Jump to content

Leevon

Member
  • Content Count

    153
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Leevon last won the day on January 12 2018

Leevon had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

101 Excellent

About Leevon

  • Rank
    Leevon
  • Birthday 01/25/1980

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Interests
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

2,447 profile views
  1. I had about 4 hours total into it. Removing the seat back is a little tricky, the headliner is a little tricky and cutting the window out is a pure pain because the slider track limits access to the bottom seal.
  2. Today I finished up my slider to solid window conversion. Would I do it again? Yes. But cutting the urethane seal to remove the glass is a pain and I'd leave that step to a pro next time to save the aggravation. I can say confidently that these leaks COULD be fixed by removing the spoiler and sealing the top of the sliding window IF performed with the right products and extra cleaning and care. Replacing the glass is overkill. But with a slider you'll always have a cracked window frame, unless the design is eventually fixed and the glass is replaced. The TSB is incomplete in my opinion, the products recommended are inadequate and the likelihood that it will be done properly at the dealership is a huge gamble obviously. If you want to seal the window frame then use a self-leveling urethane or seam sealer type product. Sealing the spoiler bolt holes is also critical, although I'd argue the majority of leaks are probably the frames not the holes. No matter who does the work, your headliner will have be molested, paint may be scratched removing the glass and something will probably break (a trim clip etc). The solid glass cost me $257 and took a week to get through my dealer parts account. I spent about $120 on 3M products and specialty tools. I used 3M urethane primer, 3M window weld and 3M strip caulk. One tube of window weld (sealer) did the job. I rolled the strip caulk like play-dough and put it around all of the bolts. Once tightened, it squeezed through all holes and made a nice permanent seal. After the glass had been in for a couple of hours and the spoiler was replaced and everything buttoned up I put the truck outside just in time for a huge rain storm and it passed the test.
  3. FYI depending on how the lifters fail, IF there is any metal in the oiling system, your cam and main bearing life is basically doomed. Lifter repair is a band aid. Sucks man sorry!
  4. DIY Spoiler removal / access to the top of the window with some more detail than found in the TSB: 1. Remove B-pillar seat belt bezel 2. Remove upper rear corner of the door seal from the pinch weld to get access to first the B-pillar trim clips 3. Release the B-pillar trim clip closest to the door with a screwdriver to get them started or just pull the whole thing if you're brave (there are 3 metal trim clips on the bottom and 1 at the top) 4. Remove the small bolt/retainer holding wiring from the back of the B-pillar trim 5. Remove both rear coat hooks (un-clip the face from the inner most side with a small tool) and remove bolt 6. Pull the headliner down (you WILL have to molest it some to get it down past the window track) then reach toward the rear middle and give it some separation, there are two retainers in the back, now you have the rear mostly down. Yes it will crease a little, it's not permanent if you're careful. 7. Using a long screwdriver and/or pry or trim tool with a light reach into the back of the dome light and separate the two metal trim clips. Now you have adequate access to the headliner. 8. There are 4 10mm bolts, 8 10mm nuts and 2 retainers. The nuts and bolts are easy. Long curved needle nose will do the trick on the retainers. From there you can see just how piss poor the design of this spoiler and window is. All of the water on top of and around the spoiler channels to the top of the window where there is a deep "gutter". There is a lightweight foam sealer at the top of the spoiler doing little to nothing to route water around the dozen holes. You will also notice that there is little to no sealing on the many holes for fasteners and retainers in the roof. I found 1, yes ONE! seal on the bolts. The flange of the nuts in the spoiler have small o-rings on them. This is all mind-boggling really. Both side of my window frame are cracked about 6" from the edge, as most others have found. The urethane window seal to the body is fine. If you want to seal the frame yourself, you should clean out the giant "gutter" on top of the window with soapy water and a brush and forget about using crap silicone. Get some self-leveling urethane or better yet body seam sealer that will adhere and remain elastic. There is no way that Kent silicone will do any good long term. If you're like me and you want to get rid of this crap slider, stay tuned I will post that DIY after the new GM solid window arrives.
  5. Stay tuned ya'll...I just ordered a solid rear glass to convert my slider. This might seem crazy to some but my options are 1) let the dealer "fix" the leak and we all know how that is turning out or 2) trade the truck or 3) fix it myself permanently. I like the truck, don't want to trade it and I never wanted the slider anyway and I definitely don't want silicone goobered all over a $55k truck so solid window it is. The GM glass is coming out of Canada apparently there isn't much inventory. I am going to do some dis-assembly and prep this weekend I'll let ya'll know how it goes!
  6. Another one down. 23K miles and I thought maybe I dodged the bullet until now, sigh. August 2018 build date.
  7. Oh wow sorry you're dealing with this. What a crappy dealership, which one is it?
  8. Today? Drove it like I stole it because gas is like $1. Hammer down!
  9. Kevin, same truck same level kit here. I finally decided on the Rough Country forged aluminum arms (of course apples and oranges compared with the big boy stuff) but for a stock replacement with improved angle they are much higher quality than I expected and will be direct fit. The bushings are same as factory arms, the ball joint seems decent. I don't have any reason to go all out and I tend to not keep trucks very long so I don't want to give away big $ mods. These fit my needs for $399. https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-forged-aluminum-upper-control-arms-29501.html
  10. I doubt it hurt your ride, more likely the Eibach rear shocks improved it. I currently have only Bilstein rears on my Trail Boss waiting for the Bilstein fronts to be released. My guess is the guy sold it (obviously) and didn't get around to it, or didn't do it because it costs more if you pay for labor, needs an alignment, etc. Perfectly fine to leave it, but you'd probably be pleased with Eibach fronts as well...
  11. Mike, thank you so much for the information! I just installed 5100 rear shocks yesterday, then e-mailed Bilstein about the front shocks. I received a reply from Bilstein this morning: "once they are released they will be in our catalog. Looks like sometime in June or July". Please keep us posted! My impression of the rear shocks is the same as it has been for me before, seems like the rear is less "bouncy" after hitting a bump, and feels a little softer where it counts.
  12. Never got around to it, sold after 4 or 5 months of owning it.
  13. Crazy question...has anyone else considered changing the rear window to solid glass? I have the thought in my head because 1) It seems inevitable that it WILL leak and I don't want the dealership's hands on my headliner, spoiler, trim, etc. and 2) I never wanted the option but convenience group II had other stuff I wanted.
  14. I have this on my 2019 Trail Boss with non-factory tires. I only had to adjust approximately 3.5% but it has improved transmission performance the speedo is now matched perfectly to GPS and gas mileage is more accurate.
  15. SORRY FELLAS I DON"T THINK THE FIX IS GOOD. Had 18,000 miles and no problems. Went in this Monday 1/27 for three recalls, was assured the new calibration update was NOT causing problems. Went to pick up the truck in the evening - had a check engine light for DTC U0129 lost comm brake system control module (had a scanner with me) which they claimed was NOT at all present during or after the programming. The next day I was assured that they checked everything and did multiple test drives and found no issues. I went to pick it up again and guess what, no remote start due to current DTC's which somehow magically appeared again and nobody at the dealership could experience so I had to. It had 13 codes, 11 from BCM, 3 from TCM and 1 from SRS. Codes have been cleared and now I am waiting for the next problem. So three trips to the dealer now and a truck that was working fine is F'd. I'm just waiting for my brake failure at this point.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.