I keep them. Take a photocopy of it to give to the buyer when I sell it. Exception was the 87 Grand National I bought new. When I sold it, I gave the buyer the original sticker and I kept the photocopy.
Personally, I prefer soft roll-up style covers. They are usually the most affordable and the most versatile, plus you don't give up any bed space with them. They are also lightweight. I have a tonno-pro on my '17.
Even split. Of the last 4 hits; 2 with laser. 2 with radar. There is a seller in Canada that sells the ALP system combined with radar.
Believe it or not, they can be challenged successfully, if one knows what they're doing. I accompanied a local salesperson on 2 days of sales calls in the Greater Vancouver Area a couple years ago. The sales person doing the driving was, by far the fastest driver I've ever been in a vehicle with on public roads. We literally went in excess of 60-70 mph thru downtown Van and often over 100 mph on the highways - all the time. He only knows fast. He also carried several pieces of detection equipment in his car. I asked him how often he gets ticketed & he said he still gets beaned about 1x per month. He fights every ticket and beats them all. He described how he does it, so he seemed to know more than Pointts and Xcopper combined..... Seems like too much time fighting it all if you ask me...... For myself, I'm curious about this, as there is a lot of rural areas near where I live where the local municipalities have lowered the speed limits artificially low, waaay beyond reason. It's become an addiction for these guys. These are the only places I get beaned & I'm getting fed up. I'm not trying to drive unreasonably, but rather appropriately for the roads.
Does this protect against both laser and Radar?
Actually, there's about a 1000 reasons. If what you said is true, things like loctite, special lock washers, safety wire and locking nuts wouldn't exist. Rear shock bolts on pickups are especially susceptible to backing out, or getting loose, even when correctly torqued. The best fix is to use additional methods to secure them.
This isn't a new thing. Same thing would happen on my old '84 GMC Fullsize 4x4. Always the right side upper shock bolt would get loose. I ended up welding extra support on the frame & making many improvements so that it would stay put.
Assuming this was for me......My truck is a '17. The mirror was discounted to dealer cost, but I'd have to look up what that was. The installation was free. When I bought this truck it was missing the running boards, auto-dim mirror, and mud guards. The dealer installed them for me when I purchased the truck.
Mine was added by the dealer when I bought the truck. They brought in an outside tech they have come in 1-2x/wk for these types of jobs. IIRC It took him about an hour or so to install it on my SLE. The hardest part would likely be running the wire down to the drivers side fuse panel. I just have reg mirrors on the doors.
Yes. You'll need to drop the front left side of the headliner and remove the A-pillar cover. There's one or two small wires that need to feed down to the fuse panel on the left side. I don't recall where the wire plugs in exactly, as I'm not handy to my truck ATM. It's a relatively easy job.
Personally, I just load the bikes (1 or 2) in straight and put all the gear, etc in between them and along the sides; ramps, gas cans, boots, gear bags etc. I then run a ratchet strap between the rear lower tiedowns, thru each rear wheel & around the ramps, and use the loose end to secure any items (if needed). I have a Back Rack on my truck and drilled holes in the bed mounts for tie down points. I use these for the front of the bikes, as they work waaaay better than the stock tiedown points in the box. In 13 yrs have never lost anything, nor worried about it, headed to or from the riding area. Granted, I usually don't have to go down much in the way of rough service roads to get to the trailhead, but do have lots of highway. On some roads, there is a big advantage to having the tailgate down........... If there's 3 bikes, I use my enclosed cargo trailer.
We're talking 1-2" here, on a piece of 2x2 mild steel tube. I was very clear about there needing to be sufficient material for this to work(twice). Extensions are made from the same material. Believe me, your worries are a non-issue. We can do an engineering workup if you like.........? lol Spent 12 years working in the steel industry in various capacities & know waaay more than I care to about stuff like this. The max tongue weight is reduced no matter how this cat is skinned. (which I also mentioned) As I stated earlier, same result doing this, or using an extension. It's up to the OP anyways. So,.....Relax.
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