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Found 17 results

  1. I'm going to need to have the torque converter on my 2013 Silverado 2500 6.0 replaced & would like to have a price range in mind of what it should cost all said & done when I go to the shop so I don't get ripped off. I know rates & such vary depending on location (I'm in NJ) but I'm just looking for a round about price for this specific truck, maybe from someone who's been there & done that.. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  2. Truck was shuttering a little, almost felt like it was slipping saturday driving in the city, highway fine. Sunday morning there's a whine from the front of the trans at idle. 5 mins down the road the trans/engine revs are jumping all over the place catching and slipping or shuddering till eventually something let go and it starts to coast with the engine reved up. No movement in any gear, engine revving fine, just no power being transmitted in fwd rev or low. Gets towed to the dealer sunday and monday they say its moving fine at least in the lot, they haven't looked into it further yet. Any ideas on what would cause this? It wouldn't even try to move and the next day its moving fine. Also any TSBs with the torque converter or 6 speed trans that might be related? If it is the torque converter do they rebuild the trans as well or just try to flush the debris out? Fortunately its still under warranty (just) but, I like to be informed. Also don't want the trans to go 20k down the road when its out of warranty because it was contaminated. Truck has 145K KMs on it.
  3. Around 15K I had the transmission issue with it slipping and the dealership replaced the fluid with the mobile 1 which seem to resolve it enough that i could live with. The transmissions still clunks into first when down shifting but whatever. Well now at 30K I have something similar going on, but seems just slightly different. When I'm cruising around 35-40 it almost feels like the truck is braking or downshifting and then speeding up, but enough everyone in the truck can feel it. At first i was thinking it was the DFM kicking in and its opening and closing valves so i bought a pulsar box ( i needed it for tires and autostop/start as well) and disabled the dfm, but it still does this weird shimmy. I know that doesnt necessarily still mean its not dfm but... still. This may sound crazy, but its much worse when its really hot outside and the truck has been sitting for bit. This morning it was cloudy and about 80 degrees. Didn't notice it too bad when i left, but this afternoon it was about 95 (truck had been sitting in the sun for several hours) and when i went to leave even the passenger was thinking i was about to run out of gas once we leveled out around 40. After stopping and going a few times it settles down enough that its back to just being very subtle, but still noticeable. Is anyone else experiencing something similar? Is it DFM, Torque converter, transmission or just something i will have to trade out to resolve. I appreciate any answers that are offered up because i really, really don't want to get rid of this truck.
  4. Hi, I have a 1997 c1500 ext cab with the small block 350 and a 4L60e. I’m replacing my torque converter but I don’t know what the original stall on the converter is. Some people tell me it’s around 1400 and other people tell me it’s 1650. Does anyone know the stock stall number? And the bolt diameter too please.
  5. So I have heard that I should look into changing my torque converter or stall. Can someone help me better understand what that is and why I need to change it? Also, maybe some recommendations. They are telling me this because I just got the truck 2 weeks ago but hopefully by next month ill have Intake, Headers, E85 and a street tune. Can't justify a throttle body or intake manifold, change my mind? lol. But I am new to all of this and they are saying maybe a 3200 stall will be good? no clue. TIA!!! Also, can someone point me in the right direction for info on drive shafts and when I need one.
  6. Hey there! I am in dire need of help. I have been having the SAME issue with my truck for over half a year. My first problem started in January when I noticed my check engine light came on. After two days it went off on its own...then when I was driving on the interstate, my truck started to jerk and the RPM's would jump and just stay there for a while and the truck would not be going any faster, instead it was like breaks were being applied...when they were not. I took it in to the dealer ( Ive since read that that was a dumb idea..) they said that it was just my pedal position sensor (PPS) and they re-calibrated it... A week goes by and I noticed that my check engine lights came on and then went off within a day. On my way home on a flat part of the interstate, a grade break light came on to let me know it had started the assist...which was weird bc I was accelerating on the interstate. Then the RPM's did the same thing as before. I took it in a second time and they just replaced the PPS. This worked I think for less than a month. Then the SAME thing happens, Check engine comes on, Grade Break randomly comes on, RPM's jerk. Take it in for the 3rd time and they say its a wire... SO they replace a random wire...This fixes it for another week. THEN THE SAME THING HAPPENS AGAIN... FINALLLY they say its the torque converted and a pump and that it'll be 5K.... I had already spent over 1k ALREADY. I ended up taking it to a transmission shop because I can't play this game every time. I thought maybe they were just doing something wrong and misdiagnosed it a couple times... but then after a month of having my transmission fixed the check engine light went back on. This time I had time to take it the same day to autozone to get the codes read. It threw out the code P057C three times...this apparently has something to do with the PPS. I took it back to the dealer since they said they would fix it for free if it was the part they previously fixed. The dealership said that the PPS was shot and they had to put in another new one but that they didn't know why it went bad. A week goes by and my grade breaks came on again today randomly and the RPMS are starting to jump again. Has anyone had this problem or head of anyone having this problem?? Thank you in advance!
  7. Patient - 2019 1500 LD, 5.3, 6 sp, 7200 miles old, Covid-19 negative. Symptoms - 2-3 second shutter / shake / rumble, during light acceleration, 30-40 MPH and low RPM. Happens while both in V4 mode and while in v8 (manual w/ transmission set to L5). I thinks its the torque converter, but surfing the forum I see this issue mainly referenced to 2015+/- K2s and I'm not sure if they changed the trans in the final years. I'd appreciate either a TSB # or a link to another posting were I could find the TSB. I'd like to be able to take to my dealer and say "HERE....READ....FIX" (politely). Many thanks!
  8. Hello new to the forum, so giving it a try. First off I have a 03 Chevy Silverado 2500hd 4x4 with the 6.0L in it. Has 180000 miles on it. Been having a faint whinning noise under the front of it in the morning right at the torque converter, goes away when warms up, but also been having a hard shift when going into Passover gear, when in a hard pull or pulling trailer up hill.But only does it going into passover. On saying all this got to looking at trucks history on car fax found that Mr Transmission had replaced the torque converter. So called a buddy of mine who works at another transmission shop and told him everything and he said sounds like they used wrong torque converter for my truck. Said need check it, but have never got around to it, due to health issues. Just been not pulling with it and not running it hard.Well went on for a year now and when got in my truck last week drove 30 miles that day came home parked it. Went back out that night go to town and started it made a loud clank sound (like a gear or chain breaking) from under truck right in same spot where been hearing whinning noise. Sounded like metal on metal grinding after that. I turned it straight off was ran for no more then 2 mins. When try start it again the lights just dimmed. So thought starter, to cold, it raining fix it tomorrow.Well next morning same thing. Took starter off tested good. Came back home hooked chain to truck pulled up hill. Started looking over everything, put bar on crank and nothing wouldn't move motor locked up. Never had problem with truck oil pressure or nothing, have always serviced it, just that whinning. Question is does it sound like locked up motor or can the torque converter be locked up keeping it from turning? Any help or advise would be great.
  9. Hello all! First post here! What brought me here was the 8l90 torque converter lockup shudder issue. Most times I'd just take this truck to the dealer and let them sort it out, but as it's out of warranty, this is not something I'd like to pay >$600 to repair (this price was quoted to me for the flush and filter change). After talking to a few service advisors I've found that each of them planned on using a different solution to attempt to alleviate the shudder. The first was going to proceed via one of the bulletins and do a triple fluid swap and filter change, the others were just going to do a standard flush and fluid swap. I plan on owning this vehicle for another few months until the 19's become a little more negotiable but cannot stand to let this shudder go on that long and am a bit worried about destroying the torque converter in the process and washing a whole bunch of parts down into the transmission. So.... my question is if anyone has performed this fluid swap themselves, if it alleviated the issue, and if the filter change is necessary? I saw that many of the Corvette guys were swapping to the Mobil 1 fluid with some success, however, I didn't think this was as much of a fluid performance issue as it was a suspended clutch material / dirty fluid issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!
  10. I have a 2009 gmc sierra 1500 5.3l 4x4 with 54 thousand miles and recently it seems and feels like I've been having transmission and or torque converter problems. When I'm almost to a complete stop it feels like something just locks up and I can even let my foot off the brake pedal and not go anywhere until I press the gas pedal and start kinda moving, then it feels like something releases. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
  11. IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WITH A HIGH MILIAGE GMC CANYON 8 SPEED - HOW MANY MILES? Or Colorado of corse. I had to have the torque converter replaced. It seems to be doing fine now but only 17,000 mi. on it and only 2,000 of those with the new torque converter. heard of several starting to shudder again after a while. I'm trying to figure out if this truck is worth keeping or I should get rid of it while its newer and worth more money? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance for your response.
  12. Hi all, Pseduo newbie here. Not new to mechanics or even GM trucks, just new to the GMT900 platform. Hoping you guys could help me out. I've searched google and this forum looking for answers, but have not been able to find anything similar to what I'm experiencing. Please forgive me if I missed an obvious thread. I'm not entirely sure what I need to be searching for. Was hoping you guys could steer me. We bought a low miles (71K) 2009 Silverado from a dealer recently, and it started having transmission issues within 1,000 miles. It came with a dealer-provided lifetime power-train warranty, but so far, the experience with the dealer defines the very essence of poor experience. They basically drive it a couple miles, not even far enough to get it warmed up, and then spit out the trusty old "could not replicate". So, I'm looking for a direction to point them, or maybe even a TSB? 2009 Silverado 1500 CCSB Z71, LC9/6L80E. Factory tow package. What is happening is this: When the transmission has warmed up, and you're going generally over 50mph, but sometimes slower, when coming to a stop the truck will surge and try to pull for a brief moment. And sometimes it will do this 2-3 times in rapid succession. It isn't really that the engine is surging, it feels more like the torque converter is locking/ unlocking rapidly. But, it will pull, even with you off the gas, and holding the brake. And if you watch the tachometer, it seems to synchronize with the downshifts the transmission makes as you're slowing. In a few cases, it has taken up all the drivetrain slack pretty suddenly and led to some fairly audible clunking/jerking. I should note, this transmission also has the very hard 2-3 shift, but, again, the dealer "can no replicate", at least not on their dime. Now, I saw some reference on a Pontiac forum, under the 6l80E in the G8, reference a software update released for 2009 trucks, but could not find anything about it anywhere else. I asked the dealer to check for software updates, but was told there was none. Has anyone had a similar experience with the TC locking/unlocking? Thanks in advance.
  13. Okay, so I've searched as best I could and didn't come across a topic on this. Apologies if I missed something. My '14 Silverado 5.3 has 28,000 miles on it now (got it at 26,000) and since then there has been a strange humming or whining noise coming from what I deduce must be the torque converter. It can be heard in park when revving and in drive under acceleration or just cruising a parking lot, most noticeably in the lower RPM range in all cases. I wish I had noticed this at the dealership, but I was not paying attention. The noise is worse at times, but always present. This is clearly an issue, I mean the thing sounds like a 15 year old Trailblazer whining around a parking lot and that's pretty unacceptable for such a new vehicle. I only plan on keeping this truck for a year or so and stepping up to a '16 or '17 Silverado/Sierra when finances allow (see my novel of a intro in the new member forums...), but its still a nice truck and I want it to act and sound like it should. Has anyone else had TC or Trans issues on their 6 speed trucks? Is the dealer going to give me the "normal operating conditions" line of bs? Thanks y'all. -Max
  14. I have a 2009 Chevy Tahoe, 93,000 miles. Have had issues with the cd player not shutting off, cd getting stuck, etc. Happens so seldom I didn't really worry about it. Left home with a squeal in my brakes, husband said may be a twig, just keep an eye (ear) on it. Drove 500 miles for work, squealed only when starting out. Five weeks later, ready to head home, thought I would get my brakes checked. Squeal wasn't any worse, brakes weren't spongy, no apparent problem, but wanted them checked. At this time, 'something' wasn't quite right. Took it to a recommended tire/brake shop, they brought me back to my motel and stated brakes didn't feel like anything was wrong but they would check. Well......back brakes were metal on metal, front pads had probably 4-6 months left. Needed to replace rotors and pads on back, told them to replace pads on the front as well. When they picked me up so I could retrieve my car, the repairman advised that when he started my car, a CD ejected from the player, he didn't touch anything(I didn't know one was in there!) Got my car back, the next day, RPM's went to over 3 on highway, started shutting down. Called tire shop, they did nothing to cause it. Sat on the side of the highway for a few minutes, started it back up, drove back to my room with no problem. The next morning, went to start my car, dead battery. Got a jump, no problems but suspected my CD player was again acting up. The following evening, went to start my car, dead battery. Called AAA for a jump, then looked up and took out fuse to 'audio'. That solved my problem with killing my battery, but it also stopped ALL audio-radio, blinkers, door open, etc---I thought I could deal with it, I wanted to get home. Loaded my car to depart-something still not right but didn't know what. Called my husband, he advised to take it to an electric shop and get it taken care of before I got on the road. I knew he was right, but sure didn't want to. Called the tire/brake shop for recommendations of good shop and took it there. They said my player was pulling too many amps, it needs replaced, but that was the least of my worries. He said the computer codes read that I had no 1st and 4th gears, I have major problems with my transmission. Asked if I could drive it 500 miles home, owner of the shop said 'maybe'. Asked for recommended transmission shop, From the time I dropped my car off at the electrical shop, they took me back to my room--4 miles away, they went back to the shop, then back to pick me up, my car went from 'something isn't quite right' to 'what the hell did you do to my car'.........it was barely engaging in to gear. There was no way for me to drive it home. According to the electric mechanic, when the transmission starts to go, it goes fast. He was putting it in 'D' to 'M' until it 'engaged', when it 'engaged', it jumped really bad. Took it to a small transmission shop, they drove it and stated they suspected the torque converter 'fell apart', clogged my transmission filter cutting off fluid, and burnt up my transmission. ?????????? Called the dealer, and of course my warranty expired in Sept 2014. Cost of a rebuilt transmission $2950, rebuilt in-house, estimated time--at least 3 days. Three days later(Friday), got a call saying it wasn't going back together 'as easily' as they had thought it would, would probably be Monday. Told them not to rush through, I wanted it done right. No word yet, its Monday 2 pm. Did ask about a warranty, will warranty up to cost of rebuilding, haven't gotten all the details on that yet, but they did say I would not have to bring it back up here. Now I am lost. What caused the torque converter to go? Asked and was told it was 'nothing I did'. Well that makes me feel better ..... I wish I loved my car, but the truth is, I hate the light gray interior, keep it covered. Maybe if I loved it, putting all this money into it wouldn't make me so darn mad. I find it hard to believe that a $38k car, a little over 6 years old, 93K miles has all these issues!! I wont even get started with the fact that within the first year of having the car I was on the highway, check engine light came on, was driving to an auto shop to have it checked and the entire car shut down on me in the middle of the highway!!! Dealer changed out the alternator and battery...or the 3 other times my engine shut 1/2 down on the highway, max speed 35 mph---two of the times it 'thought' the oxygen wasn't right in my gas(sensor had to be changed out.....sensor had to be reset). What a joke this is turning out to be! An expensive joke! Anyone else having issues like this??
  15. Hi guys, I am new to this forum as well as Suburban ownership. I recently purchased a 1997 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 LS with the 5.7L 350 and the 4l60e automatic trans. It is time to replace the torque converter and I had a question, originally I was just going to go with a stock replacement, but as I started looking around I started to consider going with a torque converter with a slightly higher stall. I was looking at the Hughes Performance GM22LTOW, but can’t justify the price. I recently saw a forum discussing putting a stock S10 torque converter in place of the factory spec original, my question is will that work. I found an S10 Pro-King converter and it seems to have very similar specs to the one actually made for my Suburban, except it has a higher stall (I will include the link to both the S10 spec converter and the one for my Suburban). Will this converter work and if so will it be as reliable? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. For the Suburban Pro-King Automatic Transmission Remanufactured Torque Converter GM33CW: Upgrade with the best Transmission Torque Converter at Advance Auto Parts For the S10 Pro-King Automatic Transmission Remanufactured Torque Converter GM35CW: You
  16. I have a 2014 Silverado 6.2. Max Trailer package. I recently took it in for scheduled recall. It has about 10,500 miles. I could tell they did something with the TC, grade braking and also the adjustable pedal settings. My truck started to act strange with idle fluttering and it feels like the TC is jumping in and out, like it's trying to decide whether to lock or unlock. It does this at speeds below 50 MPH. I am wondering if anyone else has had this issue and how they were able to fix it? I talked to another owner that had this issue and he took it in multiple times to have the dealer find nothing... He finally tuned it; modifying the TC adapt settings. I am very hesitant to void my warranty considering the issues with new new style.
  17. Im looking for some help weather some thinks I have a tourque converter issue or u joint issue. It idols smooth. When i rev it up it vibrates. its at its worst about 80kms or 50mph. its an easy fix to replace u joints. Changed the ballancer on the front to no success. Let me know your thoughts.
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