Dresari702

Well, rats....LOL. I figured it was a long shot, but worth asking. Thanks!!!

Does anyone know, or tried to fit the GM accessories bedside box (2021-2022 trucks) into a 2018, 6.6 ft bed? It is GM p/n 84705351. Pick is from the GMAC website from a T1 truck.

Awesome.....thank you !!

Anyone have experience with how well Plastidip'ed emblems/badges hold up to, say, car washes (pressure washers) etc...??

Have a Picture? Might give people a better idea of what type of look you're going for. Sounds like you've already done quite a bit. Throw in some aftermarket seat warmers, maybe??

I imagine he is used Rigid Ignite Flush Mount pods.....that's about the only size of Rigid LED light that will fit in there. I attached a pic of what one looks like.

No prob! I checked over the drawing and it looked right (assuming you get typical automotive relays). But if you have questions, feel welcome to shoot me a PM message. A guy on here, Phil, with screenname "Pgamboa" is also VERY good with automotive wiring. Could shoot him a message too.

For the Bed pushbutton to control the bed lights.....I just used a latched pushbutton. Push on, push off. You can find illuminated ones, and also ones made in stainless steel. For the other switches....I put them in a blank area in my overhead console. I may have rushed it a bit.....but can you open the attached PDF? I mocked up a wiring diagram that you can follow. I also included pics where I could, showing devices you asked about. Lights Wiring.pdf

I would think the factory battery should handle that setup. If you tie your rock lights into the Dome Lights....you might consider wiring the power for Rock Lights through a Relay, and trigger the relay from the Dome Light wire at the BCM. (Adding too many watts/amps through the BCM computer may overload it. Relay would solve that). Re: the behind-the-grill light bar, this is possible and has been done many times. But a Light Bar will likely interfere with any Active Grill Shutters that may be present. There are some YouTube videos that show how to modify your shutters to fit the light bar. In my Bed Lights.....I tied +12V power to the constant power at my trailer wiring plug. Wired a bed light pushbutton switch in series to that +12V power....and drilled a hole in the side of my Bed sheetmetal to mount the switch. For your backup light pods....did you want them to come on automatically when you are in Reverse? Or would you control manually from a separate switch? If you're buying an LTZ, I believe this means you already have the Upfitter switch panel, below the radio. Correct? Overall, your setup is similar to mine. I'll try to find the wiring diagrams I drew for my system, and paste them in this thread...

Chris--did you ever get this worked out?

Not certain if this is THE common cause of 5.3L ticking, but check your spark plug boots. The 'ticking' noise may be spark arcing inside of a loose boot. I've heard people mention this, and there's a few Youtube videos discussing it as well.

That's....interesting. I can see how you'd pop a fuse if, say, you connected the 2x wires to pins' 1 & 2. That'd be a short circuit. But deep frying a switch based on what's discussed above surprises me. I'm stumped at that. Hopefully someone else reads the above discussion and maybe answers with some insight? In the meantime I'll think about it and see if I missed something. Sorry for the continued difficulties.

I would have thought the button would illuminate when you connect wires as shown, and pushed the button. Should not matter if you wired PIN 1 into the horn. First: if you have a Volt Meter....connect probes to the old USB port wires and make sure you have 12 Volts there to begin with. It might only switch on when the truck's ignition is on. I don't recall if it is constantly powered, or switched with the ignition key. From the diagram above it looks like the LED only comes on when there's power across PIN 1 and PIN 3 (+12V at PIN 1. -12V at PIN 3). You could try to test it by moving Red Wire to PIN 1, and Black Wire to PIN 3. See what happens...?

Can you open the attached PDF ? I was mocking up a wiring diagram for someone else....so I just modified it for your scheme. I made some assumptions about the solenoid wiring, but the wiring to the pushbutton should work. Basic answer is Yes, I believe you could use the existing USB wiring to power the coil on the horn solenoid. TRAIN HORN PAGE.pdf

I bought my 2018 used, and it came with an Extang Solidfold. I used Backrack's p/n 50120 as a base for the headache rack. No issues. From the OUTSIDE, I'd think it would work with the OEM tonneau, since it covers the bed rails. Biggest question is: How does the OEM tonneau attach to the bed? I assume there's a pair of clamps somewhere up towards the cab. It is unlikely, but possible, that the stock mounting hardware for the cover could interfere with the Backrack brackets.