Leevon

I think they were $450 ish each.

I have a set sitting here waiting for install, got them in April off Ebay.

I have a set, they're sitting in my office waiting for install. They look like decent quality. They use Eibach springs.

RadoPhan, The solid window is just plain glass squished onto the body with a thick bead of urethane, like a windshield. The slider has a thin plastic frame permanently adhered to the glass (see photos).

Trail Boss 5.3. 23,000 miles 14.7 mpg average. The average over time is the only thing that matters if you're comparing. It doesn't matter if someone says they got 24mpg on a trip to grandma's last week!

No sir, it has a plastic frame that is bonded to the glass, it's very thin and cracked in two places (that's the root of the problem). It's garbage or I would have fixed and re-used.

I had about 4 hours total into it. Removing the seat back is a little tricky, the headliner is a little tricky and cutting the window out is a pure pain because the slider track limits access to the bottom seal.

Today I finished up my slider to solid window conversion. Would I do it again? Yes. But cutting the urethane seal to remove the glass is a pain and I'd leave that step to a pro next time to save the aggravation. I can say confidently that these leaks COULD be fixed by removing the spoiler and sealing the top of the sliding window IF performed with the right products and extra cleaning and care. Replacing the glass is overkill. But with a slider you'll always have a cracked window frame, unless the design is eventually fixed and the glass is replaced. The TSB is incomplete in my opinion, the products recommended are inadequate and the likelihood that it will be done properly at the dealership is a huge gamble obviously. If you want to seal the window frame then use a self-leveling urethane or seam sealer type product. Sealing the spoiler bolt holes is also critical, although I'd argue the majority of leaks are probably the frames not the holes. No matter who does the work, your headliner will have be molested, paint may be scratched removing the glass and something will probably break (a trim clip etc). The solid glass cost me $257 and took a week to get through my dealer parts account. I spent about $120 on 3M products and specialty tools. I used 3M urethane primer, 3M window weld and 3M strip caulk. One tube of window weld (sealer) did the job. I rolled the strip caulk like play-dough and put it around all of the bolts. Once tightened, it squeezed through all holes and made a nice permanent seal. After the glass had been in for a couple of hours and the spoiler was replaced and everything buttoned up I put the truck outside just in time for a huge rain storm and it passed the test.

FYI depending on how the lifters fail, IF there is any metal in the oiling system, your cam and main bearing life is basically doomed. Lifter repair is a band aid. Sucks man sorry!

DIY Spoiler removal / access to the top of the window with some more detail than found in the TSB: 1. Remove B-pillar seat belt bezel 2. Remove upper rear corner of the door seal from the pinch weld to get access to first the B-pillar trim clips 3. Release the B-pillar trim clip closest to the door with a screwdriver to get them started or just pull the whole thing if you're brave (there are 3 metal trim clips on the bottom and 1 at the top) 4. Remove the small bolt/retainer holding wiring from the back of the B-pillar trim 5. Remove both rear coat hooks (un-clip the face from the inner most side with a small tool) and remove bolt 6. Pull the headliner down (you WILL have to molest it some to get it down past the window track) then reach toward the rear middle and give it some separation, there are two retainers in the back, now you have the rear mostly down. Yes it will crease a little, it's not permanent if you're careful. 7. Using a long screwdriver and/or pry or trim tool with a light reach into the back of the dome light and separate the two metal trim clips. Now you have adequate access to the headliner. 8. There are 4 10mm bolts, 8 10mm nuts and 2 retainers. The nuts and bolts are easy. Long curved needle nose will do the trick on the retainers. From there you can see just how piss poor the design of this spoiler and window is. All of the water on top of and around the spoiler channels to the top of the window where there is a deep "gutter". There is a lightweight foam sealer at the top of the spoiler doing little to nothing to route water around the dozen holes. You will also notice that there is little to no sealing on the many holes for fasteners and retainers in the roof. I found 1, yes ONE! seal on the bolts. The flange of the nuts in the spoiler have small o-rings on them. This is all mind-boggling really. Both side of my window frame are cracked about 6" from the edge, as most others have found. The urethane window seal to the body is fine. If you want to seal the frame yourself, you should clean out the giant "gutter" on top of the window with soapy water and a brush and forget about using crap silicone. Get some self-leveling urethane or better yet body seam sealer that will adhere and remain elastic. There is no way that Kent silicone will do any good long term. If you're like me and you want to get rid of this crap slider, stay tuned I will post that DIY after the new GM solid window arrives.

Stay tuned ya'll...I just ordered a solid rear glass to convert my slider. This might seem crazy to some but my options are 1) let the dealer "fix" the leak and we all know how that is turning out or 2) trade the truck or 3) fix it myself permanently. I like the truck, don't want to trade it and I never wanted the slider anyway and I definitely don't want silicone goobered all over a $55k truck so solid window it is. The GM glass is coming out of Canada apparently there isn't much inventory. I am going to do some dis-assembly and prep this weekend I'll let ya'll know how it goes!

Another one down. 23K miles and I thought maybe I dodged the bullet until now, sigh. August 2018 build date.

Oh wow sorry you're dealing with this. What a crappy dealership, which one is it?

Today? Drove it like I stole it because gas is like $1. Hammer down!

Kevin, same truck same level kit here. I finally decided on the Rough Country forged aluminum arms (of course apples and oranges compared with the big boy stuff) but for a stock replacement with improved angle they are much higher quality than I expected and will be direct fit. The bushings are same as factory arms, the ball joint seems decent. I don't have any reason to go all out and I tend to not keep trucks very long so I don't want to give away big $ mods. These fit my needs for $399. https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-forged-aluminum-upper-control-arms-29501.html