Chris Stierman

I just did the same on my truck and went with one down from the top as well. Didn't quite level the truck out, but I tow a travel trailer so I'm fine with it being raised a little in the rear. Ride improved a TON. Super happy, did the 5100s front and rear.

Yea, it is difficult to get stuff out of the back of the bed now. Originally I had the rack farther forward and you could lift a section of the TriFold up and each everything, but with the middle bike reversed the back tire was hitting the window and I had to slide the rack closer to the back of the truck. I'm looking to see about a rolling or retracting cover, but cheap is the name of the game for me!

Back.

All done and on the truck. With reversing 2 of the bikes I can definitely fit 5 bikes total on the rack.

I got my rears from Amazon. Still trying to find a set of fronts somewhere. I have a set ordered, but they are 2-6 weeks out. Did the rears a few days ago. My truck has 90K on it, has never towed before ever. The factory shocks were completely shot. Everyone should be changing these at 75K or earlier.

I can't find the 5100 fronts in stock ANYWHERE. I also can't figure out where people are finding these for $350- for the set of 4. Best price I can find that is out of stock is $94 each for the rears and $132 each for the fronts.

Hopefully finishing this up tonight with the clamps and then painting, but here is a sneak peak off the truck on all the parts I fabbed up. This will allow me to keep the tonneau cover over the bed rails and still have a bike rack in the back. Total materials cost was under $50 with all the nuts and bolts, metal, bars, brackets, etc.

Where are you located? That is going to make a big difference.

Gave up on trying to get the USB ports to work in the center console. I filled the holes with a piece of ABS plastic cut to fit and then used JBWeld Plastic adhesive to glue it in and fill the gaps to make it smooth. Finished up by wrapping it with the same vinyl I used on the side trim of the center console.

These were pulled when the truck was new and replaced with Chrome. Factory paint and original GM handles. $225 shipped.

When I purchased my truck used I went over it with a fine tooth comb washing, waxing, removing dirt, etc. I went over every square inch of the truck, even pulled the seats and cleaned. When I was washing the rocker panels I noticed a 4" section that seemed soft on the passenger side. It had some deflection when you pushed on it hard, more than the same spot on the other side. I took it in a week after I bought it to have my list of things I found wrong fixed(alignment, rough idle, that spot). They said that there was no issue with the rocker and that it was normal. Same thing with the rough idle, no codes found so it is normal. They did do an alignment and that took care of the pulling to the left. Fast forward now that winter is over, there is now cracks in the paint and visible rust on that exact spot on the rocker panel. Pushing on it and it gives completely. I think the paint is the only thing holding it together and it obviously rusted out from the inside. I installed aftermarket steps after they finished their work and said there was no issue. They bolt into pre existing holes in the rocker, no new holes were drilled and they use the factory mounting points. Before I take it in to get them to fix the rust, do I need to take the steps off? I don't want them to blame the steps for this issue or charge me for taking them off, which they will have to do to repair the rocker. Anyone had rocker rust warranty done and had steps?

If you want new you can order from GM. Otherwise @pgamboa sells them along with a harness to hook it up as well. Mine was used and I picked it up from Craigslist from a guy parting out a wrecked truck. I actually bought two, the first one I found was Brown/Cocoa and I used that until I found a grey/black one. I'm selling the brown one on Facebook Marketplace.

I just finished replacing the jump seat with a center console in my 2016 WT with floor shift 4wd. I also installed a leather wrapped steering wheel to replace the factory WT wheel. I reused the WT trim on the steering wheel to keep the factory WT look. I also wrapped the wood trim on the center console with matte black vinyl so that it matched as well. Both the wheel and the center console lid are grey/white stitching with black leather. I think it all blends in really well. I decided to trim the stock 4x4 cover because I didn't like the holes in the flooring and wanted them covered up. If i ever replace the floor I will take that trim piece out as well. I used an oscillating multi tool to cut the spot for the floor shift to come through. The stock shift knob is way to big to fit, grabbed a thin one off Amazon and drilled the opening to fit the shaft size. The only thing I have to finish is getting the front USB ports to work, or I'm going to fill the holes in the front panel with epoxy and vinyl wrap it. Ignore the mess, it is a work truck and it is the middle of winter in WI. Too cold to clean it out.

I spent a few hours troubleshooting today. I still cannot get the front hub to work. Either my hub is bad, or the IO3 doesn't support using the hub. The front hub doesn't work by itself but if I swap it out for the USB/3.5mm module it works with the same data and power coming in. I did try both the passenger and driver USB ports on the hub just in case I was doing it backwards. I verified I have 12V power and a good ground, which I knew since the other module works in its place. Not sure if I should bite the bullet and order another front USB hub and try again. I'd really like to know for certain that there is someone who has them both working with an IO3.

Interesting. I thought the GM cables were just normal USB cables with a special connector end on them. What makes them not work?