Thread resurection warning Just swapped out 20" Conti's for Michelin LTX M/S2 and am very happy. The Conti's were OK until they got some heat in them or you aired them up past 34 lbs, then there were horrible on the highway. Not so much vibration as shuttering over every imperfection, very harsh. I first tried Nitto 421Q's (SUV tires, looking for better ride), that was a huge mistake. Aside from 2 of them having radial runout they were way too harsh. Swaped into the Michelin's and now it's close to perfect. One big difference I notice is around town. The Conti's were very soft around town, gave the truck a floaty ride which is what I supose GM was going for. The Michelin's pick up a bit more road imperfections but give me a more connected feel. What's impressive is they soak up the bigger bumps but I feel the little things, it's counter intuitive. On the highway they are golden, no vibration past 90mph and track straight and true. The Michelin's are the most expensive @ ~$225 / tire but they are worth every penny.
Yes, the put some stress on the frame but they remove stress from other parts. The best thing to take into account is GM specifies WD hitches with anything over 500 lbs tongue weight and all the SAE specs for hitches also provide a rating with and without WD, the top number is ONLY with WD. This is proven technology with millions and millions of miles under it's belt, don't let some shade tree mechanic's somewhat limited knowledge of vehicle dynamics trump real world enginerring, do the WD hitch.
I pull a 16' V-Nose trailer set up to haul our bikes. It's right around 20' long nose to tail, comes in around 5000# loaded with 800 lb tongue weight (tried to move bikes more to the rear but it is what it is). I use a Reese WD 10000/800 with integrated sway control and used it when I was towing with a 2011 Jeep GC and a 2012 Jeet SRT8. Both pulled it fine and the WD hitch made it a piece of cake. I've only pulled it once with the Silverado (5.3 w/3.42 rear) and I actually reduced the amount of preload on the WD by one setting. I get 1.25" drop in the rear, front stays where it was. Without the WD it was a 2.25" drop in the rear and a .75 rise in the front. It pulls like a dream. With the shorter wheelbase Jeeps anything over 70 was tough if there was any cross winds. With the truck I looked down and was doing 80 and didn't even realize it. The 2014 5.3 / 3.42 pulls this amount of weight and length perfectly, I couldn't be happier with my purchase. BTW, I went with a Teconsha P2 controller with their cable since the truck wasn't ordered with the built in (bought off the lot). So far it works great so I ended up saving $150.
I just installed the Chevy version and yes, it looks like the holes are a bit oversized but when you crimp the rivnut it captures it just fine. Be forewarned, the bolt, nut and washer home made tools posted all over the Internet DO NOT WORK. The supplied rivnut's are steel and the home made tools only work correctly with aluminum rivnut's. Either purchase or rent the proper tool or see if your dealer can install the rivnut's for you. Or, simply bag the rivnut's and use a sheet metal screw, it will hold just fine. This tool works well for the price. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KLVJAA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Did you just remove them or replace them? I was looking at mine and with the blocks removed I won't be able to get a deep socket on the nut with the extra length of the u bolt. Did you use shorter u bolts or a crows foot to torque them?
I was told by Steelcraft the body bolt mount for the 2014 was not an option. They originally listed body bolt mounted bars then changed to the panel mount based on information they received from GM. Something to do with the way the body mounts to the frame on the 2014's that GM says prevents using those bolts to mount steps. This was told to me by a guy at Steelcraft, I have no other confirmation. I just know they used to sell body bolt mount steps for 2014's but no longer do.
Here's what the supplier site says for the following truck. In addition to the $2000 customer cash listed I think ther is another $1000 or $1500 worth of additional discounts depending on where you live. MSRP Standard Vehicle Price: $49,965.00 Installed Options Total: $2,725.00 Integrated Trailer Brake Controller: $230.00 Engine: 6.2L, V-8, Flex Fuel, SIDI, Active Fuel Mgt: $1,995.00 LPO - Wheel Locks, set of 4: $50.00 Driver Alert Package: $450.00 Destination Freight Charge: $1,095.00 Total MSRP: $53,785.00 Supplier Price: $50,126.96 Consumer Cash: -$2,000.00 You Pay: $48,126.96
So, I wonder how dealers stay in business making all of $800 on a $55000 sale? Car sales has to be about the worst margin business in the world. And don't go on about how they make it up in service or used sales, it's still a pitiful margin, one that no other business is willing to operate under. I guess what I'm trying to say is if the dealer is willing to go that low there's other money in bonuses and such we never know about. Or said another way, MSRP and Invoice are just smoke screens.
Well, if you are using supplier pricing then you are looking at the wrong side of the invoice. Supplier pricing is on the right, it's the price you start from then subtract all incentives, including factory to dealer that you won't find on car sites. I just bought a Silverado LT with a $36860 MSRP for $30765 + $75 program fee. $34265 - $3500 on various rebates and incentives. $1000 customer cash $500 package incentive (not the $750 package discount, that was already factored into the MSRP) $1000 trade-in assistance $1000 GMS cash Remember, this was 1 month ago and rebates are regional. I made out ok, didn't pay any of the advertising fees and the dealer will get their holdback plus a small stipend. Oh, and I didn't have to pay the $699 dealer fee that everyone else pays (or at least sees it on their sales order, I know you can get out without paying it but the dealer has to take it off the top first under FL law)
IMR and LMA are group advertising fees that the dealer pays to the manufacturer. Not all dealers participate but most do. It's not additional profit for the dealer, it goes directly back to GM to fund local and regional advertising. You don't say what state you are in but many regulate what the dealer can and can't charge for prep, doc or other fees. Here in FL the law says, if you charge a dealer fee to one person you MUST charge the same fee to everyone. Most FL dealers charge between $400 - $900 in "dealer fees". The only way you get out of paying those fees is by using employee or supplier pricing, most local laws allow for that as an exception. It's the same for the LMA and IMR fees, GM waives those fees to the dealer under these programs so you don't pay it.
I agree, there's a ton of rake in the stock suspension but since I bought it to tow I'm hesitant to lower it until I sort out my hitch. Once I see where it sits then I'll decide how much to drop it, if at all.
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