Everything posted by aseibel
Definitely. The dealer will be happy to take your trade-in and put you in a newer vehicle for the same monthly payment. They will just gloss over how many more months of payments you just signed up for. We don't know what your finances look like. It's your money, if you have plenty and will be happier with the new truck, then go for it. But you're not going to come out ahead financially.
sorry, I didn't specify, I'm running OEM size which is 265/65/18. I did add Timbrens on the front for snow plowing, but other than that stock suspension. So my front end is maybe 1/2" higher than stock.
I have the same tires, but in the 4S version which is P rated. Not the XLT which is load E, like you are looking at. I love the tires, great ride, great traction in snow, quiet on the road. I highly recommend. Load E will be slightly different than my ride, but I'm confident you will like the tires.
I really hate the subscription model. they just want your credit card info so they can jack up the rate after a certain time period and hope you're too dumb to call back and complain. What I want is a one time fee to just keep it for the life of the truck. My 5 years will expire in June. I plan to call them an b*%^h about their service. I would like to keep it and would pay a nominal fee for the service, but no way am I paying $15 or even 10 every month. They don't care about people who keep their vehicle long term, they want me to go back and buy a new one every 3 years. Sorry, I'm keeping my money in my pocket.
On the K2's there is a switch on the drivers door arm rest to turn child lock on/off. Do they no longer have that switch on T1's?
I came across this kit from KC when I was looking for reverse lights. These lights are excessively bright. (i'm using them for back-up lights) But the kits gives you a switch and all wiring for $80. https://www.kchilites.com/light-type/led/cyclone/cyclone-led-2-light-universal-under-hood-lighting-kit-kc-355.html
If you kept any of the OEM parts, you can replace them, then sell your mods separately. And still get the 30k on trade-in. Selling stuff online is a challenge. You are free to ask anything you want, but you also have to store it until it sells (making payments, in your case) while dealing with dozens of low-ballers and tire-kickers. Maybe you find that one guy that values your mods, who knows. Trading it is definitely the easier route.
Whether the response is appropriate or not, only time will tell. I have my early guess. I now get to figure out how to watch two children and still hold down a job. I don't have 2.5 months of sick time to use. I just hope they open up child care sooner than June.
Why would you keep them at max psi unless you are daily hauling the maximum weight allowed by your truck's configuration? I would think most reasonable people would find the sweet spot based on their typical daily usage. Is your GVWR 15,000 lbs? Tires can usually support more weight than your truck's GVWR would allow, so no need to go up to 80psi.
No, I have never thought about it. I express methane gas into my fabric seats regularly to test them. never noticed any issue. If I was going to get in my seat while drenched in sweat I would sit on a towel, just like i wouldn't sit on my seat with a wet swimming suit on.
I have a truxedo lopro and I love it. Keeps the bed completely dry, even in car wash. (only leak comes through tailgate edges.) It Easily removes, or rolls up out of my way. I use my bed for large items often and don't want some big heavy thing in my way. If you never open your bed, then a hard/flip version is for you. If you use the bed, get a roll up. All covers leak a little bit depending on conditions. I wouldn't trust one that relies on some little tubes to drain. Mine sits above the rails and does a great job of shedding water. As for security, the main concern is keeping things out of sight. My cover cannot be opened without the tailgate opening first. If someone feels the need to destroy it, I don't think the type of cover makes a whole lot of difference.
The only color that "stays clean" is the one that matches the color of the crap you just drove though. I think black and white are the worst, with any shade of grey/brown being slightly better at hiding the crud. but they all get the same amount of dirty when you drive through, or follow someone through, any puddle. I can't even get home from the car wash with it looking clean, so I just clean it less often, haha. My wife picked my color, I would have probably gotten black only because my old one was black, but I'm a fan of my color now. Even though its no longer an option (tungsten/iridium)
I have two tool boxes under the seat and an undercover swing case in the bed. All my supplies and tools go in those. I don't really want any fabric bags sliding around, and getting dirty. I would also have something like the DU-HA or Husky underseat storage bins, but I can't easily lift up the seats with the kids car seats in the way. As soon as those are gone, I'll buy one of those items.
I'm with Erik. I don't care if you manage to come in just under the rear axle weight rating. Towing that size of a trailer any significant distance with a 1500 will not be fun in anything but ideal conditions. Maybe if you only plan to tow it twice a year to the lake in next county over, that's much easier and you won't have many issues. But if you plan to tow 1000's of miles, get enough truck for the job. Brakes and ability to handle in the wind are more important IMO.
I split the loom open and tapped into the wires going to that plug. I'm not sure what you could do if you don't have a plug in there. I'd try to find the wiring kit that is an option on these trucks (came with mine) Can you test to see if the terminals are getting power? I think those should be plug and play, but maybe need the truck to be programmed if it didn't come with bed lights?
Don, you've got an extra foot of length on me and I always back in as well. Then you always know you can get out, not that someone parks too close on one side and you can't swing the front around to leave. I would say just having a camera makes parking 10 fold easier than it used to be without. I don't have a fancy 360 camera, but with the rear view I can easily get right up to the line, or inches away from the bumper behind me.
how many miles are on those tires? Worn knobby tires just make noise. Its hard to get them to wear perfectly even. look at the outer and inner edges, are the lugs worn in a saw blade pattern? how about every other lug high/low? If you rotate regularly and all 4 are worn the same way, then the noise would still be the same. My guess is if you put any different tires on, the noise stops.
I can help with this one. See this thread I created. I installed back-up lights using the same cargo light circuit. See page 11 for my finished photos. You want the red wire in the far right plug in the junction box which sits just above your spare tire. If you don't have the plug there, you may be able to tap into it from the back side, or just buy the GM bed lighting kit which should give you all the wiring and lights you need. I have some more photos of the junction box and wiring in my gallery:
I have a K2, but use the same app as you. I don't think the issue is with the app, but rather some electrical gremlin in the truck. You said it has also occurred when using the fob. It could be something like low voltage reading that is preventing the truck from starting remotely. I can't remember exactly, but i think there are a list of requirements that must be met in order to remote start. your truck is triggering something, whether accurately or not, is throwing an error. Are you certain the battery is in good condition? ground cables tight? a lot of weird things happen when the voltage is messed up.
I guess I never saw that memo. It seems that if you choose to run wheels that "sensor do not physically work on these rims" then you get to see the light lit up to remind you to check your air pressure the old fashioned way.
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