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MotoMedic

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Everything posted by MotoMedic

  1. MotoMedic
    If I did again, I'd try to find the black switches with the single red LED dot at top to indicate on. Mine are a little too much red plastic when compared against the dash.
  2. MotoMedic
  3. MotoMedic
    Sounds like they hooked up the HIDs with a Relay Wiring Harness but did not use Capacitors. Let them know in order for HIDs to work correctly in a new Sierra you need both installed. If you look in post #1 there are wiring diagrams.. print out and show them. Capacitors have several alternate names such as error code eliminators, CAN-Bus, etc...but they're all the same thing.
  4. MotoMedic
    So far, no member has reported doing the Sierra's themselves, but the pro guy mentioned which kit he thought would go in the easiest. There's another topic on here about opening the lights with an oven (vs cutting) if you're interested in being the first to try the DIY retrofit at home. What's the worst that could happen..? ha
  5. MotoMedic
    ChrisNJ- go back and read this entire topic. Both Silverado & Sierra headlight projector swaps have been discussed/explained.
  6. MotoMedic
    ChrisNJ - your projectors are working correctly, as intended. Only thing you can do is adjust the aim. The shutters are not adjustable but projectors are.. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158300-aiming-adjusting-headlights/
  7. MotoMedic
    That's crazy! PM sent
  8. MotoMedic
    No biggie. They go by so many names, depending on vendor, so they're easily mixed up.
  9. MotoMedic
    CAN-Bus = capacitor = error canceler/eliminator T.scheich - just sent you a message
  10. MotoMedic
    The projectors definitely aren't the best quality but yours are functioning as intended by GM. High beams only allow existing light blocked by shutter to now escape (only change is light now allowed above cutoff). You can aim/adjust the projectors: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158300-aiming-adjusting-headlights/
  11. MotoMedic
    If you don't want to do behind the grille or in the bumper gap (like mine), they make license plate mounts: http://www.visionxusa.com/Accessories-License_Plate_Mounts/c14_131/index.html http://www.rigidindustries.com/mounting-options/40016
  12. MotoMedic
    So everything's working correctly now? I wonder why most 2014's have to reverse the single input for the lights to function but a few out there don't. My guess is perhaps there are slight differences in each batch of relay harnesses / capacitors. I know one member actually found his cap had the connector reversed by the manf.. perhaps they mixed up the internal connections on yours. Just one of those things we'll probably never know! ha
  13. MotoMedic
    I see your point, but for most, it's likely easier just to connect directly to battery with harness. And since the harness contains its own fuse about 6" from battery, no short circuit issues. I'd hate to recommend to the inexperienced to connect to bus/fuse panels and then they somehow really screw their electrical systems. Just my $0.02
  14. MotoMedic
    Without the relay, the power isn't always a constant 12v, so the ballasts will sometimes flicker on/off.
  15. MotoMedic
    You installed a single capacitor between stock output & harness, correct? Sounds like the CAN-Bus might be bad.. like it's not allowing any of the signal to pass through it. Use a meter & check the wire between CAN-Bus and Relay to verify.
  16. MotoMedic
    1) Are you 100% sure you followed the wiring diagram in post #1? 2) Did you make sure there was a fuse in the fuse holder? Sounds dumb but first thing to check. 3) Dd you flip/reverse the the single stock output before it went into the capacitor, which then connects to relay input?
  17. MotoMedic
    Alignment topic: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158896-2014-alignment-specs/ **not sure if 4x2 is different than 4x4.
  18. MotoMedic
    You're missing a relay wiring harness. See diagram attached to post #1 of this topic.
  19. MotoMedic
    No, not at all. 9011 halogen bulbs discussed here: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/156233-halogen-led-headlight-bulb-upgrades/
  20. MotoMedic
    Wow, that's some serious over-kill. Never heard of an HID ballast drawing over 10 amps, even on startup. They must have got a great deal on 80's from supplier or they also use them for other projects.
  21. MotoMedic
    The tailgate sheet metal amplifies the sound. If it really bugs you, open it back up and put dynamat on the inside of exterior panel (bed liner should help with interior panel)
  22. MotoMedic
    CAN-Bus "Harness" = a simple pair of electrical capacitors / not really a wiring harness HD Harness = a standard wiring harness with relay / usually dual input
  23. MotoMedic
    Double check that you'll be getting the HD Harness and the CAN-Bus. In the link you posted, the drop down choices show HD Harness but further down it lists: WHAT'S INCLUDED Standard Equipment Includes the Following: Ballasts Morimoto 3Five or 5Five DSP Bulbs Morimoto H11, 9006, 9012 Wire Harness Morimoto Canbus Relay Hardware Ballast brackets Misc Alcohol bulb wipes, TRS Decal Warranty Five Years for 3Five kits, Three years for 5Five kits
  24. MotoMedic
    Technically, they're all the same "brightness" but the lower the color temp, the more light the human eye can utilize (your anatomy is the weak link, not the bulbs! ha). I didn't notice any difference from behind the wheel when I switched from 5000 to 4500K. If you're trying to match the Sierra LED strips, 4300-4500K is the way to go.
  25. MotoMedic
    Looks great!! - Total cost? - Any pics of just the halos on? - Did you also get optional colored LED strips? I thought from pics Phil had sent me that you did or maybe that was someone else's lights
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