UofAZCats

Will it be possible to upgrade from HMI 2.0 to the 3.0? If so what would be needed for that conversion? It sounds possible but I figure it makes sense to ask.

I have the 2015 version of the radio without Android Auto/Carplay. Which parts of this version would I need to replace on mine (after reprogramming)?

I bought a cargo bed bar on Amazon that works great for holding things in place. It does not have a net but if you put the small items in a box or set the bar low enough it will hold things in place. I have a box that I put in the back to hold my miscellaneous small items that I don't want loose in the bed and this has worked well for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JL0QZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is this Android Auto/Carplay capable? How much?

I have factory heated seats but, living in Florida, I really want cooled seats. With this reprogramming what else would I need to make cooled seats happen? I would expect I would need the button set up and the heat/cool module. Anything else? Am I able to use my existing seats?

Why are you selling it? Did it improve your ride? I might be interested but I am not thinking about the Roadmaster Active Suspension based on reading another members experience and what that provides versus the sway bar.

I looked into these about 6 months ago and there isn't much left for the 14-15 front. Keep in mind the sides and rear of the 14-15s is the same as the 16-18s. Air Design (https://airdesignusa.com/products/street-series/silverado-1500.html) has some nice stuff that looks great. They produce the kit that was put on the SCA Performance RC Silverado found in this Youtube video The sides and rear are still available but unfortunately I can't find the front bumper anywhere otherwise I would jump on this. My truck is lowered 2/4 and this kit would really make it look sharp. If you have any luck please let me know.

Thinking about putting on a rear sway bar. The Hellwig 7735 is the primary choice. I am concerned reading in a couple of places that there are issues with fit in certain situations. My truck is lowered 2/4.5 ish. I have the stock exhaust. I have read a review that indicated an issue with the spare tire and another that said it had an issue with the stock exhaust. I am sure none of these were from lowered truck owners. Anyone have any issues installing this bar in this situation?

Either way I highly recommend their forum. If you get one of their products be sure to check out the video associated with the product on how to use it. If I weren't in Minnesota along the Canadian border fishing this week I would certainly be spending my holiday washing my truck.

I checked Adams because they are a sponsor for the site and I visited their website. They have a forum that was really educational in explaining the many differences in types of products and when to use them. Their videos were helpful as well. After trying out some of their basic items I was impressed enough to keep with them. Their H2O Guard and Gloss is a life saver in Florida. Water spots suck and H2O GnG takes care of that problem. Adams is working for me so I haven't bothered to go looking at other products.

Any word on this revised kit? I just checked your website and it say it is being revised. Since your post was June of last year I would have guessed that the kit revision was completed by now. Any updated is appreciated.

My baby is red not black but red is just behind black in terms of showing dirt. I put way too much time into keeping mine clean as I figure the main reason for getting red or black is because it looks so good when it is clean. If I didn't care what it looked like I would have gotten the silver, white or other color that doesn't show dirt so much. For me, with the kids out of the house, my truck is more a hobby and washing it gives me something to do with it. I wash my truck at least once a week assuming it has gotten dirty, which in central Florida is a given especially during the rainy season which typically runs from January and December. I use primarily Adams polishes products. I don't do 2 bucket wash unless she is really dirty. I don't do any off-roading so she is typically never really that dirty. I use the Adams drying chemicals like H2O Guard and Gloss or Spray Wax which are life savers in terms of avoiding water spots which are the bane of a car washers experience. If not using those I use drying towels to dry her and then use a small blower to get the water in the joints, mirrors, wheels and grill. I heard from many that leaf blowers are bad to use. I tired it once and the biggest pain was that it was very clunky blowing off the roof, hood and bed cover and damn loud.

For Father's Day I painted my front bumper. I had previously plasti-dipped my front bumper in red as noted above. unfortunately it got a ding on the very tip of the bumper from when I didn't back into the garage far enough and the garage door dinged the tip scrapping off a small section of the plasti-dip exposing the chrome underneath. While planning to fix that issue I decided I wanted to try to paint over the plasti-dip to try to color match the paint. The color is not perfect but much closer. The finish is a little too matte. I put on two coats of the Dupli-color clear over the top of the Victory Red paint. Not sure if I need to add more clear or a better clear coating or what. I am happy with it now but I was panicking a little yesterday. I put on 3 cans worth of the touch up paint but each time I finished with a coat the red would get cloudy white looking almost like it would have if I sanded it. It has been rainy and humid all last week and apparently the white was due to the humidity. I put on the clear on it still looked cloudy. After a little Google/Youtube research I found that the cloudiness was most likely due to the humidity and could be solved with my heat gun. Half an hour later I was much happier. I am going to try polishing it next week to see if I can get more gloss out of the clear. Took the following pictures today (almost 20 hours after the last coat).

Been awhile since I posted. I did finally get the truck at a level I liked. The post above shows it at its lowest which was well below where I wanted it. I finally got it adjusted to approximately a 2/5 drop and I think it looks great. I won't go into the whole saga with this since I covered most of it in the Lowering thread while I was going through it. I ended up using Belltech drop spindles to lower the front end and a flip kit in the rear. As I noted above I initially had the Inez lower control arms installed but the drop was more than I wanted in the front and the front wheels really moved backward in the wheel well which was no supposed to have been the case. I ended up having the OEM lower control arms reinstalled and added the drop spindles to get the drop I wanted and this also reduced the amount the front wheels shifted back. Its perfect with the exception of the front wheels shift rearward. Picture below gives a view of my ride now. The turning radius has been hampered somewhat to avoid rubbing and while I have gotten somewhat used to it I would really like to have the OEM turning radius. The upper control arms are the controlling factor based on discussions with my guy at the alignment shop. Nasty recommended Twisted Metalworkz camber correction control arms to replace the OEM upper which would allow the wheel to be moved back forward. Saving up my pennies to get that done and hopefully be finished with this issue.