corn18

I got an intune i3 platinum and went with the stock 93 tune. It improved things but I still had to get a pedal box so I wasn't flooring it all the time to get moving. Then a nice fellow recommended I contact diablewtuning.com. I did. Since I had the i3 platinum, he could help me out. So I did a data log and sent that to him. He sent me back a custom tune. Holy crap! I had to pull the pedal box because I kept squealing the tires. This thing is now performing as I would have expected vs. being a giant, 2 ton pig. I'm only 90 miles into this diablew tune. Once I hit 150 miles, he wants me to do another data log during a WOT acceleration run. Then he tweaks it and sends it back. If it gets any better, I will be really happy. The reason I wanted a tune was for towing my 10,000 lbs fifth wheel. It's snowing here, so won't be able to pull it for a while. Unfortunately, he doesn't do custom tunes for other brand tuners. But if anyone is in the market for a great custom tune for their 6.0, I would highly recommend going the diablew route. Major improvement.

20,000 lbs of camping goodness.

Get a bigger truck. You are approaching DRW territory with that trailer. 2x a year or not, your truck is way overloaded with that trailer.

You're going to be overweight pulling a 14k 5er.

I'll snap some pics later today. My 2500HD 6.0 gas does fine with 11k. It likes to spend time at 4,000 rpm and gets about 7.2 mpg. The 6.0 is bullet proof so I think it will hold up fine. What truck do you have? My 2500 has 2,738 lbs payload and with the 5er hooked up and loaded for camping, I am at 9,500 lbs on the truck. 900 below RAWR so not too concerned. But a 14k 5er would overload my truck. I put in a Curt hide a ball gooseneck hitch. Fairly easy to install and works great. The B&W is a good option as well. I also run Firestone airbags with the remote. I run about 35 psi in them when towing. I also put drop shackles on my rear leafs to level the truck when not pulling. If I didn't have the drop shackles, the truck would squat to level with the 5er. So that's why I added airbags.

I do. On my 2500HD gasser regular bed. 11,000 lbs 5er. I have the coupler set up to move the trailer forward. This helps the ride a bit. I can still do 90 deg turns. Sure is nice to have a 35 lbs hitch I can hang on the wall when I don't need it.

According to Newmar's brochure from 2003 (https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/2003asttandasfwbrochure.pdfhttps://library.rvusa.com/brochure/2003asttandasfwbrochure.pdf? Dry weight: 10,187 Dry Pin Weight: 2,037 GVWR: 11,900 With your cargo capacity, this could work nicely depending on how much stuff you put in the truck. I'm planning on buying a 5er with about the same specs to pull with my 2015 2500 HD 6.0 4x4 65' bed. I have no experience with 5er hitches. It looks like from the pics in the brochure that the front of that trailer is not short bed friendly, so you may indeed need a slider. Does the Ram have a hitch in it? Maybe you could re-use that.

What is the year and exact model of the trailer? Also, what does the yellow sticker on the B pillar of your 2019 truck say is your cargo capacity?

Coolio! What size 5er are you looking at getting? BTW, the gooseneck install is fairly easy if you are looking to DIY.

I installed a Curt in my 2015 2500HD. Go with a B&W or Curt. Both are good. While you're under there, install air bags with a remote.

Holy crap! That 6.0 will be a beast with that Magnuson. I think I would rather have an oil burner for that much money, but it would not be the same as your 6.0 with a Manguson. Let us know how you like it. I looked at the install .pdf and it looks fairly straight forward.

Excellent upgrade. How do you like the 6.0 + 14,00 lbs 5er combo? I have a 2500HD w/ 6.0 and I'm looking at 5ers in that range. Maybe a little lighter @ 12k lbs.

I cut up a cookie tin for shims. Not the most elegant solution but it worked.

What's interesting about your picture is that your shank seems to be angled up. Is there a lot of play in your shank when in the receiver? I had that problem on my 2008 Tundra. The whole WDH would tilt up because of the loose fit in the receiver. Then I had to add a lot of washers (head angle) to get the WDH set up properly. I added a thin shim to the shank to make it tighter in the receiver. Then I honked down so hard on the WD bars that I bent the receiver on the Tundra. Oops.

Your trailer is level: goodness. The WDH bars are level with the frame: goodness. But your WDH head looks level in the last pic and that might indicate you are not transferring much weight to the front of the truck and the trailer axles. I would tilt the WDH head down a bit more. Those WDH bars will start bowing more and you should get a more level truck. Although the CAT scales are the ultimate way to measure how well your WDH is setup, measurements work well, too. Get the front of your truck within 1/2" of its empty height with the WDH hooked up.