Actually, there's about a 1000 reasons. If what you said is true, things like loctite, special lock washers, safety wire and locking nuts wouldn't exist. Rear shock bolts on pickups are especially susceptible to backing out, or getting loose, even when correctly torqued. The best fix is to use additional methods to secure them.
This isn't a new thing. Same thing would happen on my old '84 GMC Fullsize 4x4. Always the right side upper shock bolt would get loose. I ended up welding extra support on the frame & making many improvements so that it would stay put.
Assuming this was for me......My truck is a '17. The mirror was discounted to dealer cost, but I'd have to look up what that was. The installation was free. When I bought this truck it was missing the running boards, auto-dim mirror, and mud guards. The dealer installed them for me when I purchased the truck.
Mine was added by the dealer when I bought the truck. They brought in an outside tech they have come in 1-2x/wk for these types of jobs. IIRC It took him about an hour or so to install it on my SLE. The hardest part would likely be running the wire down to the drivers side fuse panel. I just have reg mirrors on the doors.
Yes. You'll need to drop the front left side of the headliner and remove the A-pillar cover. There's one or two small wires that need to feed down to the fuse panel on the left side. I don't recall where the wire plugs in exactly, as I'm not handy to my truck ATM. It's a relatively easy job.
Personally, I just load the bikes (1 or 2) in straight and put all the gear, etc in between them and along the sides; ramps, gas cans, boots, gear bags etc. I then run a ratchet strap between the rear lower tiedowns, thru each rear wheel & around the ramps, and use the loose end to secure any items (if needed). I have a Back Rack on my truck and drilled holes in the bed mounts for tie down points. I use these for the front of the bikes, as they work waaaay better than the stock tiedown points in the box. In 13 yrs have never lost anything, nor worried about it, headed to or from the riding area. Granted, I usually don't have to go down much in the way of rough service roads to get to the trailhead, but do have lots of highway. On some roads, there is a big advantage to having the tailgate down........... If there's 3 bikes, I use my enclosed cargo trailer.
We're talking 1-2" here, on a piece of 2x2 mild steel tube. I was very clear about there needing to be sufficient material for this to work(twice). Extensions are made from the same material. Believe me, your worries are a non-issue. We can do an engineering workup if you like.........? lol Spent 12 years working in the steel industry in various capacities & know waaay more than I care to about stuff like this. The max tongue weight is reduced no matter how this cat is skinned. (which I also mentioned) As I stated earlier, same result doing this, or using an extension. It's up to the OP anyways. So,.....Relax.
To be clear, I meant drilling in the hitch itself, not the mount(receiver). It only works if there is lot of(read- enough) extra material ahead of the existing holes. There needs to be enough material between the old and new holes as well. (or the old ones can be welded shut) There is no change in leverage on the pin either way. The pin works in such as way that all loads on it are in shear under braking/accel. All vertical and side to side loads are handled by the hitch receiver and it's framework, which aren't affected by moving the holes in the hitch - except a small degree of extra leverage, which I addressed in my earlier post. This is absolutely no different than adding an extension, or putting in a longer hitch. The results are the same.
Not a design flaw and there is an easy solution. Get a longer hitch, or get one made, or get an extension. If there's enough room, just drill new holes for the pin, such that the hitch sits a bit further out. The gate on my '17 can hit my hitch sometimes, so I'm careful. I'm just going to take my own advice to fix it. Having a hitch that is 1-2" longer won't be an issue for hitch weight, unless you're already right at or past the limit, in which case, there are bigger problems to deal with.
I'd suggest spraying a good anti-corrosion oil in the back of the rear stake post. The kind of oil that 'creeps', yet is thick enough to adhere and stay in place. I use this one for the tailgate, box sides, rockers, cab corners and front fenders etc.; http://www.commercialoil.ca/products/view/30 Anything similar will be fine. Pop the rear tail lights out and spray it in the various surfaces in the cavity, ensuring you get the backs of the screws and holes. If any rust is going to start, it will start from back there. Repeat annually.
That is frustrating when that happens. I feel your pain.
I wish it was as simple as that. IMO, very few CEOs (and others in the C-suite) are deserving of their pay packets. This includes MB at GM. The bigger problem is how the salary decision making process has become so corrupted over the past 50 years. The whole thing is a very shitty situation and annually steals a lot of money from shareholders. A lot of money. In a rough nutshell, it's like this (more or less): Keep in mind that almost all CEO's and C-suite members are sociopathic. Often very much so. So are the board members. Generally, C-suite candidates hire compensation consultants. Many companies do as well. These consultants sorta work along a similar vein as a union negotiator would. They continually ratchet up the salaries via the leapfrog method; Companies B, C and D are paying X, so our candidate is worth X+1. However, there is a wrinkle; The board has a compensation committee who works thru this process and the whole board ultimately decides on the salary packages. Many of the board members are often asked to join the company by the CEO- see the conflict here? They also use stock options and other 'compensation' and/or 'perk' packages as way to really scam the shareholders and grease the pockets of the CEOs etc. This process is littered with all kinds of legal scams. Then, there's the hidden scams...........(ie. if a large company announces a significant gift/donation to a 'charity', be very suspicious) They take advantage of the fact that most public companies are very widely held and nobody has effective control. When one understands how the whole thing works, it's really quite sickening. Being a CEO of GM is a tough and demanding job. It's not anywhere near 21m/yr tough. No CEO deserves more than about 50x average bottom worker salary, unless they started the company with their own money and still hold a lot of stock. (But only in certain circumstances)
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