outrag1

Great job Leevon. This is why these forums are so great!

Agree with this. I've been asking my wife for at least a week, why don't they show more details on those that recovered? What was the duration, how severe or mild were the cases, can we create a herd immunity, etc...There would be less fear and panic if people had this information as well.

I feel for all of you dealing with this unacceptable treatment over a "new year" poor design issue that continues into subsequent years. Are you disclosing the window leak issue to the other manufacturer during the trade? If not, are they not curious as to why you are trading a virtually new truck for another brand?

I posted a couple times early on and feel so bad for all of you who are dealing with this. I was planning on a leftover 21 (as I got a leftover 18 last year) in 18 months or so, but I sure as shit will not be doing that if the window issue is not resolved.

I've had good luck with the X4 (same one used on two trucks). I got a good deal around $700 via the Internet a couple years back. I would personally not be interested in the hard fold a cover. I will say on the roll up I agree it's not perfectly water tight and the rubber seals need some playing with to get it right. This was fine with me as I didn't expect it to be water tight.

BakFlip Revolver...same unit I've used on my 16 and then transferred to my 18. Have had good luck with it.

Just for reference, my 2018 (K2 build of 11/18) has the VITRO stamp. Maybe the switch over to FUYAO for the new T1's is part of the issue along with body flexing as has been mentioned.

Changed oil myself at 3000 miles on my 2018. I got my supplies of 8qts full syn 0/20 (I forget the brand but it was Penz or Valvoline or something decent) and PF63 AC Delco filter at Walmart on special for around $44 for everything. I did not reset the oil change clock because I wanted it to be invisible to the dealer. Yesterday I got my first of two free maintenance services at the dealer at 7000 miles, which includes oil change, tire rotation, checklist of things. I'll do the second free maintenance at the dealer next spring and probably keep to what GM recommends after that to minimize any warranty issues. If the truck was out of warranty, I would do whatever I wanted, but until then I'll go by what GM and the dealer says. As far as the dealer cost for the maintenance service if I had exhausted my freebies, I believe it's around $60. They are always sending coupons, etc. with that price.

Looks Good!

The ride is good (P rated, yet HD at 50psi max) and the appearance and functionality is enhanced over the GY Eagle LS2's that came with the truck. I've had much worse road noise with an E rated tire. I did get them at a place that does road force balancing (which the dealerships have) so that may have helped on a 20 inch rim. Not sure on the other sizes fitting a stock application. There are a lot of threads on here talking about lifts, levels, tire size, etc. and what may fit a stock application.

These are the only profile shots I have at the moment...

Reminds me of the two tone paint job that was so popular in the 80's. I was never a fan.

Factory 20" wheels with stock size aftermarket Cooper AT3 4s ....No lift or level. It's a P rated tire, which rides well, but rated as a heavy duty with a max 50psi rating.

Amazing outcome. I guess that is a good dealer. Show some pictures of the new one when you get a chance. Congrats!

I doubt they will furnish a new truck for a couple paint defects. I feel your pain though because if they have to "paint" they will need to spray base on repair and then blend clear on the whole panel. Depending on where the marks are, they may have to blend into adjacent panels to get it to look right. Then you have the issue of factory texture (orange peel) matching repair texture so it doesn't stand out. The body shop is really key. As mentioned earlier, I would probably get a 2nd private opinion from an elite body shop in your area. You may even get GM to allow you to go to your shop of choice with them funding the project. Years ago I bought a new Chevy pickup and didn't realize the bed rail had been re-sprayed (somewhere between the factory and the dealer) because it was raining when my order came in and I took delivery. The following weekend, I noticed a hard (obvious to the touch) paint line where the bed rail meets the rest of the quarter panel. I was not happy, but all they would do is look to improve the repair. They did allow me to go to a body shop of my choice however. In the end, I didn't need repaint, only wet sanding and buffing to improve and blend the area. It became something only I was aware of but I had a bad taste for a while.