corn18

Holy crap! That 6.0 will be a beast with that Magnuson. I think I would rather have an oil burner for that much money, but it would not be the same as your 6.0 with a Manguson. Let us know how you like it. I looked at the install .pdf and it looks fairly straight forward.

Excellent upgrade. How do you like the 6.0 + 14,00 lbs 5er combo? I have a 2500HD w/ 6.0 and I'm looking at 5ers in that range. Maybe a little lighter @ 12k lbs.

I cut up a cookie tin for shims. Not the most elegant solution but it worked.

What's interesting about your picture is that your shank seems to be angled up. Is there a lot of play in your shank when in the receiver? I had that problem on my 2008 Tundra. The whole WDH would tilt up because of the loose fit in the receiver. Then I had to add a lot of washers (head angle) to get the WDH set up properly. I added a thin shim to the shank to make it tighter in the receiver. Then I honked down so hard on the WD bars that I bent the receiver on the Tundra. Oops.

Your trailer is level: goodness. The WDH bars are level with the frame: goodness. But your WDH head looks level in the last pic and that might indicate you are not transferring much weight to the front of the truck and the trailer axles. I would tilt the WDH head down a bit more. Those WDH bars will start bowing more and you should get a more level truck. Although the CAT scales are the ultimate way to measure how well your WDH is setup, measurements work well, too. Get the front of your truck within 1/2" of its empty height with the WDH hooked up.

Too much squat. It looks like the WDH bars are parallel to the frame which is good. It's hard to tell but it looks like there is no downward head angle, which would indicate not enough weight is being distributed. Good news is this is an easy fix. Watch the video I linked on how to setup an Equal-i-zer, especially the part where it shows you how to tilt the head down more.

This is good advise. If setup properly, the Equal-i-zer will return the rear of the truck to within 1/2' of where it was before the trailer is hooked up. I have never met a truck and trailer that I couldn't get beck to level. Whether that is a good idea or not could be debated. Heck, if your frame is strong enough, you can crank that sucker down hard enough to remove the rear wheels: This is a good video on how to set it up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5TtNUxeFWc Also, if you could post a pic from the side with the truck and trailer hooked up with the Equal-i-zer and closer in of the hitch itself, we can tell a lot just from the pic.

I would give it a go. Real easy to do and undo, so if you don't like it, you can easily go back to stock.

Yes, I went from non power fold tow mirrors to power fold tow mirrors. No wiring changes required but I had to install a new mirror adjust switch that had the power fold button. That came with the mirror and took 2 minutes to install and used all the existing wiring. No power extend. If you are going from non-tow mirrors to any kind of tow mirrors (power fold or not), you need a wiring change. They include a kit to do that and a good video on how to install the wires. Luckily I didn't need to to do that, but it looked fairly easy, too.

That's just stupid and irresponsible.

I'm saying it was worse with 3/4" of height added to the front with the tension thingies.

That would be my expectation. Besides the power part, I have heard that lifting a truck affects handling and sway while towing.

Those mods don’t impact the numbers. You can’t raise your GVWR with mods and you don’t lower it either. now, would I tow at max weights with a lifted truck? Dunno. Would have to have some experience towing with a lifted truck to answer. I can tell you that towing at max weight in a 1/2 ton was fine for me, but I wasn’t lifted.

Step 1: Ignore any weight that is published in a brochure. They are all wrong. Step 2: Ignore the max tow rating and the GCWR. Your truck will max out on payload long before you hit the GCWR or tow limit. Step 3: Go out to your truck and open the driver's door. There are a couple of stickers on the B pillar. One of them says "The weight of all occupants and cargo should never exceed: XXXX". Tell us what that number is. This is your payload capacity and represents your payload as the truck rolled off the assembly line. Anything you have added (lift, bigger tires, people, tools, etc...) will reduce your payload capacity. Step 4. Remain calm and work from data. Let's start with that and go from there. Getting your truck weighed will get you bonus points. GVWR - truck weight = payload capacity. Tom

UPDATE: Decided to drop the front back down to stock. It was bone jarring at the higher tension setting on the torsion bars. Much better now. I can't imagine the death ride you would get if you cranked the torsion bars all the way up to get 2"+ of lift.