AleksanderSuave

What scan tool are you all using to successfully deactivate the brake booster? tried the launch creader elite 2.0 and it failed there with explanation.

I ended up going with audiofrog for mine, GS690 for the doors (6x9) and GS25 widebands for the dash. Just in max volume alone, it is a significant increase. Quality is definitely impressive too. Listed to some avenged sevenfold and heard parts of the songs that I didnt even hear before when listening in the car. For those of us who have non-bose (Im guessing here), the dash speaker wires differ from whats mentioned on page one. They follow the same wiring as the front door speakers, so solid blue is positive, blue/brown is negative, passenger side is solid yellow for positive, and yellow/black for negative. I cut the wiring plug out of the OEM speaker, (leaving the cap soldered in), and soldered on some wires, with quick detach connectors to plug into the tabs on the speakers.

I agree with you. I feel like these types of "factory supported solutions" are usually more about whoever paid the OEM for the endorsement and exclusivity, as opposed to best bang for your buck. Going back to our main discussion, interestingly enough... Crutchfield says it doesnt fit, but Kenwood says it will, its a kit built specifically for GM vehicles and offers a properly sized dash mid and the 6x9 door speaker: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-iDkZMJLPicO/p_113XP6902C/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XP6902C.html

It is listed under the "NEW 2022" silverado category on the website as well. https://www.shopchevyparts.com/electronics/2022-silverado-1500-audio-upgrade-kicker-subwoofer-system-crew-cab-extended-cab-all-audio/19417164-p-92320212.html this website specifically has been pretty good about parts fitment when I researched other items. However..my build sheet shows "UQF" for the radio code, which isnt on their list. Calling the dealership can be hit or miss. I got the wrong part number twice for my front bowties last month from the dealership that sold me my truck.

what made you choose those over something like the CDT Unity 8.0's? They seem very popular in this specific application (GM, toyota, subaru..with odd sized corner mids instead of tweeters)

It helps seeing whats underneath there in terms of working space. I was half considering either A: Replacing the factory dash speaker with the kicker option, and then trying to sneak a smaller tweeter nearby it under the grill/mesh from the dash. or B: still the 2 speaker replacement from above but drilling into the A pillar bottom to mount the tweeter. still on the fence about doing coax vs. components at this point..Not too worried about wiring anymore, just trying to figure out best mounting options and higher volume and quality increase without having to install an amp. Not sure if Im overthinking it at this point.

It took me about 4-5 re-readings of everything written in here to realize that you installed something like these in the dash speaker spots: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647KSC27/Kicker-47KSC2704.html Did your experience agree with mafd2's in that changing the front door speaker is mostly low in overall bang for your buck performance increase?

This seems like an easy solution, I found the tweeters on ebay for $110 from woofers ETC. The rears you mentioned (club 622) Im only seeing a 6.5" not 6 - 3/4". Sounds like some adapters for the tweeters to fit in the dash, and adapters for the rears (plus wiring adapters), and I could be all in for $250 total.

would the same ideas apply to non-bose truck? Also..I realized my mistake in this now. The in-dash speakers are not true tweeters, from what I see everywhere else they're 2" mids. This clarifies why a few videos Ive watched all discuss drilling into the grab handle trim to mount a "tweeter".

When it comes to wiring those up, did you install a cross-over somewhere in between the replacement door speaker and the new tweeter? If so, how did you run the cabling from it to the tweeter? Crutchfield suggested replacing them with separate tweeters that have built in crossovers (as opposed to a component set)..which I've never done before. Ive always run components with wiring from the speaker to the tweeter, but that was typically with vehicles where the tweeter was in a door sail or near the mirror, not entirely separate in the dash.

I feel like Im talking to an old friend discussing the same stuff Im thinking about here. I have a 2006 Porsche as my track and fun car. It took some work to update (modernize) Bose in it, I primarily wanted apple car play, and even with the dumbing down filters, it sounds amazing. I have the Duha box under my back seat too, and was thinking about the Kicker upgrade for the truck, and how to incorporate it into that, without losing tool/storage space.

Yeah Im on the fence between the two myself right now. I dont have the BOSE setup in my truck (LT Trim), but having worked on mutiple vehicles with BOSE in the past, it seems like speaker replacements always involved "dumbing down" the system to get it to work with aftermarket speakers or radio. Oddly enough now, it looks like the JL Audio Kit is cheaper than the Kicker kit is now, if you're doing door speakers in 6x9, tweeters, and rear door speakers. I was also lead to the conclusion that the JL Audio would sound better with an aftermarket amp, but in most instances, the Kicker setup would sound better (and louder) if keeping stock components. I appreciate you mentioning that the wire adapters for the 2021 would work in the 22. They are an extra $10 per pair if bought solo, and I always prefer an install that is a no-cut easily reversible option whenever possible.

what made you choose Kicker as opposed to other choices like JL audio?

Those of you who this did not work for, when you park are you in vicinity of wifi that the truck can use? My truck is in the driveway, and my home wifi reaches and is saved in the vehicle's settings. Wonder if that helped.

The same was said when Ford first switched to ecoboost, now the take rate on them over the 5.0 V8 is something like every 3 out of 4 sold.