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Found 10 results

  1. I recently bought a great used 2007 Silverado 5.3 2wd with only 78k miles. I seen the carfax that the trans fluid was changed at 15k. So I decided to flush the system. But now I’m nervous that it might’ve been a bad decision and I might have done more damage in the long run. The flush didn’t include a new filter either so I might have it changed. Anyone think it’s going to deteriorate sooner or later?
  2. I was at the dealer the other day getting a tire replaced and I noticed I needed a coolant flush as its been 5 years and no previous one. When I got home I checked the reservoir and it was grossly overfilled. I doubt there's room for 7oz of expansion in it. I know sometimes this happens because it needs to burp out some air so I've driven it a couple of times but it hasn't gone down yet. I've got one of these coming tomorrow to suck the excess out if it hasn't gone down tomorrow but wondering if anyone knows about burping these or how to remove air. There doesn't appear to be a radiator cap which is likely why the reserve tank is pressurized. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP8R9MS Since these are pressurized reservoirs, it seems that a grossly overfilled can cause damage as there's nowhere for the pressure to go except the weakest link which is likely a hose or fitting. My question is do these heater cores have a valve or is coolant running to them constantly? It is dead summer and I want to avoid heat on full to see if it clears out if I can. Also judging by design, it seems like it would naturally burp itself fairly quickly. Before the flush my needle almost always stayed constant at 210 when warmed up, now it seems to fluctuate between the 197.5 mark and 210 which leads me to think either there's still air in there or the overfill is causing excessive pressure that is altering the temp.
  3. So I'll make this topic as detailed and informative as I possibly can because I'm running out of options here. Video of the issue is included. I did a coolant and radiator flush on my '03 Sierra 5.3 to change the coolant from green ACDelco to orange Prestone. All the old coolant was flushed out of the engine and in with the new. The radiator was bled properly. After driving around for a while, I noticed my temp gauge starting to rise just above midway on the highway, and I can hear the fans kicking on high (did an electric fans swap). I didn't think much of it, but then it refused to cool down even though both the fans and the outside air are blasting through the radiator, and I know that the radiator is clean because there was no corrosion on the inside or outer debris blocking the airflow. I took it back to the shop, reflushed it, bought a new OEM thermostat, nothing helped. As a last resort, I did the following things to make sure everything is working correctly, and I'll mention some notes: *Thermostat has been replaced *Coolant was changed back to green 50/50 ACDelco, which faired a bit better than the orange Prestone. *Changed the temp sensor and its wiring *Bought a new fan harness from Nelson Performance because the old one got busted from how long the fans were running on high. *Radiator hoses were inspected, nothing is cracked or kinked. *Oil is not milky, nor getting smoke from the exhaust, and I'm not losing coolant, so no head gasket issues. *Car was running fine before the flush. *The car isn't drastically overheating, but there's no reason for the temperature to rise on or above midway when I'm cruising down the highway, and this will make the fans and the harness run harder. *This only happens after I push on the gas or the engine is underload such as cruising on the highway. *Sometimes when the car is idling, it takes awhile for the low fans to turn off, as in, it is cooling down slower than usual. The only two things that are left to suspect are the water pump (not leaking or making noise though), and that there is an air pocket trapped in the engine, and I'd appreciate if someone tells me how to check if there is one. If this behavior is normal, which I'm sure it isn't, please let me know. Here's the video. When the temp begins to rise I'm cruising around 55mph, and only cooled down when I came to a stop and slowly took off again. https://youtu.be/J5jeolKdtc8
  4. I did a coolant flush on my 5.3 '03 Sierra and changed the fluid from green to Prestone orange coolant. I had mild overheating issues prior to the flush, so I figured flushing the coolant and changing to orange Prestone might help (I did the same exact thing in my '04 GTO with LS1 and haven't had overheating issues since forever). Now the temp always goes above midway, and here's the thing... It does the same thing even on the HIGHWAY with fans on high speed, and it sometimes goes down in traffic only (basically when I'm not giving the engine any acceleration). I changed the coolant again with dexcool, and did an air bleed, changed the temp sensor and thermostat two months ago, and cannot see any leak from the pump but still nothing is helping. I'll note that the green coolant didn't look dirty when it I flushed it out, and that it only heats up when I'm accelerating.
  5. Good morning guys, Obviously I'm new to the forums, so thank you in advance for your understanding! A little background on my situation -- I always make sure to maintain my vehicle to the best of my ability (both proactively and within my financial budget), but my Chevy Silverado just hit it's 75,000 mile mark with no previous transmission fluid maintenance. 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 (Standard Work Vehicle) Pre-Certified with 3,008 miles on it, pretty much brand-new -- Purchased in Oct, 2013 4.3 Liters V6 Engine 75,600 miles currently The only thing it's ever towed is the smallest Uhaul for about 600/miles, and sod back in the day. For the past couple of years I've only driven it to and from work (50 miles round trip in city/highway), but for the most part this past year my new place of employment is super close, so that dwindled to around 25 miles round-trip. I've only ever replaced the engine oil and filter regularly, and tires a year ago, so when it comes to how I should maintenance the transmission oil, that's a bit foreign to me unfortunately. I've heard if you make it passed 70k with no issues, it's not wise to flush it out entirely, but more so the 50/50 (old/new) method? I would like some advice from you tenured vets on this, and to see if I should take it to the Chevy dealer or a transmission specialist? Thanks again!
  6. Hello all! A few months ago I purchased a 2006 Silverado 2500 with the 6.0 Vortec engine. My coolant is slightly discolored and there seems to be a little scale inside the tank. I would like to backflush the system, but I am not entirely sure how on this truck. My Chiltons manual says to remove the thermostat and reinstall the housing by itself, then hook up a garden hose to the radiator and backflush. 2 chapters later, the same manual says that the thermostat is part of the housing and cannot be removed! Any advice?
  7. Hi all, I am new here, but I just got done doing a transmission filter replacement on my 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 (4 speed auto). I watched some DIYs on youtube and looked at some forums, but they all said to drop the exhaust down and that was an issue for me. I didn't have a socket that worked on there, one was too deep, the other was too shallow, and they were a PITA to break loose, so I went another route without dropping it and it worked fine! On a side note, while I was down there I did the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids, too. They are easy, just drain and fill until it flows out. I used a $6 hand pump off amazon that screws right into 1qt bottles of fluid. You can use the same kind of hand pump to drain the transmission pan fluid once it drops to reduce the mess, but I just embraced it and let it spill out all over. Anyway, here is what I did... Tools: 10mm socket 13mm socket T40 torx bit 1. Remove the heat shield from the side of the transmission pan, it's just in the way. 2. Remove one torx bolt and loosen the other above the shift cable bracket. This allows you to slide it out of the way for extra clearance to the pan bolts and gives the needed clearance to get the pan out. Note that there is very little clearance here and all I could do was get a torx socket on there and use a 1/4" wrench for leverage, but it worked! 3. Remove the pan bolts. It is helpful to leave a couple in so you can control where all the fluid drains out. Drop one corner and let it drain out in as controlled of a manner as you can. It's messy, especially if your truck doesn't fit in the garage and it's a windy day like I had! 4. Remove the pan with a little wiggling, it should slide right out. Pop the old filter out and the new one in. 5. Clean it thoroughly and get the sludge off the magnets. It might be my imagination, but I think one side of the magnet stuck better, so just test it out when you put them back. 6. Put the new gasket on and feed the bolts in. You will have to leave the back row of bolts out in order to clear the part above the exhaust crossover under the pan. 7. Bolt it in and re-install the heat shield and shift cable bracket. I didn't get any torque specs, but they were really easy to remove, so I just tightened them down mechanically tight. 8. Fill with fluid, it took about 6qt initially, but I have to go for a good long drive yet to warm it up and check it again. Hope this helps, it's way easier than trying to get the dang exhaust system to drop down! I mean really, look at how they located these bolts, I'd need 3 different sockets, a swivel, and a couple crows foot wrenches to break and remove all that crap including the sensor, no thanks! If you have any suggestions let me know, peace!
  8. I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 4WD 5.3L V8 Z71 LT Midnight Edition (I'm sure you've seen them plenty by now) and I'm looking to lift it and put 35's on. I'm planning to go with the RC 6" lift and Toyo MT 35x12.5xR18. My main objective is to be able to mount fender flares which I believe extrude 2" from standard and I would like my tires to be nearly flush if not a slight amount outward. So I'm having trouble figuring out the numbers to predict the tires being flush with the flares. I know the RC lift brings them out 1.5" (assuming I get 1.5" spacer in rear as well). So with this tread, and offset from the lift, would I need offset wheels in your opinion to become flush? Also, please critique this lift if you think something is wrong or would be better. Thanks, Ser Menalak
  9. Should I flush my engine what should I use thinking about sea foam gonna flush before I pull pan to replace pickup tube oring also should I replace my oil pump with on this task I pretty much know what I'm gonna do but and notes from the fellas that have gone through this will be much appreciated
  10. I have a Silverado 2500 6L WT. I put some green antifreeze in the reservoir and found out that it is bad to mix the green antifreeze with dexcool and thus needed to flush my coolant. I then did a coolant flush with only dexcool to get the green antifreeze out of my truck. All I did was drain the dexcool from the radiator hose, refilled the reservoir with water, ran the water through the engine, and then drained the dexcool from the radiator hose again. All in all, I drained the dexcool from the radiator hose three times (three intervals of flushing water through the engine). I DID NOT remove the drain plug to remove the dexcool from the bottom of the engine block. Did I get all of the green antifreeze out without removing the drain plug or do I need to do another coolant flush?
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