TheStug

Before even seeing your response, after a couple days of internet research, that is exactly the same part I came up with. I was constantly worried I would get the wrong type of diode... I ordered 20 of that and cost me about $16 with shipping. Hopefully this helps someone else in the future with the exact same questions. Now to figure out how to wire everything up so the diode is easily replaced in case it is ever damaged Thanks!

2012 Silverado, 4x4. I'm trying to add a circuit by using relay and the Middle Bus Electrical Connector (Driver footwell). Using Pin 7 (Crank/Run) as signal feed to the relay and pin 1 as ground. Stud 2 on the underhood fuse box for Battery feed. According to the GM Upfitter, they recommend adding 12112422 diode to the relay to prevent voltage spikes to the ECU when the switch opens (interrupts the circuit). I've got random relays from junkyards from Toyotas, Fords, chevys, etc. Do any of these have diodes built in so I don't have to spend like 10 bucks getting a diode? (or a 100 pack... ridiculous) It'd probably be easier to buy a relay with it built in if they exist. I see some people tap into fuse #43 but I'm sure GM would frown upon that and seems it could cause some gremlins so I'm not going to tap into the underhood fuse block. I'm wanting to use it to power a wideband O2 sensor (HPTuners). In Cab switched power

I pulled out the dash slightly (i didn't disconnect any cables so i could only go out so far) but I could not see anything. I did find one extra unused plug neatly tucked near the upper hvac tube delivering air to the very left side of the dash but it's not the correct shape for the receptacle. I'm thinking GM just made a standard wiring harness and whatever option I didn't get on the truck, the plug is left dangling. I am leaning toward it being a HVAC thing or an additional steering wheel control feature. Anyone with heavily optioned trucks, if you wouldn't mind looking under in the area of the steering column and see if you can find this plug? I'll see if i can find a ltz or something to look at. Peace of mind and all that. I'm gonna go ahead and proceed with putting things together and turn it on as soon as i can. Fingers crossed

Anyone able to provide document resources? Exploded views etc? Forward view Pictures of the plugs themselves (to see the tab shape would help quickly identify it) with pin out #s and what the function of the plug is would also be excellent. I can't seem to find anything useful. the GM upfitter had pictures of some plugs, but nothing related to this. I am also dealing with trying to replace the back half of the parking brake cables (both), but so far cannot even find parts diagrams. So basically, my big challenge right now is finding some freaking diagrams. I don't remember it being so hard to find diagrams. I really have only owned 90s stuff to this point.

I'm putting my truck back together (new cab), and I've got almost everything except for this one plug and for the life of me I cannot figure out where it goes. Attaching pictures. It's not the light sensor which I show in the first picture, already plugged.... I'm stumped right now. Not sure if it is plugged up top or down low (I think I've eliminated the steering column because I don't see any extra receptacles). Already have 2 plugs ready to go for A Pillar tweeters so that's not it either. I've looked under the dash and at the top part of the dash multiple times and can't find anything. I'm really trying to avoid having to pull out the dash a second time Color of wires. I'm off to look for wiring diagrams but I usually don't have much luck finding what I'm looking for. A - Yellow/Blk stripe B - Brown/White Stripe C - Green/Blk stripe D - Green/White Stripe E - F - Solid Tan or light brown G - Solid Dark Green H -

Does anyone know of a good part number to vehicle cross reference site? I just found that 12598832 (4.8 non DOD valley cover) has been discontinued. It wasn't (i think) before this whole coronavirus crap hit, but it was out of stock at GMPARTSGIANT at the time that I tried to order it. This parts unavailability and coronavirus backlog really pushed back the order of some parts. I'd like to just input a part number and have it return a list of vehicles and engines that came with that part from the factory. I'm planning on getting this part from a junkyard, hence why I need to know. It would be a good tool for future junkyard searches anyhow. Thanks

Ohhhhhhh….. I actually read that article, but I found the flow data lacking. I see now that I didn't see the "show all" link or tab to expand to get to the flow table.... THAT HELPS A LOT! If I had seen that, I would have come to exactly the same conclusion and gone with .501, which I will do now that Cam Motion confirmed the cancellation of the camshaft. Thanks swathdiver, and everyone, you've all been very helpful!

Any particular reason why you would pick .501 over .527? Just curious I pulled the trigger on the .527 lift cam a few days ago, but they're on a 2 week lead time so it may not be too late for me to change the order. It also turns out that some parts from GMpartsdirect are delayed "indefinitely" due to the coronavirus so I have no idea when I could get my parts. might have to shop elsewhere if I want it sooner.

Ok, nearly time to purchase all the goodies. I am looking at Cam Motion Stage 1 Truck cam. 200/204 114+3. Two options- .501 lift or .527 lift. My question here regarding this camshaft, will the .527 actually net much if any gains over .501 lift? I am just not sure if the additional lift will actually flow more (intake, head, exhaust restricted?) I wish there was a side by side dyno chart of those two with mainly stock engine. I'll look around for more cam options before finalizing purchase tomorrow probably. Main goal is to move up torque/hp across the entire RPM range, not peak power. Hopefully, it'll actually improve MPG while making me faster and better at towing.

Looks like Ed Wright is retired so that's out, but I looked around for some local tuners and got some good names. I should be alright there. Ah, you forget I am wanting to remove the AFM lifters as a weak link. BUT, I hadn't considered having someone work on the valve seat to help gain some torque/power across the full rev range. Might as well while it's off the block right? I will look into it further, thanks for the recommendation! So, I've been gathering part numbers and I'm a little stuck on this item. I've been learning a lot about this truck. I literally do not own any vehicles newer than 20 years old, so the change in PCV tech surprised me a bit. Valley cover - Is it really necessary to run the more expensive 12599296 (LS3 cover) $105 vs 12598832 $40? I've learned the 5.3 has PCV provisions in the valve covers, does not look like anything is coming out of the valley cover. I am not sure the LS3 cover is really necessary, so it seems a waste of money. Yes, I am planning on using the O-rings to block the oil flow from the DoD towers. rather than using NPT plugs or press in pieces. Please correct me if I am wrong! On a separate note, I've heard the PCV can cause some excessive oil consumption issues, and that they've "updated" to solve the problem, so I might look into that as well. Also, i'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with the Cam motion stage 1 cam. Just undecided right now on getting the drop in version or the hi lift version. Or I might just say F IT and get stage 2 since they're the same danged price!

Ok, I received a reply from Gwatney Performance. Here is the link supplied from one of their reps for a VVT compatible cam https://gwatneyperformance.com/product/gpi-lmg-vvt-cam-install-package-with-afm-dod-delete-for-2010-2014-silverado-5-3l/#gpi-vvt-camshaft-included The specs for LLT1 VVT cam is listed at 21x/22x .55x/.55x 113+8. Not sure why they mark x for the digit. Keeping it secret I guess. This seems to have higher duration than other "towing" cams and much more lift. Both probably being too much for me So even though this works for VVT, if those numbers are right, I think it may be too aggressive for me. But I just understood the basics of cam figures a couple days ago. It also doesn't help that there's not much documentation on this particular cam. I just found out a legendary Tuner lives close to me (less than 30 miles)… Ed Wright. I may end up giving him a call and ask if it's worth the hassle right now to retain VVT. I have read he did tune some VVT vehicles, so that is good to know. I would love to have him tune my truck once mods are finished. The direction I go in will depend a lot on how this conversation goes. I may end up just putting my truck back together for now (that's a chore in itself) and take my time to gather parts and perform the delete a little while later. It's very stressful at this point trying to get this done quickly. So I'm liable to make a mistake or a stupid decision I will regret later. Grille, fenders, hood are super easy to take off anyway... Apologies, This is turning more into a "what *$!#_%@ cam do I get?! GAAAHHHHH someone just tell me and take my money!!!!!!" than a bulletproofing thread... Items to upgrade or replace so far.... 1. Delete AFM system (remove cam and AFM lifters) 2. oil pickup o-ring 3. in tank fuel pump 4. rocker arm trunnion upgrade 5. hardened push rods (not 100% sure on that) 6. "towing" cam that won't affect longevity i.e., 7. Lifter Guides 8. Valve Seals 9. New LS7 lifters to replace AFM lifters (just 8 or all 16?) 10. LS2 valley cover 11. LS2 chain dampener 12. cam bolt (for vvt) 13. crank bolt 14. Head bolts 15. Gaskets (Heads, timing cover, valley cover, not sure what else). 16. ???

Yes, I did read that article by Super Chevy on the benefits of retaining VVT. This is part of the reason for my insistence on retaining VVT. I'm just very surprised that there simply isn't anything for Gen IV 5.3s... You would think these cam companies would realize some people want to retain VVT... Cam motion of course said they didn't have anything for this, but referred me to Gwatney performance. Didn't see anything on their website for VVT cams, but I sent them an email, we'll see what they say. Summit's site also lacks options, and also lots of cams with way too much duration... No reply from Tick Performance yet... I've been busy rebuilding a rock wall at my house, so I haven't had as much time as I'd like to surf the web for options and case histories.

This is pretty frustrating... I seriously find it hard to believe that NO ONE offers a mild/towing "truck" cam that retains VVT! I have sent Cam Motion and Crane Cams an email asking this question. Swathdiver, you seem pretty knowledgeable. If I were deleting VVT, I'm pretty sure I'd go Stage 1 from Cam Motion. I actually did some more searching in the middle of writing this reply and I may have found one place so far that MIGHT offer a cam that retains VVT. In this thread, post #22. https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/1741621-cam-motion-5-3-drop-cam-results-41rwhp-22rwtq-2.html However, I can't find it on their website! (sound of ripping hair out). Ugh, I'm done for tonight. I'm considering just ripping out VVT as well, sheesh....

Good idea on the fuel pump! Thanks Swath for bring to attention the difference in the grind of the cam... I would've bought that cam, with lower duration, being none the wiser... Curious, did you list the L9H cam specs because it's been used in the 5.3 with success? It looks very similar to the LQ9 (non VVT I'm guessing) which has been documented in 5.3s, with not much power gains, but not sure on preserving mileage which is up there in importance. Maintaining reliability with low ramp rates is also important to me. Importance on scale of 1-10, 10 being most important 1. Longevity of parts - 10 2. Maintaining or improving MPG - 8 3. Small bump in power - 4 So, I can do without much in power gains. If the L9H cam will satisfy these criteria, and nothing else is going to work for a $250 or less cam, then I guess that's what I'll do. However, I'll continue my search for choosing cam and look for documented instances of L9h cams in LC9s

Upon further research, a lot of the cams that were being marketed for cam swaps are for DOD and VVT delete... I didn't realize the BTR truck cam was for VVT delete. Oops, yeah like I said, i'm not really sure what the hell I'm doing, lol but I'm trying to learn. I really haven't found any common/proven VVT compatible cam grinds that would already have a well known tune for it (eliminating the pain of a custom tune with VVT). Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places on forums. At this point I am 95% committed to saying screw it, reduce the hassle and just get a GM 12689035 cam from the pre-AFM/DOD days. If I get this cam, I will just need the tuner to tune out the DOD, nothing else correct? I'm also hoping I can install the cam without needing to remove the heads. But I will be looking into swap guides and seeing what must be done and what parts. Anyway, BACK TO THE "BULLETPROOFING" THEME! 1. Another thing I read that I could upgrade or "bulletproof" would be the Rocker arm trunnions. Yeah, not sure if this is something I should worry about (not expecting sustained high RPM operation) but uhhh, the idea that the needle bearing cap could push off and dump a bunch of needles into the oiling system definitely would haunt my dreams... 2. Also, replace valve springs with Beehive springs? Less mass and lower seat pressure increases valvetrain life and increases efficiency ever so slightly?