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Showing results for tags 'odometer'.
Found 9 results
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First time posting but have searched the forums for years and have always found what I needed. Well this time I'm stumped, so I have a 1994 gmc k1500 pickup with a rebuilt 350 tbi bored .030 out with a stage 2 cam and long tube headers. (About 4000 miles on engine.) new distributor, plugs, wires, vss, So here's what's going on, the speedometer jumps around super erratically but when I turn the heater on it seems to change how much the speedo jumps around. If its on high it jumps around the least. Low or off its just bouncing off 85mph like bouncing to the point I can hear it slamming into whatever stops the needle from going any further. When I turn the turn signal on left it makes the radio light dim with each flash. The odometer turns constantly when while sitting in park. I have replaced the vss at the very end of the trans where the rear drive shift meets. I was drive the other day and the truck just didn't want to move seemed like it was just constantly back firing or misfiring. I have been trying to check all the engine grounds but not sure what all needs to be grounded. Any info/advice would be greatly appreciated. -
I recently just added a 6 in lift kit and 35 in tires. I was wondering if the dealer could recalibrate the spedometer so I don't have to use an after market tuner and ruin the warranty I payed extra for on the computers. I know how to calculate what speed i'm going just not how off the odometer is going to be. Those are the two questions I am concerned with and as always all replies are greatly appreciated. -
61872730218__99E50898-03B8-416E-B2E1-D303018DE498.MOV Hello All, I have a 2001 Chevy 1500hd that won’t turn over/start with other electrical issues as well. History: -went to start truck after not using it for a few days and the battery was dead - Boosted it with a booster pack, it started and ran for 1 second and then quit. - charged battery from an other vehicle and won’t even turn over. The dash only has volt meter, and backlighting working. Since then I have triple charged the battery. When you turn the key to the on position the lights come on, the radio works, voltmeter works, check engine light comes on and transfer case indication works. There is no PRND321, odometer, batt light, airbag, seatbelt etc.... when you push and hold the odometer reset button all the normal lights do come on. if you try start. You can here a faint relay click. if I energize the 10 amp crank fuse on the side of the dash the truck starts and continues to run. i have checked fuses, start relay, and battery post connections any ideas?
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2018 Silverado 3500 theft recovery have no instrument cluster how do I know what cluster to buy and will the mileage stay original or those it stay with instrument cluster -
Hi, after removing battery for charging, the odometer changed from kilometers to miles, and resets to 0. Start counting, but stopped at 16 miles. Anyone? Mu DIC also doesn't work, I have buttons on the steering wheel. It started with a bad IPC, bought a used one, moved the eeprom from the bad to the new, correct kilometers showed up, but then the battery became empty after a few days, removed it for charging. Kjetil
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Hypertech speedometer calibrator for GM trucks 2006 to current. This will recalibrate the computer settings for those who have larger than stock tires, it will also recalibrate the truck for any change in rear end gear ratio. Buyer is responsible for verifying compatibility with their vehicle. Price is $200 or best reasonable offer.
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Noticed my odometer will hit 10,000 miles this week, so figured I'd begin the inevitable odometer topic. The K2's have been available for almost 9 months now... So how many miles are on your odometer? (feel free to also include your purchase date)
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Okay, so this represents a ton of firsts for me: First time posting in a forum, first time owning a truck (or any vehicle for that matter), and the first time working on a vehicle, so I humbly ask for your patience and thank you in advance. Please understand that my knowledge of vehicle mechanics is fairly limited, but I do a little better with electronics. I recently purchased a 1989 GMC 2500 for relatively cheap, and was assured that it was very mechanically sound, which it is, I think. I didn't realize that there were a lot of non-mechanical issues with it, even through a test drive. One such issue is with the speedometer. Usually, when it is colder outside, or I am making the first trip of the day, the speedometer works perfect. After that, though, the speedometer doesn't work, and I have to use the GPS on my phone. I have no idea where to start, other than pulling the dash apart, but then I will just get a stupid look on my face and not know what the crap is what. I did check all the fuses, and only one was blown, but more on that later. Another issue is with the odometer. It claims just under 104k on it, which is amazing, until you realize that it is horribly inaccurate. Whenever the speedometer is not working, the odometer is not turning, so I assume that they are linked somehow. However, when the speedometer is working, only the tenth of a mile wheel spins, and nothing clicks over. Both of these can wait, however, until after I get the safety inspection done that is required yearly by the great state of Utah. Other issues are a little more pressing, such as... Headlamps. How do I properly aim them? I did buy a Haynes repair manual from O'Riley Auto Parts, but it wasn't as specific as I would like. It listed two different kinds of headlights, and explained how to aim them, but what is on my truck looks like what both were described as. Another pressing issue is the tail lights. When the head lights are on, there is supposed to be a dim light in the tail lights, right? On the right side tail light, there is. On the left side, there isn't. On top of that, neither of the back up lights nor the license plate lights work. In addition to all this, the hazard lights don't work. Of course, it would help to check the hazard lights if I knew where the button to turn them on and off was located. Now to the blown fuse. This one boggles me. The fuse was for the park lights, also required by law. It is a 25 amp fuse, which is easy enough to replace. However, when I replace it, no matter any thing else in the vehicle, the park lights come on, along with the head lights, and there is nothing I can do to turn them off except for removing the fuse. The park lights come on without the button even being used. I know that this seems like a lot of questions to ask all in one post, and I'm sure that they are covered individually somewhere on the internet, but I really don't know if any of these problems are causing other problems to happen. I really need this truck to pass inspection, and I would really like to do the work myself, as I did get the truck so that I could learn this kind of stuff. And in case you are wondering how in the world did the previous owner get it to pass inspection, he had it registered in a county that doesn't require safety and emission checks. I really wish that I could do that, but I don't have a relative living in one of those counties. Anyway, I do appreciate any and all help that y'all can give. Like I said, I know very little about auto mechanics, but I am trying to learn. Thank you again.
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First I'd like to say this is my first post, and thanks for all the great information here and sorry for the novel. I just purchased a 2003 Sub 2500 2wd 8.1L 4.10 rear ~132k miles with stock rims and tires (245/75/16) from a used car dealer, so I have no history info other than carfax. On my first test drive I noticed a very pronounced shift into each gear. It would hold a few hundred RPM more than I thought it should and when it shifted it was VERY firm. It was consistent and never any slipping, just firm. It made me think someone had an aftermarket tune with aggressive shift points/pressures. The dealer offered to have the local Chevy dealer check out the vehicle and they said there was no evidence of a tune but they did flash with the newest program. After the new program the truck shifted like a stock vehicle so I picked it up. While driving on the highway I had the cruise set at 78 mph, my normal cruising speed. I noticed that I was catching far more vehicles than normal, I downloaded a speedometer app on my phone and this verified that the speedo was off by 10%, if speedo says 70 I'm going 77. I have verified I have the 4.10 by checking RPM vs Speed and all checks out. Where does the speedometer calibration logic reside? PCM or BCM? When they loaded the new program did they only load one of those modules and not the other? With everything stock and presumably stock code I'm confused as to why my speed and mileage are off. If any of our wonderful techs on the site are in my area I wouldn't mind driving 30 miles or so to see you instead of my local dealership. I am in Murfreesboro TN. Again thanks for any help you can give. Jason
