Leevon

It's self-leveling which means it does have some flowability. I think you might have success but it'd be a gamble...would be curious to see it tried.

A couple of points from a shop owner: Fluid exchange is the correct procedure, and since it was a warranty job that's what GM is paying for, no more. Assuming the dealer used a modern exchange machine it is better than dropping the pan. You simply connect inline to the trans cooler and do a 1:1 exchange of fluid, using the transmission to pump the fluid through all gears. It gets ALL of the old fluid out of the unit. Whereas dropping the pan and replacing a filter only replaces what is in the pan or about 40%-50% new fluid. "Flushes" are a thing of the past. The "flush" terminology earned a bad rap because the older "hot flush" equipment used machine pressure to blast fluid (and sometimes solvent cleaners) back through the trans, which could cause issues. Another benefit of the exchange is time. It books about 1.0 hours, where a pan drop can book for about 2.0 hours or more. On a pan drop getting the fluid level perfect is a bit of a process (warm-up time, computer temp verfiy, racking a second time for level check etc). It can be an real PITA on other makes with insane procedures. With the exchange machine it's 1:1 in and out, none of that is required. Since labor time equals cost the price to you is much cheaper for the exchange. If you request a pan drop/filter you're going to be paying $labor x 2.0hrs+ and fluid and filter vs $labor x 1.0 plus fluid only (or a fixed menu price in many cases). Also modern transmission filters are more of a screen and while they can benefit from service at higher mileage they are not the same as paper element filters we grew up servicing in TH350's etc.

Glad you got to put hands on it! I think they're entirely 100% fixable and it's frustrating that the bulletins, and dealer practices don't line up.

Also, here is what you're trying to fix, small cracks in the plastic slider frame that allow water to pass through:

Since this is now a sticky, I hope the mods don't mind me posting the video you can use to get comfortable dropping the headliner. It's from a vendor that sells the camera mirror upgrade as a kit, I have no affiliation with them but I think the video is a great help.

NO, unnecessary. The bulletin is BS. The reason why they want that is because the updated nuts come with a "teflon-ish" type thin seal (see the white stuff in my photo). The seal is completely ineffective. First off it's on the inside of the cab and second they don't make an adequate seal. Third they're $37 for new nuts lol. If the engineers had their heads screwed on they would be recommending something like what I did. I wrapped each spoiler bolt (8) in 3m strip caulk at the base and each of the spoiler nuts (4) on their flange. When the spoiler is installed this sandwiches the strip caulk through the holes, creating a permanent seal 100x better than the factory. Another fault with the design is that there are supposed to be thin seals on the spoiler side of the holes on the posts. I found (1) total on my first truck and (2) on the second. There should be 8, they simply don't get installed at the factory. I take them off before installing the strip caulk.

You know what it's not too bad, I probably had it dropped in about 30 minutes. It re-installs in 10 minutes. It is the second time I have done it so that was a huge help. And there is a video from infotainment.com that is outstanding I used as a refresher. I promise something WILL break though, you just have to accept that, there are too many plastic pieces being touched. I'd rather be the one doing the breaking though. The "A" clips that hold plastic trim on are always terrible. For me this time it was one of the clips that secure the headliner around sunroof. No biggie.

I finished the install today, did it at the same time I sealed the slider from leaking. Also installed a lead for my radar detector. I like the camera mirror!

This is my 2nd Trail Boss with a leaking slider, both of them I bought new. The first one I fixed myself by replacing the slider with a solid window (details are somewhere in the massive leak thread). The second one I wanted to keep the slider and permanently seal before it ever leaked. I've had the truck over a year and finally got around to it. Since I was dropping the headliner I also added the camera rearview mirror and hard-wired my radar detector. I dropped the headliner and removed the spoiler. I cleaned the top of the window channel with all purpose cleaner and a detail brush and dried it. I taped the top of the glass and back of the cab with some little tape ball dams at the ends. I warmed the area up with a heat gun so it would flow then I applied self-leveling sealer SEM 39387 then I hit it with the gun a little more to draw out air bubbles. After that cured, I put 3m strip caulk on all of the spoiler bolts and nuts and re-installed the spoiler. The self-leveling sealer had the exact effect I wanted, it bridged from the glass to the body and covered up the plastic slider frame that cracks and leaks. There were no cracks in the frame this time. I also noticed they are putting a little sealer on the nuts that hold the spoiler on, but it's not adequate. The way I did this it should never leak from the glass or the spoiler holes. The mirror upgrade was easy, swap the brake light, add the cable and swap the mirror. Plug-and-play.

I did a muffler delete on my 6.2 Trail Boss, asked him to leave one flapper but he took both. It was too loud. Put one flapper back and now it's perfect. Buddy did muffler delete on his 6.2 AT4 and left both flappers, it's close to what a GMPP cat-back sounds like.

Just ordered parts for this. I lucked out and found a take-off light assembly on Ebay with harness for $144. So that left the coax cable for $32 and mirror for $644 (on my dealer account). I was planning to drop the headliner and seal my slider anyways, so this is the perfect excuse to upgrade the mirro. I am glad I ran across this thread!

Got my fender extensions painted...much better!

I did it myself, so the cost was the window and materials, if I recall less than $300. If you're not experienced with this kind of DIY I would find a glass company. There are some specialty tools. I sold the truck, but I am 100% sure it was a permanent fix. No mods, the window regulator / cable assembly got thrown in the trash so no need to pull a fuse. Hope that helps. This is nuclear option though, if you're willing to go that route, just seal it up correctly first. IT CAN BE DONE. The dealers are just doing a piss poor job.

Thank you. About 10k miles, yes they're replaceable.

They're nice, it's Fox's shocks and Eibach springs. Gave me 1" over stock out of the box and stock like ride. I bought them from a no-name vendor on Ebay.