mjw930

I was told by Steelcraft the body bolt mount for the 2014 was not an option. They originally listed body bolt mounted bars then changed to the panel mount based on information they received from GM. Something to do with the way the body mounts to the frame on the 2014's that GM says prevents using those bolts to mount steps. This was told to me by a guy at Steelcraft, I have no other confirmation. I just know they used to sell body bolt mount steps for 2014's but no longer do.

Interesting because the double cab has the same mounting points as the 07-13 extended cab.

In searching for an inexpensive set of side steps I decided on the SS 3" bars sold under the Ionic brand. The are basically the house brand of AutoCustoms/running board world, etc. (lots of branded websites, they are all really the same company). They are actually made by Steelcraft. Anyway, they are advertised as 304 SS with 90 degree bends and body bolt mount which is a very solid and clean mounting method. So, with an $188 price they seemed like the best, low cost option. Well. They showed up yesterday and instead of 90 degree ends that mount to the body bolts they have 45 degree ends and use the factory rocker panel mounting brackets. It's the same part number bit it now says it works on '07 - '14 extended/double cab Silverado/Sierra 1500's. After a call to Auto Customs and eventually Steelcraft it turns out there is some reason the body bolt mounting system is not compatible wit h the 2014's even though they originally had them mounted, photographed and instructions printed showing that method. I'm waiting for a call back from Steelcrafts engineer but he was at SEMA all week so I expect a call back next week. So, I just wanted to let everyone know that it looks like rocker mount is the only type of boards appropriate for the 2014's. Don't be mislead by some websites.

It's interesting you would say that. I know there's a lot of opinions on this and other forums. Many saying to use new and just as many saying they didn't and nothing bad happened so I did a search looking for what I would consider a reliable source and came up with this: HOWEVER, read the following transcript: SO, since removing the block moves the nut 1" further up the threads you are using virgin threads and should be able to apply the proper torque and have that torque retained. Of course, if you decide to go back to using the block then you need new bolts because you will be back into the area of the threads that were deformed by the original installation. No new bolts needed for this operation, only if I go back to using the blocks. The re-torque after two weeks perplexes me. Are there guys running around dealer lots re torquing u-bolts? How is it the factory can install them and they are good for years but I need to re-torque? Perhaps this is due to the explanation above where old parts wear different than new, which seems a bit far fetched to me AND I doubt the movement on the bolt would be more than a few hundreds so you aren't going to get into any significant "new" threads as mentioned above. Since the Truck is all of 2 weeks old I don't think the old parts vs. new is an issue but I will check just to see if there's any truth to the legend. Has anyone who's played around with u-bolts ever seen them loosen up after a few hundred miles or is this more urban legend than sound engineering?

Thanks guys, I may get to it this weekend, if the to do list isn't too long

I'm looking for the best way to lower the rear of my 2014 2WD 1500 about 1.5". That will still give it about a 1.5" rake which should mean level when I'm towing. I considered drop shackles but was reading about removing the rear lift plate that's between the axle and spring. My question is can the leaf spring sit directly on the axle or is some sort of spacer / bushing required for proper alignment and isolation?