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Drives

Found 14 results

  1. My 09 silverado 5.3 4x4 has shifted hard into 2nd and some into 3rd for several years now. A few months ago I decided to fix it. Codes were for transmission control solenoids, module, oil pressure sensor, misfires...etc. codes like P0700 P0717 P0521 P0523. I replaced all 3 shift solenoids, oil pressure sensor, and immediately the truck shifted like new again and it lasted for a few days or a week. And it started shifting hard again. Really hard. It's so frustrating. And it's throwing all the same codes again. Recently, my truck started misfiring so badly the entire truck was shaking. It was running on two cylinders. All of the ignition colis were failing all at once and the truck was not drivable. Btw, I just changed out those ignition coils, plugs and wires just two years ago, all Ac Delco plugs/wires and duralast ignition coils. So anyways, I replaced all of the coils plugs and wires again this week and the engine no longer misfires, running on all cylinders again. And for a few hours after, there was zero hard shifting now. It was running great, like new again. Shifting smooth as could be. But after making it into the city and hitting traffic lights and stop signs, it didn't take long for the very hard shifts to come back. I've read on this and have been dealing with this in time and parts for so long now. I've read about ground wires could be the cause of all of this. I have replaced everything the computer has suggested, and for a short time after the repairs, the truck would run like new. But the hard shift always comes back. I know there's people out there that have had this same problem. I've read a lot about it but without actually finding the grounds for these specific sensors, I've hit a dead end. The issue just keeps coming back as it's obvious there is a root cause I am not getting to. Please share any knowledge or experiences on this topic. And any knowledge of the location of these grounds may be at. Thank you!
  2. First time posting but have searched the forums for years and have always found what I needed. Well this time I'm stumped, so I have a 1994 gmc k1500 pickup with a rebuilt 350 tbi bored .030 out with a stage 2 cam and long tube headers. (About 4000 miles on engine.) new distributor, plugs, wires, vss, So here's what's going on, the speedometer jumps around super erratically but when I turn the heater on it seems to change how much the speedo jumps around. If its on high it jumps around the least. Low or off its just bouncing off 85mph like bouncing to the point I can hear it slamming into whatever stops the needle from going any further. When I turn the turn signal on left it makes the radio light dim with each flash. The odometer turns constantly when while sitting in park. I have replaced the vss at the very end of the trans where the rear drive shift meets. I was drive the other day and the truck just didn't want to move seemed like it was just constantly back firing or misfiring. I have been trying to check all the engine grounds but not sure what all needs to be grounded. Any info/advice would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Hello. I have a 1995 1/2 gmc sierra k2500. I have intermittent ABS & Brake lights in dash. I also have 4wd not functioning. I also have malfunctioning heater. On one schematic, it looked like they all go through ABS unit. ABS unit is sealed and unable to come apart to resolder connections (cannot unseal unit for reflow repair). Obtained used ABS unit. Tried to redo chassis ground. Supposed to be located under drivers door. That ground is non-existent. Was never there. Who knows where the alternate ground spots are for this vehicle. I'm adding ground strap at ABS unit, down to frame. Want to find original ground. Heater has all new components. Loses power at fuse box when put under load. Need help. Please.
  4. I just bought a 1991 Chevy C70 Kodiak C7H042 6.6L 403 CUI Diesel in amazingly great condition. I am now the 3rd owner of this dump truck. The first owner took great care of the vehicle, everything thing appears to be well maintained and no shade tree work. All the parts, wiring and accessories appear to be original and well maintained. However, the second owner bought this truck and never used it. It has sat in a field for about four years. To get to the point, I completely serviced the truck and replaced the batteries, checked the fuses, grounds, relays and I have absolutely no power to the truck. No interior or exterior lights and no lights on the instrument panel. What could be the issue?
  5. Intermittent Door Lock Cycling, Chime Operation Wont stop, Rear Access Open and Battery Drain issues. Do you guys have any fix for this? I just change new battery and its still doing the same thing! here is a video of it
  6. Has anyone had any issues with their 08 silverado 1500 shorting out? I don't know if its a short, ground issue or a bad body control module. My issue only happens when I am driving over 60mph. Intermittently when hitting the blinkers or the brakes the electrical system freaks out. Gauges start going crazy, radio goes out, door locks lock and unlock over and over, airbag light comes on, abs light. Seems to be happening more and more frequently. The other day it through it into 4 low and totally died on me. Took positive lead off battery put back on fired up with no problems. I just don't want to spend money on one thing and it not being that then another and another. Wondering if anyone knows what this could be. I have no aftermarket electronics. I recorded it happening and put it on YouTube. Here is the video link
  7. I was recently wiring an aftermarket switch and the terminals got bent and the positive and ground leads made contact and after several sparks the visor lights went out, left brake light and blinker will not function, and left side windows (front and back) stopped working. There’s no power getting to it at all. Also when it’s dark and the auto sensor turns the lights on, when I apply the brake the instrument cluster backlight cuts off and lights up again when i let off the brake. Total electrical screw up and i found out that this is causing a serious issue. Started smelling burning rubber and metal both through the air vents and outside the truck while standing by it. I later found out it’s shorting and getting severely hot around the right side of the mega fuse connected to the battery. So bad that it’s melted the plastic on the fuse and the fuse mount, rubber around the ends of the wire is melted and the bolts have become brittle. I’ve since replaced the fuse, need to replace the fuse mount. Still need to find where the ground is. Here’s the tricky part, tested the continuity of all fuses inside the cab and under the hood. MOST fuses in the cab ARE NOT even getting power, yet some are. None of the fuses are burnt or blown in both locations. Under the hood, some are not getting power but most are. I’m not savvy enough to know what the issue is but my thoughts are the problem lies between the battery and the fuse boxes. Maybe a burnt wire causing the ground? Bad wires? I have no clue...can anyone help? Any ideas, solutions, has anyone dealt with this? Also the lock and unlock will not work, yet you can hear the relay clicking when you press the button on the front doors and on the key fob. The lights blink, and even the alarm sounds if a door is opened but they do not lock or unlock. Thanks in advance! P.S. this is causing the engine to cut off due to the wires connected to the mega fuse losing contact. As i drive, with enough rattle they lose contact, and I lose power and eventually the engine cuts off. I have to jump it off constantly and pray that I make it where i’m going. It rattles back in contact and then back out. So I need to fix this quick, it’s killing my battery and straining my alternator.
  8. Just recently purchased my 92 Gmc C2500, I’ve noticed now that the gauges have a lose movement to them, and they are constantly changing. My RPM and Spedometer gauges seem to be working fine, but the temperature gauge one moment will be in the centre where it’s suppose to be while running then dip down, or up out of no where. I never know how much gas I have because the fuel gauge will tell me different readings every few minutes. The oil pressure gauge has the same speratic movement. the parking break light will also come on and stay on after about 5 mins of driving. Now I just purchased a new battery when I got the vehicle and from the looks of it the alternator was changed recently, the old one was in the back, when I bought it lol. When the truck is running idle with nothing on I’m sitting just under 14 volts according to the gauge reading, when i turn on the heater or any of the other accessories it will dip down more and more, I don’t think this is normal it should sit at 14 constantly right ? I’m just looking for suggestions on what could be wrong? Thanks.
  9. Hi there, this is a two part post, so please bare with me, First, I'm wondering what everyone recommends for lift/level on a 2013 Siverado. It is a Z71 4x4, and the previous owner had installed Monroe shocks and struts. There is 1.25 inch blocks on the rear leafs (leaves?), but I can't tell how much lift the front shocks gave the truck, and what it would look like when I take those out and put a new lift/level kit in. Second, I'm wondering whether this setup is considered a level, and if that's the case, how can I gain as much more ground clearance as possible without stressing the driveline and axles too much. I currently have 265/70/r18 tires on the truck and I know tires are what give the truck ground clearance so I guess bigger tires is what I'm really looking for?Any inout is very much appreciated!
  10. New here, first post. I'm having an issue with my trailer lights not working. The brakes work and the breakaway battery charges, no lights though. Tested the the trailer lights at the trailer plug with a 12 volt power source and they worked. I have no ground on the truck side when measured with a meter (not sure how the brakes work). At the truck, I put an analog meter (positive lead to the +12) and (negative lead to the Left or Right tail lights) and got 12 volts with the hazards on. Everything worked last year, but I pulled three other trailers between then and now. I think it is a fuse issue, but I can't figure out which fuses are tied to the trailer light operation. I found 3 fuses I could tie to the trailer by the abbreviation TRL, and 2 were blown. I replaced those and still no lights. Any ideas? Are there any other fuses tied to the trailer? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  11. The negative battery terminal is tucked away under the lip of the hood, just enough to prevent a jumper cable getting to it. I figured there had to be a local ground somewhere, but after looking around like an idiot for too long, I checked the manual. The manual shows it here for the 4.3L and says 5.3L and 6.2 Similar. So again, I looked all over. And saw nothing. Now I'm feeling dumb. I went to get my oil changed today and I basically said, this is going to sound ****ing stupid, but could you show me how to attach jumper cables on this truck, I can't figure it out for the life of me, there's no local ground, and every metal surface under the hood is painted. He said he was going to go over it with the tech and get back to me. The only solution they could come up with was attaching the negative cable directly to the alternator. I understand that this will work, but why is my truck missing the local ground? Can someone else check and see if they have a local ground? I just feel like it's a shitty cop out, yeah, I can attach it to the alternator, but these aren't cheap trucks by any means, you think they'd at least include a solid ground to attach to? Thanks!
  12. So I just had an aftermarket Pioneer Stereo installed, and everything looks and sounds great, except theres a constant static in the background when the stereo is on. It does not fluctuate with engine speed, but it does increase in volume as you turn up the volume on the stereo. I've been looking on google and think it could possibly be that it isn't grounded well, where is it the stereo grounded at so that I could check the connection? OR, could it be something else altogether?
  13. Hello, I'm installing tow mirrors with the led turn signals on my 92 silverado. I need to find a good ground location. I know bare metal is good for ground but j csnt seem to find any. Any locations under the dash, door panels, hood will work. Thank you for the help
  14. From the album: MoriMoto - Mopar HID Upgrade

    I need to move this to somewhere else, as my HD radio instantly goes into search mode when I turn the Headlights on.
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