Zasker1

Just installed 275/60r20, K02's 2 weeks ago. I did tighten the torsion keys 1/4 higher than stock. And there is some minor rubbing on full lock on the wheel wall liner but no metal on rubber contact. They look great on the truck but I'm honestly regretful as they have a very loud hum between 25 and 45 mph. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

This is a straight plug and play. I had them on my Sierra 1500 for 4 years without any incident. They draw 22w each, which is less than any 5202 halogen bulb Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

We had a thunderstorm a few weeks back here in Dallas and while driving down a country road at 35 miles per hour, I came within about two feet of hitting a down tree because the headlights in these truck suck. I did an FXR conversion in my previous Sierra so I know there it's certainly an opportunity to improve the stock headlights considerably I swapping out the projectors and upgrading to a 45 or 50 watt HID kit. there's some point in the future I'll upgrade the stock headlights but for now I decided to focus on some dedicated, off-road / severe weather lighting: 1. DD SS3 Pro fogs - 80 degree wide beam pattern 2. BD onX6+ 10 inch - 42 degree wide beam pattern 3. DD SS3 Pro spot - 6 degree spot beam pattern Observations: 1. I have owned the rigid SAE fog lights, and a friend of mine has the BD Squadron Pro's. No contest the DD SS3 pros, are significantly brighter. A. I chose to go with a selective yellow color vs white and it's impossible to describe how much more detail there is with a yellow light. ( The fogs I pulled off of my 2014 Sierra, and the spots were bought off of Facebook marketplace for cheap) B. They are brighter then the BD Squadron Pro's & about $100 less. C. The spot pattern is a bit tighter at 6 degrees vs. the BD 9 degree. D. If I could do it over again I would have bought the driving pattern (18x8) as the 6 degree beam of the spot is very narrow, which is not as useful for truck driving down country roads at 50mph vs a prerunner going 110mph through the desert. E. The DD build quality feels good however I did strip one of the screw holes when swapping bezels using just my hand. The screws are SS but the bezels & housings are made of a cheap cast aluminum. F. The color difference between lights is pretty close at 2900 vs. 3200K. but you can tell there's a difference which is a small anoyance. 2. The BD onX6+, is simply the brightest SR light you can get at 12.4k effective lumens per 10" section. If I could have fit a 20" or 30" I would have, however I wanted everything to look as factory as possible. I suppose if you don'tdn't mind cutting into the plastic where the parking assist sensors are mounted you might be able to fit a 20-inch bar but it would involve a lot of hacking, cutting, and relocating sensors, since the stock opening is only 19+" inchs wide and you would need about 22" A. BD makes an awesome lower grill mount that lets you install a variety of lights. If I had a bigger budget I would have gotten three XL80s, 2 in yellow + 1 white but they are over $400 each. B. I have included a few photos courtesy of BD of a 3 XL80 setup. (9500LM each) C. The mounting bracket is like 1/8th inch steel, certainly the stoutest bracket I have seen. The install was not very intuitive but once you have it in place it is solid. D. Overall I'm pretty happy however I certainly realize that to take advantage of the full potential of these lights I need to have the mounted higher up on the vehicle. 3. Next project is to grille mount a 20in BD S8 in white and wire it to trigger with the brights. Not quite sure how I will make this work as most of the pre-made brackets assume you're installing a 30in light bar, and I want a slightly longer bracket as I'd like the bar to be flush mount to the grill, instead of behind it. If you like a picture number 8 you can see where there is a light bar behind the grill, I plan to bring mine for words to in simply cut one of the horizontal bars out of the factory grill, similar to what you see in photo 13. Note: I have not seen any increase in transmission temperatures however I have yet to tow heavy with this setup Who else has mounted some lights in the lower grille? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Sorry it looks like some of the photos failed to load Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

What size tires are you running on your setup. I just bought a 2016 LBZ, it has 265/60r20's on it at present, but I would like to put a 275/65 r20 on it. The 265's look a bit too narrow I'm hoping the increase in aspect of a 65 will give me a little bit better ride quality. The truck has 85k on it so I was going to go ahead and replace the junk rancho shocks with fox shocks, turn the keys up 1.25 in and call it a day. Unfortunately the aftermarket rims I believe have a zero offset so they're already sticking out a little bit in fact as you can see from the pictures the 265 just about rubs.. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Send me some sound clips Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I did look at RockAuto they don't stock this part. I ordered from GM parts direct but they wants three weeks to deliver it which seems absurd, they did offer 3 day delivery but wanted $140.00 for shipping which is ridiculous. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Yes definitely better ride but I'm bummed that finding a new top strut mount to such a difficult task finally found one on Amazon but they want a hundred bucks for next day shipping or free shipping but I have to wait 14 days Very surprised that summit doesn't stock this part Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Finally got the right parts for my truck installed and they lasted all of 3 days before this happened Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Yes I have already ordered the parts and I did take the time to call the original installer who told me to go pound sand when I brought it to their attention that they did not install the parts that I had purchased on my truck Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Just as a quick update I had an opportunity to talk to Bilstein today and indeed the valving is significantly different between the GM 900 parts and the correct parts 4 the K2 trucks. Below is a brief summary of the differences Front: 24-186940 vs. 24-238304 1. Rebound: -1000n (-225lbf) 2. Damping: -100n (-25lbf) 3. Shock body is .5 shorter 4. Snap ring locations are higher on the body Rear: 24-186742 vs. 33-238319 1. Rebound: -200n (44.9lbf) 2. Damping: -200n (-44.9lbf) 3. Shock is .75 shorter, thus overextended Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

No no this is not an issue with Summit they sold me the correct parts I am simply saying the installer which was a retail location in Phoenix, apparently installed the wrong parts or someone else is parts but not what I had brought with my vehicle Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I can't even begin to describe how frustrated and embarrass I am at this moment. When I originally had my 5100's set-up installed 3 years ago, I bought the parts directly from Summit about a week after they were made available, however after having them installed it simply never even occurred to me to actually check the part numbers since I Supplied the installer with the parts. ( Top rated 4 x 4 shop in Phoenix Arizona). Last night while installing my powerstop z36 brake kit I started really staring at the part stickers on my shocks and after a bit of research realized that the parts that I paid for we're not the parts that were installed and I have been driving around for 3 years with the wrong parts. Certainly a brave keyboard Warrior will likely flame me stating that I should have figured this out sooner however I had them on their highest setting for quite a while and figured that the miserable ride was due to me having the front adjustable shocks at their maximum setting, thus I have simply tolerated it until recently when I had them moved to the next lower snap ring setting and the harsh ride continues. I have studied the part numbers for hours on end on a plethora of websites and there is really no good detail to help correlate what the differences are beyond the fact that the rear shocks are a bit shorter by about an inch. I guess I will have to call Billstein during their normal business hours, to figure out how big of a problem this really is or if the differences are actually inconsequential. Current Front: 24-186940 ( pre 05 - 2013 trucks) Current Rear: 24-186742 ( For GM 900 ) Correct parts for our 2014: Proper Front: 24-238304 (Adjustable) Proper Rear: 33-238319 Could one of my Texas brothers please come over and just shoot me in the head... LOL. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

So I raise the shock perch to the third highest setting over the weekend and I'm now sitting at just under 38 in on both sides, and at 40 in the rear with Cooper AT3 275 70 r18's (39psi) So then drove from Dallas to Houston and before I even got halfway there I literally found myself getting nauseous from the vibrations as I feel almost everything as I drive the truck certainly feels more planted when going down a country road then on the second setting but hit any kind of bump or expansion joint on a bridge and the impact is enough to make the headlight Shake, music playing over an SD card pauses for 3 seconds, like back in the day when you hit a bump in your CD player with skip. I'm not sure what to do at this point as the second lowest setting does not provide enough rebound but the 3rd setting seems as harsh as the fourth. The front end of the truck literally bunny hops going over a Walmart speed bump at 5 miles an hour. Is anyone else struggled with finding a happy medium between the 2nd and 3rd snap ring perch's? I've also noticed that the front driver side is now anywhere between a quarter and a half inch lower than the passenger side Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I would be pretty leery of putting on wheel spacers I had them on my Sierra for a while and it was impossible to get the wheels properly balanced and ended up taking them off Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk