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Nanotech Environmental

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Nanotech Environmental last won the day on March 9 2018

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  1. What rpm is it at when at those speeds on the highway? Based on the torque curve, I'd expect that if you could run at 13-1500rpm on the highway, they should do pretty good......(assuming reasonably flat ground and no strong headwinds)
  2. Did the cap off your truck fit, or did you need to get the newer cap as well?
  3. The Dueler sidewall is probably only stiff on the larger rim sizes. I have them on 17" wheels on my '17 & they ride quite nice; quiet, smooth and good fuel econ.
  4. True. The amount of people that actually died from the Chinavirus itself is very small, probably less than 10.
  5. How did you feed the wire to the back camera? Did you lower the headliner, or find another way?
  6. Believe what you want. You can fool yourself if you like, and you might fool others. You're just not fooling me.
  7. I'd suggest it could be worse than that. Many people seem to be able to meet or beat GM's advertised fuel economy numbers. I do quite regularly. personally haven't seen that from Tundra owners.(it doesn't mean they aren't, I just haven't seen it.) The ones I have seen have reported worse than expected mileage, so the expected 100K mile cost difference might be a bunch more than what you have shown. Also, the Toyotas aren't foolproof. They've certainly had their share of issues.
  8. You mean heat cycles? , or load cycles to create high cylinder pressures to seat the rings?
  9. Doesn't matter what break-in method you use. To each his own. If you want to properly seat the rings, there is only one way & it isn't detailed in the manual.
  10. I had one that was problematic in my last truck(2006 Sierra 1500). I replaced it with a truetrac, which I bought from Summit. They're around $5-600 these days. The Truetrac is a much better unit for normal use IMO. No clunking, reliable, etc.
  11. I'd suggest that you need to work on your reading comprehension.
  12. One advantage to customer & mfr, having the same vehicle made for years on end is that they are easy to make and easy to get parts for. GM used to be like that in the 60 to the mid 80's. A brake caliper from 1968 was often the same one 10-12 yrs later. Powertrains & chassis didn't change much and were quite modular; you could mix and match quite a bit. I liked that about those vehicles. I really think that yota really needs to really step it up regarding fuel mileage though.
  13. I really don't understand which argument/debate you're engaged in here. Is it about Amsoil oils? I have no debate with you there. I've used it myself & fully agree that it's a very fine oil. You like Amsoil, I like Amsoil. What's the issue here? lol Is it about cheap low quality oils? I didn't even imply using cheap oils anywhere. Is it about maintenance? The manuals are very clear on that. I agree that maintenance needs to be done. What's the issue here? None of the failures you claim are actually oil related. I was clear about the difference between oil & design related failures in an earlier post. Are you blaming design related failures on oil? Is that the issue? The OP asked about going extended OCI with Amsoil, which is fine with me. If they do it right, they'll be fine. Amsoil will be a great oil for that. It appears that You and Grumpy seem determined to spread your fears about Mfr recommended or extended OCI's to anyone that with listen. Yes, they are fears. I just simply don't buy into your fears & there's no hard real data that supports them. Even the manufacturer of your oil of choice recommends extended OCI's. Why aren't you arguing with them? I simply and fully disagree with you on doing 5k OCI's. IMO, It's a waste of money. Decent oils & filters aren't the weakpoint here. If you want to do hi freq OCI's, more power to ya. But, recognize that it's your own stuff & keep it at that.
  14. I'd suggest that you assume a lot more than you think you do. Like I said earlier, how you do things is your prerogative. You may spend a lot of time futzing about this stuff & may even enjoy it......... Myself, I do none of that & my engine will last as long or longer than yours & I'll spend less than half the money on maintenance & less than a 1/4 of the time that you do. No money spent on lab reports, or any time worrying about them. Once my truck gets to 200k miles or so, it gets replaced with the next one. It will still be running fine at that point & will still have lots of service life left in the engine. Not sure if you noticed or not, but oil related failures are pretty rare, & almost never happen on vehicles that receive regular basic maintenance. It's been like that for a long time. A very long time. In most cases, the engines outlast the vehicle nowadays, especially in the rust belt. If the engine does fail, it's usually a design related failure. Despite your best efforts oil just isn't the weak point in the machine. Just sayin'.
  15. To each his/her own. My experience are my own, but are also supported by scads & scads of real data; both from many thousands of others, & also from oodles & oodles of scientific testing. Even Amsoil has successfully built an entire company around the concept. Like I mentioned, if people want to do high freq changes, that's their prerogative, but it just makes them a great customer for the oil manufacturer.
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