UofAZCats started following A/C Condenser, GMC Sierra 20" OEM All Terrain Wheels Set of 4 SOLD, Used 2017 Sierra Denali Power folding/heated mirrors rpo DL3 and and 4 others
I had the same issue but it lasted longer then 3 seconds before blowing hot. It was random as heck and so I took a long time before I bit the bullet and had my mechanic fix it. The actuator is deep in behind the dash and requires taking the whole dash off. The part was something like $40 but the labor was what got you because getting to it was a long process. I think the total bill was something like $500-600. The amount of labor was what kept me from giving it a shot. Good luck with it.
My 2005 suburban doesn't have fender rust issues but on the hood several of the rock chip spots started to rust. I just used naval jelly (Lowe's has it) on them this weekend and it worked great. Directions were simple too. Just get rid of as much surface rust as possible then brush in the jelly. Let it sit 5-10 minutes and then rinse away. Once it dries cover the spots with touch up paint. Under your new fenders no one will see thepaint job so you can apply generous amounts of paint to hold off the issue. Looks like you'll probably want to scrap away the bubbled paint and get the rust under that as well. Won't stop the issue but certainly allows you to kick the can down the road.
For Christmas I got the Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) to add to the leaf springs to help with roll and traction. I haven't put it on yet because the system is designed for trucks without flip kits. The system is connects the rear end of the leaf spring (which is not affected by the flip kit) to the middle section of the springs just in front of the axle. With the axle sitting on top using a flip kit there is nothing for the front of the RAS to grip. I think it will work if I put the stock 1.5" blocks in on the bottom side of the leaf springs. Assuming the U-bolts are tensioned properly I don't think it would be a problem. Anyone with experience or thoughts on this? I would test this but I can only find one stock block from when I had the flip kit put on the truck. Anyone have an extra stock block they could spare? I want to use the stock blocks because they have the ridges on the ends which will hold them in place instead of sliding. Hoping someone can help a lowered Chevy brother out.
Thanks for the response and information. Certainly thanks for that video. On of the best I have seen on repairing our trucks. Gave it a big thumbs up. A guy I work with directed me to someone he works with that had done a condenser repair on his wife's car on the side. I talked with him about the problem and he is going to fix it for me tomorrow for $300, out the door. Can't pass that up given the condenser part, vacuum and recharge costs totaled are that much.
I am at about a 4 to 4.5" drop on my truck. To get lower than the combination of removing the block and using a drop shackle on its lowest setting you will need a flip kit. You won't regret it. If you do it you'll need to drop your front a little to be level (unless you want the nose in the air). There is a great thread on lowering trucks stickied on the Mods forum for our model trucks that is really long but certainly worth a read. I went all the way through it before dropping my truck. Sometimes it can be hard to get a clear understanding but if you are unsure post a question on that thread and you will get a response.
My AC went down on my 2015 at about 57K miles. Took it to a local shop that is usually pretty cheap and they want $900 for the condenser replacement. Called the dealership to see if they would be reasonable about this in light of this epidemic but they wanted $1,000. Thinking about doing this myself after watching the video. Before I do, for the guys that have done this themselves, I have a few questions. Looking at the reviews on Amazon for the condenser there is an issue with the condenser being bent or the lines on the sides being bent. Anyone have this problem with condensers they bought at a store in person as opposed to shipped? Autozone wants $150 for a Spectra condenser but Amazon charges only $90. The bending issue is a concern because I have not done anything like this on my truck before and I don't want to damage the condenser. The second question is regarding the seals he mentions in the video for the AC lines. He recommends putting on new seals for those but doesn't give a link for them. Anyone have a link for those? Next question is regarding the recharging and oil. I assume from what I read that most people are having that done by the local shop pulling vacuum for them but want to confirm that is the case. Last question is regarding driving the truck after the new condenser is installed but before the vacuum and recharge are done. I assume that I need to drive it with the AC off in order to avoid a problem, correct? Thanks for any help you can give me.
Damn that looks good! Not sure why you too much motivation. Truck is coming along great.
Not that familiar with the intricacies of transmissions, but if you can delete the transmission thermostat then why did GM include it? What is its purpose? I would think its job is to keep the the tranny cool but that seems to be the opposite of what it does. Just trying to learn about this so any info is appreciated.
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