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Showing results for tags 'speedometer'.
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I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd with the 4L60-e 4 speed transmission. Currently I have no speedometer and despite the transmission shifting very well, it skips second gear consistently (no intermittent functioning). This is the ONLY gear that it has issues with (reverse and the rest of the gears are good). Here is the story... I bought this truck being told the transmission was shot. Initially it would not shift past 1st and also had a functioning reverse. I had the tranny swapped with an equivalent from a suburban. It improved slightly but still there is no speedometer or second gear. NO ENGINE CODES have come up throughout this entire time including prior to tranny being swapped (this includes no ABS lights). Here are the different problems I have found on the internet that I have tried to rule out: VSS- A mechanic with a good computer states that all 3 Vehicle Speed Sensors read correct speeds in real time on the road Ignition switch- Already changed Fuses/relays- All appear to be intact and functioning Dash cluster- broken connections fixed restoring all function besides speedometer Transmission treatment- Lucas treatment put in in case this could be a sticky solenoid to no avail Grounds- All appear to be in excellent condition and no frayed wires visible Low Voltage- New battery in place Help me out! What I can see as being my next options are either changing out the ECU or the wiring harness, neither of which I am desiring to do. Any recommendations from your experience that I may have missed in my internet reading? -
If my stock ‘02 Sierra speedometer goes to 100, could I use say a 2500 cluster that has one that goes to 120? What would be the issues there?
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First time posting but have searched the forums for years and have always found what I needed. Well this time I'm stumped, so I have a 1994 gmc k1500 pickup with a rebuilt 350 tbi bored .030 out with a stage 2 cam and long tube headers. (About 4000 miles on engine.) new distributor, plugs, wires, vss, So here's what's going on, the speedometer jumps around super erratically but when I turn the heater on it seems to change how much the speedo jumps around. If its on high it jumps around the least. Low or off its just bouncing off 85mph like bouncing to the point I can hear it slamming into whatever stops the needle from going any further. When I turn the turn signal on left it makes the radio light dim with each flash. The odometer turns constantly when while sitting in park. I have replaced the vss at the very end of the trans where the rear drive shift meets. I was drive the other day and the truck just didn't want to move seemed like it was just constantly back firing or misfiring. I have been trying to check all the engine grounds but not sure what all needs to be grounded. Any info/advice would be greatly appreciated. -
Hey all. So, my father's 2017 Silverado (base level cluster) shows if the truck is in 8 cyl or 4 cyl AFM mode in the DIC. However, I cannot seem to find any way to tell what AFM mode I am in on my 2020 Sierra 1500 with the base level cluster/DIC. Does anyone have any clue how you can tell what mode the truck is running in? The main reason I'm asking is because I want to get one of the Range AFM disablers, and I'd like to see, live, if it ever switches in to 4 cyl mode. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide -
I got my hands on a 2013 Tahoe Police Gauge Cluster with a blunt cut harness. I would like to know if anyone has the wiring diagram for the gauge cluster circuit. May also be called Instrument Cluster Circuit? Images or Links are fine Thanks! Dillon -
When you set the instrument panel to metric the analog speedometer gauge goes to MPH. When you change settings to U.S. the speedometer reads KM/H. However the analog gauge doesn’t match the digital no matter what. I’ve taken it to the dealer and even tried dealing directly with GM. All I get is the run around. They’re blaming on the truck originally being sold in Canada although it was assembled in the US. Seems the cluster is malfunctioning to me. I clicked a couple pictures with the cruise set so maybe a little better understanding. Any ideas?
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So, I recently started driving my dad's old 98 Chevy Silverado Z71, and I've noticed the speedometer is reading upwards of 20 mph faster than I'm actually going. He said that he accidentally pressed the 4 Lo switch one time without following the proper procedure and ever since then it has been off. Can the four low gear actually mess up the speedometer or is something else wrong? And how would I fix it? -
Greetings all. Looking for some advice on why I might keep blowing speedometer transducers. I've gone through two replacements and although they work fine for about 30 minutes, they eventually just stop and the speedometer fails. Any idea what would cause the transducers' to keep failing? Rebuilt transmission with new speedometer plastic gear in transmission. I'm at a loss.
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Hi, I recently pulled my t-case and replaced the housing on it due to the pump rub issue. After re-installing everything was fine for about 1 mile then the abs light came on and I got "service brakes " message and my speedo quit working, which also causes my trans to shift hard and erradictly . Long story short.... I've checked all the fuses , replaced the speed senor in the t-case (as far as I know this is the only one the truck has , it's a base work truck trim) and the wiring harness to the t -case and speed sensor, and no dice. The only codes that it is showing on the reader at the local Oreilly's is mass airflow and knock sensor. 4x4 still engages fine, the motor in the front axle works too. Btw, It's a 2003 2500hd 4x4 6.0 Silverado base work truck. If anyone has any info on this matter that could help I would sure appreciate it , thanks. Quote Edit -
Hi, I recently pulled my t-case and replace
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New custom GT gauge faces are here!!!!
US Dashworks posted a topic in 2014 - 2019 Silverado & Sierra
We are proud to announce the "GT" line of gauge faces. you can order them now, check out https://usdashworks.com/product/style-gt/ to check them out and place your order.
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Hello I just purchased a 2018 Silverado 1500 with the “custom trim”. I was curious to know if anyone has..or it can be done. I want to put the Denali gauges out of a 2018 Denali in Silverado. Because I do not have steering controls on my current steering. Thank you for helping out?
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We are proud to announce the "GT" line of gauge faces. They are available in white or satin, you can preorder them now, however they will not start shipping until october 30th check out https://usdashworks.com/product/style-gt/ to check them out and place your order.
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I have a 2016 Chevy 2500HD, that has 37” tires. I got a ticket the other day for 87MPH when I had my cruise set at 75MPH. What model of speedohealer do I need to buy? i contacted Healtech and they replied: To confirm compatibility, we need to know whether your car has a speedometer sensor mounted on the gearbox or elsewhere, and is it 2-wire or 3-wire sensor. thank you, Bruce, Dallas, TX
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I have a 2004 Avalanche and recently changed out my front and rear differentials with lower ratios to a 4:10. I bought complete axle assemblies from a wrecked vehicle and installed them myself. The truck runs fine, everything works, but the speedometer is not accurate any more, knew that would happen. I purchased and aftermarket tuner that could adjust for differential changes, it asked what gear ratios vehicle had and I put in the 4:10. Drove my truck and in 1/2 mile my service brake light came on, it would reset after shutting vehicle off, but come back on in 1/2 mile. My understanding of how this system works is that there are two speed sensors for the front wheels and one in the transmission for the rear wheels. The ABS system uses these sensors to detect if slipping of wheels is occurring, so by changing the gear ratios it is changing the relation of the sensor because the engine now has to spin more to go the same distance, but the front sensors are not affected by this. I took the aftermarket tuner back. Could I reflash the pcm with a vin number from the same year truck only with the towing option which has the 4:10 ratios? I had an 2001 Silverado that had an engine replaced, original engine had an EGR valve the replacement did not, so the check engine light was always on. I was able to reflash the VIN number to that of the same vehicle which did not have and EGR valve and my check engine light went out. -
I have a 99 gmc 2500. It’s shiftig very hard and the speedometer will stop working. It doesn’t do it every time I drive it and it doesn’t do it the whole time I drive it.. it’s just on and off. The check engine light is NOT on. Please help! Also has a new alternator and battery. -
I just picked up an 01 2500HD 6.0. I know of the numerous issues with stepper motors and other speedometer cluster issues. But what happened has me questioning if it's just the cluster. Anyways, on with the details. - Has 191k - Speedometer worked fine (but was 12mph low at all speeds) - Tach was accurate (but would randomly jump to 5k then back to normal) - Gas gauge bounced around (but after a while seemed to be accurate) - Volts read 3V high - Temp was on (or close) - Trans temp was at 275 with the truck off (and maxed the instant you hit accesory power) - Oil Pressure worked - ABS Light was on (found some brake issues, so must have been working) - CE light was off (but dummy came on during accessory power on) - Cruise Control Light Worked - Message Center Worked - Turn Signals Worked - PRNDL Lights all there - All Backlights Worked I got it home and it had a light bar wired right to the battery that didn't have a switch. So I picked up a switch and hooked that up. Did nothing else with it. Then had to bring the wife to work. Fired it up and Speedo, Tach, Gas, Volts, Trans, Temp were all bottomed out. ABS light wasn't on, Message Center won't turn on, PRNDL lights are gone, and Cruise Control Light doesn't come on. Oil Pressure still works, as do blinkers, CE dummy light (still shows during accesory power), and backlights. Seems strange that all of that died at once. Or that the ABS and Cruise lights don't work, but the CE Light does? Is this just a cluster issue? Or is there more I should be looking into? -
Hi fellow truckers, A friend told me about this site and I hope someone has had success with the same problem I have. I'm driving a 2000 Silverado 4x4 extended cab with the 5.3L and an automatic (and 183,000 miles at last good reading). Last fall, I was going down the road and noticed a police car behind me. I checked my speedometer to make sure I wasn't over the limit and was surprised to see it reading 0! Working with my mechanic, he said he had seen this a few times and it was always the instrument cluster. The gauges are all stepper motor driven and sometimes they break. My odometer was also not working, but I thought maybe it was counting off of the speedometer so we pulled the cluster and he sent it off to a rebuilder he deals with. Chevy wanted something like $750 to rebuild it but he found a reliable source for a little over $250 and they replace all the steppers on your original cluster and test it before sending it back. We got my cluster back about 10 days later and when we reinstalled it, it was still dead. Since that didn't work, he assumed the sending module down at the tranny/transfer case was bad instead. I picked up a replacement and put that in; still doesn't work! Now, the message center still reports "CHANGE ENGINE OIL" when it's time so I'm guessing the path from sending unit to computer is still working but something between the speed/mileage output of the computer to my cluster is the problem. Has anyone had a similar issue they were able to resolve? My son works as a shop foreman for BMW and was able to send me a thick volume of wiring diagrams and other related data on my truck but not physical correlations as to where the things I'm seeing in the prints are actually located in the truck so I can trace them so far. Thanks for any help, "Bampa"
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Now that I finally got all my dash lights working with Blue Leds, I noticed my speedometer has stayed on "100"'. I have not test driven it yet to check for shifting problems. Question: Do you think removing the negative battery connection and re attaching to check for the proper lighting of each LED (I had to do this about 6 times, my bad, newbie here) would have damaged the stepper motor on the speedometer? Would a reset (removing the negative connection) reset the dial? OR Should I removed the cluster assembly again and use gravity to swing it the other way? Then re-install. Would LEDS interfere with the cluster? Thanks for any help with this. The Blue lights are nice but I purchased them on Amazon for around $12 and the base contacts were about 30 degrees off from the OEM twist bases. Took me awhile to solve the issue. (TMSANIASTI -That's my story and I am sticking to it) -
Hey guys, I'm brand new to full size trucks. had a s15 for about 12 years but finally got a brand new 2002 silverado... anyway, the guy i bought it from said the speed was off due to the bigger tires he put on it, but this isn't right. It is reading about 10 mph faster than i am actually traveling, (at 60 it is around 70). but it doesn't stick at 30, or 120, or any of that, it is just WAY off... i saw some threads on it sticking but haven't seen that yet. And also, not sure becuase it's new to me, but it seems like the tach is reading a little low too, like if it was thinking i am going 70mph, the rpm's are just reading about 1500 or something... idk, just looked off to me... anyway, is there an easy way to calibrate this issue? or is it have to go into the dealer or what am i looking at does anyone have an idea? thanks for any help... is this the best silverado forum? i feel like there's way more out there for my smaller truck than there is for the full size.
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Hi My son just got a new (for him) 2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD. It has 275/60R20 tires on it. Looks like the stock size would have been 245/75R16. We think the speedometer may never have been recalibrated to account for this. To address this would we need to have it done via a programmer, change a speedometer cable gear or would the gear ratio in the rear end need to be changed (stock is 4.10, from calculators looks like it should be 4.44 and pricey). Or am I mixing some apples and oranges here and gear ratio has nothing to do with that and, if so, what would the benefit to changing (or detriment if left as is) be to changing that. I'm also assuming that if the speedometer was never recalibrator, the odometer is likely off. Thanks much for the education. -
Hypertech speedometer calibrator for GM trucks 2006 to current. This will recalibrate the computer settings for those who have larger than stock tires, it will also recalibrate the truck for any change in rear end gear ratio. Buyer is responsible for verifying compatibility with their vehicle. Price is $200 or best reasonable offer.
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Hey guys my speedo is off about 6mph when I get above 40mph (GPS has me going +6mph faster than speedo). I got my hypertech tuner for multiple reasons but one was that I was hoping to correct speedo calibration. I didn't do enough reading beforehand and it looks like the only way to fix this is through changing the tire size. The problem is I have the stock tires! So I figured what the heck I put in 31" for the size after measuring diameter and sure enough it didn't fix anything. My questions is... Can I increase tire size until my speedo is properly calibrated or would that throw something else off and create a potential problem? Any advice would be appreciated
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Looking to make some customization to your 03-06 GM full size truck or SUV dash? Our company is well known for our custom clusters. Buy brand new or reman with an exchange. Exchanges require a refundable $200 core deposit and core must be repairable. Mix and Match Pointers, Add LED's, Add the transmission temp gauge, change the face to an Escalade style Black, White, or Silver, add an Escalade platinum lens. So many combinations and just a few are shown below. Please call us during business hours for questions, pricing, and to order. 860-583-0629 M-F 9-5 EST Stock 1500 cluster start at $200 and price can go up $400 with customization's. We will need our odometer disclaimer form for mileage and VIN programming. All forms needed to complete your order can be found at the following link. http://www.fixmygauges.com/forms.html pictures of other possible combination can be found at our Ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/SPEEDOMETER-SALES-AND-SERVICE/REMAN-TRUCK-CLUSTERS-EXCHANGE-/_i.html?_nkw=03+04+05&_fsub=985009018&_sid=23796228&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 -
Okay, so this represents a ton of firsts for me: First time posting in a forum, first time owning a truck (or any vehicle for that matter), and the first time working on a vehicle, so I humbly ask for your patience and thank you in advance. Please understand that my knowledge of vehicle mechanics is fairly limited, but I do a little better with electronics. I recently purchased a 1989 GMC 2500 for relatively cheap, and was assured that it was very mechanically sound, which it is, I think. I didn't realize that there were a lot of non-mechanical issues with it, even through a test drive. One such issue is with the speedometer. Usually, when it is colder outside, or I am making the first trip of the day, the speedometer works perfect. After that, though, the speedometer doesn't work, and I have to use the GPS on my phone. I have no idea where to start, other than pulling the dash apart, but then I will just get a stupid look on my face and not know what the crap is what. I did check all the fuses, and only one was blown, but more on that later. Another issue is with the odometer. It claims just under 104k on it, which is amazing, until you realize that it is horribly inaccurate. Whenever the speedometer is not working, the odometer is not turning, so I assume that they are linked somehow. However, when the speedometer is working, only the tenth of a mile wheel spins, and nothing clicks over. Both of these can wait, however, until after I get the safety inspection done that is required yearly by the great state of Utah. Other issues are a little more pressing, such as... Headlamps. How do I properly aim them? I did buy a Haynes repair manual from O'Riley Auto Parts, but it wasn't as specific as I would like. It listed two different kinds of headlights, and explained how to aim them, but what is on my truck looks like what both were described as. Another pressing issue is the tail lights. When the head lights are on, there is supposed to be a dim light in the tail lights, right? On the right side tail light, there is. On the left side, there isn't. On top of that, neither of the back up lights nor the license plate lights work. In addition to all this, the hazard lights don't work. Of course, it would help to check the hazard lights if I knew where the button to turn them on and off was located. Now to the blown fuse. This one boggles me. The fuse was for the park lights, also required by law. It is a 25 amp fuse, which is easy enough to replace. However, when I replace it, no matter any thing else in the vehicle, the park lights come on, along with the head lights, and there is nothing I can do to turn them off except for removing the fuse. The park lights come on without the button even being used. I know that this seems like a lot of questions to ask all in one post, and I'm sure that they are covered individually somewhere on the internet, but I really don't know if any of these problems are causing other problems to happen. I really need this truck to pass inspection, and I would really like to do the work myself, as I did get the truck so that I could learn this kind of stuff. And in case you are wondering how in the world did the previous owner get it to pass inspection, he had it registered in a county that doesn't require safety and emission checks. I really wish that I could do that, but I don't have a relative living in one of those counties. Anyway, I do appreciate any and all help that y'all can give. Like I said, I know very little about auto mechanics, but I am trying to learn. Thank you again.
