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I have a '19 AT4 with the 6.2. Just over 100k miles, towing through the mountains in the summer, DD grocery getting / kid limo in the winter. No issues so far. Oil changes according to DIC, did the transmission, front diff and rear diff fluids about 20k ago.

My 2019 burns just under 2Q between changes in the summer (towing), and less in the winter. Sitting at 100k mi. It runs smooth though..

It's usually ok, although going from my 26 model to the 28 model might have well been doubling up in terms of crosswind difference. It's a massive change adding those 3-4 ft. Also, at 10% tongue weight, it was almost untowable in windy situations, I would have to slow down to 35 or so, pushing it back up to almost 15% resolved it. I'm not a speed demon though, usually keep around 65-70.

Sure thing. Truck is a 2019 1500 AT4. Payload capacity of 1522 (on sticker), tow rating of 9400 (because it's an AT4). On the scales with my family and loaded for camping we come in at 3400lbs on the front axle, and 2900lbs on the rear axle. The trailer is a 28ft model, dual slide. 32ft tip to tip. I run a blueox sway pro hitch with 1000lb spring bars. GVWR is 7500, and UVW is supposedly around 6500 (I think..). We've made some extensive renovations to it, so I don't think the published numbers are accurate anymore. All hooked up our weights come in as the following with the WDH engaged: 3250 front axle 3600 rear axle 6800 trailer axles This is probably the largest I would go. We tow across the rocky mountains on a regular basis, we get about 11mpg averaged out over the summer (10k miles-ish). I keep the bed empty, the trailer definitely didn't have enough tongue weight on it originally, and I have to leave a couple flats of water under the front bed to keep it where I'm happy with it.

I've towed a similar size / weight model for the last 4.5 years with this truck. Get a good WDH and you should be fine. Load it up, weigh it, and adjust accordingly. Mine comes in around 970lb on the hitch, and I mainly leave the bed empty.

Same issue here on my 2019 AT4. Dealer did a diagnose on it and said it was a faulty sensor. Part is cheap ($150~) up here, but labor was a killer, I think they quoted 3 hours ($500+). The sensors don't come painted, so they need to hit the paint shop, and the entire bumper, grille, and most of the front needs to be disassembled to get to it. I'm not sure about yours, but my faulty sensor seems to wiggle by a small amount, compared to the others that are a tight fit. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. The dealer just chalked it up to "maybe a piece of gravel hit it" etc etc...

well deserved "i told you so". $200 every 5 years, not worth the hassle of doing it yourself. I just thought I'd give it a go since I had extra fluid from doing my canyon. Guess things changed quite a bit from 2017 to 2019..

So I did a gravity bleed.. and our reservoirs are tiny! I may have let it get too low, and now I have no brakes at all. The DIC is throwing all sorts of ESC, Brake, Trailer Brake, and ABS errors, and there is no stopping power. Anything I should attempt before towing it to the dealer?

Does that mean without the scantool on the T1's to turn off the booster, it just won't bleed, bleed incompletely, or result in other issues (CEL / malfunctions)?

Hi, I have a 2019 AT4 which is at the 5 year mark for brake fluid. I haven't seen any posts on bleeding the brakes, just on pad replacements. I wanted to confirm that no particular service mode is required for just bleeding, and it follows the same basic procedures as older models: add fluid, and pump out starting from RR, RL, FR, FL? Thanks

Similar issue here, went from that to just the entire system turning off due to that one sensor throwing an error. I found that if its cold, it works, but if it's warm, it errors out. Took it to the dealer and paid the diagnostic fee, they said that one sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced, no further detail. Part itself isn't too bad, but the labor to get to it is expensive. Some good youtube videos about replacing the sensor, it looks like you have to remove the entire grill / bumper assemply.

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Mine has a similar issue, I took it to the dealership and paid the diagnostic fee. They said it was just one of the front sensors, but if one goes out, the system turns all of them off. I've noticed it's temperature dependent, when it's less than 65-70 degrees, it works, if the sun warms it up, or if it's hot out, it stops working. Replacement sensor + labor is almost 600 dollars...

Any chance you have an RTA graph for the original Bose setup? Curious to how that looked before your mods.