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Nanotech Environmental

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Nanotech Environmental last won the day on March 9 2018

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  1. The benefit you get from using any particular 'branded' fuel is generally psychological. Here in Southern ON, there are tons of brands, but only a small handful of refineries. Gas stations take fuel from wherever they can get it. I know a guy who runs a business hauling fuel & they go wherever availability is best when keeping stations supplied. There are a lot of factors at play, including maintenance shutdowns, time of year, what type of crude is being refined & other factors that can determine availability. Gas at Shell is the same as Costco, is the same as Esso, is the same as Petro Can, is the same as Mobil, is the same as MacEwen, is the same as some hole in the wall brand. It's the same in the US, as the refining is done by a small amount of companies, but they supply lots of different branded stations. I shop by price, or convenience, use 87 & always have. No issues.
  2. IMO- A lot of the worry about oil & oil change intervals is misplaced. There are also a lot of fearmongers in the oil marketing industry, as well as on these boards. There just aren't very many(if any) oil related failures these days & hasn't been for many years. These days the metallurgy, manufacturing techniques and oil are quite good and result in many modern engines going well north of 500k miles without issue. The vehicles themselves are usually the determining factor in the lifecycle, not the engines. You can take your factory oil to the recommended OCI without worry. Doing 3k miles OCI's is a waste and by doing that, over your driving lifetime you'll basically pay for the cost of several replacement engines by doing wasteful oil changes. Doing 3k mile OCI's is not cheap insurance- it's expensive insurance! Do the math. Besides, these GM engines are some of the best engines in history. They're reliable & built to last. Just use a good oil designed for your vehicle, change it and the filter when recommended & you'll be fine.
  3. Keep in mind, it's just my opinion about the salt eliminator. To each his own, but if you're spraying out your vehicle as you say, you may be getting it applied where there isn't any salt, as you would have already rinsed it away from regular washing. Just my thoughts..... Not all car washes filter water & All rinse water from car washes is clean water. If it is as you say, you'd have white/gray residue all over your vehicle when it dries & vehicles would be rusting away much faster for those that regularly wash their vehicles in the winter. It's usually only newer car washes that use reverse osmosis to filter (and re-use) some of the water they use. Personally, I wash & rinse mine each sunny warmer day in the winter at the local do-it-yourself place. The guns are flexible so you can aim them up underneath the vehicle. I then check under it in the spring and do any maintenance as needed. I don't have a hoist. I just use a couple ramps.
  4. Your 2017 most likely had an asphalt based product applied. I have this on my 2017. It's a good product, but it's far from inspection free. You have to inspect it at least 2x per year and touch up as needed. It gets damaged from hoist pads, water spray in the wheel well areas, leading edges, and other locations. The surface rust has to be removed from the damaged areas and the coating re-applied. You still need to inspect the body panels, rockers, tailgate, box sides etc. and re-apply a good creeping oil spray on a regular basis. The $999 price tag on that coating is supposed to provide a warranty as well, but that warranty is not likely to be honoured if there's a problem. Also, on mine, when the dealer applied it, I had to get them to do it twice, as the installer was lazy and didn't do many critical areas. I do the semi-annual inspections and touch-ups myself, as then I know it's done right. The factory frame wax on your '20 will not last more than 1-2 yrs in Ontario. It's really only designed to protect the frames for manufacturing, assembly, delivery and time in the dealer lot. It's not designed for actual vehicle use in the salt belt.
  5. IMHO, If you wait til spring, you've waited too long. The road salt should be removed regularly thru the winter with a thorough spray down with water. Salt eliminator from is a waste of $$, IMO. It's just mostly water and a tiny amount of ethylene glycol. IMO, you're better off to just use plain water.
  6. I use a piece of thin corrugated cardboard. It's better if it has a bit of rigidity. It also needs to stick out from the entrance by 2-3 inches. Slide cardboard under filter, until it hits the back of the housing. Pull filter out while holding cardboard in place. Then carefully remove cardboard, ensuring that no debris falls into housing. There can be quite a bit of debris on the cardboard.
  7. I use my own product; ZOOM cleaner- spray it on liberally & let it soak for a bit, then hose out thoroughly with a garden hose and spray gun. Makes cleaning them a lot easier.
  8. What rpm is it at when at those speeds on the highway? Based on the torque curve, I'd expect that if you could run at 13-1500rpm on the highway, they should do pretty good......(assuming reasonably flat ground and no strong headwinds)
  9. Did the cap off your truck fit, or did you need to get the newer cap as well?
  10. The Dueler sidewall is probably only stiff on the larger rim sizes. I have them on 17" wheels on my '17 & they ride quite nice; quiet, smooth and good fuel econ.
  11. True. The amount of people that actually died from the Chinavirus itself is very small, probably less than 10.
  12. How did you feed the wire to the back camera? Did you lower the headliner, or find another way?
  13. Believe what you want. You can fool yourself if you like, and you might fool others. You're just not fooling me.
  14. I'd suggest it could be worse than that. Many people seem to be able to meet or beat GM's advertised fuel economy numbers. I do quite regularly. personally haven't seen that from Tundra owners.(it doesn't mean they aren't, I just haven't seen it.) The ones I have seen have reported worse than expected mileage, so the expected 100K mile cost difference might be a bunch more than what you have shown. Also, the Toyotas aren't foolproof. They've certainly had their share of issues.
  15. You mean heat cycles? , or load cycles to create high cylinder pressures to seat the rings?
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