Nanotech Environmental

I've used a fumoto valve on my current truck for over 100,000 km. Best thing I ever did for vehicle maintenance. It makes oil changes so much easier and less messy. I have the nipple on mine & just run a length of rubber hose from it into a 10 liter jug to catch the old oil.

If a touchless car wash is having those kinds of issues, they are using the wrong chemical profile. There are many effective products on the market that are very gentle on the surface, or clearcoat being cleaned, but very aggressive on the dirt being removed. As far as waxes getting stripped, again, the right chemicals will not affect waxes much. Besides, wax gets stripped bit by bit from rain/wind,snow, sun, washing, etc. I never use carwashes with brushes, as they are problematic for a number of reasons.

I've checked mine a couple times and it was pretty close both times.

Heat cycles really don't do anything for an aluminum engine. It's possible they were helpful for old school cast iron blocks waaay back in the day, but serve no purpose on modern engines. Load cycles are a different story. On any fresh engine, load cycles are the only way to get the rings seated properly & you have a narrow window of opportunity to do that - about 20-30 min when brand new.

I was actually referring to my previous truck; a 2006. I used FF on it a few times, but it just couldn't handle our winter road conditions in ON. The salt spray would take it off. My current truck is a 2017 & From new, I use a combo of a heavy asphalt based undercoating and some lighter oil products inside the body work. I still have to go over everything 2x a year, but it looks nice.

My last 2 trucks have been DC's for these 2 simple reasons; It' s usually just me and/or one other in my truck. If I need the rear seats, it's still reasonably comfortable for normal sized people, for normal trips. The rest of the time, it's usually either sales materials, groceries and/or dirtbike stuff in the back. I want the 6.5' box and don't want a truck that turns like a school bus. I'm not interested in the 5.5' box, it's too small to be really useful for pickup related stuff. I use the box for deliveries, recreation and getting building supplies, among other things. I had the 5'8" box on my last truck & the 6.5 is waaaaay better. It's hard enough to park this one when in the city & going longer wheelbase would just make life tougher. This layout give the best of both worlds. I had a single cab at one time and have no interest in ever doing that again.

I have a 2017 that is very close to 100K miles; 4x4 dbl cab, 5.3, 6 spd. My sentiments are similar to yours. It has been the best vehicle I've ever owned & it still drives like new as well. Only have done fluid & filter changes so far. There was one minor recall a while back & the dealer had to re-flash the DIC once, but other than that, it's been a great truck.

Hi George- Sorry for not responding sooner- I haven't been on here for a bit. I responded to your pm.

A passive flush, which uses the transmission's own pump to do the flushing is very safe & is no different than normal vehicle operation. When flushed using an external machine- that can sometimes cause problems.

Did the cap off your truck fit, or did you need to get the newer cap as well?

True. The amount of people that actually died from the Chinavirus itself is very small, probably less than 10.

How did you feed the wire to the back camera? Did you lower the headliner, or find another way?

Believe what you want. You can fool yourself if you like, and you might fool others. You're just not fooling me.

You mean heat cycles? , or load cycles to create high cylinder pressures to seat the rings?

Doesn't matter what break-in method you use. To each his own. If you want to properly seat the rings, there is only one way & it isn't detailed in the manual.

I'd suggest that you need to work on your reading comprehension.

I really don't understand which argument/debate you're engaged in here. Is it about Amsoil oils? I have no debate with you there. I've used it myself & fully agree that it's a very fine oil. You like Amsoil, I like Amsoil. What's the issue here? lol Is it about cheap low quality oils? I didn't even imply using cheap oils anywhere. Is it about maintenance? The manuals are very clear on that. I agree that maintenance needs to be done. What's the issue here? None of the failures you claim are actually oil related. I was clear about the difference between oil & design related failures in an earlier post. Are you blaming design related failures on oil? Is that the issue? The OP asked about going extended OCI with Amsoil, which is fine with me. If they do it right, they'll be fine. Amsoil will be a great oil for that. It appears that You and Grumpy seem determined to spread your fears about Mfr recommended or extended OCI's to anyone that with listen. Yes, they are fears. I just simply don't buy into your fears & there's no hard real data that supports them. Even the manufacturer of your oil of choice recommends extended OCI's. Why aren't you arguing with them? I simply and fully disagree with you on doing 5k OCI's. IMO, It's a waste of money. Decent oils & filters aren't the weakpoint here. If you want to do hi freq OCI's, more power to ya. But, recognize that it's your own stuff & keep it at that.

I'd suggest that you assume a lot more than you think you do. Like I said earlier, how you do things is your prerogative. You may spend a lot of time futzing about this stuff & may even enjoy it......... Myself, I do none of that & my engine will last as long or longer than yours & I'll spend less than half the money on maintenance & less than a 1/4 of the time that you do. No money spent on lab reports, or any time worrying about them. Once my truck gets to 200k miles or so, it gets replaced with the next one. It will still be running fine at that point & will still have lots of service life left in the engine. Not sure if you noticed or not, but oil related failures are pretty rare, & almost never happen on vehicles that receive regular basic maintenance. It's been like that for a long time. A very long time. In most cases, the engines outlast the vehicle nowadays, especially in the rust belt. If the engine does fail, it's usually a design related failure. Despite your best efforts oil just isn't the weak point in the machine. Just sayin'.

To each his/her own. My experience are my own, but are also supported by scads & scads of real data; both from many thousands of others, & also from oodles & oodles of scientific testing. Even Amsoil has successfully built an entire company around the concept. Like I mentioned, if people want to do high freq changes, that's their prerogative, but it just makes them a great customer for the oil manufacturer.

Actually, I didn't miss your point. The way it's worded, it appears to me to be based on the assumption that the oil is likely to be dirty (and that the filter is inneffective), even though there is really no real reason to make that assumption, other than fear. It also appears that you're also assuming that one of the oil's job is to be a cleaner, when it really isn't. It's a carrier. It carries bits of whatever to the filter. The filter in essence, is the cleaner. If you want to do high frequency oil changes, that's certainly your prerogative, but it's an expensive way to maintain a vehicle. The internet is full of real data of all types that show how well modern oils work in modern engines, along with the filters, including extended OCI's. There isn't any real hard data that show that high frequency oil changes are a good idea. There is a lot of people that believe that though. They are great customers of the oil companies. My personal experience shows that extended OCI's work, are safe and a good idea. Been doing it for many years. Never an oil related issue and I've saved many thousands of $$$ in unnecessary oil changes.

This would only be a fair analogy if there weren't oil filters on an engine. Lot's of good filters out there that do a great job of cleaning the oil. Now change that analogy to mopping a dirty floor with water/detergent that keeps getting cycled thru a good filter. Extended OCI's are well proven across all kinds of different platforms. They work fine with the right oils and practices. Oil isn't cheap insurance, I've detailed that well enough on here in the past. There's really only 2-3 main things one needs to worry about with engine oils; lubricity, Shear strength & stability, and cleanliness. Get a good oil that has exceptional lubricity for your application, and that can withstand shear & heat forces for a long time, then properly filter it with a good filter. That oil will keep doing it's job exceptionally well for a long time. Modern automotive engines are actually pretty easy on oils, as they run so much cleaner than ones from the old days. The oils are also a lot better as well. Win-win. Motorcycles which share oil between the engine and trans.......that's a different story.

Is that a KTM in the back? I check my frame & underbody spring and fall & treat as needed. I don't want this one to end up like my last one. It was an 06 & was pretty rusty underneath when I sold it.

Which one did you go with?

How much 'all motor' do you want? You have to pick a hp/tq number and set that as the goal. Then you have to decide if your budget will handle it. Not hard to blow $20 or 30gs screwing around with stuff like this. I'd strongly suggest making damn sure you know exactly what you want, else you're going to blow your budget all to hell. IMO, you'd be waay better off dropping the 'all motor' idea and just putting a supercharger kit on it. Waaay easier, waaay less screwing around, more reliable and waaay better for the street, towing etc. Less money in the long run as well.......There are a few different supercharger options out there.

I understand and respect opinions. However, I don't agree that the Torsens need inferior fluid. I put good Mobil1 stuff in mine and it worked fine. Never an issue. They are a very clever design when you think about it. Also, they are spec'd on the Humvees, as well as many other vehicles, so I'm not really sure that mickey mouse would be a good qualifying term to use for them. For hardcore high HP mudbogging, they may not be the best choice, but for all other road requirements; snow, ice, dirt, mud, wet etc., they are a very good choice option. We don't agree on a lot, but here I will give you a high 5!