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catpartsman

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About catpartsman

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  1. I have the Diablo I3 with a custom tune by Lew. There is significantly more throttle response, firmer shifts and the best part is the V4 delete. I can change change the tire sizes when needed or return the truck to stock for dealer visits. It’s super simple and from what I researched, the best bang for the buck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I’d call the dealer with your vin and have them look it up and then give you the part number. Most dealer parts guys will give out the part numbers even if you don’t buy from there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. If I already have the HID kit from TRS, can I buy just the Hylux ballasts to replace my morimoto ballasts? I’ve have them kit installed for about a year and a half and have went through 3 ballasts so far and one bulb. Plus for the price of your kit, I can get a whole new kit for the price of the parts from TRS. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. As other has stated, Rexing is the way to go. I have one in my truck mounted on the windshield behind the review mirror. Hardly noticeable and works like a charm. I have it hardwired in and love it. Their customer support is good too. I have the V1 but would like to upgrade to the newer model with review connections at some point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Based on your part number filter it is an oiled one from what I can tell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Ok, so i tired searching for this but turned up no results. I’m sure I’m not searching right or something. Anyway, our 2017 Acadia has the lane departure warning system along with steering assist. We have the lane departure alert set to vibrate the seat. When traveling to Florida last week, I noticed the seat doesn’t vibrate when crossing the center or right line without using a blinker. Is this a common issue or am I missing something? My 2015 Sierra has this system and it works just fine. I’m just looking for input before I have to make an appointment to take it to the local stealership. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. You need to reprogram after every rotation. Go to amazon and buy a tpms programmer. It’s super easy to do. YouTube how to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I kept telling my dealer the same thing, there has to be something wrong. They always say they are within the normal operating temperature range according to GM. I haven’t gotten a second dealers opinion yet and that’s my fault. I always took my dealers word for it because they’ve been pretty good to me. However I recently had a buddy who about got SCREWED by this dealer, so I believe it’s time to start looking around for second opinions. Especially since I have the extended warranty out to 120,000 b-b. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Yes I do. I have checked and triple checked this setting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I don’t expect them to be cold at all but at least be cool to some degree. The cooled seats is something I could take or leave honestly. As for my heated seats, that’s a different story. When I remote start my truck when it’s cold out 20-30 degrees and it runs for 5-10 minutes before I get in, and after I hit the seat warmer button upon entry it still takes no less than 10-15 minutes before I start feeling any warmth. This is where my bitch comes into play than the cooled seats. My dealer has claimed they replaced the heating elements in both front seats but there is zero difference. My heated seats can be on ALL day and never get hot to where I need to turn them down. It’s like they are on the lowest setting all the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. They are “supposed” to do this but in my truck I can NEVER tell a difference. When I get in after warming up when it’s cold, the seats are cold. When getting in after it’s hot out, the seats are hot. After starting the truck with the key, everything warms up or cools off as it should. Dealer says there’s nothing wrong with my seats. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Subscribed. I’ve been looking at one of these for a while but since I’ve got the HID’s I don’t want to burn them out or have them flash at all. I also don’t want to install lights, run wires and drill holes for switches in the dash or console. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I’ve got OEM’s on my Sierra. Much better protection that the weathertech’s I originally installed. They are sleek, and do very well. Only downside is the drilling part. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. That’s what the shop told me. I’ve got about 45,000 miles on my current set up now with no issues. When I need new tires, I’m going to remove the lower spacer, put shocks at stock height and remove the rear blocks. Or at least that’s the plan. Going to go back to stock size and load range tires. Most of my driving is highway with little trailer use so I’m going back to get the most mpgs and out of the truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. That’s what the shop told me. I’ve got about 45,000 miles on my current set up now with no issues. When I need new tires, I’m going to remove the lower spacer, put shocks at stock height and remove the rear blocks. Or at least that’s the plan. Going to go back to stock size and load range tires. Most of my driving is highway with little trailer use so I’m going back to get the most mpgs and out of the truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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