TheStug

Before even seeing your response, after a couple days of internet research, that is exactly the same part I came up with. I was constantly worried I would get the wrong type of diode... I ordered 20 of that and cost me about $16 with shipping. Hopefully this helps someone else in the future with the exact same questions. Now to figure out how to wire everything up so the diode is easily replaced in case it is ever damaged Thanks!

2012 Silverado, 4x4. I'm trying to add a circuit by using relay and the Middle Bus Electrical Connector (Driver footwell). Using Pin 7 (Crank/Run) as signal feed to the relay and pin 1 as ground. Stud 2 on the underhood fuse box for Battery feed. According to the GM Upfitter, they recommend adding 12112422 diode to the relay to prevent voltage spikes to the ECU when the switch opens (interrupts the circuit). I've got random relays from junkyards from Toyotas, Fords, chevys, etc. Do any of these have diodes built in so I don't have to spend like 10 bucks getting a diode? (or a 100 pack... ridiculous) It'd probably be easier to buy a relay with it built in if they exist. I see some people tap into fuse #43 but I'm sure GM would frown upon that and seems it could cause some gremlins so I'm not going to tap into the underhood fuse block. I'm wanting to use it to power a wideband O2 sensor (HPTuners). In Cab switched power

I pulled out the dash slightly (i didn't disconnect any cables so i could only go out so far) but I could not see anything. I did find one extra unused plug neatly tucked near the upper hvac tube delivering air to the very left side of the dash but it's not the correct shape for the receptacle. I'm thinking GM just made a standard wiring harness and whatever option I didn't get on the truck, the plug is left dangling. I am leaning toward it being a HVAC thing or an additional steering wheel control feature. Anyone with heavily optioned trucks, if you wouldn't mind looking under in the area of the steering column and see if you can find this plug? I'll see if i can find a ltz or something to look at. Peace of mind and all that. I'm gonna go ahead and proceed with putting things together and turn it on as soon as i can. Fingers crossed

Anyone able to provide document resources? Exploded views etc? Forward view Pictures of the plugs themselves (to see the tab shape would help quickly identify it) with pin out #s and what the function of the plug is would also be excellent. I can't seem to find anything useful. the GM upfitter had pictures of some plugs, but nothing related to this. I am also dealing with trying to replace the back half of the parking brake cables (both), but so far cannot even find parts diagrams. So basically, my big challenge right now is finding some freaking diagrams. I don't remember it being so hard to find diagrams. I really have only owned 90s stuff to this point.

I'm putting my truck back together (new cab), and I've got almost everything except for this one plug and for the life of me I cannot figure out where it goes. Attaching pictures. It's not the light sensor which I show in the first picture, already plugged.... I'm stumped right now. Not sure if it is plugged up top or down low (I think I've eliminated the steering column because I don't see any extra receptacles). Already have 2 plugs ready to go for A Pillar tweeters so that's not it either. I've looked under the dash and at the top part of the dash multiple times and can't find anything. I'm really trying to avoid having to pull out the dash a second time Color of wires. I'm off to look for wiring diagrams but I usually don't have much luck finding what I'm looking for. A - Yellow/Blk stripe B - Brown/White Stripe C - Green/Blk stripe D - Green/White Stripe E - F - Solid Tan or light brown G - Solid Dark Green H -

Hello, I'm doing a new cab onto a 2012 extended cab 4x4 silverado. Getting pretty close to ready to put the cab on and I just noticed a couple things about the body mounts and hoped someone can answer them. First question. First picture is with 6 upper mounts on the floor. Notice the very front/drivers side (closest to the brake master cylinder) has this plate on top of it that none of the other 4 (front and middle mounts) have? Is this correct or did a plate fall off and I didn't notice? I would think i would see an impression of it if that were the case but just making sure. Second question. I think i might be missing one of the plastic "cones" you see lying next to one of the mounts in the second picture. Is there a PN for this or is it pretty much a package deal with the body mounts? Is this needed for ALL 6? I only have 5 in my possession right now (count them in the first picture) Third question. Referring to the 2nd image again, if you look at the top one (these two are for the very back of the cab), there's a plastic "centralizer" deep in there. but It's not there on the other one. I cannot pull this out so I don't see how the hell it could have simply fallen out. Maybe the "cone" lying there goes in the other one with nothing in it? Can't really find any decent exploded diagrams for this. Suppose i need to buy some junkyard mounts to get the missing parts, what years will work for a 2012? 2003 and up? or 2007 and up only? Thanks

Does anyone know of a good part number to vehicle cross reference site? I just found that 12598832 (4.8 non DOD valley cover) has been discontinued. It wasn't (i think) before this whole coronavirus crap hit, but it was out of stock at GMPARTSGIANT at the time that I tried to order it. This parts unavailability and coronavirus backlog really pushed back the order of some parts. I'd like to just input a part number and have it return a list of vehicles and engines that came with that part from the factory. I'm planning on getting this part from a junkyard, hence why I need to know. It would be a good tool for future junkyard searches anyhow. Thanks

Thanks for your inputs. It wasn't 100% clear on their site, notice they don't list any sort of quantity on the page. Just.... NUT.... Not exactly detailed haha. I would love for them to add a QTY descriptor in there. Package contains (ONE NUT) lol. Should have contacted them and verified, but yeah I was going off of what everyone was saying the qty was on the package, thus the expectation... Interesting about the dealer billing then selling as individuals. IMO, if you're going to sell as individual parts, then the part number MUST be different or the QTY must be explicitly stated as X number of parts. I dunno it might be a cumbersome practice for nuts and studs and the like and I might just be extra butthurt cuz I got burned in this situation. Example, a set of LS7 lifters is 12499225 (package of 16) while individual lifters are 17122490. I mean, in this case you cannot use 12499225 if you're going to sell as individual pieces. That's the other thing that kind of caught me off guard in this situation. I guess I will have to eat my mistake this time but I'm definitely gonna try shopping for a slightly better deal. Hopefully, this thread serves to keep anyone else from making the same dumb error.

http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/11589154.html anyone have experience with these guys? seems like a good deal, . Once again, they mention packs of 5 but are they actually selling as packs of 5.... even if they're selling individually, still a better deal than GMpartsgiant If they're legit, and GMpartsgiant won't budge, then I'll just get it from them.

Alright, so, I'm buying up parts for a DOD/VVT delete and cam swap. I was interested in changing exhaust manifold bolts to studs, so I looked around for part numbers. The part numbers would be 11589154 for the studs and 11609746 for the nuts. EVERYWHERE I read, the stud comes in packs of 5 and the nut comes in packs of 4. The QTY on the packaging would reinforce this. So, I ordered 3 QTY 11589154 (for 15 studs) and 3 QTY 11609746 (for 12 nuts). This is $5.06 for each order of stud and 1.18 for each order of nut for roughly a total of $18.72. What do I find when I open the box? 3 studs and 3 nuts... I'm like, WTF! Was expecting 15 studs and 12 nuts. The packaging (attached here) clearly says each respective part number should be qty 5 and qty 4. I submitted an RMA, but they so far are not budging, saying that 1 qty = individual and not the bags, which is complete BS IMO. So if I paid for 12 and 12 at the prices, that'd be close to $75 for the GM studs. Seems a bit high, but that might be standard. I dunno, I don't have anything to work off of pricewise. Hope someone can chime in on what it should be, one way or the other. IMO, if the packaging says 5, then that's what it should be. They shouldn't pull studs and nuts out of the bag, etc...

Ohhhhhhh….. I actually read that article, but I found the flow data lacking. I see now that I didn't see the "show all" link or tab to expand to get to the flow table.... THAT HELPS A LOT! If I had seen that, I would have come to exactly the same conclusion and gone with .501, which I will do now that Cam Motion confirmed the cancellation of the camshaft. Thanks swathdiver, and everyone, you've all been very helpful!

Any particular reason why you would pick .501 over .527? Just curious I pulled the trigger on the .527 lift cam a few days ago, but they're on a 2 week lead time so it may not be too late for me to change the order. It also turns out that some parts from GMpartsdirect are delayed "indefinitely" due to the coronavirus so I have no idea when I could get my parts. might have to shop elsewhere if I want it sooner.

Ok, nearly time to purchase all the goodies. I am looking at Cam Motion Stage 1 Truck cam. 200/204 114+3. Two options- .501 lift or .527 lift. My question here regarding this camshaft, will the .527 actually net much if any gains over .501 lift? I am just not sure if the additional lift will actually flow more (intake, head, exhaust restricted?) I wish there was a side by side dyno chart of those two with mainly stock engine. I'll look around for more cam options before finalizing purchase tomorrow probably. Main goal is to move up torque/hp across the entire RPM range, not peak power. Hopefully, it'll actually improve MPG while making me faster and better at towing.

Looks like Ed Wright is retired so that's out, but I looked around for some local tuners and got some good names. I should be alright there. Ah, you forget I am wanting to remove the AFM lifters as a weak link. BUT, I hadn't considered having someone work on the valve seat to help gain some torque/power across the full rev range. Might as well while it's off the block right? I will look into it further, thanks for the recommendation! So, I've been gathering part numbers and I'm a little stuck on this item. I've been learning a lot about this truck. I literally do not own any vehicles newer than 20 years old, so the change in PCV tech surprised me a bit. Valley cover - Is it really necessary to run the more expensive 12599296 (LS3 cover) $105 vs 12598832 $40? I've learned the 5.3 has PCV provisions in the valve covers, does not look like anything is coming out of the valley cover. I am not sure the LS3 cover is really necessary, so it seems a waste of money. Yes, I am planning on using the O-rings to block the oil flow from the DoD towers. rather than using NPT plugs or press in pieces. Please correct me if I am wrong! On a separate note, I've heard the PCV can cause some excessive oil consumption issues, and that they've "updated" to solve the problem, so I might look into that as well. Also, i'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with the Cam motion stage 1 cam. Just undecided right now on getting the drop in version or the hi lift version. Or I might just say F IT and get stage 2 since they're the same danged price!

Ok, I received a reply from Gwatney Performance. Here is the link supplied from one of their reps for a VVT compatible cam https://gwatneyperformance.com/product/gpi-lmg-vvt-cam-install-package-with-afm-dod-delete-for-2010-2014-silverado-5-3l/#gpi-vvt-camshaft-included The specs for LLT1 VVT cam is listed at 21x/22x .55x/.55x 113+8. Not sure why they mark x for the digit. Keeping it secret I guess. This seems to have higher duration than other "towing" cams and much more lift. Both probably being too much for me So even though this works for VVT, if those numbers are right, I think it may be too aggressive for me. But I just understood the basics of cam figures a couple days ago. It also doesn't help that there's not much documentation on this particular cam. I just found out a legendary Tuner lives close to me (less than 30 miles)… Ed Wright. I may end up giving him a call and ask if it's worth the hassle right now to retain VVT. I have read he did tune some VVT vehicles, so that is good to know. I would love to have him tune my truck once mods are finished. The direction I go in will depend a lot on how this conversation goes. I may end up just putting my truck back together for now (that's a chore in itself) and take my time to gather parts and perform the delete a little while later. It's very stressful at this point trying to get this done quickly. So I'm liable to make a mistake or a stupid decision I will regret later. Grille, fenders, hood are super easy to take off anyway... Apologies, This is turning more into a "what *$!#_%@ cam do I get?! GAAAHHHHH someone just tell me and take my money!!!!!!" than a bulletproofing thread... Items to upgrade or replace so far.... 1. Delete AFM system (remove cam and AFM lifters) 2. oil pickup o-ring 3. in tank fuel pump 4. rocker arm trunnion upgrade 5. hardened push rods (not 100% sure on that) 6. "towing" cam that won't affect longevity i.e., 7. Lifter Guides 8. Valve Seals 9. New LS7 lifters to replace AFM lifters (just 8 or all 16?) 10. LS2 valley cover 11. LS2 chain dampener 12. cam bolt (for vvt) 13. crank bolt 14. Head bolts 15. Gaskets (Heads, timing cover, valley cover, not sure what else). 16. ???