Jglew82

The 6lug gm wheels are the same patterns throughout the years. You'll have to verify exact fitment for yourself. There are tons of pics of gmt400's with 800, 900, k2 wheels on them, just do a quick google search.

Indeed. I also have a '17 with an L83/6l80 and it rocks!

No problem, This may go against the grain if you are dead set on that 6.0 (and I can't fault you, they are awesome) if you did these same mods to your 4.8, especially cam and 243's (or the 799's which are mostly identical), that little bastard may surprise you... plus it'll save you tons of money and be easier to tune.

If it's bent, then the crank is bent. Not the end of the world, but the engine will need to come out. I'm still trying to wrap my head around how all this is related to your driveway.. Do you think you could have smacked the pulley on your driveway/curb/a big ass rock somehow? Not likely, but maybe if you are able to post some pictures or a video of what's going on, that might help.

I don't yet; I'm still working out some kinks on this one as it is a swap into a 90 C1500 (quite an upgrade to the wheezy old tbi I pulled!) I can tell you that it has some serious down-low grunt, even with the stock 3.08 rear. Tons of top end. The cam kit I bought from TSP came with the LS6 blue style valve springs, but I did order a new set of GM LS7 style lifters, rocker trunnion upgrade, and a set of hardened pushrods from Brian Tooley. My heads were surfaced in addition to the cam and lifter swap, so I had to put some shorter pushrods in. Pushrod length checker is a must!

Crane and Summit make good truck cams with mild duration and lift to keep the torque down low, which is what you want for towing and doing truck things. My 6.0 has the Texas Speed 216/220 112 .550/.550 cam. Idle is good, power is decent, stock converter 60e. That said, take care of that 60e... it's gonna freak out with a 6.0 in front of it coming off a 4.8 that has towed on occasion. You might need to swap to an 80e at some point, but I won't go down the 80e/60e rabbit hole, that's pretty well documented. Basic things like mild cam, headers, and intake (let her breathe) and a good tune will really wake up a 6.0. For a tune, your best bet is to find a reputable tuner to dial it in on a dyno using open source software such as HPTuners, EFI Live, etc.

Remove everything in front of the cover to where JUST the crankshaft snout is exposed. Check runout with a dial indicator. This will tell you if your crank is bent. You need to do this to find the issue. Here's a visual reference for what you need to look at (ignore the specific crank, this is just an example) install the indicator to the snout, zero it out, rotate the crank BY HAND and watch the gauge, if the needle jumps around as it spins, it's bent.

With no refrigerant in the system, that means there is a leak. You must find the leak and repair this first, or else you are just wasting money and releasing refrigerant into the air. The reason you aren't getting cool air is because due to the leak, you now have moisture in the system, so likely the desiccant in the drier is fully saturated. Step one is to get either a leak sniffer or dye and find where the leak is. Once you identify and repair the leak, replace the orifice tube and drier, vacuum the system for 30-45 minutes at minimum, verify no leaks again with pressure readings, then you can recharge the system.

Do you have a dial indicator? If not, borrow or buy one. Take off the balancer and pulley and check if the crank snout is bent.

Passive income comes as a result of a "hands-off" approach, so market gains, and renting out real estate (as long as it's truly hands off, i.e. using a management company) are 2 big ones. Now, there are easy side jobs like online surveys, consultation, etc but those are trading time for money, so it's still considered active income.

I wonder if the piston in the master cylinder is hanging up on some casting flash or something. Perhaps they installed the wrong part? If all 4 are indeed dragging, that's where I'd start looking.

Okay, cool. Have you checked if the compressor clutch is engaged in this mode? If not, it's possible your controller could be faulty and only engaging the compressor in recirc mode. Keep in mind I'm just spit-balling ideas at this point and suggesting things to check off the list

Wow... even the doors are off. Hopefully someone worth their salt is punching this ticket and you get it back correctly!

This maybe a dumb question, but I have to ask. Is your A/C button on when the fresh air mode is selected? When you select recirc, it automatically engages your compressor regardless, so that's why I ask. Also, it switching to fresh air whenever you turn off the truck is a default function. They all do this.

Very nice. I like the fact that this switch has an NC terminal to route the existing circuit through so it still functions with the cargo switch and lamp circuit, much like a 5 pin relay.