Nanotech Environmental

I really don't understand which argument/debate you're engaged in here. Is it about Amsoil oils? I have no debate with you there. I've used it myself & fully agree that it's a very fine oil. You like Amsoil, I like Amsoil. What's the issue here? lol Is it about cheap low quality oils? I didn't even imply using cheap oils anywhere. Is it about maintenance? The manuals are very clear on that. I agree that maintenance needs to be done. What's the issue here? None of the failures you claim are actually oil related. I was clear about the difference between oil & design related failures in an earlier post. Are you blaming design related failures on oil? Is that the issue? The OP asked about going extended OCI with Amsoil, which is fine with me. If they do it right, they'll be fine. Amsoil will be a great oil for that. It appears that You and Grumpy seem determined to spread your fears about Mfr recommended or extended OCI's to anyone that with listen. Yes, they are fears. I just simply don't buy into your fears & there's no hard real data that supports them. Even the manufacturer of your oil of choice recommends extended OCI's. Why aren't you arguing with them? I simply and fully disagree with you on doing 5k OCI's. IMO, It's a waste of money. Decent oils & filters aren't the weakpoint here. If you want to do hi freq OCI's, more power to ya. But, recognize that it's your own stuff & keep it at that.

I'd suggest that you assume a lot more than you think you do. Like I said earlier, how you do things is your prerogative. You may spend a lot of time futzing about this stuff & may even enjoy it......... Myself, I do none of that & my engine will last as long or longer than yours & I'll spend less than half the money on maintenance & less than a 1/4 of the time that you do. No money spent on lab reports, or any time worrying about them. Once my truck gets to 200k miles or so, it gets replaced with the next one. It will still be running fine at that point & will still have lots of service life left in the engine. Not sure if you noticed or not, but oil related failures are pretty rare, & almost never happen on vehicles that receive regular basic maintenance. It's been like that for a long time. A very long time. In most cases, the engines outlast the vehicle nowadays, especially in the rust belt. If the engine does fail, it's usually a design related failure. Despite your best efforts oil just isn't the weak point in the machine. Just sayin'.

To each his/her own. My experience are my own, but are also supported by scads & scads of real data; both from many thousands of others, & also from oodles & oodles of scientific testing. Even Amsoil has successfully built an entire company around the concept. Like I mentioned, if people want to do high freq changes, that's their prerogative, but it just makes them a great customer for the oil manufacturer.

Actually, I didn't miss your point. The way it's worded, it appears to me to be based on the assumption that the oil is likely to be dirty (and that the filter is inneffective), even though there is really no real reason to make that assumption, other than fear. It also appears that you're also assuming that one of the oil's job is to be a cleaner, when it really isn't. It's a carrier. It carries bits of whatever to the filter. The filter in essence, is the cleaner. If you want to do high frequency oil changes, that's certainly your prerogative, but it's an expensive way to maintain a vehicle. The internet is full of real data of all types that show how well modern oils work in modern engines, along with the filters, including extended OCI's. There isn't any real hard data that show that high frequency oil changes are a good idea. There is a lot of people that believe that though. They are great customers of the oil companies. My personal experience shows that extended OCI's work, are safe and a good idea. Been doing it for many years. Never an oil related issue and I've saved many thousands of $$$ in unnecessary oil changes.

This would only be a fair analogy if there weren't oil filters on an engine. Lot's of good filters out there that do a great job of cleaning the oil. Now change that analogy to mopping a dirty floor with water/detergent that keeps getting cycled thru a good filter. Extended OCI's are well proven across all kinds of different platforms. They work fine with the right oils and practices. Oil isn't cheap insurance, I've detailed that well enough on here in the past. There's really only 2-3 main things one needs to worry about with engine oils; lubricity, Shear strength & stability, and cleanliness. Get a good oil that has exceptional lubricity for your application, and that can withstand shear & heat forces for a long time, then properly filter it with a good filter. That oil will keep doing it's job exceptionally well for a long time. Modern automotive engines are actually pretty easy on oils, as they run so much cleaner than ones from the old days. The oils are also a lot better as well. Win-win. Motorcycles which share oil between the engine and trans.......that's a different story.

I think they're fine as well, with one exception. I prefer the colour DIC on the previous gen, compared to the new version on the T1xx's. The new DIC looks older and cheesy compared to the one on my 2017.

Is that a KTM in the back? I check my frame & underbody spring and fall & treat as needed. I don't want this one to end up like my last one. It was an 06 & was pretty rusty underneath when I sold it.

Which one did you go with?

How much 'all motor' do you want? You have to pick a hp/tq number and set that as the goal. Then you have to decide if your budget will handle it. Not hard to blow $20 or 30gs screwing around with stuff like this. I'd strongly suggest making damn sure you know exactly what you want, else you're going to blow your budget all to hell. IMO, you'd be waay better off dropping the 'all motor' idea and just putting a supercharger kit on it. Waaay easier, waaay less screwing around, more reliable and waaay better for the street, towing etc. Less money in the long run as well.......There are a few different supercharger options out there.

I understand and respect opinions. However, I don't agree that the Torsens need inferior fluid. I put good Mobil1 stuff in mine and it worked fine. Never an issue. They are a very clever design when you think about it. Also, they are spec'd on the Humvees, as well as many other vehicles, so I'm not really sure that mickey mouse would be a good qualifying term to use for them. For hardcore high HP mudbogging, they may not be the best choice, but for all other road requirements; snow, ice, dirt, mud, wet etc., they are a very good choice option. We don't agree on a lot, but here I will give you a high 5!

I had a G80 in my last truck. It was always inconsistent & it eventually stopped working properly. It would often stay locked up, which becomes a real PITA. I replaced it with a Torsen Truetrac, which worked much better and was always very consistent. It always worked. Always. It's also a lot more tractable and predictable. It's far from mickey mouse, as the design will work reliably after 200,000 miles... The G80 I have in my '17 is also inconsistent. It's better than the last one, but far from perfect. The inherent design of the G80 is neat on paper, but not great in the real world. It's also a time bomb, due to its design. IMO, a good test of a rear diff, is to back up a snow/ice covered grade in 2wd. That will tell you how good a posi/locker design really works. A G80 will send the rear sideways(if it even decides to engage). If it doesn't engage, you sit there. You need wheel speed to make the G80 work, which is often not a good thing on snow, as it creates ice under the spinning wheel.. A torsen will do a much better job of keeping the truck going where you want it. It works almost from 0 RPM & does a much better job of getting you going up a slippery hill. A small downside of the torsen is that it can create a shudder at low speeds as it quickly sends power back and forth between sides. No big deal & it's a small price to pay. The torsen also works fine going forwards, even if you want to screw around and hang the rear end out. It will help you do that when you want.

One option is to file a notch on one side of the end of the threaded portion, This way, if the threaded portion extends into the pan a bit, the last bit of oil can still flow thru the notch and out of the pan.

Agreed.

Actually, there's about a 1000 reasons. If what you said is true, things like loctite, special lock washers, safety wire and locking nuts wouldn't exist. Rear shock bolts on pickups are especially susceptible to backing out, or getting loose, even when correctly torqued. The best fix is to use additional methods to secure them.

This isn't a new thing. Same thing would happen on my old '84 GMC Fullsize 4x4. Always the right side upper shock bolt would get loose. I ended up welding extra support on the frame & making many improvements so that it would stay put.

Personally, I just load the bikes (1 or 2) in straight and put all the gear, etc in between them and along the sides; ramps, gas cans, boots, gear bags etc. I then run a ratchet strap between the rear lower tiedowns, thru each rear wheel & around the ramps, and use the loose end to secure any items (if needed). I have a Back Rack on my truck and drilled holes in the bed mounts for tie down points. I use these for the front of the bikes, as they work waaaay better than the stock tiedown points in the box. In 13 yrs have never lost anything, nor worried about it, headed to or from the riding area. Granted, I usually don't have to go down much in the way of rough service roads to get to the trailhead, but do have lots of highway. On some roads, there is a big advantage to having the tailgate down........... ? If there's 3 bikes, I use my enclosed cargo trailer.

???

I have a '17 Sierra 1500 DC 4x4 with a 5.3 and a 6 spd/3.42. It's certainly no turd. Stock, they can run into the high 14's, which is right on par or within a tenth or two of the stock EB 3.5's in the same configs. They aren't giving up anything. I expect the 19's are noticeably quicker given they're much lighter. I have a suspicion that these engines are conservatively rated, as they regularly beat the Ram 5.7 hemis which are rated at a lot more power. Now, can we please get back to discussing the positive merits of the new 2.7 turbo 4?

Use a good heavy duty cleaner that does the whole job effectively, easily and safely. Don't waste money on all those fancy expensive products that just drain your pocket book. All you need is a weed sprayer, a good product (like ZOOM), a soft car wash brush, and a garden hose with a spray gun. Don't use a bucket- it's inefficient and can cause other issues. The right product will easily clean dirt, bugs, brake dust, road grime, tree sap, bird crap etc. No need for a bunch of overpriced 'specialty' products.

FWIW, those engines were made in the low point of the idiotic myopic beancounter era 1970-1990. The messes created then is what ultimately caused GM to go bankrupt in 2008. Since the late 80's, early 90's it appears Engineering/Design has gradually gotten more & more of a say in things. GM powertrain has built some real classics since then. 3.8l, LS series, Duramax, and many more. If this 2.7 can go the distance, it will get added to the list. Really, the bar was set pretty low with the Ford egoboosts. All it has to do is be a bit more reliable, last a bit longer and get better mileage than those, which shouldn't be that hard, given all the troubles those motors have had.. This engine really should also go in the midsized twins IMO. That would be a great combo.

I'd suggest that the calipers may be sticking. That would cause the rotor to overheat and extra pad wear. The caliper slide pins need regular maintenance on these trucks.

Almost 75k miles, 2017 Sierra 1500 4x4. Pads and rotors still have lots of life left. Might go 140-150k. Never had brakes go near this long on any vehicle I've owned, not even close & I try to be easy on brakes. Truck still stops real fast when I want it to. When it comes time to replace, I'll just put the factory stuff on again. Why mess with a good thing?

Your comparison to national averages means nothing, as personal averages are a local thing. If you lived in the LA area where traffic is always heavy, you'd be quite a bit below the averages, no matter what you do. Same as in the GTA. It's all fine and dandy to put all the effort into doing what you do, but I can guarantee that you are 'that guy' pissing everyone else off on the roads on a daily basis. You really belong in a Prius, not a pickup truck. At least it would be honest then. Now, since you admittedly don't like the new 2.7 & given that this topic is 2.7 turbo fan club, perhaps your energy would be better spent elsewhere........Jus sayin'

The poster this likely refers to only claims that because he's driving a singlecab base model, never tows, or hauls payload & he never goes over 55mph. I'd ignore his claims as they are apples to oranges & they're simply unrealistic for normal use. I can get those numbers in my '17 5.3 4x4 dbl cab, but I have to drive about 40-50mph steady on flat ground with no headwind. I've done it over a 60 mile average, but again it's not realistic. (it was in a long construction zone on a highway) I think these new 2.7 liter motors are built pretty stout and will likely handle tuning up over 450hp without a problem, so I'd ignore the naysayers on that as well. Left stock, they aren't going to 'pop' any more than a Honda 4 banger. Glad to hear your experiences with the new 2.7. I've been thinking about it as a possibility for my next truck. I drive a fair bit & don't do a lot of heavy towing and would like to save a bit on fuel if I could. On paper it looks like it might meet my needs. However, it won't happen for a couple years at least.

I put one on my truck & love it. So much less mess when changing oil. I have to change oil in my driveway with no hoist. With the drain bolt, I always ended up with a mess no matter what I did. With the fumoto valve, I run a hose into a 10 liter jug & get no mess at all. If a guy is going to forget to close a Fumoto valve, he'll also forget to re-install and or tighten a drain bolt. It makes no difference. At least with the fumoto valve you can shut it off in a second. It's also nice for drawing an oil sample when you want.