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Acpantera

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  • Name
    TS
  • Location
    WNY
  • Drives
    Red Hot RST Rally

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  1. The Battery is also upgraded to an AGM in the auto stop/start featured vehicles, well worth 50 bucks
  2. My choice was the 2.7T, to tell you the truth a truck wasn't on my radar when it came time to replace my Genesis G80 sport. I had my fun with that twin turbo V6. I had recently got back into snowmobiling so I did wanted a vehicle with some towing capability(I was using dads Verano w/studded snows). My son had a new Trailboss w/5.3....no thanks...too tall...too stiff, too thirsty for every day driving. I checked into the new 2.7 and was impressed with the engineering. In 42 years of vehicle ownership I have only had 1 V8. I just really don't have the need or desire for one. The 2.7 is power dense and pleasing to drive. Rated at over 9,000# towing, I would not hesitate to tow a camper or any other trailer at 5,000# any where at any time for as long as needed. I am usually a more sporting driver than most, but I have a powerful 175hp sport touring bike and a 200hp turbo snowmobile to get my speed jollies. The 2.7 can keep me ahead of normal traffic and still return over 18mpg(can hyper mile over 22mpg) so a V8 would be over kill for me, besides, I personally prefer the sound of turbo spooling up verses the V8 sound....that's just my "thing". As for the folks that are convinced that a N/A V8 will out live a modern Turbo 4, I really don't care because I seldom keep a vehicle longer than 60,000 miles, just can't watch a vehicles value fall next to nothing, so I trade my stuff every 4 to 5 years. Given the good engineering in the 2.7 I wouldn't be surprised to see one last as long as a V8 if cared for properly.
  3. I completely agree, but I like my Gm cash, and I'm certain I'll be buying another GM in 4 to 6 years, so giving up 2 to 3 grand is tough.
  4. I think I figured out the issue with paying at the pump. If the pump has the option of tap and go, use it instead of feeding the card into the reader.
  5. I'm not happy with Marcus so far either. Been a member since 1995, it has been our primary card the whole time and we've cashed in nearly $13,000 in rewards towards new cars. Since getting the new card it doesn't work at some of our favorite gas stations at the pumps. I rely on this card, worrisome not knowing if it's going to work or not. Tried to resolve issues over the phone and it's at least a 30 minute waste of time every time. Marcus blows, miss Capital One.
  6. It is always going to take "X" amount of hp to pull a 3300lb trailer with the aerodynamics of a wet cinder block. Back in the late 90's early 00's I had a soft sided 4 place snowmobile trailer, loaded with 4 sleds it was about 3500 lbs. I towed it all over with a Chevy Astro 2wd 4.3l v6 with a whopping 200hp. I routinely got 10 to 11 mpg. From time to time my two friends would trade places towing the trailer, one was a gm pick up 350 4x4 and the other was Ford f150 with a 302 2wd . All 3 vehicles got the same mpg within .5 mpg. Their is no gasoline pickup towing that trailer ever going to do better than 12mpg on your same trip. 11 ain't bad at all with that weight and aerodynamic drag....darn physics.
  7. I think $125 sounds about right. I do my own maintenance only because I have trust issues. Synthetic oil will costs me about $6 per qrt, 5.3 takes 8qrt, so $48 in oil alone, $10 for a filter, a few bucks for top off fluids and spray lube...so $60 for parts, fair deal.....Labor, a cheap rate would be $100 per hr, so less than a 1/2 hr to lube lube hinges and latches, ck lights, ck wiper blades, ck tire tread and pressures, put vehicle on a lift and raise, replace filter, drain oil, put an eyeball on the underside for leaks and broken stuff, lower vehicle, fill with oil, ck brake fluid, ps fluid, coolant, air filter, top off windshield solvent, and look at the battery connections. Do paper work and return to owner....all for $100 total....very ok deal if all is done well with no damage. $25 for 15 minutes to remove and reinstall all wheels, if lugs are torqued properly, fair deal too. Only thing I can say is that you should always take your vehicle to the same place and only that place for the oil changes, that way you can hold them accountable if anything goes wrong down the road, like a stripped out oil drain or whatever.
  8. Changed the oil again yesterday, this time I drained into a 5 gallon bucket....works great! Didn't spill a drop, contained all the splash. While on the topic of oil, this 2.7 uses almost exactly 1 quart of oil in 5,000 miles, same result at 5,000 and 10,000 miles.
  9. CEL will go out by itself after several run cycles, keep everything plugged in as designed. Fuel mileage will always drop in the winter because of many things, winter blend fuels, longer warm up cycles, density of air needs more fuel to maintain proper af ratio, etc... A big fuel waster is remote starters, idling nets 0 mpg.
  10. Not exactly what was looking for, but it did lead me to spacer blocks that I will be able to space the front of the seat tracks higher in the front. Thanks
  11. One important thing to me was a power seat to get comfortable while driving for extended miles, so I bought the RST instead of the custom...I'm happy....BUT, the wife sitting on the passenger side says that the front of the seat cushion is too low(or the rear of the cushion is too high)and there is no adjustment because the seat is not powered. Has anyone modified the seat to angle the seat cushion so that the front is higher to give more thigh support? I was thinking of shimming the seat mount in the front about a 1/2" or so, any thoughts or ideas??
  12. That's a creative thought, thanks. If my next plan of attack doesn't work out, I'll pursue that. Winter is coming on strong now, so March should be my next oil change. Going to use a taller pale next time to try and contain the splash down.
  13. Yeah, I have a good extractor too, but I like to get all the juice out, usually let mine drain/ drip for 15min at jus the right angle, RF just a tad higher than the other 3 corners.
  14. Correct, plastic plug that you use the 3/8 square drive to remove. Much like the fill cap with out the molded handle, and nearly as big in diameter. I like the concept, but it's very large and the oil splashes all over.
  15. I'll have to ck deeper into the quick valves, when I did ck nobody made one for the silly quick release drain plug on the 2.7. First oil change I did cold and with the fill cap on...still a gusher. Maybe I'll try a bucket to drain in next time.
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