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Found 16 results

  1. Hello, Has anyone else experienced any shifting issues on their 2019's? The big one I seem to get a hard shift point around 2-4k RPM coming off a stop under light gradual acceleration shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. It's fairly random but seems to be more common after the transmission heats up 150-160 degrees or more, though it'll happen cooler too. The other is when feathering the throttle in traffic the downshifting seems a little harder than it should be, not as hard as the upshift and it doesn't clunk like my old 16' but it's a feeling like driving over a small bump occasionally but it's happened enough while watching the RPM needle shift to think it's not just the coincidence of running over a little bump. Typically during low traffic speeds < 30mph. All in all, the transmission is a vast improvement and is way smother compared to my clunky 2016 5.3L 6 speed Z71 which I traded in with 35k miles after valve sticking issues and a transmission rebuild replaced a fair bit of the transmission (torque converter, valve body, transmission pump). I cant tell if i'm just sensitive to the transmission or if I have something worth pursuing, service department says to give it 1500/2000 miles while the truck is "learning" as mentioned in other threads, I currently have just shy of 1100. After that I dread the "normal behavior" discussion. Overall it's a great truck, really smooth overall and a beast on the open road, in fact it's so smooth most of the time I think it might make the slow speed hiccups seem worse than they are. It's just a concern knowing that if it starts shifting issues at 500 miles, what's it gonna be doing at 20k miles etc.. Thanks everyone for reading! What's your experience? 2019 Silverado 5.3 V8, 4x4, Z71, RST
  2. I have a 2015 GMC Sierra Single Cab 4.3L V6. Pulled into the parking lot at work this morning with no issues. Went to back into a parking spot and when I shifted into reverse, EVERYTHING in the cab shut off for about 3 seconds. When it came back on I had an airbag alarm and a stabilitrak alarm. I backed into the spot without issue. As far as I could tell the drive-train was fine. I have the convenience package which is basically the backup camera, Bluetooth, and On-Star. Anyone else come across this issue or anything similar?
  3. Hey guys this is my first time posting on the forums, recently bought a 2003 gmc 2500 6.0 gas. 4x4 So last owner got stuck in his driveway and had bypassed the mechanism by breaking the tumbler & started the truck via the ignition switch (already checked if it was stolen lol). i think he played with a few wires to bypass the security as well, but im not to sure on wiring. So to the point i had to drill out the old cylinder and play with it cause it was jammed and could not set it to the ignition setting to pull the old one, during this process i noticed a cable came loose that connects to the cylinder housing and would move with the key when you go from power to start it, pulled it out by accident & then truck was locked in the park position after i put the cable back i was able to shift but noticed it shifting freely afterwards. Already put a new tumbler in but still can shift with no brake, even with the truck off. I can still pull that cable out and the truck will lock into park but when i put it back it shifts free again. I just took the truck in for an out of province inspection(canada), and that was not an issue at the time so im 95% sure i did something to cause this. but could also have not noticed it as its second nature to put your foot on the brake then shift. but doubt it as it was just inspected yesterday Any help is appreciated and i can also post pictures when i make it out to the shop. Thanks!! ( Just remembered as well, disconnected the battery prior to working on the tumbler. because i was checking horn wires under the airbag, as the horn does not work not sure if disconnecting&reconnecting the battery can affect shifting in anyway)
  4. Good day, I have a 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 4x4 SLT. Latley I have had an issues with the shifting. Most of the time all is good, but when I'm going between 35 and 40 and let off the gas then give it some gas it hits real hard. It does the some what of the same when I am on the highway going about 70 and I give it more gas. On the highway it seems to down shift ( feels like I'm stopping) than shifts hard. The transmission was just rebuilt and I just replaced the tps and cleaned the throttle body. I at a loss and am running out of money to throw at it. The transmission shop ensures me it is not the shift soleniods, he says if it was I would have a lot more shifting issues than I currently have. Also, the check engine light does not come on and there are no codes in the history. Any help would be appreciated
  5. So I am currently on vacation 300 miles from home. My truck is a 16 1500 Z71 and has about 33000 miles on it and all of the sudden driving on a flat surface grade braking will enable. The truck is also shifting randomly and violently. Sometimes when making turns in auto mode it will feel as though the 4wd system is engaged. Anyone else encounter these issues? Anyone might know what could wrong that I can fix real quick while I'm away?
  6. I recently inherited a 2002 Silverado 1500 Standard cab 4.8L 4x4 manual NV3500 transmission. It has 208k miles on it. My oldest son is 14 and we plan to restore it so he'll have something to drive when he gets his license. It drives very nicely. There's some slop in the front end and I expect it's due a pitman and idler arm, ball joints, and probably tie rod ends. Aside from that, the only thing that concerns me is shifting from 2nd to 3rd. It's really hard to find 3rd gear, and when I do it takes a little force to get it in there. Downshifting from 4th to 3rd is smooth. Any ideas as to the cause and fix?
  7. So I tried to drive in the manual mode, with the 1,2,3 gears after the Drive position, and once I got up to around 25mph, it shifted by itself (I’m guessing to 2nd gear) but I didn’t even shift my shifting column to 2nd, and it still showed the truck being on 1st gear on the cluster, can someone help, I have 2005 Silverado LS crew cab 5.3L
  8. I have a 99 gmc 2500. It’s shiftig very hard and the speedometer will stop working. It doesn’t do it every time I drive it and it doesn’t do it the whole time I drive it.. it’s just on and off. The check engine light is NOT on. Please help! Also has a new alternator and battery.
  9. Hey Guys, I have had my 2015 Sierra for a year and a half now and I cannot stand how the truck shifts through the gears. I have been researching the forums for different fixes or something to help make the truck drive smoother. Long story short, I find that the Range AFM v4 disabler is the best solution available that avoids voiding my warranty. I do not use my truck as my primary vehicle and only put about 7,000 miles on it a year, so I do not want to void my warranty far before it expires considering all the quirks, Direct injection, and other things the warranty could save me $thousands if something breaks. I find that the truck drives around town much smoother without it going in and out of v4/v8 modes and the trans does a much better job managing city driving. So what is the major downfall of the Range AFM Disabler? It drains the battery, especially for someone like me who only drives on weekends. Between Christmas and New Years I had the time to figure something out. In our truck one of the pins in our OBD2 connector provide a constant 12v, which the RangeAFM uses for power. I came up with a relay design that only provides power to this obd2 pin only when the ignition is on, theoretically preventing the RangeAFM from draining my battery when the truck sits. ***Please beware this is a mod I decided to do to my truck and so far I have not had an issues. Modifying your own truck is your responsibility, not mine.*** Some Key points about the mod: 1. Provides the same power source as always, but only allows the OBD2 pin to access the power source when ignition is on. 2. I have an optional switch that will provide the original constant power to that pin in the OBD2 plug. The reason I did this is because I have dealer oil changes and I want everything to operate as the truck is designed to when they connect to my OBD2 port. The switch bypasses the relay control, therefore allowing factory operation. Before my dealer visits, I removed the RangeAFM, and flip the switch. You can place your switch anywhere, mine is hidden. 3. When cutting the wire from pin 16, I soldered and heat shrink my connections, and wrap it back up with the same fabric tape GM uses. The reliability of this mod depends on your ability and skills. 4. Not that this is a big deal, but when I get my GMC email/report every month it does not show there are issues since the RangeAFM is off while the truck is sitting. Thanks again to everyone on the forms for your input that led me to this decision. When my warranty is up I cannot wait to program/tune the truck, but for now I am happy with these results.
  10. I have a '99 GMC Sierra (old style) 4x4 that is having shifting issues in regular drive. The truck has 220,000 miles and the transmission is original. They seem like electrical issues is why I hesitate to just go with a rebuilt transmission. Here is what is happening: At times the transmission does not seem like it wants to go through the gears. It is not too noticeable until about 45 MPH, then it is obvious the gear is too low and the rpm's climb to about 3,000 (2,000 is more normal when cruising). It has never self-corrected and "kicked-in" but I have noticed that if I stop, shut it off and restart it, then it might work fine. I sometimes have to do this 2-3 times, however. Suddenly working after a restart seems like an electrical issue, but a solenoid was replaced (twice, on the possibility it was defective) but the problem keeps coming back and is becoming more frequent. Do I need a new transmission, or is there another issue going on?
  11. Hi, I have a 2006 GMC Sierra SLT 1500 with a 4165e transmission. I replaced the motor this past weekend, myself, with a crate motor purchased at my local GM dealership. (Piston 7 connecting rod exploded). So all I did was unbolt the old motor and re-bolt the new motor to the transmission. I used the GM torque-spec on all 3 of the Flex Plate bolts to the torque converter. Shouldn’t be any issues, right? Wrong. I don't have any issues in 1st gear or in second. But when the transmission shifts from 2nd to third.. The engine will rpm thru the roof and will not grab 3rd until I let my foot off of the gas and the motor’s rpm drops to about 2000 rpm. I will say that when I initially added the flex plat-to-torque converter bolts.. The first two were tightened down to spec but then the third wouldn't even start. So, I had to loosen the other 2 bolts to start the third (learning curve). Then I was able to tighten them all down to spec. Could this have damaged the torque converter? I also didn't add any transmission fluid to the torque converter when mating it to the new motor. I was told it wasn't necessary since I didn't lose any transmission fluid when I took out the old motor. It also smells like I’m burning a clutch even though its an automatic. When I pull the dipstick and smell it, it smells like a clutch. Could I possibly have a bad transmission that just so happens to have gone out as the same exact time as the engine? Could I have missed a step in the installation process? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
  12. I have a 2012 1500 5.3l Silverado. It has a 3" lift. I am not quite happy with the throttle response or the excessive shifting on the highway. I heard that a Tuner could help control or fix some of that. I have looked a few up online but I have no experience in them to know what ones are good, what ones I should be looking at for my type of application, and how to even program them for what I need to fix. Does anyone here have a tuner they currently use and what have you been able to do with it? Recommendations? Thank you
  13. A few weeks ago, I noticed it was acting sluggish. Shortly thereafter, I lost all acceleration in drive. I pulled over, tried R, still with no acceleration. The vehicle also wouldn't go into park. It seemed to be stuck in neutral. My husband was able to get it moving in 4WD. Took to mechanic, no codes thrown, no issues found, began working in 2WD again, was told to keep driving it. It "clunks" when shifting between P/R/N/D in 2WD. Yesterday, the Yukon switched to Auto 4WD. I switched it back to 2WD. It took 5 miles, but I experienced the same problem. This time I was unable to completely turn off the ignition. I could switch it back one click to battery, but not remove the key. To get it running, I had to - Switch to N - Turn on car - Switch to D - Switch to 4WD When I switched to 4WD, the truck lurched like it had been rear ended (not a fun experience). I was able to limp it home - it didn't want to accelerate or make turns. My mechanic isn't really sure what the issue is, and I'm not up for the "replace parts until it works" game. Any ideas?
  14. Hi everyone, I am just now starting to have an issue with the truck shifting hard from park to reverse to drive etc, at times it will just come right out of it and shift like a dream but most of the time it goes hard, anyone else ever have this problem? How did you fix it? How would you fix it? My truck is a 2011 Sierra with 5.3l 6spd, I have 93000 km and 3600 hours on it lots of shifting as I use this truck to read meters, so lots of stops.Thanks in advance.
  15. Ok so just within a week 2 of our 4 work vans down for transmission problems great luck huh. So just to name a few problems with this van for about 6 months now I have been able to pull the key out of the ignition while running not sure if thats related to any electrical problems its been having as well. So last week on the way home it all the sudden started revving high before it shifted into 3rd then went back to 2nd and now it wont shift any higher than second, the reason im thinking its an electrical problem is the speedometer drops to zero during this and then comes back when I reach 35 mph and the battery light comes and goes constantly. Its thrown a few codes so I got them checked as well as the battery and alternator, replaced the battery and still does the same, they said the alternator is still good. The codes that came up were "Generator "F" terminal circuit fault", "2-3 shift solenoid valve performance", and "Fuel Injector circuit condition". Any Ideas? if somethings shorting what could it be? Thanks
  16. I have a 2004 GMC Savana 2500. This morning I noticed when driving it, it would shift really lightly into the next gear, like you would almost not even notice, different then normal though. After I parked for a bit I started the van back up and put into Reverse and nothing, so I tried Drive, and everything else nothing unless I rev it up I can see it move about an inch or two. Any Ideas, I just want to rule out everything before I take it in. Checked the trans oil OK and also that Park Neutral Position Switch on the side and the cable moves the arm on it. I drive this van everyday for work and if the transmission was going out wouldnt I notice any slippage or anything before, it was running great yesterday? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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