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Showing results for tags 'Rebuild'.
Found 11 results
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Were working on getting an 86 k10 back on the road. The trans slips between gears and doesn't have a working OD. Does this sound like a master rebuild kit fix, or should we be looking for another trans and just swap it in. I'm sure we could work through rebuilding it, but this would be my first time trying to fix one. Anyway, just wondering what to expect. Things like, how do you know if the pump is good, torque converter, any hard parts that could be broke that would save me the cost of the rebuild kit in case I just have to replace the trans anyway...etc... Thanks! -
Just recently bought a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4. I am the third owner. Shortly after buying the truck the transmission grenade’d itself. I’m at 97k miles so still under the 100k mike power train warranty, however I was 21 days outside of the 5 year part of the warranty. I reached out to GM after returning from deployment to try and get some help and hope that they would honor all or maybe partial warranty. Needless to say no help from GM! Shopped around for shops to rebuild and ended just buying a remand one for 2.7k. So here are my questions: 1. Flush the current cooler or buy an upgraded one? 2. If I should buy an upgraded one then how big? Also should I bypass the current one in the radiator to have a separate cooling system? 3. I’ve heard of people deleting the transmission oil thermometer to achieve a cooler temp. So say do this because heat is the enemy, others say the trans is built to operate at a certain temp. 3.What temperature is the best operating temperature? 4. Should I have the new transmission re flashed or swap the one from my grenade’d one into the remand one? 5. What’s the best way to flush the current cooler if I don’t change it? I’m afraid if I just try to flush it then it won’t get it clean enough and I’ll mess up the new transmission! That’s all I can think of right now! Thank you in advance for your time and expertise!
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I recently rebuilt the 4l60e on my 2000 S10 4.3L 2WD. It was slipping out of 4th while in D so I drove it for a week in 3. Eventually, 3rd gear was slipping, especially when warmed up, so i decided to rebuild. I got a vacuum tested reman valve body from Shift Rite Transmission shop with the Sonnax TCC Isolator Sleeve installed. It included all new solenoids. I also got a reman pump (old pump was scored up inside) from same shop with upgraded Sonnax boost valve. I installed pinless accumulators and new Transgo seperator plate with new gaskets and new checkballs. I upgraded to Sonnax smart shell and installed Sonnax Heavy Duty 3-4 backing plate with appropriate steels and frictions. All new steels and all new HE frictions - All clearances (including input shaft endplay) within spec checked 3+ times. New Borg Warner Dual Input Sprag. New reverse input drum. New 2-4 band. New 3rd accumulator checkball capsule tested for leaks. Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve installed over it. Standard Toledo rebuild kit for seals and gaskets, etc.. Also, new VSS and new Neutral Safety Switch. All new bushings. 400 grit emery cloth sanded journals on everything. Cleaned MAF sensor with cleaner. I diagnosed a leaking input drum housing at the shaft and got a new one with new blue rubber pistons. Old 3-4 clutch pack was in decent shape from before but still replaced new. Air-tested new input drum cold and it did not leak where the shaft and housing meet. The plate stiffener was loose during disassembly so after rebuild delayed thud into Reverse was fixed. When I bought the truck about 500 miles before the 3-4 went out the CLUSTR fuse was blown causing limp mode. After replacing the fuse truck drove fine until 3-4 problem. This leads me to believe that there is maybe some electrical issue, but no code was thrown until the slipping got terrible. It was solenoid A electrical (P0748), which I replaced and code disappeared. It came on again a few drives later and then disappeared the drive after that no changes on my part. During test drive after rebuild it was SO damn nice and smooth at first I couldn't believe it. THEN after it warmed up all of the 3-4 slipping returned and I had to drive it home in 2nd. I disconnected the MAF sensor and drove it until warm to rule that out. No luck there. Slightly firmer shifts, but did not help slipping. I'm thinking now that possible causes could be: New solenoids - one may be bad, The input drum doesn't leak when cold, but does when hot, The 3rd accumulator check ball is bad when hot (I wasn't too sure of my vacuum test being accurate, which said it didn't leak, so I tested with 50/50 solvent and ATF and it did not leak while cold), or there is a bad wire somewhere considering the original P0748 code that came on and off 2 times. ANY insight or ideas would are very appreciated. I've spent countless hours on this and is my 1st rebuild. -
I'm trying to update an old 51 pickup that hasn't run in years. What's the most affordable way to put a newer engine in it? I was thinking something like a small block, but I'm out of my depth. The end goal is a dessert runner, mild offroad capability.
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Okay, I’m brand new to the forum and wanted to jump right in. Basically, I am currently looking for a salvage title Silverado with front or rear end damage (rebuildable) so that I can have a short term rebuild project. I’m going through copart and can currently find 14-18 Silverados with said damage for around $8,000 to about $14,000. Essentially I want to know if anyone’s has rebuilt the front or rear end after a collision and what all it entails. GM apparently has detailed plans (for which I’ve yet to find) of a repair and replace method which makes it easier to repair post collision frames. http://www.repairerdrivennews.com/2015/03/24/gm-details-remove-and-replace-methods-for-chevrolet-silverado-collision-repair/ That’s the link I found describing the repair and replace method. Sorry if this has already been asked, I’m still learning to navigate the forum so don’t be too harsh! Any information would be greatly appreciated! -
I am currently in the process of rebuilding my 2003 ss silverado. It started with the brake lines and turned into way more. It's already lowered but I was wondering how low can I really make it without damaging the awd components. Don't have the money to experiment with different parts. It's currently lowered 3/4. Have tons on pictures I will add later.
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I have a 2007 Tahoe 5.3L LMG (AFM) 4x4 LTZ. Truck has 190k on it. The other day it developed a very rough idle and flashing CEL. Prior to this there was no indication of a problem. Scanner says misfire cylinder 1. I do all of my testing that I can do such as spark plugs, wires, verify injector signal with noid light etc. End up using compression tester to find 0 PSI on #1 and other cylinders at 110-120 PSI. During one of the compression test on #1 the gauge jumped to 60 PSI then next cycle dropped to 0 (unsure how to interpret that). Took truck to local shop and despite my efforts to inform them of the AFM lifter issues that could be causing this loss of compression they basically said that based on the 190k mileage i should only consider replacing with long block rather than repair the heads. They then quote $6600 for Jasper reman and install. So to my question... Are they right the I should do a reman long block or consider repairing heads? I know I have been lucky to get that kind of mileage without issue but just wondering what others would do. Truck is in great condition otherwise and I plan to keep for the foreseeable future. Thanks for your help.
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Okay so, first post as well as first time using the forum so I don't ask something properly please forgive me. I'm trying to rebuild the trans on my 02 sierra 1500 2wd and for some reason I didn't purchase the correct model year rebuild kit. Dumb I know lol, but I'm wondering if I can make it work anyway or whether to suck it up and just return it. I'm trying to get this done quickly, but if it's going to be an issue I'll just return it and get the right one. I'm not extremely familiar with the differences in model years beyond the removable bell housing and length differences. The kit I bought on accident was for a 93-96. I realize the odds that I can make this work are slim especially given the changes around 95 and 96, but I thought I'd ask anyway. Sorry if this has been asked before.
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Hello everyone, New to the forum. I got some mods im doing to my truck and since this is a forum i try to regularly keep up with, figured i would go ahead and join and ask some questions since i have found little in depth topics on this subject. So. Got a 2002 2500HD 6.0 crew cab, 2x4. Already have the engine and tranny both out. Heres what im doing. Comp cam mutha thumper cam, timing set, headers, air intake, throttle body spacer, new rings, surface the heads, maybe port n polish. Exhaust, and a programmer. Doing all the work myself. Was wondering if anyone else has done this similar combo? If so what brands/results? Should my stock converter be able to hold that cam. It says its best with a 2500+ stall. Whats the stall speed on these stock hd trannys? Should i go ahead and invest in a set of push rods/rockers/springs? Ive been told as long as i dont go with a HUGE cam the stock ones should be fine. The engine only has 130,000 on it, so the internals are in great shape. I do haul/tow with this truck. Farm equipment tractors bobcats etc. So i still want towing power. Any advice at all will be very much appreciated. I know my way around a SB chevy pretty good. But theres ALOT of ppl out here that know alot more. So anything helps. Thanks guys
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i have a 99 sierra 2500 and want to drop a 2013 sierra 2500 engine into it. my question is, how hard will it be to do this. i am mechanically inclined and know i can mechanically fit this engine in my 99 by modifying a few things, but i am concerned on the electrical. i know i will have to use the ecu and wiring harness off the 2013 but i definitely need advise before i get into this massive project. i have the complete totaled doner car so i can use whatever i need of that. i am really concerned with the electrical and how to connect it to my 99. will this be possible? easy as plug and play? thanks so much in advance. -
normaly i read other peoples stories and pick up a bit here and there but this time its important, and alot of you guys seem pretty knowledgable , my intake leaked like a steam pot and ive had to move the truck a few times and ran it till the tempature rose almost to high . had to jump start it a couple of times and now it seems like the timing is weird before starting it turns fast then slow then fast and so on until it starts , id like to just replace the motor , it has over 250000 miles but money is funny, so im gonna have to do it piece by piece,,,,, i need advice , tips , who makes the best rebuild kits , what upgrades can i do, any and all help would b hot ,,,, the familys work horse needs help . i thank you very much now give me your brains lol
