crushNchowda

Well my 2015 actually ALSO left me & the fam stranded on a vacation, but not due to the AFM hardware - instead had a failed/corroded starter @ like 35-40k miles. 12xxx miles ownership into a 2018 Ford Raptor & VERY happy w/ the change. Good luck w/ your GM - if its on their dime take the repair & drive it for a while then trade out...Rams are nice too, I'm starting to like the look of some of the newest GM trucks as well, but won't be buying anything from them again until it seems like their quality/reliability/service improves.

One thing I'll say after driving the Tundra......when you consider cost, gas mileage, power, & the fact it is so dated & not a fully boxed frame designI feel like a prospective Tundra buyer would be better off w/ a 6.0 equipped GM 2500......will get better gas mileage, way more capable, no AFM crap, & the motor/tranny combo is proven.

Driving an '18 Ford Raptor now....lost my GMC to a deer - not a trade, but when ins. totaled my Sierra I decided after GM getting my $$$ for my last 4 trucks - 2 of which had a number of issues - I decided I should open up my options a little bit. 900 miles on the Raptor now & am happy thus far. All manufacturers will have their issues, just started to seem like I was expecting the stereotypical stuff to just fail on the new GM trucks & like magic just kept happening - lifters, injectors, fuel rail, 3rd brake light, starter, NAV/infotainment, tranny, wheel bearings, torque converter seat, shakes, etc. etc. etc. I was all set w/ potentially getting a "new" '18 waiting for all the old gremlins to reappear or crossing my fingers that a complete redesign 2019 was going to be that much better? All set. Let someone else be GM's guinea pig. Smart biz move by them - my guess is w/ the shoddy quality, Mexican builds, lack of innovation, etc. on the '14-'18 Trucks, plus avoiding warranty claims, reducing the warranty duration mid-cycle, & charging big $$$$ for all of em they probably padded the wallet fairly well.....@ least I hope so after the bailout & then laying thousands upon thousands of people off to boot. First full size Ford, maybe not my last - will see how it holds up. The bar has not been left very high by my past GM trucks sad to say.

Not worried just curious - mostly trying to get the best deal - sooooo, a brand new 2018 leftover w/ a Fabtech level, 33" nitto terra grapplers on black 20" fuel wheels, a corsa exhaust, SLT premium plus w/ a maggie for $54k is a ridiculous deal I totaled my truck need to replace it don't wanna waste much time but want to get the best deal possible. No matter what, SC or not, I'd be leveling it, putting on 33"s (I already have 33" snow tire setup w/ factory 20"s so that works out) & putting on an exhaust - that would all be $3000 in and of itself to begin with. Dealers in my area are not discounting enough IMO, this is a Laura GMC deal - of course I would have to fly out there & ship it, so that's a PITA in a way too, but still - the pricing is just way lower. I don't think it would get only 10 mpg though w/ the AFM still in there - if I'm getting on it sure, but otherwise no. I want a 6.2 CC w/ 20" wheels either SLT premium plus or Denali - Denali would cost me additional $$$ aside from the higher sticker I would IMMEDIATELY drop the magnaride shocks add the delete kit (like $450) & add either Bilstein 5100s or Eibacks which would be another $500-$750 installed. I guess I do save on the bed liner.

Long story short, my truck was totaled last week, got confirmation today. Have been looking around & found a great deal on a leftover 2018 6.2 premium plus w/ a magnason supercharger installed. Seems like they've retained the the stock cam/valvetrain will still go into AFM mode, magnason warranties the engine/transmission above & beyond GM in case something isn't covered. They're telling me the rest of the drivetrain components would still be covered under the factory comprehensive warranty (which seems nuts) - like axles, driveshaft, diffs What kind of gas mileage would I expect to see w/ a setup like this? The truck is also leveled 2.5" & on 33"s, my truck was leveled similarly I was averaging 16.5 mpg overall. I am 1100 miles away from the dealer so can't just go there & check it out myself, I wouldn't be worried about much if it wasn't supercharged since I'm already familiar w/ the platform having 3 of these trucks in the past including the one that just got totaled.

not sure if you already pulled the trigger, but my recommendation would be jumping up to the 34" 275/65R20 KO2's - with these BFG's (and most 33"+ tires) you are going to an 8 to 12 ply LT tire D or E load rated that will be MUCH heavier than stock, so w/ the added unsprung weight (and increased height/angles) you get greater wear/tear on the suspension bits/ball joints/bearings/bushings + you will notice a drop in acceleration, MPG, & braking performance. ON the other hand you gain a better/cushier ride, more ground clearance, better grip on/off road - SO all that being said, since you're already going to be compromising on that front, may as well get the 1"+ (for some reason KO2's are a "short" 275/60R20 tire measuring only 32.9" BUT the 275/65 version of that tire is a true 34" height), the better look, AND they are within 2.5 lbs of each other in terms of weight so you don't really get any additional penalty in the MPG/acceleration/braking depts. Stock 275/55R20's 39-41lbs BFG KO2's in 275/60R20 = 54.5lbs BFG KO2 in 275/65R20 = 57.3lbs + extra 1.2" diameter over the 275/60 You're welcome ;-)

I've had bilstein 5100's @ top setting + 2.25" rear blocks + 33" tires for 40k miles NO ISSUE other than a bad front wheel bearing which I cant say one way or another the lift contributed to. I do know the bilstein leveling shocks supposedly mitigate the stresses/angles on the front suspension components, so that may be worth looking into instead of a couple of POS plastic or metal puck spacers...........food for thought. Eibach also makes a similar leveling system w/ adjustable shocks & their kit can come w/ replacement front springs too which would also help avoid any issues w/ bushings/ball joints.

FWIW I did a complete brake job @ 50-55k miles or so (pads/rotors/fluid/lube) - all sounds disappeared.

FWIW I have Bilstein 5100's all 4 corners top setting in front w/ 33" 275/60R20 Nitto Terra Grapplers + 2.25" (+1") rear blocks. My total before/after ride height for the front was a hair over 2.5"....so either the bilsteins @ top setting are really more like 2" or the tires are a little taller or combo of both. I run 44 psi front 42 rear. I had 2200 lbs of rocks in the bed w/ this setup & it did not appear nose high, it still looked level - that isn't apples to apples to towing a trailer, but I think if you're not maxing it out you'll still have a level ride height may even maintain some rake depending on tongue weight. Here are some pics w/ this setup (no weight in the bed though) - its tough to really see the amount of clearance added w/ the thick stock running boards, but its significant & really is the perfect stance for this generation of GM 1/2 tons IMO. I removed the front chin spoiler/air dam/diffuser (whatever you wanna call it) & that really added to the "lifted" look of the trucks stance, also improved overall clearance, I noticed MAYBE 1/2 mpg difference on the highway, although that could also be attributed to the height increase in general. Actually, I think running 275/65R20's would be the PERFECT look/height, except you can't get a non-LT 8+ply AT tire in that size & I didn't like the drop in acceleration/braking/MPG performance w/ the heavier LT tires so decided to stick w/ the 275/60R20 Nittos. Lastly - 2 pieces of advice, #1 if you get these shocks I'd hit em up w/ some spray can clear coat before installing so they stay nice looking, they have stainless steel body but is 400 series & will oxidize in salty road conditions. #2 - if I were to do it all over again I would look into Eibach's setup as well - they are American made quality shocks & they offer a similar adjustable gas charged shock but also offer it w/ matching front springs (for a lil more $$$). I am satisfied w/ the Bilsteins though & will probably replace them w/ the same model once they're worn out - I have over 50k miles on them so far though & still ride like they did when new.

I dunno guys if the frame was bare, anodized, or galvanized I think fluid film is a good idea, otherwise I think its much more prudent to reapply the same stuff that they came w/ from the factory, combining 2 very different chemical coatings on metal is never a good idea, especially when theres no way of full removing one or the other. Also - the pic in this thread of the FF stripping the factory wax is also more than enough incentive for me NOT to try it lol

I live in MA & my truck gets pummeled w/ road salt/sand etc. all winter. I make a point to re-apply the factory wax coating once yearly smack dab in the middle of SUMMER when its hot & dry so the coating adheres well & also so there's no chance for trapped moisture causing rust beneath the surface later. Depending on the condition 1 or 2 cans does the trick, this year I went heavy & did a full 2 spray cans of it everywhere underneath & it seems like reapplying helps the wax adhere to parts better & keeps it supple w/ way less flaking occurring in between applications - I have 58k miles on this truck, previously my '14 had 45k miles on it before I totaled it and DIDNT treat the frame - its fairly obvious the frame/undercarriage on my current truck is holding up MUCH better. My truck is leveled I don't even really need to lift it up to get a good application (although I do drive it up on ramps to really get a good look underneath) - safety glasses, respirator/handkerchief, a creeper & 1-2 $20 bottles of nox-rust all you need.

I'm not into hunting (AKA dipping/drinking coffee & freezin my ass off in the early morning in the woods ) but way too many around & we need population control so glad you are helping out lol! Nice examples. I see the plow - I thought there weren't really options for plows on our trucks for some reason I thought CC trucks weren't rated for a plow?? How does it do & how much was the setup if you don't mind me asking? Do you get a lot of front end sag w/ the added weight? These trucks are so low from the factory but I have mine lifted about 3" in total between level/tires so that would help

So which is it guy? Are they "looser" or are they "stiffer"??? Sounds like more excuses for piss poor engineering & lazy Mexican manufacturing teams - sounds like big cuts & savings in R&D/Engineering/OEM parts suppliers/labor to help pad the balance sheet after borrowing our tax dollars to prevent bankruptcy. That's pretty much how I look at these piles of trash we all gut suckered into buying under the assumption GM would continue to @ least produce trucks that will match the reliability/durability of their previous offerings - instead they went backwards, probably intentionally & willfully as a business decision to put them in better financial shape - they 10000000000% KNOW These '14-'18 trucks are junkboxes, & the most unfortunate thing I'm starting to realize is that if you expect to get anywhere near a good deal on trade for a new one its gonna have to be @ a GM/Chevy dealer b/c I've already been told from multiple Dodge dealers they "know these are the chevy trucks that shake on the highway or rough trannies because 50% of the time that's why people are trading them in" GM trucks, the gift that keeps on giving!!!!!!!!

I'm happy I was able to keep my '03 Z06 alongside my '15 GMC Sierra.....sad thing is the Z06 is 10x more reliable & better built than my loaded to the gills 6.2 SLT truck....electronic gremlins & panel gaps aside, you can tell somebody actually "gave a sh*T" when they were designing and manufacturing the Z vs. the Sierra. I have 57k on my '15....paid it off recently, I can guarantee I wouldn't have done that & would've just traded it in on something else if it was a '16-'18 w/o the 100k powertrain warranty....main reason I kept it. In that mileage span its gone through multiple lifters/injectors/fuel rails, starter, tranny TSB's for flash & new fluid/filter, radio/touch screen goes haywire randomly, they all shake to some degree, just had a front bearing go south, leaky 3rd brake light, etc. etc. I'm definitely missing some of the issues they all kinda blend together @ this point...... My only hope is that it goes another 80-100k without leaving me stranded a 2nd time & without me having to put any sort of big $$$ into keeping it running other than fluids/brakes/tires. I just want low maintenance/cost for a few years while I focus on saving money & paying my mortgage down. WILL NOT get another 1/2 ton pickup again, the only TRUCKS the big 3 seem to make are HD's, these are glorified soccer mom mobiles w/ a bed in the back. A work colleague just got a new F150 lariat thing stickered for nearly $70k bahahahhahhaha You know what else $70k could buy? Hell, about $45k? I'm pretty sure I could get custom built full blown K Blazer restomod w/ all the goodies that'd be more reliable, less headaches, & more fun to drive than a new loaded mall truck.

Lol well you have an ‘04 which has no “bearing” (pun intended ?) on this thread since we are talking Mexican built post-bailout junkbox GM trucks not ‘04s when GM actually gave a sh*t

that's the brand I ordered. I haven't gotten around to install yet but it really shouldn't be difficult - as another poster mentioned CV nut then 3 bolts that attach the hub + the wheel speed/abs sensor plug, that's pretty much it. I imagine I'll have to use a wedge/chisel/mallet to get the bad one off, probably stuck pretty good. I will get some pics of the old bearing once it is off.

I suspected I've had a driver's front wheel bearing on its way out for some time, mentioned to the dealer 3x & every time they told me "its fine" - now of course, out of warranty had my regular mechanic check out & confirmed my suspicions. I ordered Timken part#HA590491 from rock auto for $135 (dealer/shop price is $300-$350 if you can believe that) - I only ordered the one that was noisy & opted to go w/ Timken since it was actually a little less than the AC Delco/OEM part- and considering the factory part starting going @ 45-50k miles (now truck is @ 55k miles & it clearly needs replacement) - figured I'd try an alternative. Anyone else had to replace wheel bearings yet? How long they lasting & what brand did you go with? How many hrs labor should I expect from a shop? I'm contemplating just doing this repair myself it seems very straightforward, just wish I had the part when I was doing brakes 6 weeks ago. My truck has had bilstein 5100's all around top height setting for the last 40-45k miles + 1" taller rear blocks. Not sure if that really made a difference or not w/ the life of the bearing, I do use 4wd fairly regularly in the winter months & maybe 1-2x per month in non-winter.

Every GM vehicle I've owned w/ a V8 & THEIR tranny has exhibited the "slam" when first put into gear always worse when cold. GTO w/ 4 speed, Silverado w/ 4 speed, G8 GT w/ 6 speed, & 2x2014 trucks w/ 6 speed, & now my 2018 w/ 8 speed.....is it "normal"? I dunno - its normal for GM that's for sure. My belief is theres simply more volume in the casing of their trannies than is typical for other makes, they use a fluid that expands quite a bit as everything warms up - all the vehicles mentioned above are also known to run hotter than most other makes as well & that IS NORMAL - but I think the compensation somewhere in GM's recipe for mating a tranny to these applications results in a situation where all the clutch packs shift ring seals & the entire tranny assembly in general becomes "starved dry" of fluid as it cools after 6-8+ hrs of sitting & when you first start it up & put it in "D" it results in a harsh/abrupt slam until all the fluid is warmed up & recirculated the harsh shifts & flares are more obvious & present. Problem is the tuning from the factory is a mess as well in efforts to perform well in "instrumented testing" to meet CAFE regs (thanks again Barry) - I have learned firsthand how much a custom tune can help - in fact it essentially MASKED the mechanical flaws in the 6L80E in my G8 GT above & beyond the factory programming "flaws" - I forget exactly what it was mechanically something about the 2-3 & 1-2 ring seals installed backwards or something - but came down to fluid not flowing properly in the transmission again essentially. Pulled timing, weak ass shift torque, torque mgmt dialed in all over the map, constantly hunting for highest gear possible, etc etc etc This isn't new for GM - its old hat, but keep adding gears & their shitty factory settings become more annoying & noticeable. That's my take anyhow. That being said - I now have the joy of experiencing the latest & greatest mass problem w/ these shitboxes - the "phantom rumble strip" intermittent vibration that comes under light throttle when just cruising/maintaining speed & attempting to drive "smoothly" instead I'm rewarded w/ a pulsing vibration through the steering wheel that seems to be worst when going up a slight incline, happens regardless of speed or V8 vs V4, but seems to be worse as the truck warms up & seems to be focused in the 1200-1800 rpm range. LOVE IT! Like ghetto lane departure warning! I think its the TC or tranny shitting the bed, we'll see....and for the longest time I seriously thought it was just the road. Junk. Anyone who "congratulates" some poor sap who just bought a new one should be ashamed of themselves!!!!!! RUN AWAY is what you should be telling people....

GOD F'N DAMNIT!!! IF I could reach through my monitor & slap the hell outta every damn forum member that loves to immediately chime in when people post complaints about recurring COMMON problems & say, "don't listen to all the negativity people only come on forums to complain the vast majority of these trucks are trouble free blah blah" OK - well, in the case of these K2xxx mexican trucks THEY ARE ALL diseased - they ALL have @ least some (I won't even say "one" - they hall have @ least 1+) of the common issues. Take it from someone who has owned 2x2014's & current 2015 w/ a combined 105k miles across the 3 of em. Also - I have an insane close friend who is on his 4th - the dealers took back the previous 2 & made deal to replace w/ new leases, he went through 2 trannies & 3 torque converters alone. Anyhow - sorry for the rant, its actually a "thank you" LOL - as I type this I'm traveling for business & my truck sits AGAIN @ the dealer while they do a 4 corner brake job (I provided the parts) - I am getting the creaking sound when coming to a stop just like the OP - figured @ 55k miles it was about due I drive it hard & have had some high speed freeway braking. Hoping this sound goes away after new brakes installed, assuming it will. The REAL reasons its there though: #1 I'm getting the phantom "rumble strip" vibration through the steering wheel that I am being told is the tranny fluid/programming by the svc mgr, I think its the TC going through its death spirals, we will see, #2 I already left it w/ em for a week trying to pinpoint the "squeal"/screech sound you & others mentioned that seems to only happen when turning right, especially from a stop, & maybe being on slight incline contributes. I think its a bearing going or something w/ steering rack - dealer couldn't replicate of course. NOW - what I think you & others should check, I've also noticed I've been getting a "growling" type vibration/sound that feels as if I'm running 1 super nubby brand new mud tire just on the driver's front w/ a bunch of slicks on the other 3 corners - also think it is related to the screech, but while the sound is kinda faint, I realized you can FEEL it without question through the steering wheel - again I think it's the bearing/hub assembly. We will see. If the dealer says they can't replicate I will drive it through their showroom window. good luck. Subscribed to this thread & will report back w/ what I find from my dealer. In regards to getting rid of it......I'd let Ford (and future GM) truck owners be the guinea pigs on the new 10 speed....call me jaded but highly doubt it'll be an improvement, have already heard Raptor complaints, I just stroke a check for $10k recently to pay the loan off, sick of vehicle payments so relegated to getting my truck sorted out....also agree its still the best looking 1/2 ton in the last 10 years & better than the new '19 GM trucks FOR SURE, lastly I have the last of the 100k mile powertrain warranties....for all vehicles not just GM (unless I want a hyundai or nissan) - my dealer boasts that they warranty powertrains "for life" so long as major services (tranny flush/diff flush etc) get done within the appropriate time frame. The tough part is I think one of the "fixes" to make these trucks tolerable is getting a custom tune - voiding warranty ironically - and a certain fix would be swapping out the cam/lifters valves/springs etc. for a DOD delete cam kit - also a sure warranty void but I truly think most of these vehicles will struggle mightily to make it to 100k w/o major failure - I already dropped 2 lifters, bent a pushrod, & had a fuel rail replaced in mine...... good lord what junk

Off topic a little, & that stance looks great....but how bad is the MPG/acceleration/braking hit w/ that setup? I had 275/60R20 BFG's & ended up swapping for Nitto Terra Grapplers in same size but P rated - like 15 lbs less per corner compared to the BFG KO2's, I think the BFG's are def the better tire but the slower pickup off the line & never going into 4 cyl mode made me think twice. I think if I got it tuned w/ a CAI that may help offset. For the OP - I have Bilstein 5100's all 4 corners, fronts @ max height (by measurements was exactly 2" - Bilstein claims 1.87" FWIW maybe it settles a little I dunno) & both the 33" BFG KO2's & Nitto Terra Grappler G2's fit fine, they "rub" very slightly @ full lock on certain angles mainly backing up & it's only rubbing the felt fender liner hence the quotes, AT tire rubber > plastic/felt fender well lines 100 times outta 100

kicked it, 2x, then let my 3 year old dump his cheerios all over the back seat while my dog ate em up

I have this too, have noticed it for some time. I have a gibson dual catback, it is 110% coming from the driver's side front manifold/cat area. I was doing a thorough cleaning of my truck over the holiday weekend & sprayed down the engine bay to get rid of all the pollen/dirt buildup see if I could notice anything. It DOES look like there may be an issue w/ the manifold/header gasket.....can't be 100% certain though....funny thing is for as long as I've been interested in cars GM's gaskets have had the reputation of being top notch (header gaskets anyhow) - I also noticed that my steering rack was heavily oxidized/rusted in like a 2-3" section only - closest to the manifold area, could be just coincidence & from heat, but seems suspicious The thing is the passenger's side didn't look all that different to me, I will get some pics & post today, this was an issue I kinda let go (I did notify dealer they couldn't find the cause either but acknowledged the noise) - the only difference I could sort of see was it APPEARS that the driver's side cat area of the exhaust looked more sooty - however it's also tougher to get a look at the passenger's side due to the placement/light. Lastly, I should also mention that the sound seemed to get louder after adding the catback, which seems counter intuitive because one would think the louder exhaust would drown out some of the exhaust leak noise (if that's what it is) - I do not think the catback could have caused/increased the noise/leak because it doesn't go up that far - the sound comes from a part of the exhaust well before the aftermarket exhaust starts. Now - it could be that the better exhaust flow reduces backpressure & causes the leak/sound to increase? My understanding is the stock exhaust flows OK minus the mufflers. It could also be that I shifted the exhaust around some when installing the catback & maybe loosened a fitting/connection up front where the leak originates from as well? Seems to be getting louder - maybe I'll just throw a CAI on it & hope it drowns the noise out some lol! Honestly - may just drop it off @ an exhaust shop, let them track down the culprit & be done w/ it. I noticed another poster mentioned increase in noise after installing catback, which leads me to believe that it may very well be a clamp/connection point.

See attached (the wheels are granite alloy 20" similar size to stock wheels) the stock blocks are 1.25" the replacements are 2.25" I think I got them from ready lift or something - there are a number of vendors that make them. Has some rake to it, doesn't ride w/ a sagging rear even w/ max payload in bed FWIW.

Yes but you'll need to swap out your rear leaf blocks to a 2.25" setup. I have this same setup on my '15 all terrain 4x4 running 275/60R20 Nitto Terra Grapplers, ride comfort is improved w/ the taller sidewall, the suspension will feel firmer w/ the front shocks @ top setting & the rears w/ the extra 1" block, but IMO not in a bad way. Handling, body roll, & ability to keep the rear from skipping around during mid corner bumps for instance is all much improved. I have had these on for 40,000 of my 50,500 miles on the truck & honestly they feel/perform exactly the same as when I first installed them - by comparison the stock ranchos were essentially completely shot after 10-11k miles. I keep the tires @ 44psi front & 42 rear, total increase in height is like just under 3" for me, so not sure if that 1.87" max increase is 100% accurate or not my truck seemed to have gained maybe closer to 2.25" + the added sidewall height. This is a no-brainer mod, do it you will have no regrets & the truck will actually look like a 4 wheel drive truck, & you'll actually be able to handle some potholes I HATE that the GM trucks ride so low from the factory & come w/ 275/55/R20's - the newer ones seem even worse especially w/ the air dam in place - I removed mine looks better & helps accentuate the added height. There was virtually no change in MPG's from what I can tell....however if you are mounting a 10 ply LT rated tire that will be a different story.

I really have no idea why you seem to be defending this crap. I've owned a G8 GT that had this AFM crap too - had to end up swapping it out for a DOD delete kit (baby cam) because the lifter tick kept getting worse....also the 6L80E tranny in that had all kinds of issues, a "harsh/flare shift TSB" along w/ a mechanical issue they ended up figuring out later in the product life cycle, something w/ the 2-3 ring seals installed backwards requiring a new tranny clutch cover kit & a whole other TSB on that one. These motors are great once you yank the AFM hardware out & tune the ECM/TCM to behave like a NORMAL V8 truck. Of course that voids the warranty, which is ironic because if you start experiencing these drivetrain issues and DONT do this it WILL end up in mechanical issues/failure. Also - not sure why in the world you think the engine wouldn't get destroyed if you just drive around w/ stuck/failing lifters - inevitably they will break, drop & damage the corresponding lobe of the camshaft...keep driving after that wipe out the rest of the cam, & if its still driving after that....well then you WILL BLOW it up, by all accounts if the lobes are damaged enough its an engine swap anyhow on GM's dime.