WhineyTTwins

Aftermarket wheels: 17x8.5 (0 offset) with 35x12.50R. No spacers. Only rub at nearly full lock in reverse.

Glad to see people using and abusing all the info here. Unfortunately, audio is one of those topics that information should be taken with a grain of salt. What I have learned is that everyone's taste is subjective, their knowledge varies, experience affects opinion, expectations are different, and not everyone is as open minded as they appear. Always 'trust but verify' an opinion that is given to you and then make your own judgement call. There are many people (especially audio forums) that will given you a recommendation which may be solely based on something they read somewhere on the internet. While it may turn out to be true, you need to be sure of that before you commit. For those of you that are new to this, try not to be overwhelmed by the little stuff. Car audio guys can be super OCD regarding wires, installation, and imaging. That's fine, to each their own, but it throws so many of the invested folks off because you start this project thinking you'd only spend X and should get it installed pretty quick. Next think you know you're trying to figure out what wires are going to have the least amount of interference or which screw is the best one to use for X. Do yourself a favor and try not to get caught up in that. You will rabbit hole really quick and it really isn't worth it. As long as you don't go super cheap and you did your own research on the stuff, the little stuff shouldn't make you bash your head in because the stuff that most audio guys fuss about is either nonexistent (no real proof) or it's for someone with a much higher expectation than the average user. You don't need $5000k to have a great sounding system but you also need to adjust your expectation to fit your budget. The one thing I have experienced in all of this is being able to see how big of an impact a good tuner can impact a system. Sage at Sounds Good Stereo is one of those people with "the ear" and he can make a budget system sound absolutely phenomenal with just a DSP. A good DSP and the right person to tune it (the right tuner is the really key component here) will allow you to extract so much more from a system without. At the end of the day, YOU need to be happy with your system. Sadly, I feel like I am constantly messing with it on a monthly basis because it "sounds off" and I really just think it's aging + losing it. Just wanted to chime in and leave some information since I haven't been on here in a while. I left some recommendations revolving around DSPs as I had gotten some questions about them and I really think they aren't given enough credit because of their steep prices. A DSP can not only last you a very long time but it adds a ton of flexibility that can also help make the process of changing/upgrading speakers, changing/upgrading amps, or changing vehicles much easier. There are reasonably priced DSP options that many people have lots of success with so don't let the price of the higher end DSPs scare you off completely. Also throwing in some pictures of my back wall since I saw some posts asking about how everything got laid out. DSP Tuner Recommendations Sage @ Sounds Good Stereo (Nashville, TN) Sage has worked on mine and I have also listened to their SQ competition car. All ears so you have to go to him Nick @ Apicella Auto Sound (Stony Point, NY) Highly respected in the car audio world and plenty of people/videos/posts to back him up Can do remote tunes to get you setup. Taking it to him would yield better results but should be more than enough for most. Common DSP options are: Helix DSP Mini (6 channel) DSP.2 or DSP.3 (8 channel) Pro Mk2 (10 channel) Mosconi DSP 4to6 (6 channel) 6to8 Pro or 6to8 Aerospace (8 channel) JL TwK-88 (8 channel) miniDSP C-DSP 6x8 (8 channel) C-DSP 8x12 v2 (12 channel)

I'll chime in since I probably have the most miles on it. I put the kit on in April/2019 with about 300 miles on the truck and I have almost 10k miles on it now. Haven't had a single issue with the kit. No rusting or failing bushings/ball joint. The kit is a really soft ride because you're utilizing factory shocks and it also causes a loss of traction over really bumpy stuff, but that is on the factory shocks. Overall, I would highly recommend the kit. The only other thing is that I am dying to change the stock shocks. The rear shocks are definitely on their way out because you can feel it, but the front left has now started making a noise too and the truck has begun to give off that floating feeling (so to speak). The truck hasn't seen any abuse as I moved to another state and have been focused on work so it's just another Silverado with hit or miss shocks. Been waiting on Bilstein since I put the kit on but nothing, and there really isn't too many options. Just going to get the stock ones replaced under warranty next time I need an oil change. Hope this helps

Facts. My chime is totally normal and I am pushing 2500 watts across the system.

I hear ya, man. I do the same thing. Have you looked at MiniDSP's C-DSP? That's within your price range and gives you much more control than the audiocontrol will. I went with an audiocontrol at first and ended up upgrading to a real DSP and it was the best upgrade I've made, in all honesty.

Welcome to the black hole. It will never stop but the one thing you have to realize is that you're working with an environment that is less than ideal and everyone's vehicle and design/layout will yield different results. Also, everyone has different taste and preferences when it comes to sound so get to where you're happy while understanding that it won't be perfect.

Thanks for confirming!

I cannot say that for certain because previous model required brackets. If you want to fit new door speakers in the front, you should contact Metra and confirm for the 6x9 but you will need the following: - 6x9 = Metra 82-3004 - 6 1/2 = Metra 82-3005 They are very good at confirming fitment and responding in a timely manner. I know for certain that the 6 1/2 is bracket is the correct part but just confirm the 6x9. Don't rely solely on information you read online, just reach out to companies that manufacturer products for our trucks. Best way to make sure you don't get burned. Hope this helps

If you back through this discussion then you will pictures and measurements that I posted. You can fit 6.5"s in the doors with the correct speaker brackets and as for the dash, it is identical to previous years so keep in mind that you may need to trim depending on the speaker you decide. I flush mounted my tweeters in the sails and have been very happy with my setup

Really don't feel like it should be a problem. Many folks here tap their signal wires off the bose and have been able to update. Just my 2 cents but I really don't think that would cause a failed update. How do you know you are getting codes, check engine light? Unplugging the battery for a bit and letting everything reset may clear and allow you to force the update. From a technical perspective, I can't imagine an amplifier stating "no load" would cause that. Worst case scenario, throw stock speakers back in and plug them in but I would try another dealership before I went through that hassle.

Pm'ed lol got me interested

How the hell did you get that mounted? I have been trying to change out my subs but have gotten a lot of pushback due to mounting depths. 6" appears to be what fabricators are calling max mounting depth before needing a seat lift and the W7's are at 8" of mounting depth plus almost another inch for excursion. Did you end up having to do a seat lift? Need details!

Old AP drivers test fitting. I will have my fabricator make a bracket to secure it and that's all. Audiofrog gb25s should drop in though

Finally got around to getting some measurements. So the measurements for the dash speakers and opening are as follows: Hole mounting distance = 3.5 inches Dash opening = 2 5/8 inches I was able to fit my massive audible physics drivers in there after some trimming. Way easier to trim than the previous years and was able to get it done with just a razor. Just opened up the diameter a bit and opened a slot for the speaker terminals.

Dam, I am glad I am not the only one. Mine never had made any noise and then it randomly started one day and it drives me nuts. It sounds like something landing on the roof. I know for a fact that it is coming from the rear but I can't pinpoint. I thinking it could be coming from that rear spoiler these new trucks have but you have to pull down the entire headliner just to get to the damn thing. I really want to sound deaden the roof but I absolutely hate pulling down the headliner and wanted to avoid it for as long as I could. Just really curious as to what it could be.