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Nanotech Environmental

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Nanotech Environmental last won the day on March 9 2018

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  1. I wish it was as simple as that. IMO, very few CEOs (and others in the C-suite) are deserving of their pay packets. This includes MB at GM. The bigger problem is how the salary decision making process has become so corrupted over the past 50 years. The whole thing is a very shitty situation and annually steals a lot of money from shareholders. A lot of money. In a rough nutshell, it's like this (more or less): Keep in mind that almost all CEO's and C-suite members are sociopathic. Often very much so. So are the board members. Generally, C-suite candidates hire compensation consultants. Many companies do as well. These consultants sorta work along a similar vein as a union negotiator would. They continually ratchet up the salaries via the leapfrog method; Companies B, C and D are paying X, so our candidate is worth X+1. However, there is a wrinkle; The board has a compensation committee who works thru this process and the whole board ultimately decides on the salary packages. Many of the board members are often asked to join the company by the CEO- see the conflict here? They also use stock options and other 'compensation' and/or 'perk' packages as way to really scam the shareholders and grease the pockets of the CEOs etc. This process is littered with all kinds of legal scams. Then, there's the hidden scams...........(ie. if a large company announces a significant gift/donation to a 'charity', be very suspicious) They take advantage of the fact that most public companies are very widely held and nobody has effective control. When one understands how the whole thing works, it's really quite sickening. Being a CEO of GM is a tough and demanding job. It's not anywhere near 21m/yr tough. No CEO deserves more than about 50x average bottom worker salary, unless they started the company with their own money and still hold a lot of stock. (But only in certain circumstances)
  2. Please go back and very thoroughly re-read my post. EPA is not an issue & is not pertinent to the point I made. I was very clear about using full syns, not syn blends. Besides, everyone that lives in rural areas, which is the bigger part of the pickup truck market, does mostly highway miles. (it's way more than you think) This is a non issue. The good full syns do hold up very well, despite your claims. What blown engines were doing 40 yrs ago is totally irrelevant. Comparing apples to dump trucks. Everything is different now. Way different. Oils, manufacturing tech & metallurgy are light years ahead of then. As good as a chev 350 & Cam 2 or (insert late 70's oil brand here) oil was in 1979, they are shit compared to a modern 5.3 LS and Full syn oils in pretty much every way. As I also mentioned, there are very few oil related engine failures these days, unless it's a maintenance issue. The oils are simply not breaking down as you claim. Personally, I don't care that Ford engine life is only 150K. That's why I don't buy them. I was clear about the modern GM V8's, which do have reasonable and realistic 300k life expectancy. Even so, it doesn't matter, as I was very clear that the math accumulates across all vehicles, no matter how long the person keeps them. It doesn't matter if the engine only lasts 100k. It's the math that matters. I really should get into the business of selling engine oil to people that want to do accelerated OCI's. It's gotta be good $$$.
  3. What if none of the things you're worrying about is actually happening?
  4. It really shouldn't be an issue. Even with a bit of extra mechanical complexity as far as the valvetrain goes, there's nothing in there that's going to degrade the oil. The engines that are hardest on oil are high revving motorcycles that share oil between engine and the trans. They put the oil thru a lot of shear strain in the gear box, with the additional strain of dealing with a wet clutch, not to mention an engine that can spin to 12-15k rpm or more. Those forces are what kills oils. Slow revving big V8's are a walk in the park for any good full synthetic. I do the OLM intervals in my own truck, mostly because it's still under warranty. I'd have no issue extending it by a few '000km later on.
  5. Nothing wrong with going 15k mile OCI's if using a good full synthetic and a good filter & the vehicle is mostly seeing normal highway miles. (assuming everything else is in good order) Oil doesn't see a hard life in modern automotive V8 engines & good full synthetics hold up quite well for a long time. Very few engine failures these days are oil related, unless the oil/filter was never changed, or it ran out of oil. Many people are firm about changing every 3000 or 5000 or somewhere in there, saying "It's cheap insurance" ........... None of of those folks have actually done the math to see if it really is cheap insurance. Turns out, it isn't. You basically spend roughly the cost of a replacement engine over the life of the vehicle. The guy with the 10 or 15 k miles OCI's is getting the same engine life as the guy doing them at 3 or 5k miles & the 10-15k guy ends up with thousands more $ in his pocket. These numbers accumulate across all successive vehicles. Accelerated OCI's are great for the companies that sell oil, not so great for the consumer. Posted a couple yrs ago on another thread: All these modern GM v8 engines have a realistic life expected span of ~ 300 k miles when used normally. That's 100 oil changes for you high frequency guys. At ~ $40 a pop for good full synthetic, that's $4000 in oil changes. Probably a lot more for you guys paying expensive dealers to do it for you; maybe as much as $6000 or more, over the 300k life of the vehicle. This doesn't include all the extra personal time you have to invest in this. Say an hour per change - 100 hours @ how much per hour do, or did you earn? Now compare that to the vehicle done every 8000 miles; Total oil changes 37.5 Total cost at $40 each is $1500, or $2250 @ $60 plus only 37.5 hours of your personal time. The 3000 mile guy has now overspent between $2500 and $3750. Plus 62.5 hours of personal time @ ?$/Hr. That's a replacement engine right there. Jus' sayin. The math doesn't lie. To those who might argue that they never keep a vehicle that long;...... it doesn't matter. The math rolls over into every vehicle you own & keeps adding up. Over a lifetime of driving, many folks are probably spending as much as $10,000 or $15,000 on un-necessary oil changes. Great for the companies that facilitate that, but no benefit to the consumer. I find it a bit ironic that the accelerated OCI guys are essentially spending the cost of a replacement engine, while trying to avoid doing just that.
  6. I have a '17 Sierra 1500 DC 4x4 with a 5.3 and a 6 spd/3.42. It's certainly no turd. Stock, they can run into the high 14's, which is right on par or within a tenth or two of the stock EB 3.5's in the same configs. They aren't giving up anything. I expect the 19's are noticeably quicker given they're much lighter. I have a suspicion that these engines are conservatively rated, as they regularly beat the Ram 5.7 hemis which are rated at a lot more power. Now, can we please get back to discussing the positive merits of the new 2.7 turbo 4?
  7. Use a good heavy duty cleaner that does the whole job effectively, easily and safely. Don't waste money on all those fancy expensive products that just drain your pocket book. All you need is a weed sprayer, a good product (like ZOOM), a soft car wash brush, and a garden hose with a spray gun. Don't use a bucket- it's inefficient and can cause other issues. The right product will easily clean dirt, bugs, brake dust, road grime, tree sap, bird crap etc. No need for a bunch of overpriced 'specialty' products.
  8. FWIW, those engines were made in the low point of the idiotic myopic beancounter era 1970-1990. The messes created then is what ultimately caused GM to go bankrupt in 2008. Since the late 80's, early 90's it appears Engineering/Design has gradually gotten more & more of a say in things. GM powertrain has built some real classics since then. 3.8l, LS series, Duramax, and many more. If this 2.7 can go the distance, it will get added to the list. Really, the bar was set pretty low with the Ford egoboosts. All it has to do is be a bit more reliable, last a bit longer and get better mileage than those, which shouldn't be that hard, given all the troubles those motors have had.. This engine really should also go in the midsized twins IMO. That would be a great combo.
  9. Basically- Your truck is terminal (based on your description). The only way to save it at this point is with extensive surgery, hard work and $$$. Rust doesn't stop once it has started, unless it is removed. You can slow the rust down with oil spraying, but it won't stop the cancer growth. Even chemical rust converters only slow it down. If the body is as you describe, the frame is very likely in bad shape. The truck is 18 yrs old and doesn't owe anyone anything. At this point, it may be best to get what life you can from it and prepare for replacing it in a year or two.
  10. Actually, believe it or not, I didn't have you in mind when I wrote that. My bike is carbureted with a 'SmartCarb', which relies heavily on the air signal. Probably as close to fuel injection as you can get without fuel injection. It's a very clever design. No jets, no overflows & only 2 adjustments; idle and mixture. I could see it possibly causing a MAF signal issue on some vehicles if the filter is really clogged. It would take a lot for that to happen though, assuming stock filter is being used.... However, given how many aftermarket 'Cold air intakes' there are out there & that they typically use smaller (than stock) filter elements, I wouldn't be surprised if that is playing a role as well......? Also, there is a good sized %age of the pop. that has no idea what an air filter is, or that it needs to be changed or cleaned at some point: Vehicle isn't running right and tech finds the air filter loaded with 3" of dirt......... LOL That could play a role.
  11. I'd suggest that the calipers may be sticking. That would cause the rotor to overheat and extra pad wear. The caliper slide pins need regular maintenance on these trucks.
  12. Caution- this post may cause some ruffled feathers LOL. (you've been warned) IMO most people worry waaay too much about air filters. What's important is what the engine side of the filter looks like & the integrity of the intake tract. If the filter is a good filter & backside of the filter is clean and the intake tract is sealed & spotless, all is good. As filters get dirty, they become better at trapping more and more dirt, finer and finer. They actually get more efficient at cleaning the air as they get dirtier. (Even K&N filters which aren't much better than a screen door.) Eventually they lose ability to flow as this happens. However, in most vehicles, the filter has to get very dirty before it can affect engine performance. Very dirty. Very, very dirty. It literally has to have dirt heaped on it before it chokes the engine. There is a lot of excess filter surface area on folded paper filters, as well as oiled foam elements used in other applications. This surface area ensures the filter flows more than adequate air even when the filter is 'dirty'- ie. fully covered in visible dirt. On a 4t engine, the air only goes thru the valves and stays above the piston. It doesn't affect the engine as much as many think it does. 2t engines are much more sensitive to clean air. On a 2t engine the air goes thru both the bottom end and the top end. The air gets to the crank bearings, rod bearings, wrist pin, cylinder, piston. etc. Here's some counter intuitive thinking; My thoughts are that those that change filters often are (very possibly) actually causing more harm than good; Each time you change a filter, you risk allowing stray bits of dirt into the intake. This is waaay worse than leaving the filter in for a much longer time. IMO, You're better off installing a good filter, then when there's heavy visible dirt on the filter, pop the air cleaner cover off and vacuum the dirt off the filter, while leaving the filter in place. Don't disturb the sealing surface where the filter is mounted. Then do this again xx,000 miles later... & again & again. I've learned this from the dirtbike world, where filters get dirty fast & the engines are run hard. I ride a 250cc 2 stroke, primarily in the woods. I only change my air filter out once a year or so, or about every 80-100 hours. During the season, I occasionally vacuum off the heavy stuff and add more oil to the filter, while leaving the AF installed. This keeps the intake tract spotless and uncompromised. When I do change out the filter, I actually carefully remove the whole airbox and seal the carb. Once the airbox is free from the bike, I'll remove the old filter, totally & thoroughly clean the airbox and install a new filter. Here are some pics from the last AF change out: Extremely dirty filter and airbox 250cc 2 stroke dirtbike (yes, there's an airfilter in there LOL): Clean air filter backside and intake tract (tiny specs of dirt in intake tract are from when I removed the filter). See how dirty the airbox and filter are? The filter looks horrible, yet still flowed more than enough air to allow the engine to easily come on the pipe at will, with no loss of performance.. Most important is that the AF is doing its job well & everything, including the sealing surface maintained its integrity. My approach drives the conventional thinkers mad.. However........ Does it work? Yes. Here is the factory piston out of this same bike. It has 217 hrs on it. 250cc 2 stroke. I could have easily left this in for another 200+ hours. Ring gaps still at factory spec. The bike now has about 400 hrs on it. 2nd piston. Still at over 180 psi compression. Still on original bottom end. Most offroad guys I know with 250 2 strokes are rebuilding about every 80-120 hrs. They are also changing their air filters all the time, because they have been told to. IMO, on these GM trucks, if you're only driving on paved roads in mostly urban areas, the air filter will be good for a very long time. For many they can go 80-100k miles, with no issues. Who's right? All I know is that this is what works for me.
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