, the angle of the ramps is important for ease of driving/pushing and safety. I was very frustrated that my tailgate naturally angles "up". I found these links as a solution. It drops the open tailgate a bit lower, which is now actually easier to reach in to grab things, and lowers your ramp angle. for $20, they are well worth it. http://www.ridertailgate.com/copy-of-gm1-tailgate-lowering-link-set/ I also second the lumber ramps. cheap, easy to cut to whatever length you want. the only problem is that they don't fit in the short box very well if you want to transport them. I cut mine to fit inside my old truck's 8' bed
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