Ride is great. I'm at the top groove, yes right at about 2.5". I drove it with the BFG's before and after the struts and it rides better after. The load range E tires are a little stiffer than the factory tires, that's about all I can detect. Actual dips, bumps, etc are smoother.
Honestly they're gonna do what they want and probably be hard-headed if you dictate the process...probably call a couple and get a quote if you don't know any service advisors.
Thank you! I plan to swap out my stamped uppers...have personally seen them fail on 2.5" level kits. The alignment is spot on for now though. 275/70/18 BFG's no rubbing whatsoever even at stock height. I did order some 1.75" spacer/adapters for looks, should be in this week I will get some real pics then.
Yes, but you can't buy it all separately...the kit comes with latch, fobs and programming code. You're buying the code, no way around that not for a dealer or anyone.
Leevon replied to UrbanRage's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsThe ride is nice isn't it!? I just installed mine last weekend, highest settting plus 1/2" top strut spacers. In the rear I installed blocks that were about 5/8" taller than stock (advertised as 1" lift blocks). I'm on factory 18's with 275/70/18 which are fairly tall, about 33.5". My front fenders are 39.5" and rears are about 40.5", so the rake is maintained. Very glad I went with Bilsteins also.
1.5 Hours is very fair, especially if they had to install the latch. Setting, up logging in, etc and the BCM update takes an hour alone, maybe a little less even for somebody proficient. I wouldn't charge less than 2 if I did it again.
I paid $800 for the same set, under 3k miles, dealer take-offs, second hand through a tire shop. I would have paid $1000, probably not much more but $1200 isn't out of the question...
Are you stuck on the double cab? I paid close to that for my '18 crew cab Z71. Might open up your options a bit to consider the crew cab. Way better re-sale too. As far as break-in, don't worry about it. The same guideline has existed since non-pressurized oiling and solid lifters. Just drive it, you won't hurt anything.
Checking yourself is the only way if you're worried about it. Otherwise, keep riding...tire wear will tell the story. When they get bad enough you'll hear a knock when backing out. It's not unusual for them to start having play around 70k miles. By 100-120k most of the GM SUV's and trucks we see are apparent. My last set was the wife's 2009 Suburban, had very slight play but I could NOT get the tires to stop feathering. 95% of people wouldn't replace them on the small amount of play they had but I did, and the tires stopped edge wear. If you think a shop is gigging you, just ask them to demonstrate, it's easy to see them moving. It's not unethical to see an issue and inform a customer of the condition of their vehicle. I would argue the opposite, when your car goes in for service and you don't get any information, you're not getting service. Honestly they're not bad to do, especially considering the cost. Get a nice ball joint press and a couple of MOOG ball joints and you'll still save $500 or more.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 111 Members, 2 Anonymous, 519 Guests (See full list)
- L86 All Terrain
- SILVER SLED
- Dock Rocker
- f8l vnm
- scale obsession
- RAYS B4U
- Sean Hartley
- Matthew Ross