Everything posted by Nanotech Environmental
I've used a fumoto valve on my current truck for over 100,000 km. Best thing I ever did for vehicle maintenance. It makes oil changes so much easier and less messy. I have the nipple on mine & just run a length of rubber hose from it into a 10 liter jug to catch the old oil.
If a touchless car wash is having those kinds of issues, they are using the wrong chemical profile. There are many effective products on the market that are very gentle on the surface, or clearcoat being cleaned, but very aggressive on the dirt being removed. As far as waxes getting stripped, again, the right chemicals will not affect waxes much. Besides, wax gets stripped bit by bit from rain/wind,snow, sun, washing, etc. I never use carwashes with brushes, as they are problematic for a number of reasons.
Heat cycles really don't do anything for an aluminum engine. It's possible they were helpful for old school cast iron blocks waaay back in the day, but serve no purpose on modern engines. Load cycles are a different story. On any fresh engine, load cycles are the only way to get the rings seated properly & you have a narrow window of opportunity to do that - about 20-30 min when brand new.
I was actually referring to my previous truck; a 2006. I used FF on it a few times, but it just couldn't handle our winter road conditions in ON. The salt spray would take it off. My current truck is a 2017 & From new, I use a combo of a heavy asphalt based undercoating and some lighter oil products inside the body work. I still have to go over everything 2x a year, but it looks nice.
My last 2 trucks have been DC's for these 2 simple reasons; It' s usually just me and/or one other in my truck. If I need the rear seats, it's still reasonably comfortable for normal sized people, for normal trips. The rest of the time, it's usually either sales materials, groceries and/or dirtbike stuff in the back. I want the 6.5' box and don't want a truck that turns like a school bus. I'm not interested in the 5.5' box, it's too small to be really useful for pickup related stuff. I use the box for deliveries, recreation and getting building supplies, among other things. I had the 5'8" box on my last truck & the 6.5 is waaaaay better. It's hard enough to park this one when in the city & going longer wheelbase would just make life tougher. This layout give the best of both worlds. I had a single cab at one time and have no interest in ever doing that again.
I have a 2017 that is very close to 100K miles; 4x4 dbl cab, 5.3, 6 spd. My sentiments are similar to yours. It has been the best vehicle I've ever owned & it still drives like new as well. Only have done fluid & filter changes so far. There was one minor recall a while back & the dealer had to re-flash the DIC once, but other than that, it's been a great truck.
IMO, you shouldn't exceed about roughly ~75% of the rated tow capacity of the vehicle. Also, keep in mind that the tow ratings are assigned using just the driver and no payload.
Mine is a '17 ext cab 4x4 w/5.3 and a 6sp. Has over 90k miles on it now & It's been the best vehicle I've ever had. Replaced one front hub last year & that's been about it for mechanical stuff(it wasn't wobbling yet, it was growling for a long time, which was annoying). Still has orig brakes. Every vehicle I've ever owned has had small paint chips in all sorts of places & this one isn't any different. I keep a touch-up stick handy for that. The bluetooth can be a bit wonky occasionally. Other than the small issues noted, it's been a great truck.
A passive flush, which uses the transmission's own pump to do the flushing is very safe & is no different than normal vehicle operation. When flushed using an external machine- that can sometimes cause problems.
I would suggest that correlation, causation etc & vice-versa aren't related here. I've held a street licence since 18 and have spent a fair share of time both on and offroad. I've taken several offroad courses taught by world class riders and now spend most of my time in the woods. I've also taught offroad skills improvement courses to numerous riders. I've raced some at a mid level, but really prefer recreational trail riding. Here is some of what I've learned over the years; It takes a short time to become reasonably proficient in a very basic way to handle a bike on the street(riding sense not included). It takes about 5 years(500-1000hrs) to become well skilled offroad. The only riding skills that transfer from pavement to offroad are the most basic riding operations itself; clutch/brake/shifting. That's it. Even then, the braking has to be relearned. HOWEVER, all of the skills acquired offroad(and there are a lot of them) do transfer directly to pavement riding, massively improving the riders skills in handling a bike on pavement. This cannot be overstated. It's no accident that world class motorcycle road racers spend their practice time riding dirtbikes, trials bikes, ice racing and flattrack bikes. It's the same reason why so many dirt track & rally car drivers make great pavement racers- they learn transferable skills you just can't learn any other way. It's easier to teach girls and women to ride offroad than it is to teach guys. You can lose 5lbs and burn as much as 3000 calories in one National enduro. My worst injuries all happened in crashes at speeds of less than 5mph. Graham Jarvis probably isn't human. One needs to learn to be both defensive and offensive when riding on the street. Some of that can be taught, some is instinctual, the rest is luck and experience(if you make it that far) All the skill, sense and experience in the world can't protect you from really determined idiots in cars/trucks etc. Often, it's just luck. Stupid or overconfident riders on the street are their own worst enemies. I suggest to all noob riders that I meet, to learn to ride offroad first. It's much better for them. Not every dirt only person will be asphalt stupid. It's all in their mental approach to street riding, or driving. They also have bike handling skills pavement-only guys can only dream of. Without knowing all the details, I can suggest with good odds that your young Suzuki friend's death very likely had nothing to do with bike handling skills, asphalt or not- he had them in spades. The asphalt wouldn't be a factor. It was something else that caused the death. I rarely ride on the road anymore, as cagers these days are too pre-occupied with non-driving related things. I also get bored easily on the street, which is not a good thing, so I generally avoid riding it where possible. My road riding these days generally consists of a short hop down a back road between trails. If I crash offroad, it's my fault 99.99% of the time- even though I may try and blame it on the tree I just hit, or (insert obstacle here). lol. On the road, the %ages are reversed.
Dirtbikes & more dirtbikes. Got back in the sport at 38 after a 23 yr absence and am now 52. IMO, not many things can clear your head like a good spirited ride in the woods. It's also a relatively cheap way to blow off steam compared to many alternatives- and it's a hell of a good physical workout to boot. Dirtbikes also accidently created the impetus & foundation for my current business.
Thanks for the offer, but no. Even if I were to gather a ton of data, I know what the outcome is likely to be, so I'll save myself the effort.
No. Haven't the patience for that.
Fair enough- However, there is still a clear issue with the MPH average. There's more city driving vs hwy on some brands, which is skewing your results. The only way to get an honest result in what you're trying to achieve, is to drive the same routes with different brands a bunch of times, over a long period of time & accurately record #'s each time. Even so, the CPM number shows that you're just not getting the overall 'performance' advantage with the expensive Chevron & Mobil, vs the cheaper Racetrac and Sunoco brands.
I don't see how you come to the conclusion that Chevron is giving you better performance, going by these stats. It appears to me that you've used racetrac for all your city driving on hot days with high AC usage, Mobil for your city driving on cooler days. Chevron for moderate days with almost no AC and mostly highway & Sunoco doing both. Nothing in these stats says Chevron is giving you better performance.
You shouldn't have to struggle to get bugs off a vehicle. With the right product they should come right off, with just a gentle agitation with a soft car wash brush. ie. like this- These bugs were on this camper for a few years: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=N7DOP2dmMlg&feature=emb_logo
I had an 06 with the 5.3. I now have a '17 with the 5.3. The newer 5.3 is a much more powerful engine- no comparison. Then when paired with the newer trannys and a much better chassis, it's light years ahead of that '04. No comparison at all.
It's only just becoming avail in the US this year; ZOOM Cleaner. We have a large fanbase in the RV/Motorhome community, as those things are bug magnets. Spray it on & let it set for a bit. Longer if the bugs have been baking on for a month, or shorter if they're fresh. Agitate gently with a soft carwash brush. Rinse. Done. No hard work. Very gentle on paint and other surfaces. Enviro-friendly & odour free also. Low cost per wash as well. I use it to clean everything - my whole truck, dirtbike, trailer, house exterior, patio furniture, etc. www.zoomcleaner.ca
I'd suggest that if you think oil is cheap, perhaps sit down and do the math. Doing hi-frequency oil changes is actually quite expensive insurance, not cheap insurance. If you drive a vehicle to 300k, you're actually paying the equivalent cost of an extra engine, or at least an overhaul (more or less, depending on a few factors) by changing at 3k, rather than 8K, even though the engine didn't need all those extra changes. Modern engines and oils are good & there hasn't been very many (if any) oil related failures in many, many years. I change at the factory recommended intervals and my vehicles all go past 300k miles on the original engine.
The benefit you get from using any particular 'branded' fuel is generally psychological. Here in Southern ON, there are tons of brands, but only a small handful of refineries. Gas stations take fuel from wherever they can get it. I know a guy who runs a business hauling fuel & they go wherever availability is best when keeping stations supplied. There are a lot of factors at play, including maintenance shutdowns, time of year, what type of crude is being refined & other factors that can determine availability. Gas at Shell is the same as Costco, is the same as Esso, is the same as Petro Can, is the same as Mobil, is the same as MacEwen, is the same as some hole in the wall brand. It's the same in the US, as the refining is done by a small amount of companies, but they supply lots of different branded stations. I shop by price, or convenience, use 87 & always have. No issues.
IMO- A lot of the worry about oil & oil change intervals is misplaced. There are also a lot of fearmongers in the oil marketing industry, as well as on these boards. There just aren't very many(if any) oil related failures these days & hasn't been for many years. These days the metallurgy, manufacturing techniques and oil are quite good and result in many modern engines going well north of 500k miles without issue. The vehicles themselves are usually the determining factor in the lifecycle, not the engines. You can take your factory oil to the recommended OCI without worry. Doing 3k miles OCI's is a waste and by doing that, over your driving lifetime you'll basically pay for the cost of several replacement engines by doing wasteful oil changes. Doing 3k mile OCI's is not cheap insurance- it's expensive insurance! Do the math. Besides, these GM engines are some of the best engines in history. They're reliable & built to last. Just use a good oil designed for your vehicle, change it and the filter when recommended & you'll be fine.
Keep in mind, it's just my opinion about the salt eliminator. To each his own, but if you're spraying out your vehicle as you say, you may be getting it applied where there isn't any salt, as you would have already rinsed it away from regular washing. Just my thoughts..... Not all car washes filter water & All rinse water from car washes is clean water. If it is as you say, you'd have white/gray residue all over your vehicle when it dries & vehicles would be rusting away much faster for those that regularly wash their vehicles in the winter. It's usually only newer car washes that use reverse osmosis to filter (and re-use) some of the water they use. Personally, I wash & rinse mine each sunny warmer day in the winter at the local do-it-yourself place. The guns are flexible so you can aim them up underneath the vehicle. I then check under it in the spring and do any maintenance as needed. I don't have a hoist. I just use a couple ramps.
Your 2017 most likely had an asphalt based product applied. I have this on my 2017. It's a good product, but it's far from inspection free. You have to inspect it at least 2x per year and touch up as needed. It gets damaged from hoist pads, water spray in the wheel well areas, leading edges, and other locations. The surface rust has to be removed from the damaged areas and the coating re-applied. You still need to inspect the body panels, rockers, tailgate, box sides etc. and re-apply a good creeping oil spray on a regular basis. The $999 price tag on that coating is supposed to provide a warranty as well, but that warranty is not likely to be honoured if there's a problem. Also, on mine, when the dealer applied it, I had to get them to do it twice, as the installer was lazy and didn't do many critical areas. I do the semi-annual inspections and touch-ups myself, as then I know it's done right. The factory frame wax on your '20 will not last more than 1-2 yrs in Ontario. It's really only designed to protect the frames for manufacturing, assembly, delivery and time in the dealer lot. It's not designed for actual vehicle use in the salt belt.
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