catpartsman

So I ahve a 2015 GMC Sierra SLT that I did the carplay upgrade to. Everything was working just fine as it should until I upgraded phones. I went from an iPhone XR to a 13 and now the music skip/next track controls on the steering wheel don't work. I have checked all carplay settings and nothing seems changed or different. Does anyone know if the latest IOS update may have caused this or is it a hardware issue? The crazy thing is, when I disconnect carplay and just use Bluetooth, everything works fine, as it should. When I drive my wifes car, 2020 Explorer, all controls work properly when connected to carplay in it. Any help in figuring this issue out or if anyone has experienced this would be appreciated.

When you wash it, use your fingers to get any and all debris off the wheel well lip. This alone will do wonders for preventing rust in those areas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the lift was just installed on the front and it still sits that way, I’d be looking at the install. The 2” lift should have leveled it out perfect. Not to sound like a smart ass but are you sure the lift is installed? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Completely agree on the driving style. Considering my 34,000 miles were all freeway miles it was hard to believe they didn’t get any better mileage. The set I replaced them with, Toyo Open Country AT2 have over 81,000 miles on them with roughly 1/4-3/8” tread depth left. Should make it through the summer with them no problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No. Factory tires are NOT covered by the b-b warranty according to my dealer. I had 34,000 on my OE tires and they were shot, typical junk Goodyear’s. When I asked about warranty on them, my dealer said tires are not covered nor prorated with the b-b warranty. So I then tried claiming warranty with Goodyear since they claim they are a 60,000 mile tire. Goodyear told me the OE tires are not covered for their tire warranty because the tires weren’t purchased by me and came on the truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1.) What was your factory tire size? 275/55r20 is equivalent to a 32” tire. A 275/65r20 is equivalent to a 34” tall tire. I know at some point GM changed the factory tire size from a 275/55 to a 275/60 but not sure when. 2.) It probably only runs the sway bar at full lock and even then my guess is it’s minimal. 3.) The rear end always sits higher to account for the load added to the bed. Did you add any lift to the rear when you did the front? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve had mine plugged in for 6+ days without starting the truck and no issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It did for mine. My phone holder only drew 5 amps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep only I believe mine was a micro usb not a mini. I have since changed mounts though since I have added CarPlay to my truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I found my issue. It seems the flex joint on the exhaust pipe behind the third converter is rattling. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could try checking the grab handle if you have one. I know mine has been loose before and made a rattle sound under acceleration.

I’ve got a very similar issue but mine sounds like a rattle. I’ve had my truck back to the dealer numerous times for this and they say they’ve fixed it every time I go to pick it up and then on the way home the sound reappears. I think I’ve got mine narrowed down to the exhaust but unsure yet. Mine is at the same RPM range as well and will make the rattle when I first start the truck in the morning. When sitting in the cab, it sounds like it’s coming from behind the dash but that’s not the case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was told the same thing with my 15 Sierra. Dealer said it’s the injectors making the noise and nothing to worry about. Needless to say I’ve been keeping a close eye on things ever since. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not this guy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My boss has a 14 Silverado 5.3 with 240K on the clock. Only thing he’s done is a tranny and torque and oil changes. He drives 140 miles per day to and from work with all of it being interstate. His truck is bone stock and is planning to drive it until at least 350K or more he said. He’s averaging 21.5 too on MPG’s he said. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 15 Sierra is off by 1-2 MPG every time. I’ve got aftermarket wheels and larger tires along with Bilstein 5100’s all the way up in the front though. I’ve got the speedo recalibrated for the tire size and still off 1-2 maybe even 3 MPG at times compared to what the computer says. I consistently get 15.5-16 MPG when driving it around town and 17-19 when on long interstate runs when calculated out by hand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s not necessarily true. My boss has a 14 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 and he has over 300K on it with nothing more than brakes, tires and a tranny and torque replacement. He may be an exception to the norm but it’s not out of the question. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I read that as commercial vehicles. Most states have that law. For passenger vehicles such as cars, pickup trucks and SUV’s I’m betting that law doesn’t apply. Your fenders should be legal enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I want to know more of the legal reason you had to have mud flaps to drive it off the lot? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s good to know. I will have to watch this on my truck. Thanks for the heads up! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know it’s possible because most of not all police cruisers have this function. It’s like a button on the dash that activates it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What he said. [emoji1318][emoji1318] I wouldn’t waste your money. I upgraded my system two years after I bought my 15 and absolutely nothing changed that I could tell. You’re much better off with android auto or car play. I won’t ever buy another vehicle with factory nav if so can help it. It’s a total waste of money. Plus it doesn’t always route you the fastest way from what I’ve found. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d keep the factory projectors and just add the HID kit. Works just fine with no issues at all. You will be amazed at the difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The one I originally purchased failed with in a few months. The Opt7 one has been going strong for almost two years now with no issues what so ever. The added light when reversing is nice plus the added brake and turn lights make it worth it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is what I used and have had ZERO issues with it. It’s rigid and bright. OPT7 60" Redline LED Tailgate Light Bar - TriCore LED - Weatherproof Rigid Aluminum No-Drill Install - Full Featured Reverse Running Brake Turn Signal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z8TGR4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tw.NFb8HD0Q1V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I also hard wired mine right into the tail, reverse and brake lights. (I didn’t know about the putco option at the time or else that’s the way I would have went. ) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk