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Found 11 results

  1. I just bought a 1991 Chevy C70 Kodiak C7H042 6.6L 403 CUI Diesel in amazingly great condition. I am now the 3rd owner of this dump truck. The first owner took great care of the vehicle, everything thing appears to be well maintained and no shade tree work. All the parts, wiring and accessories appear to be original and well maintained. However, the second owner bought this truck and never used it. It has sat in a field for about four years. To get to the point, I completely serviced the truck and replaced the batteries, checked the fuses, grounds, relays and I have absolutely no power to the truck. No interior or exterior lights and no lights on the instrument panel. What could be the issue?
  2. Intermittent Door Lock Cycling, Chime Operation Wont stop, Rear Access Open and Battery Drain issues. Do you guys have any fix for this? I just change new battery and its still doing the same thing! here is a video of it
  3. Has anyone had any issues with their 08 silverado 1500 shorting out? I don't know if its a short, ground issue or a bad body control module. My issue only happens when I am driving over 60mph. Intermittently when hitting the blinkers or the brakes the electrical system freaks out. Gauges start going crazy, radio goes out, door locks lock and unlock over and over, airbag light comes on, abs light. Seems to be happening more and more frequently. The other day it through it into 4 low and totally died on me. Took positive lead off battery put back on fired up with no problems. I just don't want to spend money on one thing and it not being that then another and another. Wondering if anyone knows what this could be. I have no aftermarket electronics. I recorded it happening and put it on YouTube. Here is the video link
  4. Bad Ground Somewhere

    I was recently wiring an aftermarket switch and the terminals got bent and the positive and ground leads made contact and after several sparks the visor lights went out, left brake light and blinker will not function, and left side windows (front and back) stopped working. There’s no power getting to it at all. Also when it’s dark and the auto sensor turns the lights on, when I apply the brake the instrument cluster backlight cuts off and lights up again when i let off the brake. Total electrical screw up and i found out that this is causing a serious issue. Started smelling burning rubber and metal both through the air vents and outside the truck while standing by it. I later found out it’s shorting and getting severely hot around the right side of the mega fuse connected to the battery. So bad that it’s melted the plastic on the fuse and the fuse mount, rubber around the ends of the wire is melted and the bolts have become brittle. I’ve since replaced the fuse, need to replace the fuse mount. Still need to find where the ground is. Here’s the tricky part, tested the continuity of all fuses inside the cab and under the hood. MOST fuses in the cab ARE NOT even getting power, yet some are. None of the fuses are burnt or blown in both locations. Under the hood, some are not getting power but most are. I’m not savvy enough to know what the issue is but my thoughts are the problem lies between the battery and the fuse boxes. Maybe a burnt wire causing the ground? Bad wires? I have no clue...can anyone help? Any ideas, solutions, has anyone dealt with this? Also the lock and unlock will not work, yet you can hear the relay clicking when you press the button on the front doors and on the key fob. The lights blink, and even the alarm sounds if a door is opened but they do not lock or unlock. Thanks in advance! P.S. this is causing the engine to cut off due to the wires connected to the mega fuse losing contact. As i drive, with enough rattle they lose contact, and I lose power and eventually the engine cuts off. I have to jump it off constantly and pray that I make it where i’m going. It rattles back in contact and then back out. So I need to fix this quick, it’s killing my battery and straining my alternator.
  5. Just recently purchased my 92 Gmc C2500, I’ve noticed now that the gauges have a lose movement to them, and they are constantly changing. My RPM and Spedometer gauges seem to be working fine, but the temperature gauge one moment will be in the centre where it’s suppose to be while running then dip down, or up out of no where. I never know how much gas I have because the fuel gauge will tell me different readings every few minutes. The oil pressure gauge has the same speratic movement. the parking break light will also come on and stay on after about 5 mins of driving. Now I just purchased a new battery when I got the vehicle and from the looks of it the alternator was changed recently, the old one was in the back, when I bought it lol. When the truck is running idle with nothing on I’m sitting just under 14 volts according to the gauge reading, when i turn on the heater or any of the other accessories it will dip down more and more, I don’t think this is normal it should sit at 14 constantly right ? I’m just looking for suggestions on what could be wrong? Thanks.
  6. Hi there, this is a two part post, so please bare with me, First, I'm wondering what everyone recommends for lift/level on a 2013 Siverado. It is a Z71 4x4, and the previous owner had installed Monroe shocks and struts. There is 1.25 inch blocks on the rear leafs (leaves?), but I can't tell how much lift the front shocks gave the truck, and what it would look like when I take those out and put a new lift/level kit in. Second, I'm wondering whether this setup is considered a level, and if that's the case, how can I gain as much more ground clearance as possible without stressing the driveline and axles too much. I currently have 265/70/r18 tires on the truck and I know tires are what give the truck ground clearance so I guess bigger tires is what I'm really looking for?Any inout is very much appreciated!
  7. New here, first post. I'm having an issue with my trailer lights not working. The brakes work and the breakaway battery charges, no lights though. Tested the the trailer lights at the trailer plug with a 12 volt power source and they worked. I have no ground on the truck side when measured with a meter (not sure how the brakes work). At the truck, I put an analog meter (positive lead to the +12) and (negative lead to the Left or Right tail lights) and got 12 volts with the hazards on. Everything worked last year, but I pulled three other trailers between then and now. I think it is a fuse issue, but I can't figure out which fuses are tied to the trailer light operation. I found 3 fuses I could tie to the trailer by the abbreviation TRL, and 2 were blown. I replaced those and still no lights. Any ideas? Are there any other fuses tied to the trailer? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  8. The negative battery terminal is tucked away under the lip of the hood, just enough to prevent a jumper cable getting to it. I figured there had to be a local ground somewhere, but after looking around like an idiot for too long, I checked the manual. The manual shows it here for the 4.3L and says 5.3L and 6.2 Similar. So again, I looked all over. And saw nothing. Now I'm feeling dumb. I went to get my oil changed today and I basically said, this is going to sound ****ing stupid, but could you show me how to attach jumper cables on this truck, I can't figure it out for the life of me, there's no local ground, and every metal surface under the hood is painted. He said he was going to go over it with the tech and get back to me. The only solution they could come up with was attaching the negative cable directly to the alternator. I understand that this will work, but why is my truck missing the local ground? Can someone else check and see if they have a local ground? I just feel like it's a shitty cop out, yeah, I can attach it to the alternator, but these aren't cheap trucks by any means, you think they'd at least include a solid ground to attach to? Thanks!
  9. So I just had an aftermarket Pioneer Stereo installed, and everything looks and sounds great, except theres a constant static in the background when the stereo is on. It does not fluctuate with engine speed, but it does increase in volume as you turn up the volume on the stereo. I've been looking on google and think it could possibly be that it isn't grounded well, where is it the stereo grounded at so that I could check the connection? OR, could it be something else altogether?
  10. Hello, I'm installing tow mirrors with the led turn signals on my 92 silverado. I need to find a good ground location. I know bare metal is good for ground but j csnt seem to find any. Any locations under the dash, door panels, hood will work. Thank you for the help
  11. Current Ground Location

    From the album MoriMoto - Mopar HID Upgrade

    I need to move this to somewhere else, as my HD radio instantly goes into search mode when I turn the Headlights on.
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