Chris Stierman

I have the work truck trim with basic b&w info screen and it only has 1 screen for MPG.

Could be. I remote start for 5 minutes every morning. Don't like sitting in a cold truck. If it isn't counting that gas burned that would definitely make up for a few MPGs, my old Dodge did count that though as it was spot on every time.

Is it pretty normal for the info screen that tells you your average gas mileage to be off? I reset it every time I get gas and I also do the manual calculation on miles driven divided by gallons put in. I'm getting 15.1-15.3 MPG consistently when I do the calculation. The computer is telling me I am getting 17.8 to 18.5 mpg. Stock everything, same size tires. My last car was spot on every time. Is it normal that the Silverado's are over estimating?

Thanks! That is what I was afraid of. I think I am going to forgo all the front connections. I wonder if I can fill in and wrap that front panel or 3D print a replacement panel that is just flat.

Working on my 2016 WT center console install. It has the IO3, I think I read somewhere that it doesn't have the HMI Module at all, is that true? I already pulled the harness out of my jump seat and swapped out the USB module inside the center console with the one from the jump seat. So right now I have both the cig lighter and USB/3.5mm working under the lid as well as one of the cig lighters in the front. Is there a place to plug in another USB on the IO3? I'm also wondering if the power connector is neccessary? Shouldn't the USB just work off bus power?

Did you just splice off the reverse lights to power the lights or just to trigger a relay?

How about free? Just pick up a few of the free blue harbor freight magnetic lights and stick them in the front of the bed. They light up most of it with just one on each side pointing towards the front fo the truck.

I just picked up a 2016 Silverado WT from PA. I'm in WI, the entire frame was devoid of all the factory wax. Nothing left. I went with the Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Took a wire wheel cone and some wire brushes and got all the loose stuff off and then hit it with the Rust Reformer. It dried to a nice flat black that was very similar to what the factory coat looked like new. Definitely need 2 or 3 coats in some spots, it soaks into the rust in heavy areas. My guess is that I will have to recoat every year, but it appears breathable and it does not have any rubber which should make for an ideal coating. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/rust-reformer

That might work. I kind of like the idea of doing white since it is a white truck and $149 is a good price.

I already installed a Tonneau cover but whoever had the truck before me scratched the crap out of the bed. I'm not going to do a $500+ spray in liner on something I never see. I'm seeing two options. Either sand and paint the scratches with a generic white paint and throw in a plastic bed liner OR sand the whole thing and put in a cheap roll in or spray in bed liner. Either will work for what I need, I don't use the bed much, and when I do it is stuff in boxes or totes so I don't need the bed protection. I just don't want it to get scratched and rust with light usage. I'd rather have a harder gritty bedliner, think paint with sand mixed in, than a rubbery soft one. Anything fit the bill?

That looks slick... I wonder if the floor mats are covering holes. The floor shift plastic goes down a lot further to the floor than the center console.

The jump seat is a HUGE waste of space and has very limited storage. Mine doesn't have the underseat storage either. I just want more space to store stuff and have that storage be further forward. I'm a big guy and have long arms and the cupholders are too far back. I'd like them much closer to the radio.

Has anyone done a center console swap in a work truck that has the floor shift for the 4x4? I'm looking at pictures and wondering if I am SOL. I'm not sure there is room on the floor for the console and the shifter.

Anyone done the swap on a work truck and tried getting the steering wheel controls to work with an aftermarket radio? I know you need a cluster and a different radio/flash to make it work on a stock, but I'm wondering if enough wiring is there to make it work with the aftermarket adapter.

I believe it, I just didn't like the premium price. Drove both, the Sierra is definitely the better truck. I ended up with a Silverado WT and I'm just adding the parts that I care about or want aftermarket. Going to end up being WAY cheaper and give me something to do. I think it was around $6-8k more for a Sierra in the same year with the same miles as my WT. Obviously there are many things that are better in the Sierra, but for me I only wanted a few of them. I'm one of those people that is perfectly happy with a rubber floor instead of carpet and Weathertech mats. Also perfectly happy to install a remote start/keyless and radio aftermarket instead of the factory units.