I disagree with the dealer. I also have a 2017. With the stock Bridgestones, there is no issue. When I put my duratrac/steelies on for the winter, I get a slight shake in the steering wheel at about 70 & it goes away by 80mph. When dealers say stuff like that, it's because they don't know how to address the issue. Get a better dealer.
How much 'all motor' do you want? You have to pick a hp/tq number and set that as the goal. Then you have to decide if your budget will handle it. Not hard to blow $20 or 30gs screwing around with stuff like this. I'd strongly suggest making damn sure you know exactly what you want, else you're going to blow your budget all to hell. IMO, you'd be waay better off dropping the 'all motor' idea and just putting a supercharger kit on it. Waaay easier, waaay less screwing around, more reliable and waaay better for the street, towing etc. Less money in the long run as well.......There are a few different supercharger options out there.
The base stock sat in the ground for millions of years. A few years on the shelf won't hurt it. Additives? They'll be fine for at least a few years....probably 10 yrs or more. I have oil 10+ yrs old that I still use in the transmission of my dirtbike. No issues. Still on the original clutch, 400+ hrs.
Vehicles are tools that come with a cost. Drive it as much as you want/need. Resale value really shouldn't be a high factor into your decision process. The 2 important questions are: Can I afford the cost of the tool? Does the tool fit my needs/wants? However, to get the most resale $$, the best hope you have is to keep it in very good shape, mechanically and cosmetically. Even with high miles, a truck that looks like new will still fetch a decent price for what it is. Vehicles in great shape with 300k miles will still find buyers. The price at that time will depend on many factors, several of which aren't related to the vehicle; fuel prices, economy, factory pricing and incentives, buyer moods, etc. It's also much better to put a lot of miles on in a short period, rather than only a few miles a year. Personally, I have a truck because I need one. I keep my truck in great shape; for me and for when I sell it, even though it has higher than average miles on it. I may keep it for 2 yrs or 5 or 10. When I sell, I'll get what I can and move to the next one. Whoever buys it will get a nice truck.
I understand and respect opinions. However, I don't agree that the Torsens need inferior fluid. I put good Mobil1 stuff in mine and it worked fine. Never an issue. They are a very clever design when you think about it. Also, they are spec'd on the Humvees, as well as many other vehicles, so I'm not really sure that mickey mouse would be a good qualifying term to use for them. For hardcore high HP mudbogging, they may not be the best choice, but for all other road requirements; snow, ice, dirt, mud, wet etc., they are a very good choice option. We don't agree on a lot, but here I will give you a high 5!
I had a G80 in my last truck. It was always inconsistent & it eventually stopped working properly. It would often stay locked up, which becomes a real PITA. I replaced it with a Torsen Truetrac, which worked much better and was always very consistent. It always worked. Always. It's also a lot more tractable and predictable. It's far from mickey mouse, as the design will work reliably after 200,000 miles... The G80 I have in my '17 is also inconsistent. It's better than the last one, but far from perfect. The inherent design of the G80 is neat on paper, but not great in the real world. It's also a time bomb, due to its design. IMO, a good test of a rear diff, is to back up a snow/ice covered grade in 2wd. That will tell you how good a posi/locker design really works. A G80 will send the rear sideways(if it even decides to engage). If it doesn't engage, you sit there. You need wheel speed to make the G80 work, which is often not a good thing on snow, as it creates ice under the spinning wheel.. A torsen will do a much better job of keeping the truck going where you want it. It works almost from 0 RPM & does a much better job of getting you going up a slippery hill. A small downside of the torsen is that it can create a shudder at low speeds as it quickly sends power back and forth between sides. No big deal & it's a small price to pay. The torsen also works fine going forwards, even if you want to screw around and hang the rear end out. It will help you do that when you want.
One option is to file a notch on one side of the end of the threaded portion, This way, if the threaded portion extends into the pan a bit, the last bit of oil can still flow thru the notch and out of the pan.
That only sorta works in the bases of the doors, etc.. It doesn't do anything for the rest of the vehicle- ie underbody, etc. It's not going to work super well in the rust belt. Granted, it's better than nothing & would be best if he mixed the liquefied jelly with the trans fluid and warmed them up to about 130 -150 degrees before applying. I use a product for doors, fenders, rockers etc. that does all that and more. I only pay $5/liter(CAD) for it & it smells like strawberries. It goes in and creeps into every nook and crevice, then partially solidifies, giving a good barrier of protection. Many cars up here rust in the strangest places & need very thorough rust prevention. For example, many Mazdas, Subarus, Ford unibody SUV's and much more, rust out in places that the video doesn't address at all. In the rust belt, the entire underbody and chassis also needs heavy duty protection, else just doing the doors, rockers and fenders is mostly a waste of time & $$
I will speak as someone that is in the cleaning products business. All car waxes will gradually strip off from normal use, environment, weather, and washing etc. Touchless car washes shouldn't be stripping wax any more than the normal rate of degradation, unless they are using too strong a mix on either their presoak or main wash, or both. That is very unlikely to happen. They are going to use the lightest mix rates they can get away with, so they can keep their input unit costs as low as possible. It's possible that you could get a dummy working at one who screws things up and sets the mix rates waaay too strong. However, it won't be long til the boss/owner figures out what's up and gets it fixed. At any rate, in the worst case scenario, you put another coat of wax on. Nothing else is likely to be harmed.
I have somewhere north of 50k miles on the OEM Bridgestone Duelers that came on my '17. The truck has nearly 80k miles, but I pull the stock wheels off and put steelies on with Duratracs for the winters. I rotate every 6000 miles. I do like the Duelers as well. They ride nice, get good fuel mileage, hold up decently well and get decent all around traction. These ones should go another 20k miles at least. I'll likely just replace them with the same tire.
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