Maybe it's too blurry, but it's roughly 7000 miles between 1st and 3rd column from the left. 1st column is latest (DI30 oil), 3rd column is first oil change, it came with 0w20 dealer oil. 2nd column is what's typical of factory oil for this engine. Since dealer did first oil change, sample from 3/1 was roughly 7300 miles. Hope that makes better sense!
Attached is the comparison of Driven brand DI30 to whatever 0W20 (hopefully synthetic) chevy dealer would put in when they do oil change prior to sale. Daily driven around 50 miles a day, no towing nor moderately/heavily loaded bed. I dont beat on it often either. If it matters, I run premium as well. DI30 definitely delivers for reduction in fuel content in oil as advertised. Was hoping to run around 10000 miles, but seems with how I daily drive ~7000miles is all it will do with this engine before it starts breaking down. Again, changed this based on engine computer indication %. Sent this to Driven to get their thoughts, will post that when I get a response. SH873320091418330.pdf
Installed driver one a couple weeks ago, motor wouldnt fully fold every time and sounded like it was struggling. Ended up having to ship the driver mirror back so they could work on it to get it right. Boost Auto Parts not only paid for the shipping to and from them, they were nice enough to swap the shell that I had ceramic coated onto the new fold motor so I didnt have to pay to get it re-ceramic coated. Turns out the original motor just had a little too much physical resistance to folding and was causing the load sensing switches to trip earlier than intended. They swapped it out, sent it back, I installed it, works great so far. So far happy with them, wish the lower mirror would angle a little more, but I can't complain too much since they're at least convex as opposed to the ones that came with the truck that were flat and basically useless. Heated lower is nice, but if I were to buy them again, I'd probably go without them, I overestimated how useful they would be. They perform as advertised 100%, its just the top mirror allows me to see just enough to the point where it makes the lower heater not worth the money in my opinion in hindsight. (Also found out the heaters are triggered by your rear defog button when rear defog is equipped at least, never knew that) I also haven't wired in the thing that allows me to tie the spot lights on the outer edges of the mirror to reverse lights, just haven't found the time. Will probably wait until next summer to do that mod.
also i figured out, that I can make my display turn off after like 15s and make the beeping going away. I plan on hiding mine in a similar area.
UPDATE: after pestering rexing more than a couple times and them giving me unrelated answers, and after returning mine and getting a new one because it was defective out of the box apparently, i got them to give me an answer on fusing: Each wire on the permanent install harness, draws less than 1A. The smallest fuse I could get in the ATR micro2 style is 5A, so i left the original size fuse in the existing fuse slot of the add-a-circuit, then installed a 5A fuse in each of the added circuit slots for each add-a-circuit. Finally got my fuse boxed all closed up and everything works how I want, just waiting to have a friend help me get it mounted the way I want, using the suction cup mount for the mean time.
update: You will either need to rewire the harness exactly how boost auto parts says to, OR contact dealer - give them VIN - then they tell you what door harness you will need. I had intermittent issues with my existing harness, so I opted to just get new OEM harnesses that were correct for the mirrors I was planning to change to. YOU WILL HAVE TO DRILL A HOLE 4TH HOLE IN YOUR DOOR IF YOU HAD NORMAL STYLE MIRRORS BEFORE Got passenger side done so far, and it works great!
Yea they aren't doing phones right now because of COVID, so email is it. In the beginning they responded somewhat quickly, but not anymore....even gmail was like 'its been a while since they responded, would you like to email again' hahaha When powered on the display is always on for v3, you have to press the power button to toggle the display off and you hold it to shut the camera down. I dont know if this is something you can change in settings though. I want to hide it somewhat behind me rear view mirror so only the camera lens is visible and I'd like the screen to be off. We'll see what they say...I just want to know what fuse size to use so I can close my fuse box up, been driving around with the cover off so I dont have to disassemble it again haha.
So I've had it in for a couple weeks now and it works...mostly. Sometime when I get in and start the truck, it seems like its actually working but instead of seeing the Rexing logo, its just all white screen and will stay that way until you power off. But the recording light still blinks and it makes the same chimes when you power on and power off, I still have to check the memory to see if its recording on the days that its all white. Even if I power cycled it it wouldnt go away, it usually goes back to normal the next time I use the vehicle or the next day. Another time, the image was rotated and somewhat off screen, but once I power cycled it it went back to normal. And I understand this is 100% because of COVID, but Rexing customer service is super slow right now. I dont hold it against them cuz of COVID, but still annoying. Still waiting for answer on what size fuse to use just for the camera circuit. The fuse size they note is for a combined existing circuit plus the camera circuit, so if i were to reuse the same sized fuse just for the camera circuit - it would most likely be oversized.
I did Driven DI30. saw some racers using it, says has good protection against some of the downfalls of direct injection engines. I keep forgetting to check if dexos approved, worst case I lose a lil fuel economy. Did oil analysis on factory oil on first change, will do another oil analysis after oil change coming up, see if there's any difference in contaminants. I'm going off the computer as well for oil change intervals. I plan to post report comparison.
Turns out I was using the fuse tap incorrectly. For those that are trying to use the fuse taps from autozone from Eaton Bussmann, here are some instructions for how it works since their packaging doesn't say it (ignore Lumision): The pictures advertised only show one fuse in it so thats what I did. That was not correct. Once I actually probed on it, here is what I found: - The top right slot, closest to the wire, has continuity constantly with the wire. - The top left slot will only have continuity once you have a fuse inserted. - The top left and bottom left slots and the left blade have continuity constantly. - The bottom right slot and the right blade have continuity constantly.
Was able to verify that those in the left fuse block work as described (did not test if any of them go away after a while with the key off though) on my 2016 silverado....However, the camera is still not coming. So either my crimps are bad for the fuse taps or the little harness module is dead. I reached out to Rexing regarding it not working, waiting for them to respond. I will be probing the wires after the crimps to see if the crimps are good or not. If its good, then i'm guessing the harness was a dud out of the box or my camera doesnt like the harness for some reason. I did verify the camera works with the cigarette adapter, but I want to hide it away while not taking up my outlets in the truck, so hence the harness purchase. SO long story short: When using the left side fuse block between driver door and dash - fuse position 9 has constant power (has a 15A ATR style fuse (called Micro blade fuse)) - fuse position 31 has switched/ignition power (has a 10A ATR style fuse) Whether it can be used long term on a 2016 I cannot vouch for yet, but it works for @catpartsman in his 2015.
They are in fact ATR micro fuses. However, I'm not getting it to work. Going to see if its my fuse taps.
So far, @catpartsman said to use fuse position 9 for constant power, and then position 31 for switched/ignition power. (9 and 31 are from the fuse list in the owners manual that I linked above). Position 9 just has a dash for description, so I'm not sure its populated. This might just be a difference between 2015 and my 2016. He also believes these require Micro style fuses, not ATM (mini). I will confirm when I get home (if I remember haha)
Oh yea I read that one, it doesn't get me my switched power with confidence though, its just a guess. But like you said, this will give me my constant 12VDC.
JUST A HEADS UP, someone did that to this truck with the fuse box in the engine compartment (I'm guessing for external lights or something). You can PERMANENTLY screw up the fingers that the fuse slides into by jamming a wire in with the fuse....this caused my truck to lose power and not start intermittently and ended up being covered by my ext. warranty where they replaced the ENTIRE engine bay fuse box and harness.....all because someone decided to jam a wire in with a fuse. Definitely do the fuse tap, preferably the one that you can replace the fuse independently so you don't have to cut out the whole fuse tap if you pop the fuse on accident. I didnt have the truck for like a week, so it can definitely affect plans haha
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