I have a 2016 2500HD Silverado, crew cab, 4x4, LTZ. The rubber on both of my key fobs is toast, where is the best place to get replacements? I have seen some adds on the internet but most of the reviews say they are junk. Stealership wants like $300
I really do not care that the white unlock, lock and start buttons have worn off but the rubber on my key fobs is all sticky and gross.
Thanks for chiming in guys, I too thought it was the steering box but had not messed with it yet. I DID FINALLY FIND THE ISSUE AND GOT IT FIXED NO MORE KNOCK! Drum roll please, it was my telescoping steering. I chased after other option and never tried the easiest one. I released my telescoping steering and pushed and pulled the steering wheel in like ten times or so and then re-set it, NO MORE KNOCK! I think pulling and pushing the steering wheel in distributed some grease throughout that shaft and made the knocking stop or maybe it was even simpler than that and the locking lever on my telescoping steering was just not fully engaged.
I have a 2016 2500HD Silverado, 4x4, crew cab, LTZ gasser. I had a knock in my steering wheel and thought it was just the upper or intermediate shaft but have replaced both and knock is still there. At 67000 miles the dealership replace inner and outer tie rods both sides, both front hub assemblies and the pitman arm and I STILL HAVE A KNOCK IN MY STEERING WHEEL AT SPEEDS UNDER 45??? WTF could it be still? My truck has 80000 miles on it today.
Well mine is a 2016 2500HD with now 66,000 not only have I had to do brakes at all four corners but I had a knock in the steering wheel and the dealership just replaced upper and lower pittman arms, inner and outer tie rods, both front hubs, upper and intermediate steering shafts. This is crazy on a 3.5 year old truck that is highway driving. When I bought it new the dealership put a 2" leveling kit on and they are now saying that is possibly the culprit? Bullsh..! I had the torsion bars re-keyed I did not just crank the torsion bars. Plus no oversized tires or anything just a 2" level.
I have a 2016 gasser and live in Texas. I got 60K miles out of my brakes and had to have all rotors turned, new pads and hardware to fix the pulsating in my steering wheel. That is way to early on a 2500 to do anything to the brakes. Also the guy that did the bakes said they cannot be turned again and I will have to replace all four rotors next time.
I have two duramax's an 2002 and a 2012 that I got over 150,000 miles on before I had to change the pads.
Well my tailgate metal part are the passenger side is bent in the exact same place, bent out towards the rear of the truck. It looks just like the video you posted. So my theory, is it is not the plastic part but something is causing the tailgate mount to bend that is then causing is to break that $40 plastic piece. Not sure how to fix the metal as it is thick and in a weird spot to be able to get a hammer on it and pound it back straight.
I did Bosch ICON's on my 2016 LTZ and they are AWESOME! A little pricey but since you only have to replace them about every three years it is worth it to me.
I have a 2016 Silverado 2500HD LTZ 4x4. What is the deal with the center caps on the wheels are they designed to come off before you remove your lug nuts or do you just leave the caps on? I have searched everywhere for an answer to this with no luck
My 2014 spent weeks at the dealership over three different times and they could not ever figure it out. Every time I pulled out of the dealership parking lot my front end would pop, I was so annoyed and pissed about the entire situation. This was the first half ton I ever owned and I hated it!!! I finally got the front end fixed by buying a new 2016 2500HD, I will never try a half ton again/
I had the same issue on my 2014 with a RC 2.5" Leveling lift kit. Thought is was the ball joints but ended up being a bad bearing in the steering column. Dealership said this has been an issue in many trucks.